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Brake Bleeding VTEC and 5th Generation

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Clutch

This is cake if you just did your brakes! remove the cap to the clutch fluid, suck it out or use a rag.

service26.jpg

The bleeder bib is on the clutch slave cylinder near the kickstand

service27.jpg (

Bleeding a standard VTEC

We began by removing the seat and prepping the back area for work. Take off the 2 black Plastic pieces on both sides of the tank. Actually its not necessary to remove the piece on the right side but It could be a bit of a hassle to deal with.

vtecbleed01.jpg

Removeing the Plastic on the right side

vtecbleed02.jpg

With the plastic removed you have more room to work, push in the center of the plastic clips to remove them.

vtecbleed03.jpg

Proportion valve bleeder on the left side

vtecbleed04.jpg

Left side removed covers the proportion valve and battery

vtecbleed05.jpg

Turn the handlebar to level the master cylinder remove the cap, plate, and diaphram

vtecbleed06.jpg

My vacuum bleeder has an auto filler that seals off the master cylinder and siphons in new fluid from a fill bottle.

Begin Bleeding The front Brakes

vtecbleed07.jpg

Begin on the right side top bleeder (its the only bleed valve on the right front)

You vacuum until its clean fluid then pump the bar hold it and close the valve. You will get air in the bleeder line its unavoidable, just make sure its clean coming out.

vtecbleed08.jpg

Cruddy fluid still coming out

Now go to the left side and do the top valve.

vtecbleed09.jpg

The bleeders on the calipers are 8mm, after you get clean fluid pump the handle again hold it and close off the bleeder

vtecbleed09.jpg

Top off the master cylinder and your done with the front, put the cap and stuff back on.

Doing the Back Master Cylinder

vtecbleed11.jpg

Remove the cap and diaphragm

I suck out the master cylinders first and top off with new fluid before bleeding.

vtecbleed12.jpg

The siphon filler would not seal cause of the ABS plastic was holding it up.

If you spill brake fluid clean it up with soapy water right away or it will eat the paint!

vtecbleed13.jpg

The center valve on the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder start there

They recommend that you remove the caliper and hold it at 45 degrees to help the air bubbles float out, they also say to replace the calipers bolts when you remove them. NAH! Power bleeder!! I just push on the secondary master cylinder above the caliper to pump the air out.

vtecbleed14.jpg

Push on the caliper forward to pump the secondary master cylinder

vtecbleed15.jpg

The Proportion valve wont bleed at all until you pump the petal, its 10mm wrench

vtecbleed16.jpg

Top off the rear reservoir so it doesn't go dry, start with the rear top bleeder

vtecbleed17.jpg

The old fluid is very dark! you will use a lot of fluid to do the VFR! almost a liter, we used synthetic Valvoline brake fluid.

vtecbleed18.jpg

Getting to the valves on the rear caliper is a pain in the butt

vtecbleed19.jpg

you can see a glimpse of the top bleeder in this shot

Again pump the petal hold it and then close the valve, do the front valve after the top valve.

Clutch Line

vtecbleed20.jpg

Remove the cap, suck out the bad fluid, top it off

vtecbleed21.jpg

Location of the slave bleeder on the left side of the bike

Check the firmness of the levers and petal and make sure the clutch operates. If you feel spongy then you still have air in the system you will need to re-bleed!

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Clutch

This is cake if you just did your brakes! remove the cap to the clutch fluid, suck it out or use a rag.

service26.jpg

The bleeder bib is on the clutch slave cylinder near the kickstand

service27.jpg (

Bleeding a standard VTEC

We began by removing the seat and prepping the back area for work. Take off the 2 black Plastic pieces on both sides of the tank. Actually its not necessary to remove the piece on the right side but It could be a bit of a hassle to deal with.

vtecbleed01.jpg

Removeing the Plastic on the right side

vtecbleed02.jpg

With the plastic removed you have more room to work, push in the center of the plastic clips to remove them.

vtecbleed03.jpg

Proportion valve bleeder on the left side

vtecbleed04.jpg

Left side removed covers the proportion valve and battery

vtecbleed05.jpg

Turn the handlebar to level the master cylinder remove the cap, plate, and diaphram

vtecbleed06.jpg

My vacuum bleeder has an auto filler that seals off the master cylinder and siphons in new fluid from a fill bottle.

