turtlecreek

no difference in the shocks... if you look at the 1st post pictures, you will see the black adjuster. it is difficult to get to. like you said, if you set it and forget it, fine...otherwise, you might want to consider something else. i have tried to set it with spanner, but haven't spent a lot of time on it and didn't have success. once i get the bike out of my garage (no room to manuever) i'll see if i can do it.

any reason the cheap, hammer actuated impact wrench couldn't be used, or could that hurt anything?

glad to see you made your way out to the shop! only question with this technique is that i thought getting that screw out of the bottom was a royal pain in the Arse...yes? is it somehow easier using f4i shocks?

Dale, somethings not right here. :huh: Your bike with the supposed 950 lb spring is/was TWICE as stiff as the rear of my bike with an 1100 lb spring on it!!! I couldn't even get the rear of your bike to move bouncing on it! That's what I was telling you when I got off your bike, the rear wouldn't move under my weight, where mine was soft compared to yours! I would have to guess that whoever built that F4i shock for you did something strange to it like an incredibly stiff comp shim stack or twice the normal amount of gas charge, there is no way a 950 lb spring is even close to being correct for your weight on a VFR by anyone's correct calculations. I don't know what changed at ReceTech, but their Spring Rate Calculator for the VFR is Now way soft too, it used to be very hard, but Ohlins, Penske, and even JD will all come up with much higher and more accurate spring rate numbers for our VFR's. Contact JD now and ask about what spring his calculations would come up with for your weight, he had to adjust his calculator recently because it had some slight error that was causing low spring rate calculations. For whatever reason, your bike is NOT the norm! :blush: it was because the compression was too high (closed). as i mentioned, i have set it up after the revalve job on the front and now it is definitely working right. i have the front with the new valving matching the action on the rear and for street riding with our weekend runs, it works great. you'll have to try it (if we ever see the sun again). just to be sure, i checked again; eibach 0950 spring and sag just checked out at 25-30mm (did it alone, thus the range) not sure what else to tell you.

welcome....there has been some debate, but i think a V4 lover, even if just a cage, is welcome too!! do a search on "torocharger" in this sight. that might help you too.

spotted a little typo in your post The average American is let's say, 100lbs heavier than your :cool: :biggrin: Until I started reading VFRD, I never felt my suspension was inadequate................ I somehow think most motorcyclists are the same. It is a bit like Doug's comments on bad/good sex......... :biggrin: what's this "bad sex" you guys keeping talking about? :huh: :laugh:

i just saw this and haven't read the entire thread....sorry to hear about the "off". glad you are "ok" in general. i have really enjoyed reading about this bike over the years and know you had a lot vested in it. i hope you can rebuild her.

glad you figured out what the issue was on your bike. i have an older model with speedohealer, so never saw the reaction you were seeing. i would not "think" ABS would be impacted as ABS is a relationship between the two tires' speed and is based off of the ABS ring sensor sending back a pulse. it should not care what speed the ecu thinks the bike is going as long as the two tires' speeds are the same....but i could be wrong. :wub: nice write up too!

Personal choice I suppose if you want the rubber top feel of the stock peg. I sell the entire made to fit drop pegs for less than the adapter. Boss9, let me be first to apologize. I thought this was more of the buell ulysses post. I cannot understand why folks bought that over the BLS. That being said, I didn't see that you were offering another option too. I am sure your's is excellent in all ways and is a great option provided by a member. good luck!

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...&hl=footpeg home grown solution.

:fing02: i upgraded mine using a crappy shock off ebay and it was much improved. cant imagine what an ohlin would do for me! nice pipes by the way!

I'm not so sure great grip but after only 2500 miles I'm down to wear bars on rear!!! front still have 50% left i just had corsa III installed in DEC and looking for a new tire already. thinking of going back to conti rd attack got 4000 miles out of them almost as grippy. what kinda mileage are you guys getting on a rear pr2 ? pr2 on the back just died...3700 miles which is AMAZING!! PP was getting 2200 and like everyone said, it sticks VERY well. i have been running diablo front w/ pr2 rear and pp front with pr2....both work quite well for street finding.

Go with something different and ride it naked. +1 :cool: the bike or BR? :biggrin:

Match these numbers with the number in the red on the chart, for spring rate. ken, they are 170mm long, 18kg/mm and 17kg/mm spring rates

that really improves the bike look. nice! :491:

Preload is used to achieve proper SAG #'s if the spring rate is close enough. You can find Sag how to in the FAQ section of the tool bar. Street riding SAG are in the area of 35-45mm front and 25-35mm rear depending on riding type and style and is one of the most important setting (after proper spring rates) you can do in general. kevin is spot on w/ preload. the point is to have your suspension in the mid part of your travel so you don't bottom or top out. preload does NOT impact spring rate. this is a function of the spring itself and is rated in lbs/in or kg/mm. this simply tells you for 'x' amount of load, the spring compresses 'y' amount of distance....a 15kg/mm spring compresses 1mm per 15kg of load on it. when you combine this with the rear suspension geometry and the design of the shocks compression and rebound circuits, you get a properly tuned suspension that carries the load properly (which means it keeps the contact patch as big and stable as possible) for the road conditions for which it is setup. hope that makes sense.

now that you are back on thte road, keep an eye out on ebay. you will be able to pick up a 5th (00-01) or 6th gen one off ebay for around $40 or less shipped.

Excessive heat - which is caused by excessive current - which is (as I understand) often caused by a short circuit in the rectifier/regulator. My non-professional opinion.... The R/R is the "weak link" as it has the most parts that CAN fail. Stators by themselves rarely fail because they are just a bit of metal with wire wrapped around it. The R/R on the other hand is full of bits and pieces that all need to work correctly. Besides the Diode Bridge, there are 18 other electrical components in the schematic I posted. Most likely to fail is the Diode Bridge (no charging) or the SCR (Shorts to ground, creating tons of heat). If the Stator is melting, which would be an incredible amount of heat, or just getting hot enough that the wire covering melts....covering is rated to ~133 C, or 271 F, it would most likely be because the R/R is not shorting the power to ground correctly. Thanks for this informative thread. I am with you, I want to understand this so I can prevent stator #4 failure when I am several days away from home. I think this is understandable so far. I understand electrical theory enough to be dangerous but not enough to solve this. Here are questions. As the stator operates, what happens to the stator when the power demand or resistance of the R/R is excessively high or low? Would either condition heat the stator? At a given rpm does the stator put out a constant wattage or is it dependent on the R/R resistance. I would guess the R/R resistance or draw from the stator should be fairly constant and what power is not used by the bike is wasted in heating the R/R. As the bike draws more current there would be less heat at the R/R and when the bike draws more current (amps) than available the system voltage would drop. being a simple mechanical convertor, yes the stator puts out constant wattage at constant rpm. r/r decides what to do with it (waste it/send to electrical system) i believe your statement about heat to be correct to a degree. power transfered to the electrical system still creates heat in the r/r as it is not 100% efficient, but less heat as the heat is not created in the electrical system devices that are consuming the power instead of being dumped to ground in the r/r. however, the available system voltage does NOT drop as that is the exact goal of the r/r. only when your system draw is so high that the r/r can no longer produce enough power will the voltage drop.

i was trying to overlook the color mismatch, but my eye couldnt get past if to see the lines. then i saw the all black.....NICE!

my concern exactly! great idea, but no matter what i do, my forks dive to with about 1/2" to 3/4" from hardstop, so i think i would hit those lights.. :fing02: