Jump to content

Adding Superbike Bars To Your Bike


FotoMoto
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

I've had A LOT of hassles with the ST1100 throttle cables on my 5th gen during the install of my Spiegler LSL superbike bars. The ST cables are about 2.75" longer in overall length then the stock cables, but because they are from a carbureted bike they have a different length of free cable extended out from the cable sleeve. I eventually had to bend the cable mount on the throttle body assembly to get them to work... and they didn't offer enough increase in length for the bars I installed so a thorough re-route was necessary to get them to work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Guest VFRMikey

Just finished putting a set of LSL Spiegler handlebars on my '07 RWB. Major PIA but end result works well.Waiting for a set of Galfer braided lines to show up to complete the upgrade..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Corndogs

I went a little different route. I used my 1 1/8 bars ( renthal fat bars ) Used KTM Mounts. I then installed rox risers, 2004 super hawk controls, Honda ST1300 cables and I'm so comfortable. It only cost me $100

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just finished putting a set of LSL Spiegler handlebars on my '07 RWB. Major PIA but end result works well.Waiting for a set of Galfer braided lines to show up to complete the upgrade.

Hi. New forum member, first post, etc. I have the same model '07 VFR for a few

weeks now. I planned on either Helibars or the LSL kit, and decided to

try the LSL kit because it gives a bit more upright position. I just

finished the conversion and I agree it was a colossal PITA. Figuring

out where to drill the holes in the handlebar for the switch housings

took a while. There was very little clearance between the clutch hose

banjo bolt and the fork cap. There was just barely enough room for the

grip and housing to fit without the banjo bolt touching. On the

throttle side, I had to drill the hole more toward the center compared

to stock, because the new bar ends are flush. The stock bar ends allow

7 mm of overhang of the throttle tube over the bar end. If you're on

the fence between the LSL kit and the Helibars, figure out what 4

hours of your time is worth just to drill those holes correctly and

subtract it from the price of the Helibars (pre-drilled).

The extended throttle cables I bought from Convertibars were

problematic. The housing is long enough, but the inner wire is too

short. I just barely got it to work by moving the LH nut on the top

cable end to the other side, and taking all of the slack out of the

adjuster near the grip. It's extremely tight with no slack. I wonder

if he sent me cables for a carbureted bike.

Another thing I didn't realize before buying the kit: The handlebar is

a smaller diameter than the factory clip-ons. This makes the control

mounting loose and sloppy. I had to put some rubber under the clutch

and brake lever clamps to keep them from sliding around. The switch

housings are still floppy but probably fixable with more rubber

shims.

I just finished it up last night. To be honest, it feels very odd

to have dirt bike handlebars on a sport bike. Wide and disconnected.

I think I should have bought the Helibars, instead.

Here's the stock cockpit for comparison:

001.JPG

Taking the top triple off to reroute the hoses:

IMG_20130917_185912.jpg

Figuring out where to drill the switchpod locator holes. You can see how close the clutch line banjo bolt is to the fork tube:

DSCN1143%255B1%255D.JPG

The new look:

IMG_20130918_230831.JPG

Side view:

IMG_20130918_225621.JPG

Edited by sodapop
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Why did you take the top of the triple tree off to reroute hoses? On second thought, that sounds easier than disconnecting the throttle cable at the linkage and bleeding the clutch out like I did. I used 919 bars which are a touch higher but narrower as well. Only advantage is they are predrilled for a Honda.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why did you take the top of the triple tree off to reroute hoses? On second thought, that sounds easier than disconnecting the throttle cable at the linkage and bleeding the clutch out like I did. I used 919 bars which are a touch higher but narrower as well. Only advantage is they are predrilled for a Honda.

I had to pull the throttle cables out of the housing either way, because I used the longer cables from Motion Pro. By pulling the top triple, it was dirt simple to move the switchpod wiring and hydraulic hoses to the outside of the fork tubes. I couldn't think of a downside to it. It saved me from bleeding the front brake, but because of the other stuff around it I couldn't figure out how to move the clutch hose without disconnecting it from the MC. Someone smarter than me might be able to avoid bleeding both.

