Guest mikeym Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Hey Guys, Buddy at Sherwin and Williams mixed up some paint for me... 100% acrylic finish - semi gloss... I cleaned and primered the fairing and prepared for paint. After application(s) I noticed this paint is easy to scrape off with fingernail... to my dismay the color matches perfectly... What can I put over the finished touch up spots to harden it rock hard? Acrylic lacquer or enamel? Unfortinately I don't know anything about paint... ~mikeym Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted October 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2010 i think the rolling stones said it best.. "TIIIIIMMMMMMMEEEEEEE is on my side...." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 i think the rolling stones said it best.. "TIIIIIMMMMMMMEEEEEEE is on my side...." Don't even bother with a lacquer? I know it hardens over time... but the paint on the lid of the can is 1 1/2 weeks old and i can put a print in it with my thumbnail... I'm thinking I should seal it with a clear of something ~mikeym Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted October 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2010 wow!!! :huh: you need to talk with some people at a body and paint shop.. i know there is a paint hardener.. just dont know what it is yet.. you may need to whip it all off and MIX the hardener into the paint.. i dont know.. :mellow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2010 stroking might help........... :laughing6-hehe: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 i think the rolling stones said it best.. "TIIIIIMMMMMMMEEEEEEE is on my side...." Don't even bother with a lacquer? I know it hardens over time... but the paint on the lid of the can is 1 1/2 weeks old and i can put a print in it with my thumbnail... I'm thinking I should seal it with a clear of something ~mikeym Check w/ the shop and see if you need a hardener - acrylic is water based and you don't want to find out the first time you wash the bike that your paint doesn't have hardener in it... Can't clearcoat over uncured paint either, so that won't help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 i think the rolling stones said it best.. "TIIIIIMMMMMMMEEEEEEE is on my side...." Don't even bother with a lacquer? I know it hardens over time... but the paint on the lid of the can is 1 1/2 weeks old and i can put a print in it with my thumbnail... I'm thinking I should seal it with a clear of something ~mikeym Check w/ the shop and see if you need a hardener - acrylic is water based and you don't want to find out the first time you wash the bike that your paint doesn't have hardener in it... Can't clearcoat over uncured paint either, so that won't help. Paint is just a soft paint, it is cured... its not automotive paint... its for exterior walls/windows, wood plastic metal, etc... I need to find a clear to put over it... trying to find out what I can brush on that will dry rock hard... ~mikeym Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2010 This may be the wrong paint to use in automotive applications? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 This may be the wrong paint to use in automotive applications? You are not helping. Sorry to be so terse but with the average age of this forum I estimate being over 40 I would think someone would have had some expert thoughts already... just a little frusterated thats all, I've spent the past 6 days painting very thin coats letting it dry overnight, scuffing up, painting, scuffing up, etc... This is touch up paint guys... the price was right - free and its a perfect match. Eventually I may have to get an automotive paint matched for this bike... should have spent the $40 bucks the first time... I'm eager to get the last days of riding in before the winter months and would like some thoughts from some people who know something about paint... unforutinately i'm not one of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monk Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 I hope this link will help....... http://painting.about.com/od/acrylicpainting/a/10tips_acrylics.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 This may be the wrong paint to use in automotive applications? You are not helping. Sorry to be so terse but with the average age of this forum I estimate being over 40 I would think someone would have had some expert thoughts already... just a little frusterated thats all, I've spent the past 6 days painting very thin coats letting it dry overnight, scuffing up, painting, scuffing up, etc... This is touch up paint guys... the price was right - free and its a perfect match. Eventually I may have to get an automotive paint matched for this bike... should have spent the $40 bucks the first time... I'm eager to get the last days of riding in before the winter months and would like some thoughts from some people who know something about paint... unforutinately i'm not one of them. :rolleyes: Well, I'm no expert... but if you use the right product for the job, you'll get the results you want! Sherwin Will does make automotive paint, so if you had said off the bat, "Hey, I put put house paint on my bike and something's not right", then we could have told you earlier that you got the wrong stuff. Then again, I can't recall ever seeing a pearlized house paint, so I'm curious to know how you got a perfect match with house paint?? If you're stuck on using this free paint, then paint a test piece and coat that with rattle can clear to see if that gets you the results you want. In the end though, you're always better off doing it right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 This may be the wrong paint to use in automotive applications? You are not helping. Sorry to be so terse but with the average age of this forum I estimate being over 40 I would think someone would have had some expert thoughts already... just a little frusterated thats all, I've spent the past 6 days painting very thin coats letting it dry overnight, scuffing up, painting, scuffing up, etc... This is touch up paint guys... the price was right - free and its a perfect match. Eventually I may have to get an automotive paint matched for this bike... should have spent the $40 bucks the first time... I'm eager to get the last days of riding in before the winter months and would like some thoughts from some people who know something about paint... unforutinately i'm not one of them. :rolleyes: Well, I'm no expert... but if you use the right product for the job, you'll get the results you want! Sherwin Will does make automotive paint, so if you had said off the bat, "Hey, I put put house paint on my bike and something's not right", then we could have told you earlier that you got the wrong stuff. Then again, I can't recall