skymon

Thanks JHZ. That at least rules out the "Titanium" from Sidewinder/Krause. 🙂 (Mainly I just don't want black paint. Some of the JTs come that way.) I could do my own holes. I do have a mill and a rotary table. But before I spent all this time hemming and hawing I thought I didn't want to go to any "trouble". Once again, I'm sure I'm over-thinking it. I've lived with extra holes for years without really even noticing.

yup. your're right about the 5th and 6th. Guess the additional holes are for 3rd and 4th. From sprocket center: "*This part number is double drilled with two bolt patterns so it fits all VFR 750/800 models from 1990-2014. "

I know this is kind of nit picky but... I want to replace my rear sprocket (and front and chain of course) and I want specifically to get: 530 pitch/width 43T Plated Steel ("Silver") Not "Double Drilled" (hole patterns for both 5th and 6th gen) Its a little difficult to be sure that a given manufacturer has exactly what I want because the photos tend to be generic or just old. Looks like my choices are these: JT JTR1340.43 double drilled Sunstar 2-569443 pictures vary OEM 41201-MBG-000 pictures vary Anybody know how to source exactly what I want? p.s. The one I'm replacing has a mysterious pt. number. Wonder if anyone knows its manufacturer. (see photo) And yes, I was asking about sourcing the "dampened" front sprocket months ago. I'm moving pretty slow on this. 🙂

Yeah. Its about being quieter. Just what I've always had I guess. Maybe I'm afraid of change? 🙂

Thanks skant. But yeah. I asked them. I need a 530 17T. They said they don't carry them with rubber. (And that I don't need it.) Well, I like em that way. 😉

By any chance could you recommend a good source for these?

I know the OEM drive sprockets have a rubber cushion on one side. Sprocket Center says they don't carry them. Partzilla's website doesn't make it clear if their sprockets (23801-MAT-760) do either. Where is the best place to get the "cushioned" ones?

Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnRS8f9QcrA

Cool. Never knew that. Do all generations have that? Pretty loud even with. Wondering what without would sound like...

Wish I could bring them both on the dual-sport trips.

With the VFR I always get off and put it on the side stand. I guess I just dont want to think about balancing the bike and dealing with my wallet and the pump and stuff. I do however, sometimes fill my dirtbike tank while its in the back of my pickup. I'm in there too. I never really thought about it (and me) not being grounded. Isn't that what everybody does? What can you do, throw out a grounding strap while you fill it?

Excellent. Thats what I wanted to hear. Thanks.

Thanks for the recommendations. I can see they are definitely less expensive than other online sources and waaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyy less expensive than the dealer. What I can't be sure of is that they'll be of OEM quality. e.g. same head diameter, same head height. Are they really the same as originals, or do they substitute fasteners that fit but are more commonly available. Anyone know if one can get the original fasteners but from solid stainless as opposed to plated?

Hoping for stainless steel. Would settle for decent quality plating. I naively assumed the originals were stainless but after a cordless drill spin on some red scotchbrite they appear to be (have been) plated. (oops) I'm thinking about the: 90103-MBG-000 (small dia. head fairing bolts) 90112-MT4-000 (lg dia head fairing bolts) 90116-MBG-000 ("frankenbolts") for my 5th gen

http://www.wiremybike.com/body-mounting-hardware-c-44.html?osCsid=abd2de525b9e3e4a074ea761d1083274 (pretty close fit)

MBrane suggested a modified oil filter a while back. Works great. Grind off a few teeth as per photo.

Thanks. Your recollection sounds exactly like what it looks like. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something even easier. (Like somehow getting the switch assembly separated from the throttle tube while it was still on the handlebar.)

Can the starter switch assembly be removed without removing the clip-on and the "throttle pipe"?

I don't know if this is applicable but... I notice that when I put the level right in the middle of the two marks after checking as per the manual (run 3 min, let sit 3 min), later when the bike is totally cold it will show level at or just slightly above the upper line. In other words, the oil continues to seep down into the pan for quite a while after I shut it off. (amsoil 10w 40)

if you're talking about the plug that covers the pin that retains the pads, I had the same headache recently. On my 5th gen it was really easy to use an "easy out" to get it out. It even had a little centering detent in the middle of the slot to help the drill bit stay centered. (There is space enough behind it to get the drill bit stopped before it hit the pin too)

Magazine rack. (Actually it was a mock up for the windscreen angle of a fairing he later made for it. Sorry no picture of finished product.)

I bought it from the second owner. Never got the story on the RWB. It definitely was an '83. I believe the red stripes were decals. Original owner could have removed the blue and replaced with red. Great bike. I put about 70,000 of its 85,000 on it. Still ran strong when I gave it to a friend about 5 years ago.

I had one of those on my '83 (or so I was told). It looked just like that though. Did you get the can too? I only have a couple of old pictures but it had an aluminum heat shield with pop rivits. Looked like this:

So I've been using a Lascar Voltmeter for a year or so just connected directly to the battery. No relay, no toggle switch. It draws 3 mA. Not sure but I imagine thats about what the digital clock on my 5th gen draws. Both are just always on. Never had a problem. Something I'm missing here? (I do use a battery tender when I'm not gonna ride it for a week or more. So probably not a very demanding test.)

Every time I read a thread about Seafoam I wonder how the conversation would change if the Seafoam user just said "I use diesel, naptha, and/or rubbing alcohol in my -------" instead. The effects of any of Seafoam's ingredients are pretty familiar. (e.g. diesel is "sooty", alcohol attracts water, etc.) I've yet to see any good scientific studies of Seafoam's proposed benefits. Now that would be interesting. Otherwise is just seems like pretty successful marketing to me._ edit: I guess I'm not sure exactly what Seafoam's "pale oil" ingredient refers to. Could be more like mineral oil than diesel. I think my point is the same though either way. Seafoam MSDS: http://www.seafoamsales.com/266-msdsseafoamen.html