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sodapop

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  • Location
    Central Texas
  • In My Garage:
    2008 WR250R/X
    2005 DL650

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  1. I had to pull the throttle cables out of the housing either way, because I used the longer cables from Motion Pro. By pulling the top triple, it was dirt simple to move the switchpod wiring and hydraulic hoses to the outside of the fork tubes. I couldn't think of a downside to it. It saved me from bleeding the front brake, but because of the other stuff around it I couldn't figure out how to move the clutch hose without disconnecting it from the MC. Someone smarter than me might be able to avoid bleeding both. So, are you happy with the handlebars instead of the clipons? I'm still on the fence. My wrists are happier, at least.
  2. Hi. New forum member, first post, etc. I have the same model '07 VFR for a few weeks now. I planned on either Helibars or the LSL kit, and decided to try the LSL kit because it gives a bit more upright position. I just finished the conversion and I agree it was a colossal PITA. Figuring out where to drill the holes in the handlebar for the switch housings took a while. There was very little clearance between the clutch hose banjo bolt and the fork cap. There was just barely enough room for the grip and housing to fit without the banjo bolt touching. On the throttle side, I had to drill the hole more toward the center compared to stock, because the new bar ends are flush. The stock bar ends allow 7 mm of overhang of the throttle tube over the bar end. If you're on the fence between the LSL kit and the Helibars, figure out what 4 hours of your time is worth just to drill those holes correctly and subtract it from the price of the Helibars (pre-drilled). The extended throttle cables I bought from Convertibars were problematic. The housing is long enough, but the inner wire is too short. I just barely got it to work by moving the LH nut on the top cable end to the other side, and taking all of the slack out of the adjuster near the grip. It's extremely tight with no slack. I wonder if he sent me cables for a carbureted bike. Another thing I didn't realize before buying the kit: The handlebar is a smaller diameter than the factory clip-ons. This makes the control mounting loose and sloppy. I had to put some rubber under the clutch and brake lever clamps to keep them from sliding around. The switch housings are still floppy but probably fixable with more rubber shims. I just finished it up last night. To be honest, it feels very odd to have dirt bike handlebars on a sport bike. Wide and disconnected. I think I should have bought the Helibars, instead. Here's the stock cockpit for comparison: Taking the top triple off to reroute the hoses: Figuring out where to drill the switchpod locator holes. You can see how close the clutch line banjo bolt is to the fork tube: The new look: Side view:
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