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The Official Oil Thread


What Kind Of Oil Do You Use?  

1223 members have voted

  1. 1. Oil Type?

    • Synthetic
      825
    • Dino/Organic
      232
    • Blend
      168
  2. 2. Motorcycle or Generic oil?

    • Motorcycle Specific
      720
    • Major Brands
      457
    • Generic Automotive
      81
  3. 3. Which Brand?

    • Honda Branded
      185
    • Mobile One
      322
    • AMSOil
      109
    • Castrol
      109
    • Penzoil
      11
    • Lucus
      2
    • Havoline
      1
    • Quaker State
      4
    • Motul
      103
    • Valvoline
      33
    • Golden Spectro
      16
    • Rotella
      205
    • Other
      125


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I'm a long time Mobil 1 advocate and it has always tested at or new the top of every category, but I recently made the switch to

Shell Rotella T Synthetic based on it's test results(always right up there with MB 1) and lower cost the MB 1 also one of the few "C" rated oils out there which seem to be good for our bikes.

My MB Diesel, track bike and VFR all have Rotella T Synthetic in them! :thumbsup:

I also like the info on oil found here, they also have a great oil filter cross reference listed to and I now use only WalMart's SuperTech ST 7317 filters as they have superior filtering then most at the cheapest price(made by Champion)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

What exactly Shell Rotella T Synthetic did you use? I went to Wal-mart this morning but don't know which one for VFR. I appreciate your help.

As far as I know they only make one Shell Rotella T Synthetic and it's a 5w-40 in blue gallon jugs.

:wheel:

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Honda knows their sh*t... thin is in thick is out... If we analyze the actual numbers between 30 and 40 weight at operating temp of 212F we note the difference in viscosity is only 2.6 Cts... thats

That is really kind of my point related to 3k oil changes in general. A huge waste of money and an Excellant Marketing Champaign by the oil Co's. Let's just focus on the Honda VFR here. Honda Engineer

I use Mobil one 15w-50 fully synthetic (not motorcycle specific) in the VFR. I use Mobil One Racing 4T, 10w-40 fully synthetic in the CBR since it sees more high rpm use. Motorcycle Oil

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Guest sigsauer33

Does anyone see some reason why I should not switch to Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4-cycle motorcycle oil in the VFR? I would like to switch to Mobil One Racing 4T, 10w-40 fully synthetic, I am running standered oil now and would like to switch to synthetic, after reading articles on motor oil, I "should" be able to get better performance out of a synthetic oil but have not found an article on if I can switch from standered oil to syntheic any input?

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Does anyone see some reason why I should not switch to Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4-cycle motorcycle oil in the VFR? I would like to switch to Mobil One Racing 4T, 10w-40 fully synthetic, I am running standered oil now and would like to switch to synthetic, after reading articles on motor oil, I "should" be able to get better performance out of a synthetic oil but have not found an article on if I can switch from standered oil to syntheic any input?

Sport Rider Oil Test is a informative article on syntheic oils...

Part 1

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

Part 2

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index.html

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Guest sigsauer33

That was a good read, and I am now sure that I am going ot switch over to a syntheic oil but now I am not sure as to what brand/weight as well as will I have any problems switching over from a regular oil to a syntheic?

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That was a good read, and I am now sure that I am going ot switch over to a syntheic oil but now I am not sure as to what brand/weight as well as will I have any problems switching over from a regular oil to a syntheic?

Good luck on the "brand"..... :P , but no, you'll have no problem switching over............. :thumbsup:

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Scootr knew his motor oil for sure. I communicate with him rarely but it has been over a year since I heard from him.

Ok my memory is not worth spit but if I'm not mistaken Skootr, tested fuel and oil but not necessarily strictly related to diesels. He was however working on a white paper related to new lubricants required by the new stringent emission standards. If I'm mistaken I apologize.

One other point --- BTW I'm in awe of the motor oil experts on here but have one question.

Someone maybe BR mentioned that diesel engine oil was not the way to go since diesel engines had such low revs. I am of the notion that diesel engines have tons of torque and could require lubricants equal to any application.

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Scootr knew his motor oil for sure. I communicate with him rarely but it has been over a year since I heard from him.

Someone maybe BR mentioned that diesel engine oil was not the way to go since diesel engines had such low revs. I am of the notion that diesel engines have tons of torque and could require lubricants equal to any application.

That was BLS questioning that, but all these diesels oils Exceed all requirements for our bikes that Honda asks for and the good ones carry additive packages that resist shear which should be advantageous for our gear boxes!

