Member Contributer Kel Posted July 22, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2009 Very nice Kel!! Does it still fit on the bike ok? These parts are pretty "loose" in the tolerance department so I think I'm good. The fiber is thin as are the resin layers but it could be an issue wth tighter fitting parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted July 22, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2009 Man, that is killer! I've always wanted to try that but I don't think I have enough patience to do it right. Where did you buy your CF supplies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Probably www.fiberglast.com? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 here is a good tutorial... http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=127320 but i love those CF parts. they will definitely add a new flavor to the bike. Good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 22, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2009 Man, that is killer! I've always wanted to try that but I don't think I have enough patience to do it right. Where did you buy your CF supplies? The CF came from ebay(doesn't everything?) and the resin came from a local marina. It is high quality resin and not cheap but dries clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted July 23, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted July 23, 2009 Man, that is killer! I've always wanted to try that but I don't think I have enough patience to do it right. Where did you buy your CF supplies? The CF came from ebay(doesn't everything?) and the resin came from a local marina. It is high quality resin and not cheap but dries clear. I've used that West system before and it's good stuff. Pretty much the #1 choice for folks doing any kind of epoxy work it seems. Now you've got me wanting to do something like that! I'd like to see if/how you could lay down enough layers to make a part 20-25mm thick.... assuming that's even possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 23, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 23, 2009 Man, that is killer! I've always wanted to try that but I don't think I have enough patience to do it right. Where did you buy your CF supplies? The CF came from ebay(doesn't everything?) and the resin came from a local marina. It is high quality resin and not cheap but dries clear. I've used that West system before and it's good stuff. Pretty much the #1 choice for folks doing any kind of epoxy work it seems. Now you've got me wanting to do something like that! I'd like to see if/how you could lay down enough layers to make a part 20-25mm thick.... assuming that's even possible. There is some stuff out there that is like a honeycomb sheet that soaks up the resin then you skin it with the CF. It's the thickness of cardboard. You could probably sandwich 2 together. Great for making dash/gauge panels. Give me a chance and i'll see if I can find some for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 28, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 28, 2009 It was finally time to go from this... and this... to this... I had to spin the CBR cap around due to my custom vent tube but I'll probably go with an aftermarket spin on quick fill so it won't matter. Looks good in real life. Just need to lay on some body filler and smooth it out. It took about 500 spot welds to close it up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Wow, she is going to be special. Love this stuff :goofy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Eggsellent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted July 30, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted July 30, 2009 Why spotwelds?(researching my own here) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 30, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 30, 2009 Why spotwelds?(researching my own here) From the research I did on welding thin metal, a series of spot welds was most frequently advised. I suppose you could braze it but I have a welder so that was my route plus I know it's a good bond. I used 6-8 spot welds to hold it then began 1-2 inch strings of spot welds. I basically just closed my eyes and laid a spot, just as it began to stop glowing, eyes closed and another, slightly overlapping the previous. Then I would go to the other side and do an inch or so there. I would skip around the seam, criss crossing back and forth so as not to put too much heat in the metal which could warp it. This method also helps to prevent blowing through the thin metal which you would do if you tried to just lay down a long bead( well, I would any way). The VF tank has an odd shape in front of the gas fill so cutting the CBR fill out and making it sit down correctly was a bit of a challenge. The CBR tank vent(A) and drain(B) go through the bottom of the tank. I really didn't want to get in to messing with the bottom so I used part of the copper drain tube(B) to act as a vent. I turned it up and crimped the end. I then drilled a small drain hole in the low part of the tube elbow and that seems to be fine. I had to rotate the cap/base 180 degrees to let the drain tubes elbow face forward and up to the highest place in the tank. Fuel can't splash up in to the fill drain hole but any fuel that does spill at the cap can drain into the tank. I'll just have to not over fill the tank. I've heard of people drilling the cap somewhere to provide venting. May go that route if problems show up from this setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 So by spot welds you really mean tack welds, and stitch welds. You weren't using a spot welder, correct? A mig or plain wire feed more likely? If you have a tig you can color me jealous! It looks good, definitely makes the bike look newer. It's too bad you had to mount the cap backwards to make it work, IMO, since I prefer the look of the stock cap over the racing style ones. (which can be had for about $38 from ebay hong kong sellers, btw!) Keep it up man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 30, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 30, 2009 So by spot welds you really mean tack welds, and stitch welds. You weren't using a spot welder, correct? A mig or plain wire feed more likely? If you have a tig