So, are you happy with the handlebars instead of the clipons? I'm still on the fence. My wrists are happier, at least.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

"Corndogs" that modification is off the hook!

one of my main aim is to get this bike of mine the way i wanted. Is change the handle bar hight.

so after research on this forum and youtube i went out and ordered, AMB straight out of Germany, looks like a straight competitor of LSL

post-28065-0-52181400-1379767314.jpg

cost me around about $300 aud landed.

post-28065-0-95378900-1379767366.jpg

ABM Superbike kit and bars to go with it.

i havnt had the chance to install them yet, hopefully after school holidays i have a little more "me" time

here what they look like

post-28065-0-20059200-1379767430.jpg

does any one know what setting i should have the Tourque wrench ?

lastly is there a way that i can you the old oem bar ends ?

ive taken them off but the thing inside the oem bar ends are still inside.

post-28065-0-52181400-1379767314.jpg

post-28065-0-95378900-1379767366.jpg

post-28065-0-20059200-1379767430.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

That's high !!! Gotta get those's throttle cables off of the tank thou .....


N2v take a longer bolt that matches the bar end bolt and use it to push the insert backwards to release it .


Here's a great video ..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4mgx_W6lYs


N2v it looks like you have to use ABM bar ends any way ....


vfr800-02-top-yoke-adaptor-l.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I finally found time to post what I had to do to add superbike bars to my bike. I went with 50mm Outlaw risers, Renthal highway bars (756 high bend) and ST1100 throttle cables. My buddy has a killer shop in his basement and he helped me along the way.

We started by using his drill press to hollow out a little bit of the underside of the triple tree so the washers for the risers would sit flush. We played with various ways of re-routing cables to see what would fit. We quickly realized the ST1100 cables would not fit. I researched and found that ST1300 cables would probably be too short too since I needed roughly 5 more inches to reach. I couldn't find anything definitive online as to what cables might fit. My buddy told me of a huge motorcycle salvage yard about an hour away. After spending around 1.5 hours whittling thru endless bins of cables, shelves and trailers, I found what I was looking for. I'm not sure exactly what the cables were off of since all that was there was the throttle housing and the cables. My best guess is that they are off a Honda Shadow as the cable ends were chromed and not black. They were right around 5.25 inches longer in total with the free end roughly the same size as stock.

Once we had the throttle cables in place, we found out the front brake line was too short to reach. After searching through his parts and contemplating what to do, we found a solution. If I removed one of the brackets on the front housing, I was able to get the little bit of slack that was needed to be able to go from lock to lock without any binding. We also had to reroute the clutch cable to give some extra slack there too.

I reused the stock bar ends after he put them his lathe and machined them down a little to fit in the end. I went to Lowes and bought new bar end bolts and some bushings that would screw into some rubber hose that I found at Advance Auto. I used that around the bar end bolts. That enabled me to tighten up the bar ends while expanding the hose to take up the slack inside.

I did have an issue with the master cylinders from the clutch and brake hitting the windshield. I was able to reposition them in such a way that they would barely clear if I removed the black pieces from the inside of the windshield. A small price to pay for the tradeoff of comfort.

I'm loving the overall feel of these. Its more comfortable on long trips. I did 2,100 miles in 5 days with this mod. Although I had some pain in my writs eventually, they were much better than the heli-bars they replaced. They also offer more leverage for the tight roads due to being a little wider than the heli's. It's like I have a new VFR!

Underside Triple

Top Triple

Overhead view

Close up, Risers

underside brake cable

Clutch cable

Throttle, brake cables

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer

Walking through the dealer last weekend and ran across these, CB1000R. Would make a nice mount for those with the RC51/954/929/CBR forks. Offset appears to be the same among them all.

IMG_20131116_162327_286_zps007a27fe.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Fotomoto for this thread. My VFR has been gathering dust the last couple of years but I miss riding it so I'm doing a bunch of standard maintenance and your bar upgrade this winter.

Found lots of 1 1/8" bar clamps but with some searching found these ("Std" which I hope means 7/8") Applied Racing mounts, Renthal bars, bar ends, and grips all at BTOsports for $140. Will have to see if new cables are necessary, that's ok I've got all winter to get this done.

s0bj.jpg

http://www.btosports.com/p/APBMHB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
I used risers off of a motocross bike, about $20 from ebay. I think they were off an '80s Kawasaki.

Added some nice stainless buttonhead bolts


Risers


  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally made some progress on new handlebar install. I ended up with the Renthal Streetfighter model, I like their orientation in space, might be a little too wide for me, though. I guess I can take an inch of each side if necessary.

xkzo.jpg

7ubq.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.