How do you know when it's time...

[Guest FiGGaH]

I've got 38k miles on my 2004 VFR now and on the way to work today I was noticing that the rides seems a bit bouncy. Not stiff bouncy, but as if the suspension was giving way too much.

How do you know when your rear shock needs replacement? What's the normal lifespan of a shock and what are the consequences of neglect? :beer: The wife might not be too happy if I order an Ohlins, but if I have to *wink wink* I will. hehe.

[Darth Bling]

Great question. I've wondered too about this. :lurk:

[Guest]

Nobody here can answer this question? Or does everybody else simply upgrade without the stocker wearing out?

[Hobie1dog]

Nobody here can answer this question? Or does everybody else simply upgrade without the stocker wearing out?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sounds like a perfectly good excuse to upgrade and trick that thing out. You can't show up at a VFR event with a bike with your mileage and a stock shock. You would be shunned by everyone there :beer:

[Guest]

Sounds like a perfectly good excuse to upgrade and trick that thing out.  You can't show up at a VFR event with a bike with your mileage and a stock shock.  You would be shunned by everyone there :beer:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If I'm not shunned for that, then I will be shunned for how slow I ride in the twisties. :D

Somebody has to know the answers to these questions. :deer:

[Guest]

I just replaced my stock shock with another less used stock shock at 24,500 miles. I can tell the difference. The preload is not set as high to maintain the ride height now.

Some folks swear that after 15,000 miles the stock shock is done. I bet three or four really intense track days would probably push it past it's usefulness. On the other hand, I got 25k out of mine. I could have still ridden a couple of thousand miles more.

Depends on how you ride and what you thing is acceptable feel for your suspension.

[Guest]

Thanks, guys.

Most of my riding has been done on freeways and most of those freeways have been pretty smooth, but the last 15k miles or so have been on less forgiving roads as roads out of hemet and within are full of potholes and uneven, poorly patched surfaces.

So is there a point where it becomes dangerous or is it just a matter of performance?

[johne]

Since the shock degrades over time, little by little, we tend not to notice it going bad. What fixer said about type of riding, weight of rider, gear, etc. is true too. It varies.

One sure way to tell would be to find someone in your area that has replaced theirs and ride their bike to compare.

Or just go ahead and get a new one set up for your weight and riding style that will be better than even a new stock one :thumbsup: :beer:

[jeremy556]

Disclaimer: I know very little about motorcycle suspension.

I think if your shock feels bouncy it is time for a rebuild or replacement. Mine at 37K I am certain is totally shot. When in a turn, the slightest ripple in the pavement requires multiple steering inputs after the rear end rebounds to keep the bike anywhere near a line.

I just wish I had the funds and know how to do something about my shock before heading up north next weekend.

[VFR4Lee]

I'm thinking it's a performance issue, not so much safety. :D

But WTF do I know, I have 52,000 miles on the stock shock. And fork.

Maybe it's a little mushy. I dunno. It rides OK. :beer:

The only time I recall changing a shock was on an old VW bus I once had.

One of the front shocks broke right in half. It was 100% done. :goofy:

[Guest]

Thanks for the replies, fellas. =]

Well, if it's not a safety issue maybe I'll put it off. I dunno...I'll think on it. I rode my Shadow for 87k miles with the stock shock untouched. I knew it was horrible though. It bottomed out on the smallest bumps. Now my 250lb brother commutes on it. LOL.

On the way home today I leaned it over a little too much and the combined rain and mushy shock obsorbsion after hitting a pothole upset the suspension a lot. I almost shat myself. hehe.

I have to say that the Metzler Z6 tires seem to have pretty darn good wet control, though.

[ULEWZ]

Mine went out at 28,000 miles. Lee's was toast years ago, but he still rides it. :beer: If you want to go fast with compliance, order a new shock. The Penske's are American made by the way. Oh, I consider a worn shock a safety issue, but only if you are riding it hard. A really skilled rider can compensate, but I don't think it is worth the chance, but I won't patch tires either. :P

[Guest]

Mine went out at 28,000 miles. Lee's was toast years ago, but he still rides it.  :beer: If you want to go fast with compliance, order a new shock. The Penske's are American made by the way.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I guess I better just bite the bullet and get it.

[PorradaVFR]

My understanding is that the actual spring will not wear out under normal use, but the oil, seals and potentially valves will over time. When I changed the fork oil and seals on my '01 it made a dramatic difference (~24k miles) even though I was not aware of the degradation.

The first time I got on the brakes it was like...WHOA no more dive! :beer:

[SAFE-T]

Lindemann Engineering can rebuild your stock shock for around $250, although the WP Fusion 4014 is a great deal.

[The Phantom]

Since the shock degrades over time, little by little, we tend not to notice it going bad.

It's a bit like fading eyesight, or hearing, except a bit easier to fix : )

As mentioned, you can ride around it, I've hammered both my '94 and a friend's '94 both with the OEM, untouched, shock. It does the job ok, but I'm sure I'd enjoy it more with something fresh under me.