you can color me jealous!It looks good, definitely makes the bike look newer. It's too bad you had to mount the cap backwards to make it work, IMO, since I prefer the look of the stock cap over the racing style ones. (which can be had for about $38 from ebay hong kong sellers, btw!) Keep it up man! I guess I mean tack weld. I use those terms interchangeably, wrongly, I see. I tried to loop the copper tube but it really wanted to crimp and I felt( right or wrong) that it should be as high in the tank as possible. This meant flipping it so the elbow pointed forwards. I could have cut it and soldered it but it would have been a butt joint and I didn't want anything questionable in there once it got buttoned up. I was on the fence about whether I would care if the writing was upside down or not. I suppose I could drill out 3 of the faux bolts and mount it correctly and just epoxy in some allen heads in the old holes? I like the stock look as well and also like some of the multi bolt aftermarket ones. Not crazy about the 3 bolt ones. Keyless is appealing. Ideally, to get the race bike look, I would love something like this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 The "fake" bolts are actual bolts, they thread out with a 5mm allen just like the "real" 3. :laugh: Could you have welded a nipple to the top of the tank and run a loop of fuel line to the stem hole in the triple, like a dirt bike/old racebike? Or are you trying to keep it more modern? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 30, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 30, 2009 The "fake" bolts are actual bolts, they thread out with a 5mm allen just like the "real" 3. :laugh:Could you have welded a nipple to the top of the tank and run a loop of fuel line to the stem hole in the triple, like a dirt bike/old racebike? Or are you trying to keep it more modern? I like it clean, so no nipple. Cool on the "fake" bolts! I'll have to go out and see if its possible to just remove and mount. I don't mind saving $40 at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 If it's a matter of saving $40, just leave it. It doesn't look that bad! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted August 16, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 16, 2009 The Rc30 wheel is done. 1st try RC30 rim.jpg You can read about how I did it here RC30 wheel powder coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted August 25, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 25, 2009 I finished up the body filler and put on a coat of primer on the VF tank. Definitely looks better than stock. It has a nice profile. I'll be glad to have a flat perch for a tank bag with this set up. Still have some finish work on some pin holes but she's close to ready for paint. V45 tank1.jpg V45 tank2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Kel, is that a dent on the knee pocket ridge, at 9:15 in relation to the petcock? A nice trick for finding high & low spots is to get a spray can of black primer, and mist a very light coat over an area. (VERY light, just enough to get the overspray effect) Then lightly block with your sandpaper; the black will come off the high spots and stay in the low spots. If you're not already using SEM filler primer, use that as it's thicker and better for filling pinholes and smoothing. Then use regular primer, then sealer, color, etc. Good work! Think you'll get a ride in soon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted August 25, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 25, 2009 Kel, is that a dent on the knee pocket ridge, at 9:15 in relation to the petcock? A nice trick for finding high & low spots is to get a spray can of black primer, and mist a very light coat over an area. (VERY light, just enough to get the overspray effect) Then lightly block with your sandpaper; the black will come off the high spots and stay in the low spots. If you're not already using SEM filler primer, use that as it's thicker and better for filling pinholes and smoothing. Then use regular primer, then sealer, color, etc. Good work! Think you'll get a ride in soon? Yep, part of the reason for getting the primer on was to find the spots that don't show in the raw metal state. A few small areas to address but considering the carnage that took place on this thing, I'd say all's good. "Soon" is relative at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Sorry if I came off as preachy :ph34r: , just trying to pass on what I've picked up over the years, although I'm far from an expert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted August 25, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 25, 2009 Sorry if I came off as preachy :cool: , just trying to pass on what I've picked up over the years, although I'm far from an expert. No preaching detected here. All good points. :ph34r: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted September 6, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2009 Got the exhaust done. The rear header, pipe and can are the left side and it's attached to the front which is the right side. There's a break in the front mid pipe to allow for easy installation. It's held together with an exhaust spring. It will definitely flow some exhaust, maybe too much, who knows. I sprayed on the Ceramic coating and baked it for 1 hour at 500 degrees, another good use of the custom oven. I didn't think it would actually polish out but it is shiny, not chrome shiny but more like nickel shiny. It comes out chalky but does polish out. We'll see if it holds up. They say it's good to 2000 degrees? If it does hold up, it's a bargain at $40. I thought it would hide my crappy welds but not so. I'm no welder but I want to do everything myself on this project. Good enough for a race bike. The cans are polished aluminum with custom caps. Now I just have to make some baffles cause this thing will be loud without them! new.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Old School Posted September 7, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted September 7, 2009 Yea Im first to reply!! OMG that is F#%^* HOT, I wish I had a bike I could chop and mod :fing02: Go man Go Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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