keny Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 Despite difference in outer casting, decided to go whit the led lower I bought, left in picture below The orginal has smoother surface under paint Well as you have the lower (inner) slide bushes side by side the old sure totally shoot The upper (outer) bushes only other was really worn, well as I had the new ones I sure did put them in. The bolts for the leg lowers, the one I bought came whit the OEM bolts, the orginal on bike was not orginal, but have to do, sham as I really like the design of the bolt head on the OEM bolts. A other thin is also the orginal is for 12mm socket where the aftermarket/ universal bolt use a 13mm So finally after some time the fork legs are together and bike standing on the front wheel So next front brake calipers together whit new seal kit, then I need to take the carbs off to change the flower bowl O rings and see if other surprise's are found.... And by the way, a aluminum washer sorted the oil leak at the drain plug A other thing to sort if I don't use the old dash whit orginal fairing, of course, is to modify to attach the round clocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 On 5/31/2024 at 9:02 PM, Captain 80s said: I actually think they sourced the 1987/88 CBR1000F forks for the 88/89 VFRs. They look identical (and are both 41mm damping rod forks), use the same size rotors and they have the lower unused mount for the big aero CBR front fender. EDIT: Yep. Just confirmed it with parts numbers. The lowers sliders are the same part number. Chrome tubes are not, probably a different length I'm sure you know this @Captain 80s but for others sake. The middle part of the part number is the PCN or "Product Code Number". This is the unique code that refers to the bike the part was originally designed for. In the case of the lowers, the right one is 51421-MM5-003 so as you correctly deduced that part carries the PCN "MM5" which refers to the "CBR1000FH-J (Hurricane) 1000" (SC21). The stanchions carry a ML7 PCN which means they originated with the VFR750F. There is a good list of PCNs here https://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPCNs.htm Also if anyone is really curious, the initial part of the part number refers to the type of part, the last part refers to the revision. Finally, you will often see parts superseded for improved versions in new models, looking for example at the 88 fork 'fiche the upper guide bush originally was a "MB4" ( VF1100 / V65 Magna) part but has been updated and replaced by the later "KCR" (VT250CR) part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 On 6/2/2024 at 8:48 AM, keny said: The bolts for the leg lowers, the one I bought came whit the OEM bolts, the original on bike was not original, but have to do, sham as I really like the design of the bolt head on the OEM bolts. A other thin is also the original is for 12mm socket where the aftermarket/ universal bolt use a 13mm I'm not a fan of using A2 stainless bolts for anything other than "cosmetic" purposes, ie never in critical places. They're straight up not as "strong" as a 8.8 (roughly 2/3rd of the yield strength) and more worryingly you can't be sure what grade the originals are either, they may not "merely" be an 8.8. When I run into this situation I use OEM bolts or properly suitable replacements. It's not exactly clear which bolt it is but as far as I can tell all of the bolts are still available new from Honda and for the sake of a few £/$ personally I'd be buying new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 Some work processes. First I did rebuild the CBR1000F clutch master cylinder, as I plan to use the clutch as Brake master cylinder on the RC24, Clutch is same size, 14mm, brake is also 14mm vs VFR 16mm, but from 88 on the VFR use a 13mm one. The smaller piston give a little longer pull but also more feel in the brake level. Well there was same kind of mustard like stuff in the M/C as I opened it like in my ZR7S brake M/C Other than cleaning all ait was a straight forward jobb Next up to put brake calipers together Sadly I noticed that the cheap rebuild kit had a catch, the rubbers for the sliding pins are missing 🤔 So they are now ordered as the wear plates for the brake pads. So a wait needed before I can mount the front brake 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 On 6/3/2024 at 3:46 PM, Fastdruid said: I'm not a fan of using A2 stainless bolts for anything other than "cosmetic" purposes, ie never in critical places. They're straight up not as "strong" as a 8.8 (roughly 2/3rd of the yield strength) and more worryingly you can't be sure what grade the originals are either, they may not "merely" be an 8.8. When I run into this situation I use OEM bolts or properly suitable replacements. It's not exactly clear which bolt it is but as far as I can tell all of the bolts are still available new from Honda and for the sake of a few £/$ personally I'd be buying new ones. The non OEM bolts there are not stainless, just zinked. Added washer's, worked ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 14 hours ago, keny said: The non OEM bolts there are not stainless, just zinked. Added washer's, worked ok. The picture was of an A2-70. That's stainless not zinc! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 6 hours ago, Fastdruid said: The picture was of an A2-70. That's stainless not zinc! Ok, I thought they where zinked ones.... Didn't look at the marks on the bolts as stainless usually just used for boat's here. Guess former owner had put stainless bolts then as I sure don't have stainless bolts around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 So tank off to dig the crabs off. Air filter was nice looking But can't figure out why attach a aluminum bit to the fuel line from pump to carb 🤔 As heat shield only I can think of, but as it's attached to the fuel line the aluminium will only warm the fuel line I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 Very bizarre. It looks like it's kind of trying to keep the fuel line off the head but why I don't know. I can only assume it was an attempt to fix a perceived problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 Hmmm, no heatshield on the back of the engine between the frame and head (I initially thought it was "missing" but looking at the fiche and appears the 86 didn't have one, or at least isn't listed). I wonder if there was an excess of heat there and that was an attempt to fix it, ultimately if the heat is coming from the exhaust there it's going to be pretty pointless though. Mine here for context. