Member Contributer Bent Posted July 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 17, 2010 2006 VFR, riding down the road slowly (traffic) and the engine went completely dead. Glided to a driveway. Turn the key off. Turn it back on and try to start it. No luck. Turned the key off. Turned the key on and notice the FI light doesn't come on. Crank it a little and it doesn't start. Quit doing that since I was getting no FI light and no sound of the fuel system pressuring up when the key is turned on. Get the bike home. Don't have time to work on it right now. Anyone have any ideas of what it could be? Is there a fuse to check first? The 30 amp fuse is good. Thanks, Bent :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer hondalover Posted July 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 17, 2010 2006 VFR, riding down the road slowly (traffic) and the engine went completely dead. Glided to a driveway. Turn the key off. Turn it back on and try to start it. No luck. Turned the key off. Turned the key on and notice the FI light doesn't come on. Crank it a little and it doesn't start. Quit doing that since I was getting no FI light and no sound of the fuel system pressuring up when the key is turned on. Get the bike home. Don't have time to work on it right now. Anyone have any ideas of what it could be? Is there a fuse to check first? The 30 amp fuse is good. Thanks, Bent :fing02: Blue connector ground wire? I tought they had changed stuff on the '06 model to fix this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 not a charging issue, cause the dash lights go out before the fuel pump by about 50 yards course I knew I wasnt charging at the time so I was watching, it could be a charge issue which turned into a dead battery and you didnt notice the dash lights went black before you lost the fuel pump. the fuses and battery check seem first step course you didnt say whether the motor would turn over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Knute Posted July 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 17, 2010 2006 VFR, riding down the road slowly (traffic) and the engine went completely dead. Glided to a driveway. Turn the key off. Turn it back on and try to start it. No luck. Turned the key off. Turned the key on and notice the FI light doesn't come on. Crank it a little and it doesn't start. Quit doing that since I was getting no FI light and no sound of the fuel system pressuring up when the key is turned on. Get the bike home. Don't have time to work on it right now. Anyone have any ideas of what it could be? Is there a fuse to check first? The 30 amp fuse is good. Thanks, Bent :fing02: Wonder if it's possible that you bumped the emergency kill switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 Sorry J, Check the 10amp fi fuse in the right box! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 Any odd noises coming from the dash when you turn the key on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Knute Posted July 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 17, 2010 2006 VFR, riding down the road slowly (traffic) and the engine went completely dead. Glided to a driveway. Turn the key off. Turn it back on and try to start it. No luck. Turned the key off. Turned the key on and notice the FI light doesn't come on. Crank it a little and it doesn't start. Quit doing that since I was getting no FI light and no sound of the fuel system pressuring up when the key is turned on. Get the bike home. Don't have time to work on it right now. Anyone have any ideas of what it could be? Is there a fuse to check first? The 30 amp fuse is good. Thanks, Bent :smile: Wonder if it's possible that you bumped the emergency kill switch? Never mind... wouldn't crank if it were the kill switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted July 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 17, 2010 Check your starter relay and 30amp B fuse for any damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bent Posted July 17, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 17, 2010 Engine cranks over, kill switch was not hit and is in the right position. Will check the fi fuse when I get time. No odd noises coming from the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vtecal Posted July 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 17, 2010 Engine cranks over, kill switch was not hit and is in the right position. Will check the fi fuse when I get time. No odd noises coming from the dash. hey neighbor, like Kevin said --take a look at the 10 amp fuse in right box. if that doesn't do it PM me, I'll be in town tomorrow..... Erich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