ever seeing a pearlized house paint, so I'm curious to know how you got a perfect match with house paint?? If you're stuck on using this free paint, then paint a test piece and coat that with rattle can clear to see if that gets you the results you want. In the end though, you're always better off doing it right the first time. Since I have about 5 coats on my fairing since post # 1, I'm pretty stuck on using it... I got a perfect match because they put my rear cowl under the computer and mixed in the appropriate colors... he didn't put much on the can in the way of information so who the hell knows whats actually in the can... I gather its an acrylic which is stated on the label. Since post # 1 this is a _ rigged job anyway... I wouldn't be posting this if I was wondering what paint I should use. I posted because I have the paint on my fairing and need a hardened clear coat for acrylic paint. Apparently no one puts a clear coat on acrylic... Rattle can isn't an option at this moment because the fairing has a few streaks that are being touched up from a lay-over unless I want blotches of clear overspray overtop of the rest of the good fairing + an hour of polishing compound and waxing which further inhibits the riding time... Thanks for the thoughts though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIFFER93 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 This may be the wrong paint to use in automotive applications? You are not helping. Sorry to be so terse but with the average age of this forum I estimate being over 40 I would think someone would have had some expert thoughts already... just a little frusterated thats all, I've spent the past 6 days painting very thin coats letting it dry overnight, scuffing up, painting, scuffing up, etc... This is touch up paint guys... the price was right - free and its a perfect match. Eventually I may have to get an automotive paint matched for this bike... should have spent the $40 bucks the first time... I'm eager to get the last days of riding in before the winter months and would like some thoughts from some people who know something about paint... unforutinately i'm not one of them. :rolleyes: Well, I'm no expert... but if you use the right product for the job, you'll get the results you want! Sherwin Will does make automotive paint, so if you had said off the bat, "Hey, I put put house paint on my bike and something's not right", then we could have told you earlier that you got the wrong stuff. Then again, I can't recall ever seeing a pearlized house paint, so I'm curious to know how you got a perfect match with house paint?? If you're stuck on using this free paint, then paint a test piece and coat that with rattle can clear to see if that gets you the results you want. In the end though, you're always better off doing it right the first time. Since I have about 5 coats on my fairing since post # 1, I'm pretty stuck on using it... I got a perfect match because they put my rear cowl under the computer and mixed in the appropriate colors... he didn't put much on the can in the way of information so who the hell knows whats actually in the can... I gather its an acrylic which is stated on the label. Since post # 1 this is a _ rigged job anyway... I wouldn't be posting this if I was wondering what paint I should use. I posted because I have the paint on my fairing and need a hardened clear coat for acrylic paint. Apparently no one puts a clear coat on acrylic... Rattle can isn't an option at this moment because the fairing has a few streaks that are being touched up from a lay-over unless I want blotches of clear overspray overtop of the rest of the good fairing + an hour of polishing compound and waxing which further inhibits the riding time... Thanks for the thoughts though... 22 years in the paint industry and I am almost at a loss for words.... 1. Don't expect this to last 2. If you expect to "clear coat" it then make sure you use an acrylic based product... MinWax waterbased urethane comes to mind. A petrolium based product will not bond to the acrylic and it will also cause your base coat to yellow until it starts to flake off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rivcyko Posted October 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2010 Think'n you're hosed. Seb. has the best suggestion,...rattle clear over it. PPG clear and hardener is tough as nails, but expensive. I'm thinking if you clear over it, it may lift your base, then look like a crinkle cut french fry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2010 This may be the wrong paint to use in automotive applications? You are not helping. Sorry to be so terse but with the average age of this forum I estimate being over 40 I would think someone would have had some expert thoughts already... just a little frusterated thats all, I've spent the past 6 days painting very thin coats letting it dry overnight, scuffing up, painting, scuffing up, etc... This is touch up paint guys... the price was right - free and its a perfect match. Eventually I may have to get an automotive paint matched for this bike... should have spent the $40 bucks the first time... I'm eager to get the last days of riding in before the winter months and would like some thoughts from some people who know something about paint... unforutinately i'm not one of them. All I'm saying is, don't waste any more time on heading in the wrong direction. I don't think that anything can be done to salvage this situation. It may be better (read faster and cheaper) to scrap this free house paint idea and start from scratch. The fact that your paint comes off easy may not be such a bad thing after all. Turning disadvantages into advantages :fing02: Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. We like pictures around here :biggrin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gmtech94 Posted October 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2010 I would go to the local NAPA store or Autozone and ask for their paint specialist ( the person who mixes and deals with paint products and ask them for help) .As the others have said try some clear paint from an acrylic based product to cover and activate the base coat fro protection . