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The version 3 optimization build


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4 hours ago, jefferson said:

if I can just figure out how to get all the pieces back where they are supposed to go.

Use duct tape on outside to hold all pieces together. Then patch up on inside. Tape holds cracks together and prevents any drips from running out of cracks onto undamaged surfaces. Also serves as mould to let you fill gaps in cracks from back side.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Well got all the plastic repaired as best I could and it's serviceable. Waiting on the weather now and time as I am working 11 hours days for a few weeks. Getting up at 4 am kind of sucks. 

Got a 5th gen shifter from a guy that had a spare as the one he had on the bike he was parting out was going to be rubbing on the metal fairings by the measurements he gave me. He had the spare and the measurements changed to ones that would work. Smoothed all the parting lines off and was kind of surprised to see over a quarter pound of weight savings, .27 to be exact and it is much better looking. Even uses a small 8mm headed bolt compared to the 10mm on the stock shifter. 

I plan on using some of the money from all the hours on the ti axle and nut. Really interested in how much weight that will save.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Some observations after a few short rides. No vibration was noticed from removing the weight behind the left footpeg. Engine rpm was only up to around 5,500 so it is good to there. A pull to redline may reveal some vibration at higher rpm so time and rpm will tell.

It does seem to rev a little quicker which would be down to the aluminum drive plates in the clutch. The new sprockets and chain smoothed things up noticeably. I really think the old chain was knackered as the brits would say, yet the sprockets didn't show any wear.

I checked to see if there was any voltage on the ground on the rt side of the frame. I measured .03 at idle and .04 at 5,000 rpm. I had already made a wire to go from the ground point on the frame straight to the ground on the battery. Hooked it up and reduced the voltage on the ground by .02 at both rpm's. There wasn't much there to start with, but it is now reduced to a better level so i am happy. It was easy to do.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Sure would like to post some pictures I need to talk to someone that does the IT work on the forum. Anyone know who I need to contact?

 

The ti Axle and nut came in the very same day the post office told me it was still being held by customs in Chicago. No tracking updates or anything. PO has a lot of problems if you ask me.

Took the nut in to get it hollowed out and total saved was .25 of a pound.

The new muffler showed up and could not see anyway for it to mount and actually stay in place. Had to have some stainless work and welding done to some ancillary pieces, but I think it will work out nicely. Total weight saved is 7.8 lbs which puts me at a total of 19.24 lbs lighter. The muffler savings may turn out to be more depending on a few things. Have to wait and see. 

 

I needed to get the bike safety inspected for new plates, but without the muffler I knew not to try and then I found the rear brake master wouldn't build any pressure. Local shop actually had the oem Honda kit in stk. Think I kind of lucked out there.

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Attach images … you mean like this …

 

 

65E85415-3909-4E28-A4F1-226049B30988.jpeg

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I get an error code when I do that. Never had any problem when I posted pictures before. Apple tells me it is something with the server on the forum and I have posted pictures other places.

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I've posted pics using copy / paste function. Mite give that a go.  The site certificate seems good so that's probably not it.  Could cookie settings affect that?

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I can attempt the copy/paste and see, but the cookie thing is not anything I am familiar with. Oatmeal raisin is my favorite.

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can you post what error message you get?

 

Test of uploading photo from iPhone...

303B478F-7483-4AE0-A7D5-36E432B3D77D.jpeg

 

 

Test of uploading photo from Google Drive....

File_001.png

 

test of hot-linking from Google Drive:

uc?export=download&id=0B2u9SQWpJMCTaFFXQ

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  • 1 month later...
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Sorry, but I thought I posted it was error code 200.

 

Going to try another way if I can figure it out. All I get is upload failed. I don't know anything else to try. I have drug files and tried to copy them as well as choose files.

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Ok, this error you're getting is due to filesize or dimensions of image being over certain limit. I tried to upload 3.1mb image with 5000x3750 pixels and got this error:

`

ImageUpload-Error200.jpg

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I resized image down to 1700x1275 pixels, 0.4mb with Photoshop and it uploaded just fine.

 

 

ScarfingDonut..jpg

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I think I may have this figured out. Thanks a lot Danno for the links.

Here are some photo's from months ago. I have 2 more I want to get on here, but it may take some work to figure that out as some things don't seem to work the way they should.

I did lose .25 of a pound with a Spiegler braided rear brake line and aluminum banjo bolts. Installed the oem Honda rebuild kit in the master and it worked great for about 1 long ride. Now I'm right back to not building any pressure. Not sure what is going on.

