The Official Oil Thread

[spud786]

THe only oil i ran longer than normal was 20w50 vtwin mobil 1, that was right at 4,000 mile , i could have gone longer, maybe another 1000 mile. The diesil oils, 15w40 wil go 2500/3000 very easily.

I dont recommend using 8,000 mile intervals unless your following the owners manual operatiing procedures. That means being in 6th gear by 35 mph

8,000 mike intervals should not be used for anything ridden track like.

Edited November 12, 2010 by spud786

[Guest Ziggen4u]

Ok given the economic climate among other things I instead put the money towards just changing the oil before winter, sans filter. For what it's worth the oil (M14T) still felt serviceable at 3,200 miles.

I still have the sample ready to ship if anyone wants to pick up the tab and find out how M14T does at 3,200 miles in a gear driven cam bike. :biggrin:

[KevininAtlanta]

I just read some interesting brand cycle oil comparisons.

Sorry, to bring it up again and even more so if this info.

Is already available:http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

[Guest dendron]

I'm a long time Mobil 1 advocate and it has always tested at or new the top of every category, but I recently made the switch to

Shell Rotella T Synthetic based on it's test results(always right up there with MB 1) and lower cost the MB 1 also one of the few "C" rated oils out there which seem to be good for our bikes.

My MB Diesel, track bike and VFR all have Rotella T Synthetic in them! :thumbsup:

I also like the info on oil found here, they also have a great oil filter cross reference listed to and I now use only WalMart's SuperTech ST 7317 filters as they have superior filtering then most at the cheapest price(made by Champion)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Dittoes on the Rotella T and Wally World filter, BR. Good stuff for reasonable money!

[Rush2112]

Maybe it's a gear driven cam thing but no more cheap oils for me.

I agree the rotella 15w40 is about the worst shifting , for an oil that get so much glamore talk

The good Rotella T that gets the sweet talk is the full synthetic 5w-40, not the 15w-40.

[Baileyrock]

I'm a long time Mobil 1 advocate and it has always tested at or new the top of every category, but I recently made the switch to

Shell Rotella T Synthetic based on it's test results(always right up there with MB 1) and lower cost the MB 1 also one of the few "C" rated oils out there which seem to be good for our bikes.

My MB Diesel, track bike and VFR all have Rotella T Synthetic in them! :thumbsup:

I also like the info on oil found here, they also have a great oil filter cross reference listed to and I now use only WalMart's SuperTech ST 7317 filters as they have superior filtering then most at the cheapest price(made by Champion)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Dittoes on the Rotella T and Wally World filter, BR. Good stuff for reasonable money!

:fing02: Actually I switched back to Mobil 1 15w-50 in the track bike and VFR, the Benz is still on the Rotella T 5w-40. :biggrin:

[BusyLittleShop]

:fing02: Actually I switched back to Mobil 1 15w-50 in the track bike and VFR, the Benz is still on the Rotella T 5w-40. :biggrin:

Mercy Bailey... do you know what the viscosity of Mobil 1 15 50 is at 104ºF start up and 212ºF operating temps???

[Baileyrock]

:fing02: Actually I switched back to Mobil 1 15w-50 in the track bike and VFR, the Benz is still on the Rotella T 5w-40. :biggrin:

Mercy Bailey... do you know what the viscosity of Mobil 1 15 50 is at 104ºF start up and 212ºF operating temps???

No Larry, I don't! :491:

[BusyLittleShop]

No Larry, I don't! :491:

Quote Mobil 1 15 50 synthetic oil...

At 40ºC / 104ºF viscosity = 125

At 100ºC / 212ºF viscosity = 17.4

Quote Mobil 1 10W 30 synthetic oil...

At 40ºC / 104ºF viscosity = 62

At 100ºC / 212ºF viscosity = 10

As you can see the viscosity of 125 is too thick to lubricate your

engine properly during warm up and the viscosity of 17.4 builds up too

much pressure during operating temps... a better choice would be the

10W 30 because now during start up the viscosity is 62 still too thick

to lubricate your engine properly but lesser than the viscosity of

125... but heres the important part at operating temps you have the

desired viscosity of 10... a viscosity of 10 flows more than the

viscosity of 17.4 so you're more at the target of the engineers 10psi

per 1,000 rpm... if we agree that flow lubricates your engine and not

pressure than the 10 30 makes more sense... I understand if you can't

bring yourself to trust 10 30... but...

Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the right thickness at the

normal operating temperature of the engine at the oil temperature of

100C or 212 F the boiling point of water...