Begin Bleeding The front Brakes

vtecbleed07.jpg

Begin on the right side top bleeder (its the only bleed valve on the right front)

You vacuum until its clean fluid then pump the bar hold it and close the valve. You will get air in the bleeder line its unavoidable, just make sure its clean coming out.

vtecbleed08.jpg

Cruddy fluid still coming out

Now go to the left side and do the top valve.

vtecbleed09.jpg

The bleeders on the calipers are 8mm, after you get clean fluid pump the handle again hold it and close off the bleeder

vtecbleed09.jpg

Top off the master cylinder and your done with the front, put the cap and stuff back on.

Doing the Back Master Cylinder

vtecbleed11.jpg

Remove the cap and diaphragm

I suck out the master cylinders first and top off with new fluid before bleeding.

vtecbleed12.jpg

The siphon filler would not seal cause of the ABS plastic was holding it up.

If you spill brake fluid clean it up with soapy water right away or it will eat the paint!

vtecbleed13.jpg

The center valve on the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder start there

They recommend that you remove the caliper and hold it at 45 degrees to help the air bubbles float out, they also say to replace the calipers bolts when you remove them. NAH! Power bleeder!! I just push on the secondary master cylinder above the caliper to pump the air out.

vtecbleed14.jpg

Push on the caliper forward to pump the secondary master cylinder

vtecbleed15.jpg

The Proportion valve wont bleed at all until you pump the petal, its 10mm wrench

vtecbleed16.jpg

Top off the rear reservoir so it doesn't go dry, start with the rear top bleeder

vtecbleed17.jpg

The old fluid is very dark! you will use a lot of fluid to do the VFR! almost a liter, we used synthetic Valvoline brake fluid.

vtecbleed18.jpg

Getting to the valves on the rear caliper is a pain in the butt

vtecbleed19.jpg

you can see a glimpse of the top bleeder in this shot

Again pump the petal hold it and then close the valve, do the front valve after the top valve.

Clutch Line

vtecbleed20.jpg

Remove the cap, suck out the bad fluid, top it off

vtecbleed21.jpg

Location of the slave bleeder on the left side of the bike

Check the firmness of the levers and petal and make sure the clutch operates. If you feel spongy then you still have air in the system you will need to re-bleed!

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vtecbleed07.jpgB

Brake and clutch bleeding for a Honda VFR vtec

Clutch

This is cake if you just did your brakes! remove the cap to the clutch fluid, suck it out or use a rag.

service26.jpg

The bleeder bib is on the clutch slave cylinder near the kickstand

service27.jpg (

Bleeding a standard VTEC

We began by removing the seat and prepping the back area for work. Take off the 2 black Plastic pieces on both sides of the tank. Actually its not necessary to remove the piece on the right side but It could be a bit of a hassle to deal with.

vtecbleed01.jpg

Removeing the Plastic on the right side

vtecbleed02.jpg

With the plastic removed you have more room to work, push in the center of the plastic clips to remove them.

vtecbleed03.jpg

Proportion valve bleeder on the left side

vtecbleed04.jpg

Left side removed covers the proportion valve and battery

vtecbleed05.jpg

Turn the handlebar to level the master cylinder remove the cap, plate, and diaphram

vtecbleed06.jpg

My vacuum bleeder has an auto filler that seals off the master cylinder and siphons in new fluid from a fill bottle.

Begin Bleeding The front Brakes

vtecbleed07.jpg

Begin on the right side top bleeder (its the only bleed valve on the right front)

You vacuum until its clean fluid then pump the bar hold it and close the valve. You will get air in the bleeder line its unavoidable, just make sure its clean coming out.

vtecbleed08.jpg

Cruddy fluid still coming out

Now go to the left side and do the top valve.

vtecbleed09.jpg

The bleeders on the calipers are 8mm, after you get clean fluid pump the handle again hold it and close off the bleeder

vtecbleed09.jpg

Top off the master cylinder and your done with the front, put the cap and stuff back on.

