Darth Bling

Thanks for the update Keith! I was actually just thinking about Rich a few days ago. Looks like I'm going to have to do a Mary's Peak ride this summer.

There's no real performance advantage to the 1100XX shock. It's a tad longer at 320mm, so that would be nice. Besides that, you would need to upgrade the valving in the XX shock at minimum in order to see any improvement. Since the 6th gens use a 315mm long shock you are kind of out of luck when it comes to options. I put a blackbird shock on my 6th Gen and it's was pretty much the way Jamie describes it. It was nice that it was a tad longer, and it was nice that the spring was a tad bit stiffer. Otherwise, it was the same POS crap shock that the OEM 6th Gen has. I eventually upgraded to a full Elka shock, so I sold the shock to Silver788. He found that the shock was a nice improvement for his 5th Gen since the Blackbird shock with its stiffer spring supports his weight better than the stock VFR shock.

:comp13:

Tim knows that. He's just trying to be funny. Try harder next time, Tim... :dry: Ha ha ha, that's funny stuff right there! BTW, the bike looks good Loni!

Philomath, OR is 95 miles from the WA/OR border I-5. Mary's Peak is another 20 miles past Philomath. If you're trying to make good time, I'd suggest slabbing it down I-5 from Seattle.

You should be cruising on the balls of your feet. You should not have your heels on the pegs. There isnt really an adjustment for the brake pedal. You could adjust the master cylinder and brake switch but you would just be compensating for poor foot placement. I have big feet as well. Actually, there's quite of bit of adjustment in the rear brake pedal. Many of us who've gone with lower foot pegs (Buell or BLS blocks) have had to lower the pedal. :idea3: Gunzer, check out these post for instructions on how to adjust your brake pedal. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...mp;#entry215329 <sarcasim>That's news to me about cruising on the balls of my feet. Guess I've been doing it wrong for the last 40k miles. </sarcasim> Seriously though, he can put his foot anywhere he wants if he just out cruising. If he's out in the twisties, then yes, definitely get those feet up! :blink:

I will see you at the cafe at for lunch. Portlanders, we should probably leave around 9:15 if we want to get there in time for lunch at 11:00.

Yeah, you could of at least picked up the place before you took pictures of your filthy floor... :blink:

There's no need to remove the tank completely. Just have to prop it up. Taking the air box off the bike is pretty straight-forward. The only hard part is getting the MAP sensor unpluged underneath the airbox.

Motorcycle are excempt from DEQ testing in the Oregon. The only reason you would need to take a bike down to a DEQ testing center is to get the VIN inspected, but you can have that done at the DMV when you're getting plates for it.

Cool. Pictural insturctions are the best. :warranty: I do wonder though why he removed the metal screen just to reinstall it later. I'd probably just skip that step and leave the metal screen in place. I may have to do something similar to this soon.

Kuryakin makse a nice looking voltmeter: http://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=harley&ci=2695 Some pics of it installed on my bike: In has a light sensor built, so it brighter in the daylight but dims enough at night not to blind you.

Ha ha ha. I was just over at Tim's place this evening visiting and I made some off hand comment that he should machine the clamps out of magnesium.

So wiring wise - was it a snip it and reverse it job? MD No. All Jes did was replace the radiator fan with one from the VTR. The wiring stays the same.

Member JoeW on the forum can get you Honda parts. His prices are just as good as Service Honda's... FWIW

That wouldn't work. If you flip the fan over, the blades are still at the same angle and will continue to push air into the engine compartment. All you would accomplish is making the fan less efficient, which may actually be a good thing especially at low speeds... :rolleyes:

Excellent post Jes. I'm going to have to have to perform this swap myself. :fing02: I've found that the VFR's cooling system works very well when you're stopped. But, if you're riding around between 10-20 mph, the radiator fan loses all of its efficiency since it has to push against the wind. But, once you get up to highway speeds, the wind easily overpowers the fan and the bike cools down. When I was in Billings, MT last summer, I was putting around town at about 15 mph. It was about 95°F out and I was currently running water with waterwetter (good stuff!). Well, my bike overheated, bad. I was seeing temperatures over 250°F and my VFR was puking radiator fluid everywhere. When I got on the interstate to head back to my hotel room, the temperature of the bike was hovering around 238°F as I was running an easy 85 mph. I refilled the bike later than night after it cooled down and i had lost 1/2 of my radiator fluid. There were a bunch of Goldwings there too and their bike's have the same stupid radiator setup that the VFR has too, and they were all having overheating problems just like me. Stupid Honda....

