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Posted

Well finally time to open this box

large.IMG_20240707_080748.jpg.b696db1a3494341b34d956b26ee3f11a.jpg

Decided to start whit the brakes 

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The parts I needed 

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Then calipers mounted, brake lines in place.

Decided to put the M/C from the CBR1000F to have a matching pair as  the clutch M/C level had lot's of play and the CBR one was rebuild not long ago.

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There is a issue however, the clutch side fits fine but the brake side reservoar touch the bar so wouldn't not angel straight against bar. So if I keep this need to grind some material from M/C or bar.

The piston size is also slightly different, OEM is ⅝ ~16mm, CBR is 14mm. Should also have a 3rd gen VFR M/C hanging around that needs rebuild as level but the level from the OEM M/C should fit, it's ½" so 13mm through.

I recall the level of the pull on my 87 RC24 had a short pull but needed quit high pull force even all was rebuild. So a smaller M/C should give slightly longer pull but less force needed whit better feeling. 

Posted

Some progress.

Valve's are adjusted 

New spark plugs in

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Also the drain holes are now open.

Cylinder #2 spark plug cap is changed to a other good one as it didn't hold in place. The corroded spark plug is from that cylinder.

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The new carb rubbers are in, carbs back on bike 

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Rear turn signals, the front ones that is moved back has to short wires 

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So lengthed them bu cutting and putting in a new wire in between to still use same connection plugs. Soldier the new connections

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Then the tail section on, wish rest of fairings would be in as nice condition 

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So next to put coolant in engine tank in place and need to get some fresh fuel and then see if it starts 

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well, carbs off again......

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Last weekend I (after some electric issues) had it running outside my house (fortunately) as after a while carbs flooded heavy! It just poured fuel from the carbs. 😞

So I just pushed it back into the garage...

This morning decided to pull carbs off one more time. I can't get it what's wrong. 

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I suspect a fuel line could have come lose but no, as you blow in the fuel line there is a pressure against so it indicates the float needles seal, as if you turn the carbs around let some fuel out then your blow comes out in a breather pipe. Fill the carbs whit a small canister (for sync used whit out OEM tank)

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and your blow in the fuel line has pressure against, no leaks. But letting it stand whit fuel in the other cross feed pipe between carbs seems to leak....

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So carbs apart one more time 

  • Member Contributer
Posted

A Blessing in disguise Keny, the 30 year old plastic fuel tubes can be replaced with aluminum. I put alum. tubes on my 86 but I had a bad interference problem at the very same spot you have pictured above. So be careful there, double check clearance there when assembled. I fixed the problem with my set of tubes with a half round file and some good music.

image.thumb.jpeg.6cd4f159f2a70e0cbb0dc43090180ad4.jpegHave fun!

  • Like 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted
On 7/7/2024 at 10:02 AM, keny said:

Well finally time to open this box

large.IMG_20240707_080748.jpg.b696db1a3494341b34d956b26ee3f11a.jpg

Decided to start whit the brakes 

large.IMG_20240707_082000.jpg.65ac29c20cd5ee83de334f2bb1383d12.jpg

The parts I needed 

large.IMG_20240707_100445.jpg.17b027dc0fa659f6217d3b5481cdd89b.jpg

Then calipers mounted, brake lines in place.

Decided to put the M/C from the CBR1000F to have a matching pair as  the clutch M/C level had lot's of play and the CBR one was rebuild not long ago.

large.IMG_20240707_100419.jpg.d79ada6e934cf7aa1930ada4723a6051.jpg

There is a issue however, the clutch side fits fine but the brake side reservoar touch the bar so wouldn't not angel straight against bar. So if I keep this need to grind some material from M/C or bar.

The piston size is also slightly different, OEM is ⅝ ~16mm, CBR is 14mm. Should also have a 3rd gen VFR M/C hanging around that needs rebuild as level but the level from the OEM M/C should fit, it's ½" so 13mm through.

I recall the level of the pull on my 87 RC24 had a short pull but needed quit high pull force even all was rebuild. So a smaller M/C should give slightly longer pull but less force needed whit better feeling. 

 

Generally, the less force, the worse "feel".  The main problem with a longer pull is that the handlebar is still in the same place...

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

Posted

Could not resist this runner RC24 for 900€

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🙈😁😎

  • Like 6
Posted

Had the Interceptor out from garage today for a few pictures 

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It's a bit nicer in picture than for real, but still nice.