I think we agree that most motorcycle designers thermostat their water

cooled engines to run at 212ºF water temperature with an oil thickness

of the viscosity of 10. This is the real world viscosity of the oil...

not the same weight listed in the manual or advertised on the oil

can... we should learn the difference between those numbers as they

are confusing... I want to talk about oil thickness at start up and

operating temps as listed by the oil company themselves and not oil

can labeling...

I know this is a very difficult topic to comprehend... Everybody

including good mechanic friends think they understand engine oils...

but most of what I hear about viscosity is the opposite of the

truth... I hear all the time that a 0 30 has a viscosity of 0 at room

temp and a viscosity of 30 at operating temp but this is the opposite

of the truth... fact is a 0 30 weight oil has a viscosity of 10 at

operating temp (212ºF) and a viscosity of 56 at room temp... A

viscosity of 56 is too thick to lubricate our engines properly... it

builds pressure at the expense of flow...

The confusion occurs because people think in terms of the oil thinning

when it gets hot... They think this thinning with heat is the problem

with motor oil... It would be more correct to think that oil thickens

when it cools to room temperature and I believe THIS is the problem.

If we believe that 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup before

warm up and if we are interested in engine longevity I think we should

concentrate our attention at reducing engine wear at startup...

In a perfect world we would have an oil viscosity of 10 at start up and a

oil viscosity of 10 at operating temps but so far no oil meets that

requirement...

[Baileyrock]

Thanks Larry, I always enjoy learning something new! :fing02:

Good stuff! :beer:

BR

[VFRSuperfreak]

As you can see the viscosity of 125 is too thick to lubricate your

engine properly during warm up and the viscosity of 17.4 builds up too

much pressure during operating temps... a better choice would be the

10W 30 because now during start up the viscosity is 62 still too thick

to lubricate your engine properly but lesser than the viscosity of

125... but heres the important part at operating temps you have the

desired viscosity of 10... a viscosity of 10 flows more than the

viscosity of 17.4 so you're more at the target of the engineers 10psi

per 1,000 rpm... if we agree that flow lubricates your engine and not

pressure than the 10 30 makes more sense... I understand if you can't

bring yourself to trust 10 30... but...

/edit

Very nice and spot on Sir!. I'm chiming in here to say that all these points simply aren't stressed enough, and one wonders of the counter-intuitive numbering of viscosity indexes isn't a plot to keep it all fogged up and maintain the unwashed following mechanic's and advert's instructions. Instead of realizing the basic dynamics of any fluid at diff. temps.

Engines and performance being a male phallic science and all, dudes continue to flock to the "higher the number the better".

All additives accounted for and all refineries having equal access to recent science, I propose we should coin a new acronym in the likes of ATGATT; JCTDO. (just change the damned oil). -And ride.

Cheers.

[spud786]

Here's another tid bit

I ran pure Pao 5w40 with 2000 miles oil changes on another bike, I noticed cam lobe wear at 25,000 miles, they didnt look as sharp. The key indicator though was a little scatch in one of my lobe peaks that had completely disappeared. Only way for that to happen is wearing down flush.

IMO, 30 weight which is basically what a 5w40 is, or after 500 to 1000 miles. Its not strong enough film base to prevent lobe wear. IN essence I believe the 10w40 is a better weight overall, or even a 15w40 in a pao type oil. Even these oils can drop a grade by 2000 miles. A little shear, alittle fuel dilution I can see a 10w30 in the 20's with not too much effort.

Just too add, I could only hit 98 mph with that 5w40, with 20w50 amsoil or motul 15w50 I could hit 102mph full throttle pegged. A gain up 4 mph additional top end .

There was more glide with the heavy weight, seems to me

Edited January 8, 2011 by spud786

[BusyLittleShop]

The key indicator though was a little scatch in one of my lobe peaks that had completely disappeared.

Unless you got calibrated eye balls good for thousands of an inch or not... the only way to record lobe wear is with a micrometer...

[SamW]

Golden Spectro 10w-40 and Honda Filters, hard to argue with a 90k miles '86 VFR700f that still looks new on the inside. Changed the clutch at 82k miles, went back with all Honda parts.

[mhoey]

Hi guys

After a bit of search on the Interenet I thought I should ask you fellow VFR- riders.

Any reviews on Royal Purple oil's from members of VFRD.com - I only found one post about it in your forum - anyone tried it for a longer period. I have a chance to try it on my Viffer now, but would like to know if you have anything to say about the quality/ experience of the product before I says thanks to the offer?

I might be a cheap dog, but I prefer at least to hit the 200.000 mark on the odometer and not ending up replacing rod end bearings somewhere in the bush of Brazil due to bad oil ;-)

Royal Purple oil: Royal Purple

Should anyone come down to Santiago on vacation/ business trip etc. let me know!