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Motul Oil BARGAIN FINDER ALERT, EBAY ITEM #250188784507 seller treads0130

$4.25 per liter , was $68 shipped on 4 gallons or 1 full case of 4 qty , 4 litre bottles

19b7_1.jpg

Ok, my oil story again, I like Cheap, this moto sport is money $$$ intensive so I find deals,

1st I used Maxima Ultra Full syn which is top notch, heres why, I got a FREE case, is $15 per litre..bought a case of it for my supermoto because it had a very wide visocity range 5w50 , a couple bottles had thick sludge in em, like old school stp , not cool, so maxima rep send me another Free case with many extra goodies to make good on, this maxima stuff ran out, I then switched to mobil 1 racing 4t 10w40 at autozone at $9.99 per litre, is very good but man thats $30 plus $7.50 oem filter (try mail order from service Honda) too much $$$ for me, mr cheapo so I have been using Motul oil in my dirtbikes 15 years now, is racing level stuff, burns super clean, ebay I got over $500 of motul products for $50 , yes , Pu only in ohio from dealership, and sold my rbf600 brake fluid for $175 so I got a lifetime supply, many cases of Motul 2 stoke oil which I love and need for a $125 profit, yes take this stuff, many cases and you can make $125!

Also I realize this Motul 8 gallons I got now, is a syn blend, but I had an in- depth discussion with a Castrol rep at the dealer news mc show about oil and he said that most syn blends for mc oil are 98 or 99 percent syn, so almost a full syn, but the 1 or 2 % of added dino/petrol oil acts as a corrosion inhibitor only, rust or oxidation inhibitor only and that Castrol racing full syn vs castrol syn blend are minor differences, so this guy basically said the syn blends are as good as the full syn racing oils especially if you are just a street rider, bottom line is I like high quality but only if price is cheap, I am not brand specific on anything, high quality/low price , thanks Doug

Jump on this Motul at $4.25 per litre shipped, I got my 8 gallons so am good, 32 litres mobil 1 =$320 at autozone vs 32 litres Motul on ebay at $138 ****I think I will save the $182 .....one hundred eighty two dollars is a set of tires for me****

Edited by DougFromIndy
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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest gm_kaiser

Honda Brand, HP4 20-50 synthetic blend with moly. It's been 13 years now, no problems.(91' VFR ) I've moved around, hot and cold climates, no problems. I did try a cheaper brand once, ( purple something brand, and only cause there were no close honda dealers ) two days later I switched back - HUGE difference!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just read some news about Shell Rotella.

Shell Rotella now meets JASO MA spec since switching to the new CJ4 standard to help improve diesel emissions for ash and sulfur. The old Rotella formulation did not meet JASO MA specs due to its high ash content.

Info can be found here:

http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/viewtop...13e96d5e67e6976

http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ub...amp;Number=3450

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Just read some news about Shell Rotella.

Shell Rotella now meets JASO MA spec since switching to the new CJ4 standard to help improve diesel emissions for ash and sulfur. The old Rotella formulation did not meet JASO MA specs due to its high ash content.

I'm pretty sure the last 5- 1 gal. containers of Rotella T 5w-40 syn. were CI-4 Plus whatever that is? :unsure:

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Just read some news about Shell Rotella.

Shell Rotella now meets JASO MA spec since switching to the new CJ4 standard to help improve diesel emissions for ash and sulfur. The old Rotella formulation did not meet JASO MA specs due to its high ash content.

I'm pretty sure the last 5- 1 gal. containers of Rotella T 5w-40 syn. were CI-4 Plus whatever that is? :unsure:

I think CI4-plus is the older standard that SJ4 is replacing.

I don't think the new Rotella T 5w-40 Syn will be out yet for another month or so. But, I think new the 15w-40 dino is already out. :unsure:

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FYI

Most syn blends are on 10-20 % syn.

It has been thoroughly documented on the bobistheoilguy oil forum!

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I'm using dino until 6000 then switch to Elf synthetic.

10-50 summer and 10-40 winter.

Just a thought...do race oils require more frequent changes??

I think most race bikes get changed more frequently then street bikes.

Does it have to do with the content of the race oils?

I think 10-30 is now recommended for my CBR1KRR.

Edited by infonm
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I scored enough M1 at wallyworld to keep me going for quite awhile. for some reason they were discontinuing the stuff and had it all on sale. Bought 5 or 6 5 liter jugs for half price and they had something like a dozen qts marked at a buck. Cleaned em out. This is all gold cap 15-50 change 6 or 7 thousand mile intervals and the vfr has 50000+ now with zero problems. Long before the engine fails the rest of the bike will have fallen apart, stress cracks, corrosion etc.

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  • 1 month later...

Oil filter question:

I've got a left over OEM Honda filter from my 2004 VFR. Will it work with my 1995? It's a 15410-MCJ-003

And if I *can*, does that also mean that the rest of the filters in this thread will work as well, such as the Purolator Pure One PL14612 ?

I also have an oil filter washer from my 2004. Is that the same one as well?