I've had my stock shock rebuilt but haven't tested it yet. Chances are I won't :beer: as there are other options calling out to me... CBR900, CBR929, Ohlins... (plugs fingers into ears)

[jeremy556]

Lindemann Engineering can rebuild your stock shock for around $250, although the WP Fusion 4014 is a great deal.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ouch, $825 for the one with remote preload adjuster.

I wonder what the turn around time is for rebuilding as I don't have a spare shock.

[Guest]

Mine went at 40k put a abs stocker on love that remote knob.

[Baileyrock]

If I'm not shunned for that, then I will be shunned for how slow I ride in the twisties.?

Somebody has to know the answers to these questions.?

The spring basically holds the bike up and the oil/gas dampen's the spring(bouncing)osolating(?). If you loose oil or gas charge from your shock it will no longer be able to control the spring in rebound or comp., this will cause the bouncing you might be referring to. crank up on the rebound adjuster(bottom of shock, flat screw driver) and if it doesn't stop or greatly slow down this new bouncing feeling, it's junk. You can still ride it, but you will have less control in many situations.

You can check it sitting in the garage. Stand at rear of bike balancing it (off stands) and push down hard on the rear seat, if it jumps right back up and or bounces up and down a time or two the shock might be toast. Turn the rebound adjuster all the way in(clockwise) and re-test. If it still bounces, your shock is toast. If it slows it down so you might be ok a little longer, but no much.

PS I don't know Ship! :rolleyes:

A cheap route could be F4i shock with a new spring! :idea3:

[Guest macliver]

I just purchased an Ohlins 46DRS for my '03 VFR. Does anyone have photos of the installation and the routing of the pre-load adjuster through the frame to where it is mounted on the passenger peg? Thanks. Mac

[REDDOG]

Mine went at 40k put a abs stocker on love that remote knob.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

How much for the abs stocker and where did you get it? Thanks.

[DizzyDave]

I just looked up "Ohlins 46DRS" in Google, the first link was to HardRacing.com, they had it on sale for $675 (normally $845).

The 46 indicates Piston diameter in mm.

The D indicates De Carbon type of shock absorber with internal reservoir in the main body.

The R indicates Adjustable rebound damping.

The S indicates Hose mounted hydraulic spring preload adjuster.

I've got 12K miles on my bike, do I have to start shopping around for a shock? I'll be sure to give mine the "bounce" check tonight. I guess I should perform a similar test on the forks. Hit the front brakes a little harder than normal, and see how much the front dives, and if it bounces back up at me...

The rear shock seems easy enough to replace on my own, but the forks? I'd take them to a specialist.

[Guest]

Guys

As far as maintaining you suspension fluids. Let me ask you this. Would you run your engine for 52,000 miles before changing oil? Now for the suspension it doesn't need to be changed ever 3,000 miles or KM's but it has wearable parts just like an engine. In cartridge forks the hard anodizing on the cart. rod and cartridge wears out when the oil looses it's lubricating qualities. Also the oil has to work hard in your suspensions as it is always being ripped apart when it goes from compression to rebound. This breaks down the oil. Then when you us a cheap quality oil it breaks down even sooner. For example, on a race sport bike the oil is finished after one weekend of riding. I mean the oil comes out very dark and worn. With a good oil it can go for three to four weekends. Then next thing to watch when your bke is getting high on milage is bushing wear. There is a teflon material on the bushing that wears. The more rake the forks the more pressure there is on them. Now if you are not servicing them on a regular basis (once a season) then you have a high chance the they are worn or are wearing out. This will cause damage to the fork leg to the fact that it has to be replaced.

Why people don't think about changing there suspension fluids is because they get used to how it feels as it changes over time. Even on the springs. If you were to have two bikes that were the same and drove one for 25,000 miles and the other for 5,000 miles. You ride the high miler first for a distance then switch to the low milage bike. Chances are you would say to your self that the low milage bike feels firmer more planted and nicer handling. Or if you had both bikes at 25,000 miles but one of them had regular service on the suspension. I would bet that you would still say the same about the serviced one. Time changes the way they work even if you are just a cruizer kinda rider. Also a good suspension guy will be able to help set up the bike wear it corners with out handle bar counter steering.

So all in all think about your servicing and the wearable parts in side that help keep you riding safe.

Rod

RMR Suspensions

www.rmrsuspensions.com

[Guest]

I have just picked up my first VFR! Its a 1998 model with 52,000 miles on the clock! The engine feels sweet, no rattles etc and pulls like a train, however, the suspension feels awful. The forks feel too soft and the back end feels hard and bouncy. I feel unable to put it into a bend with confidence.

I have just bit the bullet and splashed out on a new rear shock and new fork springs and oil. Both of these parts are manufactured by Hagon. I am getting them fitted and set up next week, and I am hoping there will be a dramatic improvement in the way the bike feels/handles given this cash investment.

Would people here agree that there will be big improvements in handling given that the current suspension set up is 8 years old and covered 52,000 miles?

I will keep you posted regarding how the bike feels once these parts have been replaced. I hope my investment will be worth while!

[SAFE-T]

So all in all think about your servicing and the wearable parts in side that help keep you riding safe. 

 

Rod 

RMR Suspensions 

www.rmrsuspensions.com

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Good to see you on the board, Rod ! I'll be bringing Murphy to you this summer so you can check out my Ohlins stuff for me.