All the best from Santiago de Chile.

mhoey

With all intake valves to the tight side after a valve clearance check - cams are off!

[spud786]

The key indicator though was a little scatch in one of my lobe peaks that had completely disappeared.

Unless you got calibrated eye balls good for thousands of an inch or not... the only way to record lobe wear is with a micrometer...

The pit dissapearance was the first clue, at 25,000 mile, by 40,000 mile the cam profiles had obviously changed, much rounder. I did not mic , as I had no intention of replacing or needed to know exactly how much wear was there.

This bike sustained alot of 8000, to 10,000 rpm riding for extended periods of time, mainly with 5w40 Full mc synthetic. A heavier oil film probably would have cut that Lobe wear alot. I was running 2000 mile oil changes.

[Guest Westn]

After a bit of research and looking into the links provided, Ive decided on:

OEM oil filter- Sounds like its a premium filter, even though a premium price. I also heard the bypass valve opens at 7psi to help lube during cold starts, compared to some others (like Mobil 1) that open at 25psi. Doesnt mean a lot to me but seems like a big difference.

Motul 300V 10w40 oil- Sounds like its the best you can buy, again at a premium (premium) price. Read something about 10w40 not being recommender for motorcycles with a wet clutch but in the Honda manual 10w40 is recommended for my climate.

[Switchblade]

After a bit of research and looking into the links provided, Ive decided on:

OEM oil filter- Sounds like its a premium filter, even though a premium price. I also heard the bypass valve opens at 7psi to help lube during cold starts, compared to some others (like Mobil 1) that open at 25psi. Doesnt mean a lot to me but seems like a big difference.

Motul 300V 10w40 oil- Sounds like its the best you can buy, again at a premium (premium) price. Read something about 10w40 not being recommender for motorcycles with a wet clutch but in the Honda manual 10w40 is recommended for my climate.

+1 and sometimes you can find 3 filter pack on FleaBay and AMAZON for around $13.00 !!!!!!!!!!

[BusyLittleShop]

A heavier oil film probably would have cut that Lobe wear alot. I was running 2000 mile oil changes.

Negative... it's not the flim but the additives that protect lodes... until you mic the cams you're just guessing about wear...

[Ranger77]

Back in May I went on a 6 day trip and filled the vfr up with Rotella T6 for the first time without even putting test miles on the engine with it. Went through 5 states with varying temps and lots of gear shifting. Didn't use a drop of it. I was able to snatch up 8 jugs of it @ $14.99 a pop. That's a lot better than paying $26 retail. I plan on sending off the old oil for testing.

[spud786]

A heavier oil film probably would have cut that Lobe wear alot. I was running 2000 mile oil changes.

Negative... it's not the flim but the additives that protect lodes... until you mic the cams you're just guessing about wear...

Guessing about the amount of wear I agree , there was wear, I just dont know how much .

When steep squared edge cam lobes, become very rounded to tell by the eyeball, its pretty easy to notice there is wear.

I ran high end group 4 synthetic in that bike for the 40,000 mile I had it , inoted at 27 ,000 mile there were signs of lobe wear, by 40,000 mile it was obvious in the rounding.

Edited June 16, 2011 by spud786

[vfrjim2002]

Back in May I went on a 6 day trip and filled the vfr up with Rotella T6 for the first time without even putting test miles on the engine with it. Went through 5 states with varying temps and lots of gear shifting. Didn't use a drop of it. I was able to snatch up 8 jugs of it @ $14.99 a pop. That's a lot better than paying $26 retail. I plan on sending off the old oil for testing.

[spud786]

Back in May I went on a 6 day trip and filled the vfr up with Rotella T6 for the first time without even putting test miles on the engine with it. Went through 5 states with varying temps and lots of gear shifting. Didn't use a drop of it. I was able to snatch up 8 jugs of it @ $14.99 a pop. That's a lot better than paying $26 retail. I plan on sending off the old oil for testing.

When the vfr was new , after the first 300 mile dump, I ran 5w40 rotella, the oil at 1100 mile intervals till about 7,000 miles total.

There are better oils to run and a hole lot cheaper , I also had the rotella tested at 1100 miles, degraded about like a 10w40 car oil in the vfr.

[n1tmtu37]

Well... from reading what I could before my eyes started to bleed., it seems that it doesn't really matter what I put in my (new to me) 05. I thought that this would point me in the right direction but it seems like I could throw a dart at a wall with brands and viscocities on it and be pretty safe

[Dutchy]

do let us know what you ended up with :-)