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 12 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12 3 hours ago, Fastdruid said: Hmmm, no heatshield on the back of the engine between the frame and head (I initially thought it was "missing" but looking at the fiche and appears the 86 didn't have one, or at least isn't listed). There is absolutely a heat shield on an 86. It is shown with the frame. It helps protect the shock. #12 GUARD, RR. CUSHION HEAT 50175-ML7-000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 7 hours ago, Fastdruid said: Very bizarre. It looks like it's kind of trying to keep the fuel line off the head but why I don't know. I can only assume it was an attempt to fix a perceived problem. Only thing I can think of is that when the pickup coil problem started someone put it there to eliminate the fuel line didn't run to warm to get running issue 🤔 🤷 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 19 hours ago, Captain 80s said: There is absolutely a heat shield on an 86. It is shown with the frame. It helps protect the shock. #12 GUARD, RR. CUSHION HEAT 50175-ML7-000 Different heat shield. That's the shock heat shield (#13 on the diagram below). I'm referring to #15 (50177-ML7-920 "GUARD, RR. HEAD HEAT") Shown on the '86 diagram because they update the diagrams for the older models based off the newer ones... but not listed in the parts list. And to make it clearer, here is my photo again with it highlighted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 13 Member Contributer Share Posted June 13 Oh.... sorry. Yeah no heat shield of that type on the 86/87. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 Well carbs off, intake rubbers hard as a rock, new ones ordered so just a wait for them also. Well better get into the carbs during that And for that heat shield, non on my 86 ither But I wonder if my former low vin 86 had one, it had some other other bits I has not seen on other RC24's, like small heat guards on the silencers/mufflers behind passenger fotpegs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 Well, I'm not in the hunt for one more VFR, but still browse local sales site for fun, and this VFR750 got my attention, not that I want tu buy it but something weard whit it.... It's listed as a 89 model, but first looks like a 86/87 that is issued as leftover, bit looking closer I noticed the 88/89 passenger pegs, as 17" wheel spoke pattern and exhaust sure looks 88/89, while forks, front wheel as fairing and panels under seat say 86/87. So as I happen I can check Vin based on license plate number and indeed it's a 89 bike by Vin number! So partly this has had a accident some time and repaired whit parts from a 86/87! Well actually the add says rev counter don't work, no surprise if dash is from a 86/87 and put on a 89 model 😅 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 1 hour ago, keny said: Well, I'm not in the hunt for one more VFR, but still browse local sales site for fun, and this VFR750 got my attention It's listed as a 89 model, but first looks like a 86/87 that is issued as leftover, bit looking closer I noticed the 88/89 passenger pegs, as 17" wheel spoke pattern and exhaust sure looks 88/89, while forks, front wheel as fairing and panels under seat say 86/87. So as I happen I can check Vin based on license plate number and indeed it's a 89 bike by Vin number! So partly this has had a accident some time and repaired whit parts from a 86/87! Well actually the add says rev counter don't work, no surprise if dash is from a 86/87 and put on a 89 model 😅 Very much a "bitsa" and not IMO in a good way! My opinion is that if it's had an impact big enough to need replacing that much it's not worth it unless *really* cheap! Also on the subject of working out early or late even if bits have been changed note the gear lever. The shaft comes out in different places so the early one is straight while the later one is cranked up and then across. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Thumbs Posted June 18 Member Contributer Share Posted June 18 Agreed, wrong fairing for the year/frame, it’s a very poor fit Walk away from this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 Like I did say, not going to buy a other bike/motorcycle. And agreed, it's not worth buying whit that much parts needed change it can be frame is damaged to. There is actually a other in same town/village for sale that is a 88 that also has a 86/87 fork/wheel but right front fairing that has a hilarious screen!! Wonder if same blacksmith has made them both? Both are listed for 1100-1200€, way to much even if I was in a hunt for a other RC24. I was a bit tempted on a RWB RC24 that was listed for 1800€ and good looking, but was a bit far away, but don't have to think of it anymore as sold 😅 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted June 18 Member Contributer Share Posted June 18 16 minutes ago, keny said: Like I did say, not going to buy a other bike/motorcycle FOR NOW Fixed that for you... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 So got a bit into the carbs I'm amazed how clean they are Inside! Sure they are dirty outside Well fuel leak I think actually came from the tube between the crabs rather than the flowt bowl seals Through the flowt bowl seals where sure not good anymore, hard as brittle Also one tube was cracked, it's on the breath side through Guess better chance all as apart anyway. Have not checked what OEM costs, wonder if better quality or get aftermarket that should hold today's fuel whit high alcohol content? A other thing The more I look at this the more I'm convinced that the tail can't be much rised whit this Devil exhaust, 7 mm clearance now between exhaust as shock linkage. So need to figure out what choice's I have, sure would like to keep the exhaust as good looking in my eyes, not so long silencer compared to other offerings. Franklin if I have to let the Devil system go OEM silencers is the choice for me, unless I build a left side exhaust 🤔 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 Generally it's never a good idea to split the carbs from the base plate...unless you have that very issue! What I've done whenever I've taken a look at carbs is set float heights etc is to rig up a small fuel pot and put a reasonable amount of head of fuel onto it to ensure they're not leaking anywhere. Then again if my current one starts to leak I've got a good set I rebuilt from two bad sets (coincidently one where someone had split them off the base and not put them back correctly!) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 23 Member Contributer Share Posted June 23 I did a little shaping of that piece to gain a little clearance. It wasn't hitting, but it was damn close. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted June 30 Author Share Posted June 30 Crabs are back together Still awaiting the inlet rubbers, should arrive next week. But no worries, will check valve clearance before putting them back as I now have better space. I don't have a manual anymore sadly, so can someone say which cylinders valves are to check when the crank mark is in certain position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdruid Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I've PM'd you where you can get the Honda service manual from! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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