Doing the Back Master Cylinder

vtecbleed11.jpg

Remove the cap and diaphragm

I suck out the master cylinders first and top off with new fluid before bleeding.

vtecbleed12.jpg

The siphon filler would not seal cause of the ABS plastic was holding it up.

If you spill brake fluid clean it up with soapy water right away or it will eat the paint!

vtecbleed13.jpg

The center valve on the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder start there

They recommend that you remove the caliper and hold it at 45 degrees to help the air bubbles float out, they also say to replace the calipers bolts when you remove them. NAH! Power bleeder!! I just push on the secondary master cylinder above the caliper to pump the air out.

vtecbleed14.jpg

Push on the caliper forward to pump the secondary master cylinder

vtecbleed15.jpg

The Proportion valve wont bleed at all until you pump the petal, its 10mm wrench

vtecbleed16.jpg

Top off the rear reservoir so it doesn't go dry, start with the rear top bleeder

vtecbleed17.jpg

The old fluid is very dark! you will use a lot of fluid to do the VFR! almost a liter, we used synthetic Valvoline brake fluid.

vtecbleed18.jpg

Getting to the valves on the rear caliper is a pain in the butt

vtecbleed19.jpg

you can see a glimpse of the top bleeder in this shot

Again pump the petal hold it and then close the valve, do the front valve after the top valve.

Clutch Line

vtecbleed20.jpg

Remove the cap, suck out the bad fluid, top it off

vtecbleed21.jpg

Location of the slave bleeder on the left side of the bike

Check the firmness of the levers and petal and make sure the clutch operates. If you feel spongy then you still have air in the system you will need to re-bleed!

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Which one of the three versions is the correct one? :unsure:

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Which one of the three versions is the correct one? :unsure:

Bleeding order

- Front Brake

- Right outer

- Left outer

- Rear brake

- Right Center Front

- Left Center Front

- PCV

- Rear Center (if you can't access the bleeds, may have to remove the wheel and caliper and move it to 2 o'clock position)

- Rear Outer

Get speed bleeders fitted - saves time and effort.

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I'm planning on doing the clutch fluid tomorrow.

I've been reading some stuff, and since I don't have a vacuum pump, I'll be doing it the old fashioned way (with just a hose on the bleeder).

It seems simpler too.

The only thing that really puts me off is removing the left side of the fairing (5th gen). I'm scared of scratching it, breaking the clips, or it not fitting perfectly when re-installed.

I did read however something about leaving pressure on the handlebar overnight with a zipty. What's that all about?

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I'm planning on doing the clutch fluid tomorrow.

I've been reading some stuff, and since I don't have a vacuum pump, I'll be doing it the old fashioned way (with just a hose on the bleeder).

It seems simpler too.

The only thing that really puts me off is removing the left side of the fairing (5th gen). I'm scared of scratching it, breaking the clips, or it not fitting perfectly when re-installed.

I did read however something about leaving pressure on the handlebar overnight with a zipty. What's that all about?

I guess the zipty is for checking for leaks.

I just installed Galfer Lines and I guess I have to re-bleed the rear.

Initial spongy feel but after 1 pedal press its firm after 1 or 2 minutes back to sponge.

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I'm a little confused about the PCV bleed.

I changed all my bleed valves out to speed bleeders and just want to make sure I didn't introduce any air in the lines in the process. Not clear to me whether I should pump the secondary master cylinder or the rear pedal to bleed air out the PCV. The secondary master cylinder pumping doesn't feel very positive. Did I screw it up if I did both?

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I'm a little confused about the PCV bleed.

I changed all my bleed valves out to speed bleeders and just want to make sure I didn't introduce any air in the lines in the process. Not clear to me whether I should pump the secondary master cylinder or the rear pedal to bleed air out the PCV. The secondary master cylinder pumping doesn't feel very positive. Did I screw it up if I did both?

Correct process

Front Brake

- Right outer

- Left outer

Rear brake

- Right Center Front

- Left Center Front

- (remove and Tilt the Front left CApiler to 15 degrees - to release any air bubbles to the PCV)

- PCV

- (Fit Front Left Capliper back)

- (remove wheel and rear caliper, move to 2 o'clock position)

- Rear Center

- Rear Outer

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only an octopus can get to that top valve on the rear brake caliper.

but i did it all today, just not the top bleed valve, seems to be alright though.