Former former owner has 2022 rebuilt the fork whit new seals as bushes, changed the carb manifold rubbers as carbs gaskets as pipes between whit O-rings, valve cover gaskets, front brake lines (to brained) as air filter, milage then 72k kms, former owner bought it June 15th, then it had 73500kms on Odo, as I bought it August 5th the milage is 77k kms. Former owner has changed rear tire to a 0224 manufactured Bridgestone BT46, front is a Pirelli Sport Demon from 2012, as changed battery as new sparkplugs (indium). He has also bought a central stand from a breaker but removed the side stand as he though the bike leaned over to much....

He has also addad the race stickers that some are cool but some not I think.

Well the former former owners ad also told the fairing lowers has been repainted and claims it got OEM stickers, might be but they are 700 version stickers, oh well, good enough for me.

Anyway got some extras along, a grab handel for passenger as a Five Stars (I think) top box rack.

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The reason for the high lean whit side stand might have to do whit that the rear shock is not orginal but aftermarket, don't know who's thro

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But to me it's a big bonus!

I'm happy so far. I want to inspect it thro before riding and needs a good cleaning, and I have a side stand ordered from a breaker.

  • Like 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted

Looks like it is in decent condition under the dirt and the stickers! I would suggest taking a close look at the tailpiece plastics where the front edge of the taillight sits as they are very prone to cracking/breaking there. Some preventative fibreglass reinforcement might avoid that.

Posted

Some stickers off 

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And it has a side stand again 

  • Like 1
Posted

Got this manual for just postage 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Well finally got time (after other projects done) to go through the VFR Interceptor I bought, basically a runner but I always like to see thro that things are up to how I like them.

Well I know the valve cover gaskets are changed a few years back but it seems the rear one is still leaking slightly!

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There is oil coming from the rear head down between the V and going down so the inside of fairing is wet of oil. Not a alarming amount but sure should be non!

Former owner had also put 2 switches on the left inner panel

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One for direct radiator fan operator, other as a light switch.

Sad in that way as these panels are more or less non existing anymore and different from the version that has square clocks. Empty holes in a panel is not nice.

The one for fan is made by twisting a wire around the wire from the termo switch at radiator thro the switch and to other bolt of ignition coil. Did take it away.

The US version don't have a light switch like the European does. Probably the reason former owner had made a switch for it, but for a man that told me he knows electric, the job had low quality but fortunely not messing whit orginal wires like the fan, he had simply taken the light fuse out, and taken wires there thro the switch whit out a fuse! So it was simply to plug out the wires and put in the fuse back.

I must say the repair of the lower side fairings are poor, the left turn signal bracket is bent, but instead of straighten it back the turn signal shaft has been bent (and destroyed), oh man......

large.IMG_20240818_160851.jpg.9b7c9588c5f5caccd38f1a6771ae387e.jpg

And one more thing, the guy I bought it from told me he had modified the battery holder to take a slightly bigger battery that is more common as far cheaper, well now in closer inspection it's done at rear end that means the battery sticks out in the rear fender, not sure that good battery gets the rear wheels spray on it...

large.IMG_20240818_161114.jpg.99a62a712dbe62f9cab2ec40be82b2b7.jpg

 

So things to sort while waiting for a fresh front tire.

Not much to choose from anymore, the Dunlop I ordered earlier this year is not awable anymore, Metzler has stopped making the Roadtec01 so only the Pirelli Sport Demon as Bridgestone BT46 to choose from, as a fresh BT46 rear, the BT46 was my choice 

  • Sad 1
Posted

Today it came

large.IMG_20240819_160156.jpg.4b078c31023e3ff478c6302aed02ef5f.jpg

The new front tire, fresh as made week 11 2024 😎

  • Like 1
Posted

And it's on the rim

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Next to get the bike to work for a good wash, then check the rear valve cover gasket as check the oil pump chain as it sounds it make noise as you rise the rpm

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Curious to hear how you like the BT46. Front only or a set going on? 

Posted
5 hours ago, bmart said:

Curious to hear how you like the BT46. Front only or a set going on? 

Former owner had put on a BT46 rear that has about 2500km on it, it's also fresh production (made 2024)

I have tried the BT45 before (on my former RC24 87 model) and liked it so hopefully this even better 

Posted

I was very happy with the BT45's on mine so doubtless the BT46 would be a good choice if you're sticking with std wheels.  Although I've now gone with wider wheels and radials. 

