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Time To Rebuild The VF1000R...IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Kel

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So how are you doing that? When I mocked mine up with the sss, the only way I saw to fit it was to cut out the frame brackets for the original swingarm pivots? Have some pics? (I just tossed a spare R frame a few months ago, wish I had held on to it for this exact exercise.)

He`s using a different swingarm.

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Damn man, looks great but you need to pick up the pace or your first test ride will be in the snow!

Can you angle the tail up a little to let the cans come out under the tail? I always thought the RC51 taillight(blinker-integrated led version) looked great in those tails!

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Very cool.

My R has a spacer on either side of the rear shock. In that case I would just put two on the right side and see if that helps out the shock fitment.

What tail is that? I have been planning (in imagination land anyway) to use a 6th gen VFR. I like that though for the way it covers those stupid side grills that break on every 1KR

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So how are you doing that? When I mocked mine up with the sss, the only way I saw to fit it was to cut out the frame brackets for the original swingarm pivots? Have some pics? (I just tossed a spare R frame a few months ago, wish I had held on to it for this exact exercise.)

He`s using a different swingarm.

It's a VFR750 arm, not sure of the year.

Damn man, looks great but you need to pick up the pace or your first test ride will be in the snow!

Can you angle the tail up a little to let the cans come out under the tail? I always thought the RC51 taillight(blinker-integrated led version) looked great in those tails!

I thought of that but thought it might look a little too Ducati-ish.

Very cool.

My R has a spacer on either side of the rear shock. In that case I would just put two on the right side and see if that helps out the shock fitment.

What tail is that? I have been planning (in imagination land anyway) to use a 6th gen VFR. I like that though for the way it covers those stupid side grills that break on every 1KR

The shock is not the issue, the shock heads down to the linkage just fine. It's the linkage. I fab'd one up but have no idea of the ride it will impart. I'm sure there's some formula but it's beyond me. It's an RC45 race tail that was pretty rashed when I got it. It will need some TLC on the outside and some carbon fiber on the inside to get rid of some of the flex. It also needs a good trimming to get it to fit below the tank, etc.

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It's a VFR750 arm, not sure of the year.

Kel, looking at the linkage it`s from a 91-93. I think David Nelson(?)(from the old yahoo list) used the same. Mine is from 94-97.

For some reason I keep thinking VFR400 arm.........

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Kel, looking at the linkage it`s from a 91-93. I think David Nelson(?)(from the old yahoo list) used the same. Mine is from 94-97.

For some reason I keep thinking VFR400 arm.........

The linkage that's on there is a stock kR's that I modified to fit, the angle of the linkage is different from the VFR's so I don't know if that is a big deal or not. Did you change the upper shock position because the arm forced you to or was it to route the exhaust? I understand that different year VFR arms have different linkage positions?

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The linkage that's on there is a stock kR's that I modified to fit, the angle of the linkage is different from the VFR's so I don't know if that is a big deal or not. Did you change the upper shock position because the arm forced you to or was it to route the exhaust? I understand that different year VFR arms have different linkage positions?

I changed the shock mount because I was using the arm and shock from the VFR750 and knew I could get the Ohlins when I was ready and also because I had a very talented Machinist friend who suggested we build in adjustable ride height so we could tweak the chassis to get the most out of the bike with the new suspension. I knew going in that the exhaust would need to be completely custom, but the arm was the priority....funny thinking about this now...when I started all I wanted was wider wheels and modern tires...

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Nice & sunny & warm here today Kel... you done yet?

Being a few hundred miles away, I'm surprised you can see the open wound from there but clearly the distance is not affecting the amount of salt applied!

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Nice & sunny & warm here today Kel... you done yet?

Being a few hundred miles away, I'm surprised you can see the open wound from there but clearly the distance is not affecting the amount of salt applied!

:blush:

I have no sympathy for self-inflicted wounds of this nature, sorry!! :blush:

Now get back to work! I need some motivation! :blush:

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WORLD"S UGLIEST V4!!!

gallery_13847_3747_222900.jpg

ugly1.jpg

Actually I'm really liking the way it's headed, really, REALLY liking it! I can't believe how tall it sits without the motor in, it's got to be 3 inches taller in the front. The kick stand barely works. A lot of glass work left to do, fill in the headlight opening, fix the mirror mounting points, trim the tail some more and so on. I'm glassing over the oil door. No biggie to drop the lower, I can probably do it faster than my wife can pop the hood on her car. I think the tank works perfectly with the RC45 tail. I just wish I had the time to dive into bringing the entire upper and lower down and back slightly but oh well. I've got the 400 wheel on to roll it around, still haven't gotten a tire for the RC30 wheel.

I did get the motor painted and a stainless bolt kit installed. Also put in a new clutch while I was at it.

gallery_13847_3747_286524.jpg

rmotor.jpg

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Looking good Kel. That frame sure looks empty.

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Alright, progress!! :fing02:

Curious to know if you'd given any thought to bracing the swingarm?

Only thought of doing something cosmetically, MV-ish.

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Alright, progress!! :fing02:

Curious to know if you'd given any thought to bracing the swingarm?

Only thought of doing something cosmetically, MV-ish.

Sounds good, might as well use the right type of AL though and get it welded properly if you're going through all the effort anyway - the R is beefy to say the least and bracing that skinny arm couldn't hurt! :cool:

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Looks like the tank and seat flow really well. Any clearance issues on the RC30 wheel to the 400 arm? I`ve got a 400 arm here and wondering what to do with it...