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only an octopus can get to that top valve on the rear brake caliper.

but i did it all today, just not the top bleed valve, seems to be alright though.

It is quite a tight squeeze there. ideally you are suppose to take it out the entire caliper and move it to 2 o'clock position.

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like this:

the caliper is at 12 o'clock ...should be at 2 o'clock so the bleed valve is upwards

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How can you tell if your lines are free of air bubbles?

I just change my brake and clutch fluid for the first time. After a happy dance of finally doing it myself someone has now got me all paranoid by saying "if an air bubble crept up in there you wont have any brakes".

I took the bike out right after changing the fluid and the brakes were nice and smooth all the way through. I then practiced some emergency braking and all seems well (slightly better actually).

Can air bubbles show themselves over time or would you be able to notice them right away? Is there any way to ensure the lines are free of air bubbles?

Edited by phoenixfire

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HS, thanks for the great write up. I have this on my maint. list for end of this summer season. Ernie

.

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How can you tell if your lines are free of air bubbles?

I just change my brake and clutch fluid for the first time. After a happy dance of finally doing it myself someone has now got me all paranoid by saying "if an air bubble crept up in there you wont have any brakes".

I took the bike out right after changing the fluid and the brakes were nice and smooth all the way through. I then practiced some emergency braking and all seems well (slightly better actually).

Can air bubbles show themselves over time or would you be able to notice them right away? Is there any way to ensure the lines are free of air bubbles?

spongy brake lever/pedal, dragging of brakes, lever/pedal going all the way and very less response on the brakes - are first sign of air in the system.

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Hey.
Can air in CBS cause vibration?
Thinking about the left caliper and the travel it has up and down.

Got som mystery vibration that I got when I first put wilbers Springs in my forks.

Thats the first thing I did. And only that.

Now I can not get rid of it.

I changed my breaks disc half a year before this, so i was pretty sure this was not the problem.

Done som serious work and I'm soon out of ideas.

Things I have done after the problem... ..in this order
Steering heads bearings

Wheel bearing

Changed tires
New Brembo break pads.

Fork sealings and bushing, and vtr fork rod swap with compression gold valve and rebound valve re-shimming. (inkluded wilbers fork springs)

Meassured semi floating Rotor discs ( within specs: 5-6/1000) ? Just ordered new Galfer discs anyway.

Last thing to try is bleed my brakes.
Wondering if trapped air in the system can cause brakes to "bounce"..
Brakes have a nice bite and feel to them and I can not feel any in motion in the break handle. so there is something mysterious going on here.

Edited by VfrViddy

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On 4/1/2012 at 10:27 AM, AnikMankar said:

Correct process

Front Brake

- Right outer

- Left outer

Rear brake

- Right Center Front  <<<<

- Left Center Front    <<<<

- (remove and Tilt the Front left CApiler to 15 degrees - to release any air bubbles to the PCV)

- PCV

- (Fit Front Left Capliper back)

- (remove wheel and rear caliper, move to 2 o'clock position)

- Rear Center

- Rear Outer

Okay this makes no sense <<

 

What is the "right center front" or "left center front?" That's not clear at all!

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I think the way he was referring to this made a distinction between the 3 pistons  on the front calipers.   The two outermost ones are operated by the front lever, which have their own bleed valve while the center piston is operated by the rear brake pedal via the proportioning control valve.  The center piston has its own bleed valve which is oriented to the horizontal when the caliper is installed.  Hence the recommendation to tilt it up 15 degrees to make it the highest point when bleeding.   

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So the process is . 

 

Front Brake

- Front Right

- Front Left

Rear brake

- level out and Right Push up and bleed at the..... - PCV

- (Fit Front Left Capliper back)

- (remove wheel and rear caliper, move to 2 o'clock position)

- Rear Center

- Rear Outer

and then the right hand side valve opposite the battery?

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Thanks for such a helpful post. Going to do it on a 5th Gen.

 

Clutch and front is clear, there's just 1 bleeder on the front and 2 on the rear, nothing else. Is that right?

 

I swear have seen a post by HS for doing it for 6th Gen LBS, not sure if it's same or there's a separate one for 5th Gen?

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