 

When I was contemplating them they didn't have the correct speed ratings available so I think *all* BT46's are likely to be pretty new. 

Posted

The Interceptor a bit cleaner

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But wheels still need a lot of cleaning.

The rear shock seems to be a Bitubo

large.IMG_20240824_092359.jpg.6e2420e657017e74ff5663a90575cafe.jpg

Not sure of length, but as this bike is issued in 1988 even a 1986 model, and the tail seems higher than stock, can be it's a longer one for a actual 1988?

Have to try to take measurements 

 

A thing I don't like whit most people in the country I live whit is that if something is broken,  they fix it whit what they have around, and so it's done whit tail faster under seat

large.IMG_20240824_103544.jpg.fed41088906a27ccb8ff22168d7ad15f.jpg

So tail pice bolted firm to the sub frame whit rubber between plastic as washer 

Not so good as not isolated from subframe. 

Something needs to be done....perfectly OEM rubbers as spacers...

  • Like 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted

Bike's looking nice Keny! 

Try to go stock hardware if posable.

 

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr700f-interceptor-1986-g-usa-california_model1121/collar-rrcowl-mo_77217ml7000/

 

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr700f-interceptor-1986-g-usa-california_model1121/rubber-rrcowl-mo_77218ml7000/

 

Here's how I help secure my busted up tail section. 

Torque-1053.thumb.jpg.a1072fa26d49f5f632e8205482fcd86e.jpgTorque-1051.thumb.jpg.22bc3fabe3c14ddafe0c2c5effa6778c.jpgTorque-1050.thumb.jpg.16946b109688ad0f7eaa0e4a2c6bb5c6.jpgTorque-1049.thumb.jpg.f82bc15d5e352e3baeb6a54337cbcbb0.jpg

 

I know it's crude but it's cheap and no-one will know.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Well the shock length is about 275mm, so in between the OEM 86 vs 87-89

 

The red ones carbs are back together 

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So tomorrow on bike and we see if it starts again and don't leak hopefully.

I didn't buy new tubes to get O-rings, did just visit a shop that have a bigger stock and got slightly thicker ones, fingers crossed 🤞 it will work this time 

Posted

Bitubo do at least a 88-89 specific shock as well as at least one other (maybe two) for the 86/87.

 

I had one i bought for mine and I was very much not impressed but I'm not sure if it was just duff. It was very very cheap (old stock sell off on Ebay,  iirc was about £10 from M&P as no one else bid) and by the time I fitted it was way too late to return it. 

  • Member Contributer
Posted

And you all know the troubles I had with my Bitubo also. I finally got it mostly sorted, but I'd steer clear. 

Posted

So no flags for Bitubo then 😬

Well as long the fluids stay in and working somewhat ok I'm happy.

bmart, didn't know you had bad luck whit one, and Fastdruid this can sure be a older version as the colors as spring adjuster rings don't look like today's offerings

 

Funny thing is I at some point asked the shock length for RC24 shocks from Bitubo (as could not found them anywhere) and recall it was 270mm for 86-87 and 278mm for 88-89 so 2mm shorter than OEM.

Posted

Am a bit frustrated here now, as I had the red one up running, but carb to cylinder #1 is still leaking badly 😞

large.IMG_20240826_095405.jpg.6594f1e224e8e3a89293bbdf2c543836.jpg

Well leak dried out in the picture, but I had the tank off fast after to spot leak places and the tubes between the carbs are holding tight, so leak coming from lower. Can't just figure what It can be.....

The float chamber drain bolt is tight, looks like the O-ring at float chamber is leaking even new and was at right spot as I had the float chambers off to secure the floats are moving smooth as the needle holding....

Well nothing else to do than the carbs out again..... But not today......

  • Sad 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted
9 hours ago, keny said:

So no flags for Bitubo then 😬

Well as long the fluids stay in and working somewhat ok I'm happy.

bmart, didn't know you had bad luck whit one, and Fastdruid this can sure be a older version as the colors as spring adjuster rings don't look like today's offerings

 

Funny thing is I at some point asked the shock length for RC24 shocks from Bitubo (as could not found them anywhere) and recall it was 270mm for 86-87 and 278mm for 88-89 so 2mm shorter than OEM.

 

~270 for 86, ~280 for 87,  linkage piece changed on 87 to compensate.

Posted
5 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

 

~270 for 86, ~280 for 87,  linkage piece changed on 87 to compensate.

Yes I know that are the OEM lengths, the one I stated was what Bitubo clame they are selling.

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