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Looks like the tank and seat flow really well. Any clearance issues on the RC30 wheel to the 400 arm? I`ve got a 400 arm here and wondering what to do with it...

OK Tom, let's go over this just one last time :fing02: ...it's a VFR750 arm, modified hawk spindle. Get VFR400 arm right out of the old noodle!

Funny you should write today cause I was thinking of you. I'm looking at the wheel alignment and chain alignment and it's working out way too well so of course I'm thinking something's wrong. Using the hole in the back/top of the subframe as center(I checked to the front and back tank mounts), I get dead on with the wheel. From there, it's about a 3-4mm shim of the front sprocket. I chose to remove material from inside the cush drive and cut down the cush rubbers(making them shorter not thinner, of course) to move the sprocket towards the wheel. What's got me 2nd guessing is I didn't have to sink the left side bearing like you to get the wheel over. Are our arms that different?

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So, what are you doing for a headlight?

It's looking like a single, 5.75" round off to the left side. If I found a 4.5 or a 5, that would be cool too. I've seen some FZR and ZX headlights on ebay but I just can't bring myself to putting other manufacturers stock parts on the Honda. I do ride at night so I want as much punch as I can get in a small single round light. Asking a lot I know.

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So, what are you doing for a headlight?

It's looking like a single, 5.75" round off to the left side. If I found a 4.5 or a 5, that would be cool too. I've seen some FZR and ZX headlights on ebay but I just can't bring myself to putting other manufacturers stock parts on the Honda. I do ride at night so I want as much punch as I can get in a small single round light. Asking a lot I know.

How about one of these? EBAY LINK

:fing02:

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Yes, I've seen those and their many cousins. The problem is, because they're sealed beam replacements, there's no clean way to attach them to anything, most have plastic housings. Plus I'm not sure of the out put. It's got to have a glass lens and a metal reflector so I can maybe use an HID setup. Here's what I see a lot of on Ebay.

Headlight

But, I hear the HID bulbs don't work as well with certain reflectors.

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Yes, I've seen those and their many cousins. The problem is, because they're sealed beam replacements, there's no clean way to attach them to anything, most have plastic housings. Plus I'm not sure of the out put. It's got to have a glass lens and a metal reflector so I can maybe use an HID setup. Here's what I see a lot of on Ebay.

Headlight

But, I hear the HID bulbs don't work as well with certain reflectors.

Stay away from blue tinted bulbs and HID kits that don't come with lenses. You can read more about why here:

Light bulbs explained

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Yes, I've seen those and their many cousins. The problem is, because they're sealed beam replacements, there's no clean way to attach them to anything, most have plastic housings. Plus I'm not sure of the out put. It's got to have a glass lens and a metal reflector so I can maybe use an HID setup. Here's what I see a lot of on Ebay.

Headlight

But, I hear the HID bulbs don't work as well with certain reflectors.

You could epoxy or plastic weld some mounting tabs onto the housing, and throw a nice Silverstar or PIAA bulb in there, that oughta light the road well enough?

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Yes, I've seen those and their many cousins. The problem is, because they're sealed beam replacements, there's no clean way to attach them to anything, most have plastic housings. Plus I'm not sure of the out put. It's got to have a glass lens and a metal reflector so I can maybe use an HID setup. Here's what I see a lot of on Ebay.

Headlight

But, I hear the HID bulbs don't work as well with certain reflectors.

You could epoxy or plastic weld some mounting tabs onto the housing, and throw a nice Silverstar or PIAA bulb in there, that oughta light the road well enough?

That's true. I haven't heard good things about the Silverstars but a good bulb might do the trick. Even though the upper fairing is large, it all tapers down to the headlight opening. The RC30, RC45, NC30 and other race fairings have a wider section that flares out into what I call "hand fairings", the area right in front of the handle bars. Lots of room for any size light. I'm working with the basic twin light footprint of the R. A 7" is too big, a 5.75 might be as well but a 4.5 single is to small to put out the light I think I'm going to need. I have found some cool lights on line but some are 400-700 bucks, just to rich for my blood. I don't mind getting a less inexpensive housing as long as I can maybe "beef" it up to something usable.

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Looks like the tank and seat flow really well. Any clearance issues on the RC30 wheel to the 400 arm? I`ve got a 400 arm here and wondering what to do with it...

OK Tom, let's go over this just one last time :biggrin: ...it's a VFR750 arm, modified hawk spindle. Get VFR400 arm right out of the old noodle!

Funny you should write today cause I was thinking of you. I'm looking at the wheel alignment and chain alignment and it's working out way too well so of course I'm thinking something's wrong. Using the hole in the back/top of the subframe as center(I checked to the front and back tank mounts), I get dead on with the wheel. From there, it's about a 3-4mm shim of the front sprocket. I chose to remove material from inside the cush drive and cut down the cush rubbers(making them shorter not thinner, of course) to move the sprocket towards the wheel. What's got me 2nd guessing is I didn't have to sink the left side bearing like you to get the wheel over. Are our arms that different?

Geez, must be the wheel that`s throwing me, or that I had mine out mulling it over.....or too many paint fumes.....

I still think yours is from a 91-93. I seem to recall David Nelson using one on his and wondering why my 96 arm was so complicated.

I added aluminum to the back of the cush drive then machined the sprocket mounting points down to get the sprocket closer to the wheel.

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