u20overboy Posted July 18, 2010 Share Posted July 18, 2010 Engine cranks over, kill switch was not hit and is in the right position. Will check the fi fuse when I get time. No odd noises coming from the dash. Jim let me know what you need if its more than a fuse, I have a 6th gen in the garage, never had a electical problem, just a keeping it on the road problem :smile: I'll help a brother out, just PM me Good Luck John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted July 18, 2010 Share Posted July 18, 2010 Hey yah Old Fart, what's the story with the bike? :biggrin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted July 18, 2010 Share Posted July 18, 2010 Fuel pump KO maybe?? Or the wiring to it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bent Posted July 18, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 18, 2010 Don't know. I'll find out this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted July 18, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 18, 2010 Motorcycle troubleshooting is a form of problem solving... It is a logical search for the source of a problem so that it can be solved... it ain't about jumping to 10 conclusions at once... always eliminate the battery first... because you find that 90% of the time it proves to be the weakest link of your bike... and so much depends on correct voltage that it's pays to have your battery tended to a charger at all times... Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bent Posted July 19, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 19, 2010 Motorcycle troubleshooting is a form of problem solving... It is a logical search for the source of a problem so that it can be solved... it ain't about jumping to 10 conclusions at once... always eliminate the battery first... because you find that 90% of the time it proves to be the weakest link of your bike... and so much depends on correct voltage that it's pays to have your battery tended to a charger at all times... Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... Thank you a bunch, Larry. Battery weak or not, I've decided to replace it and use a tender on it from now on since it's over 4 years old and I ride in the middle of nowhere most all the time. I'm not lucky enough to have a battery that old that hasn't ever had a tender used on it. :biggrin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted July 19, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 19, 2010 Thank you a bunch, Larry. Battery weak or not, I've decided to replace it and use a tender on it from now on since it's over 4 years old and I ride in the middle of nowhere most all the time. I'm not lucky enough to have a battery that old that hasn't ever had a tender used on it. :cheerleader: You're welcome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bent Posted July 20, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 UDATE: Did the unthinkable. Took the bike to the local dealer since I have no time (and little electrical ability) to work on it. Dealer calls me today and told me what they found. Ran down there since they're close by and the 30 amp plastic fuse body is melted (but not the fuse wire itself), the connector is brown from heat, and the short wiring harness shows signs of overheating. Guess I didn't look at the fuse too good the first time. Replacing the wiring harness, connectors, fuse, and putting a new Yuasa YTZ14S battery in it. Got a decent price on the battery from the dealer compared to internet pricing and they aren't hosing me on labor. They said they would check everything electrical before they give the bike back to me. They're actually pretty decent in the service dept. and I talked the parts dept. down quite a bit on parts. Surprised myself a bit on that one. :fing02: Question for Xperts: Could the 52 month old original battery, that's never had a battery tender used on it, have been weak and caused this? Electrical issues are not my specialty.... :pinocchio: Thanks, Bent :pissed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 Jim, that sux. As to the wiring, I don't think that H ever really figured out the issues. Even the recall didn't really fix things. That 30 AMP fuse holder and the red portion of the wire must be replaced by a beefier setup to handle the load w/o overheating. Having said that, a new battery never hurt anyone yet. Just don't drop it on your foot :pinocchio: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 Question for Xperts: Could the 52 month old original battery, that's never had a battery tender used on it, have been weak and caused this? Electrical issues are not my specialty.... :pinocchio: Thanks, Bent :pissed: What causes melted connections is corrosion that builds up between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation and it may go as far to cause a fire... As the RC45 Club's tech advisor I received this urgent photo and a request as to the reason why fire almost claimed this members RC45 ... Story goes that Bob and Pam of Coventry UK... a couple of RC freaks... were on the way to Misano WSB... Pam's RC45 caught fire while stopped at a light... the flames were beat back by bottle water from a passing van... they were lucky the incident did not happen out in the middle of nowhere for it would have spread rapidly to the fuel lines and then the tank... nothing is worst as watching bike flambeau... First call was to check the alternator quick disconnect at the transformer rectifier... I was positive that the QD had suffered enough resistance to heat and melt the insulation on the wires... the wires got enough to start a fire which all most consumed her prize... I seen this problem before... As I prepared my case for Pam I pulled the seat cowl off my RC45 to send her a pic of the quick disconnect in question... Mercy was I ever in for a shock... my quick disconnect was bad and about to turn my bike into a crispy critter... Again corrosion built up between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation... Cleaning the pins with a wire brush and coating them in dielectric grease can prevent this danger from becoming a problem... My quick