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRBulldawg Posted October 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 22, 2010 stroking might help........... :laughing6-hehe: I knew somebody was going to say that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Just an idea for when you stick on not removing the paint: cover it with a clear vinyl wrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Forgetting all about it and just riding it till winter comes to mind :rolleyes: Then fix it properly over the winter. If you decide that you'd like to do it properly, you can buy a touch up pen from Color-Rite, or have the part scanned by a body shop that sells PPG paint - PPG has a scan tool that works really well. Then you can use that formula to have the shop mix some touch-up. But, I know nothing about painting bikes. :laughing6-hehe: Nothing at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 This may be the wrong paint to use in automotive applications? You are not helping. Sorry to be so terse but with the average age of this forum I estimate being over 40 I would think someone would have had some expert thoughts already... just a little frusterated thats all, I've spent the past 6 days painting very thin coats letting it dry overnight, scuffing up, painting, scuffing up, etc... This is touch up paint guys... the price was right - free and its a perfect match. Eventually I may have to get an automotive paint matched for this bike... should have spent the $40 bucks the first time... I'm eager to get the last days of riding in before the winter months and would like some thoughts from some people who know something about paint... unforutinately i'm not one of them. :rolleyes: Well, I'm no expert... but if you use the right product for the job, you'll get the results you want! Sherwin Will does make automotive paint, so if you had said off the bat, "Hey, I put put house paint on my bike and something's not right", then we could have told you earlier that you got the wrong stuff. Then again, I can't recall ever seeing a pearlized house paint, so I'm curious to know how you got a perfect match with house paint?? If you're stuck on using this free paint, then paint a test piece and coat that with rattle can clear to see if that gets you the results you want. In the end though, you're always better off doing it right the first time. Since I have about 5 coats on my fairing since post # 1, I'm pretty stuck on using it... I got a perfect match because they put my rear cowl under the computer and mixed in the appropriate colors... he didn't put much on the can in the way of information so who the hell knows whats actually in the can... I gather its an acrylic which is stated on the label. Since post # 1 this is a _ rigged job anyway... I wouldn't be posting this if I was wondering what paint I should use. I posted because I have the paint on my fairing and need a hardened clear coat for acrylic paint. Apparently no one puts a clear coat on acrylic... Rattle can isn't an option at this moment because the fairing has a few streaks that are being touched up from a lay-over unless I want blotches of clear overspray overtop of the rest of the good fairing + an hour of polishing compound and waxing which further inhibits the riding time... Thanks for the thoughts though... 22 years in the paint industry and I am almost at a loss for words.... 1. Don't expect this to last 2. If you expect to "clear coat" it then make sure you use an acrylic based product... MinWax waterbased urethane comes to mind. A petrolium based product will not bond to the acrylic and it will also cause your base coat to yellow until it starts to flake off. Thank you. I will give that a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 I mean not to offend everyone but hearing that its done wrong 8 + times isn't doing anything for me... before this post was started I COULD have purchased the proper automotive paint, but I didn't... I do a lot of thinking outside the box... If I was going to do it right I would have stripped and sanded, plastic welded, prepped and painted with oil based automotive grade paint mixed by a local shop (Klines Auto Body) in Allentown... After I do that my job still wouldn't look like stock and probably worse than this half a$$ed attempt... If the only solution is to repaint it then I'm gonna send it to my buddy Bob at EmpireGp after I give it a go with this s**t.... Or Seb... ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dr.toto Posted October 23, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 23, 2010 This appears to be done but I have a question. You said the paint is an acrylic. That's half a description. If it's automotive style, is it acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel? If it's a latex or oil based house paint that is " acrylic based" it should still dry. This sounds like un-catalyzed automotive paint. If that is the case. take a small amount of lacquer thinner on a rag and remove it and start over. We need more info to be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 This appears to be done but I have a question. You said the paint is an acrylic. That's half a description. If it's automotive style, is it acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel? If it's a latex or oil based house paint that is " acrylic based" it should still dry. This sounds like un-catalyzed automotive paint. If that is the case. take a small amount of lacquer thinner on a rag and remove it and start over. We need more info to be helpful. Dr. toto, Its a acrylic latex based paint I believe... and yes it does dry. Just doesn't dry rock hard... probably because its a latex based acrylic is what I gather. From what I understand water based acrylic is basically like brush on plastic... I believe it will work with the proper amount of drying time and sunlight... its just not ideal... Its a touch up paint. I don't have the whole fairing painted in this, just 2 inch scratches here and there... ~mikeym Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 From what I understand water based acrylic is basically like brush on plastic... I believe it will work with the proper amount of drying time and sunlight... Last weekend I repainted some doors with acrylic paint and yes it is just like brush on plastic. Needed special brushes and rolles for it too as it clogged the regular brushes I had on the shelf. But my experience is that the acrylic paint dries a lot quiker than petroleum based paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jaimev34 Posted October 24, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted October 24, 2010 Forgetting all about it and just riding it till winter comes to mind :rolleyes: Then fix it properly over the winter. If you decide that you'd like to do it properly, you can buy a touch up pen from Color-Rite, or have the part scanned by a body shop that sells PPG paint - PPG has a scan tool that works really well. Then you can use that formula to have the shop mix some touch-up. But, I know nothing about painting bikes. :laughing6-hehe: Nothing at all... Showoff. :biggrin: +1 for the rattlecan clearcoat. Get one can per fairing. Get a piece of plastic with some of that paint on it and test the clear, or if you're feeling lucky, just try it out on the pieces you've got painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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