Edited by opus
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Oil filter question:

I've got a left over OEM Honda filter from my 2004 VFR. Will it work with my 1995? It's a 15410-MCJ-003

And if I *can*, does that also mean that the rest of the filters in this thread will work as well, such as the Purolator Pure One PL14612 ?

I also have an oil filter washer from my 2004. Is that the same one as well?

Yes, check here!

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

I use WalMart SuperTech ST7317,

about $2. Made by Champion.

Recommended filters.

All have superior

filtering.

About 2.5 inches long.


  • Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
  • Mobil M1-108, about $12.
    Made by Champion.
  • Bosch 3300, about $6.
    Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.


  • Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
  • Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
    Made by Champion.
  • Bosch 3323, about $6.
    Made By Champion.
  • WalMart SuperTech ST7317,
    about $2. Made by Champion.

Buy these filters

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Oil filter question:

I've got a left over OEM Honda filter from my 2004 VFR. Will it work with my 1995? It's a 15410-MCJ-003

And if I *can*, does that also mean that the rest of the filters in this thread will work as well, such as the Purolator Pure One PL14612 ?

I also have an oil filter washer from my 2004. Is that the same one as well?

Yes, check here!

I did about an hour of searching last night on oil, filters, brake fluid etc, and ran across that site, but not that particular page. Very helpful. Thanks!

Oh, and I'll be taking back the $14 K&N filter I bought the other day. That'll get me 7 filters from Wal-Mart. hehe

Edited by opus
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  • 3 months later...

So, what's the big deal about Shell Rotella oils. What I remember about them is my old boss used to put it in his truck fleet diesel engines (semis, 1 tons and big concrete pump trucks) back in the 80's. I would think it's the least comaptible oil to put it in a bike that has a much higher RPM range engine (high speed shear??)??

Beck

95 VFR

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Repsol synthetic. Get a good deal on it so I buy it. :ots of it. I am also using a Scotts oil filter, the kind you clean instead of replace.

(Was using Rotella T in my race bike and had two bearings go tits-up. It was a SV650 motor, rear cylinder, connecting rod bearing and journal scorched. Also had to replace a Kawi 636 shifting drum after the use of Rotella T on the race track.)

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Guest schmumble

It's starting to "WIND UP"......... :P

boy you guys are gonna love this one....ive read countless oil and filter threads and out of all of the opinions ive read i went my own way. i wont bash another person for their choices of what they use or how often they do it. it is your bike and your choice! im sure most will disagree with the choices ive made. ive logged over 230,000 miles so i believe my opinion is valid. ive always used the cheapest oil avaliable...the cheaper the better...i never buy motorcycle spec type oil. good ol car oil has worked for the last 15 years and counting. castrol,valvoline,penzoil..ect..it really doesnt matter. ive always used 10w30 as all of the bikes are liquid cooled. filter wise ive used everything from honda to fram to wix...out of 230k miles and 15 years i have never had an oil related problem or issue....motor,clutch,transmission....nada! and yes alot of the oil is labeled energy conserving! it really DOES NOT make a diffrence. i remember when syn was a really big topic when i first started riding,most people said not to run it because you would have clutch problems out the wazoo. funny now 15 years later its posted as the best type of oil to use...lmao! same with filters...stay away from fram or the lesser types....lmao! i know the web sight that will be used to show many filters that were cut open to show the internals.....fact is ive used all of the ones listed and many others that arent. havent had a single issue with any of them regardless of the price paid.my current oil is quaker state and penzoil...10w30...yes its energy conserving..got them for about 1 dollar a quart on a clearance sale and my oil filters from ebay(wix)got them by the case(12)...a little over 5 dollars a piece delivered. thats about 9.50 an oil change compared to 30-50 that some people spend(higher if you take it to a dealer).im not trying to change anyones mind on what to use and what not to use...thats your choice....just want to bust any rumors that get posted oh so to often. thanks for readin this looooong winded post ....safe ridin...

this was a response to another thread here....i stand by it 100%....thanks baileyrock for the info on the cheaper filter...now ill go from 9.50 an oil change to about 6 bucks....ill keep others posted about anything that arises from the usage of cheap oil and filters...doubtful that any will ocurr... :fing02:

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Guest BlueFireIce

It's not that cheap oil/filters will cause the engine to go *boom*. I had an old VW Rabbit that only ever had the cheapest walmart oil and filters....After 200,000 miles it was still running fine without burning any oil. It's that higher end synthetic oils work even better, and produce more power, seen it on more than a few cars that were dynoed. It can also add life, or protect an engine when when the cheap or dino oil film would fail. Of course these are all extreme cases, but for the reduced friction and added peace of mind, I am fine with paying $10qt for my Royal Purple. :warranty:

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Guest black06vfr

I use AMSoil 10w-40. It seems to work very well, but here in Tucson, it has been getting pretty hot lately (102F on the way home today.) I am wondering if I should up the viscocity to like a 20W-40

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