disconnect was toast... I decided to cut and solder the wires directly and seal with heat shrink tubing... I've solder the wires directly to eliminate the possibility of fire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bent Posted July 20, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 I had pulled the 30 amp fuse not long ago just to see if anything looked abnormal. Didn't put it back in with dielectric grease on the prongs. Bad move because I have a nice full tube of dielectric grease in the tool box. No point in using it..... :rolleyes: One of the fuse prongs looked as if it had heated up a lot. It was black and had definitely gotten hot. Live, learn and use dielectric grease.... :biggrin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bent Posted July 20, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 Jim, that sux. As to the wiring, I don't think that H ever really figured out the issues. Even the recall didn't really fix things. That 30 AMP fuse holder and the red portion of the wire must be replaced by a beefier setup to handle the load w/o overheating. Having said that, a new battery never hurt anyone yet. Just don't drop it on your foot :rolleyes: Mechanic said he sees a lot of this type thing and mostly not on VFR's. Said the same thing BLS said.....keep connections clean and use dielectric grease. If this is all that happens to it in over 4 years, I might be lucky.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Bent, I dont trust the dealer to do everything, But I'm extremely impressed you bought the big Dog, the YTZ14s YUASa. Let me know on the crank, its like it should be right ? HE HE HE HE HE! When you get the bike back, I'd pull the right side fairing and look at the yellow 3 wire connector coming from the stator, hidden in a clear rubber sleeve, make sure no corrosion in that or burnt. its crtical that its perfectly clean. seperate it and if clean hit it with WD and then ohm it on each wire through the connector. Then I'd pulled the big blue connector on the left side fairing and look at the Green ground wire for any corriosion, even if clean wd40 the connector drain and stuff it together. OR you can just hope the dealer did it Goodluck, as far as the battery causing the wiring failure, my wiring is in mint shape, around 42 ,000 mile my battery would not be able to crank leaving the lights on for a 60 seconds, the battery was getting weak. Never was there any wiring issue, like an over charging RR. So All I can say monitor for a while and get your self a voltmeter and ensure your not out on the road with excess voltage greater than 15.2 volt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Jim, that sux. As to the wiring, I don't think that H ever really figured out the issues. Even the recall didn't really fix things. That 30 AMP fuse holder and the red portion of the wire must be replaced by a beefier setup to handle the load w/o overheating. Having said that, a new battery never hurt anyone yet. Just don't drop it on your foot :rolleyes: Mechanic said he sees a lot of this type thing and mostly not on VFR's. Said the same thing BLS said.....keep connections clean and use dielectric grease. If this is all that happens to it in over 4 years, I might be lucky.... Im taking a stand, F dielectric grease, those that do are still fighting issues, just wd40 the bastards, its cleaner and better conductivity. Thats All i do on any of my bikes and I had zero melted wiring issues, including the VFR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bent Posted July 22, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2010 Bent, I dont trust the dealer to do everything, But I'm extremely impressed you bought the big Dog, the YTZ14s YUASa. Let me know on the crank, its like it should be right ? HE HE HE HE HE! When you get the bike back, I'd pull the right side fairing and look at the yellow 3 wire connector coming from the stator, hidden in a clear rubber sleeve, make sure no corrosion in that or burnt. its crtical that its perfectly clean. seperate it and if clean hit it with WD and then ohm it on each wire through the connector. Then I'd pulled the big blue connector on the left side fairing and look at the Green ground wire for any corriosion, even if clean wd40 the connector drain and stuff it together. OR you can just hope the dealer did it Goodluck, as far as the battery causing the wiring failure, my wiring is in mint shape, around 42 ,000 mile my battery would not be able to crank leaving the lights on for a 60 seconds, the battery was getting weak. Never was there any wiring issue, like an over charging RR. So All I can say monitor for a while and get your self a voltmeter and ensure your not out on the road with excess voltage greater than 15.2 volt. Thanks for the tips, SPUD. Why do you think you see people have problems when using D-grease? Do you think WD40 might clean crap out better? IF I ever buy a "cheap" battery, it won't be for a motorcycle. I'll post up how it cranks. Should get me up to 50 mph in gear before the engine starts...... :fing02: I feel naked without a motorcycle in the garage. I'm powerless, unarmed, a nobody, naked, insecure, and nervous with that space empty. It will be filled soon even if I have to buy another bike!! Hmmm......wonder if Ms. Bent will go for that...... :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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