SWEET!!! I just scored a set of fairings on ebay! And, it's even in my favorite color for the CBR. :happy: Ok, ok, I have to admit, I really like the white color scheme too. Oh, and I just saw the new '08 flat black color last weekend, very hot! :beer: So, here's the story: I've been trolling around ebay looking for parts for my new CBR. I found a complete set of blue fairings on ebay about a week and a half ago, so I put a bid in for them. Well, I thought I was doing good until the last hour of the auction when the price suddenly shot up to $1000. Too rich for my blood, but I continued to watch just for fun. And to my amazement, within the last minute, the price got pushed up to $1500! :ohmy: And that doesn't include the $200 the seller was charging for shipping. Well, that was quite a disappointment. I really don’t want to spend that much money for a complete set of fairings, but I continued to search ebay. And, to my delight, I found another set of blue fairings. So I put down an opening bid of $250 and watched it with great anticipation. :thumbsup: You see, this auction was unique because the seller didn't list it correctly. He didn't put any of the common search words in the title like bodywork, plastics, or fairings. He also left out the 600RR part and simply put RR6 in the title. :warrenty: I had high hopes for this auction since it didn't have much visibility. A few people did find it and the price eventually got up to about $510 within the last 10 minutes. With exactly one minute left, I decide to put in a bid of $850 for it. And, too my surprise, I got an error saying I didn't meet the seller's buyer requirements. WTF!! :unsure: I had placed a bid earlier without any trouble, but now I don’t meet the requirements. I try a few more times to get my bid in, but each time I get the same error. And then I realize the error says that I don’t meet the requirements because I don’t have a paypal account. But I do have a paypal account! :pissed: And that’s when I see the link that say, “Already have a paypal account? Click here to link it to ebay.” I click on the link as fast as I can and feverously type my paypal info into the black fields and hit submit. I get a congratulation message and then I click the take-me-back-to-were-I-was” button. But instead it takes me to my paypal account and not back to the auction! Luckily, I had another window open that I was using to place my bid with. So, I click the back button on that and then hit the confirm bid button and quick as I can. And what do I see: "You’re the highest bidder! Time left: 1 sec." It took me a few seconds to get over the shock of what just happened, but I had won the auction, literally, without a second to spare. That was the longest, most stressful one minute of my ebay buying career. :goofy:

Just talk to the salvage yard today and I'll be heading down tomorrow morning to pick it up! :thumbsup: The owner of the salvage yard said he's been completely bombarded by people trying to buy the bike. He's said he's turn away about a dozen people so far with cash in hand. He he he... :D

I'm getting it for $4300. It's just a tad outside of my price range, but it does have clear title. The last '07 CBR600 the salvage yard had was $3400, so basicially I'm paying an extra $1000 just for a clear title. I figure I'll be down $5500 or so once I get it all fixed up and looking nice again. My plan is to put superbike handlebars on my VFR and use it for touring duty. Daily rides up into the mountains and track days will be reserved for the CBR now. :D

I've been looking for quite a while now at getting another bike to accompany by VFR. The main reason behind my decision is that I'm afraid that I'm eventually going to crash my VFR at the track. And, if I were to do that, I'd be hurting pretty bad. The VFR is my only bike and if it got wrecked, I'd have to spend a ton of money to fix it back up. But, if I had another bike (especially a bike I could buy sharkskinz for), I wouldn't have to worry about that. :salesman: So, I've been trolling around WERA boards and my local racing forums looking for a track bike, but so far nothings come close to my price range. I did check out an RC51 here locally that a guy raced and was getting rid of it because he already had two other race bikes. His current bike was the GSXR1000, but he just picked up a salvaged Ducati 1098 and was getting ready to convert it to track (hence why he was selling the RC51 to pay upgrades for the 1098). Now, this got me thinking: if I could find a wrecked bike from a salvage yard, I could put it back together and I'd have me a track bike. Ever since the 2007 CBR600RR came out, I've been drooling over it. I've heard nothing but good things about it and it looks fantastic. Unfortunately, I just never could justify spending that much money for a new bike. And, even used ones are going for $7000+. But, if I could find a wreck/salvaged CBR... So, I've been in contact with this salvage yard and they just got a 2007 CBR600RR in with a clean title. Most of the damage is superficial. The only major damage is a bent subframe, missing exhaust pipe, and missing right headlight. I’ll be picking the bike up next Wednesday from the salvage yard. Once I get it fixed back up, I'll post some pictures of it on the forum! :thumbsup:

Nice work Bailey! :thumbsup: The only thing I have to add is this: the longer 3.5" filters are a lot easier to install on the 6th gen if you've removed the evap canister.

Across the top of the chart is spring leignth, I think the F4i shock uses a 7" spring so the 1095- would be the length you need (7.1"). Ohlins mostly uses Neuton Meters, which is real close to kg but not exact. Call Ohlins USA at 828-692-4525 and order a 1095-79/190 if in fact the F4i uses a 7" spring. That's a 7.1"x 2.250" x 1085lb spring! :thumbsup: NM to KG = nm divided 9.845(there abouts)= kg kg to lbs = kg x 56.1= lbs Looks like nm to lbs would be: nm x 5.71= lbs! :thumbsup: I can't speak for the F4i, but I know the free length of a 929 rear spring is 6 7/16 inches. So you should probably get the 1092 ohlins spring (6.7 inches). You'll end up with an extra 6.7 mm of preload though since the Ohlins spring is a tad bit longer than the stock 929 spring.

Yeah, turn 4 is really tight now. That's going to a be great place to sit and watch the action. I perdict lots of crashes right there. And for those of you who might be a bit confused. In my blog entry, I use the offical PIR numbering for the turns. But for bike, since they skip the chicane at the front, the turns are numbered differently. So, when I say turn 7 in my blog entry, it's really turn 4 for bikes.