IMG_0095.jpeg

IMG_0096.jpeg

IMG_0097.jpeg

IMG_0098.jpeg

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Well I got these resized and loaded. This thing sounds glorious. A little loud even with the baffle installed. Sounds perfect with earplugs and isn't even too bad without for short rides. It's a lot lighter. I think I posted the weight savings in a previous post. I can get rid of the footpeg/muffler mount altogether for some more savings. I will need to keep the upper part that the side panels bolt to.

D5B9EC00-329C-4A23-8BCB-B1D76B976032_1_201_a.jpeg

D4F63988-D08D-441A-B1BF-E87352F67247_1_201_a.jpeg

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  • 3 months later...
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So far this year I have put 1608 miles on the bike and loving every one. My mileage varies between a high of 50.3 mpg and a low of 44.7. Avg comes out to 47.2 for all tanks of fuel. The furthest I went on a tank was 202.5 miles with 4.3 gals used. I'm pretty happy with the mileage I'm getting

Got a braided clutch line to go on, but they didn't have the aluminum banjo's in stk. at the time so I am waiting for those in order to put the line on. Should be close to the weight savings on the rear brake line. Also have a set of Racetech fork springs to install. Those should really help the nosedive under braking.

The last couple of days I have been working on several project in the garage and while I waited for things to cool down on one I  messed with the clutch and brake levers on the bike. I flattened the top and bottom of the ball on the ends and drilled a hole in the middle of the ball. After sanding and polishing they look like the stock finish and have a tricker look. Saved a whopping 4 hundredths of a pound, but the look is worth it.

I did want to mention also that that stick on heat shield I used on the back side of the frame and metal shields really did cut down on the amount of felt heat on my right leg. Well worth doing.

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  • 1 month later...
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A little info about the center stand that I weighed off my bike. The bracket is not cast iron as I have seen promoted everywhere, it is steel. The total weight of the assembly with the bolts is 7.15 lbs. I already have the ti bolts and have been cleaning up the rough edges where the bracket was pressed out of the steel plate. Welds have been cleaned up on the stand itself and I took the bracket to the machinist today to have it lightened up. I will take pictures when I get it back, and also see how much weight was saved.

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  • 1 month later...
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Went to put the Spiegler clutch line on and found a straight end on one end where it should have a bend like the other end. It would work, but I would like to have bends like the oem line. Just sent an email with pictures off to them. Got the center stand bracket back and painted it along with the stand itself. Total saved is .62 lbs. which includes the ti bolts to mount it. Sidestand bolts in ti saved .06.

Aluminum case bolts were installed save one as I miscounted, resulted in a weight savings of .32 lbs. Putting another order together so I can finish the sidcover bolts and do some others while the fairings are off.

Here's the pic of the centerstand mount.

IMG_0111.JPG

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Look into Core Moto, for future lines. When you go into their custom order page, you can choose every single aspect of your lines. Plus, the banjo fittings rotate 360°, so you can precisely position everything how you want. Mine shipped the same day. 
 

https://www.coremoto.com/category_s/4085.htm

 

BTW, they make Ti banjo bolts. 😉

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  • 1 month later...
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Did some more modding and replacing of bolts. Little bit here and a little bit there. Removed the pair fittings from the airbox and drilled a hole in the tab that holds the little filter box. Both footpegs were smoothed of all the peg feeler mountings etc. and the rear brake lever was lightened along with the footpeg bracket and lever having 13 new holes. I should have gone ahead and done 2 more in the arm of the lever. Oh well, there's always later. Total savings was .61 lbs. Picture of the rt. peg lever assy. I left the rubber off the lever to show the holes there.

451896FF-1543-4FB3-A7C7-2BABD9FEC1D6_1_201_a.jpeg

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Hey Jefferson, if you're going that far, there is more to be removed from the other side while still having some protection....

 

 

1827522347_LeftPeg.jpg

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Yeh, nice. Kind of hard to tell exactly what you did due to the angle, but I have looked at alot of things to drill and lighten. Just takes more time. Air is always lighter than metal.

 

Can't do any bandsaw work right now as my blade kept jumping off and I took some of the bearings off to clean and lubricate as they weren't in too good of shape. Turns out there is an eccentric on the back that is very thin and I haven't been able to find the wrench that fits it so it looks like I may have to make something.

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  • 2 months later...
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It's been awhile and some more has been accomplished. I bought a 4th gen for the front end and the lower triple. Going to part out all the other. No weights yet on anything as that will be a winter project. Thinking about machining off the center rib on the wheel since I will have to get it powder coated anyway. Doing that to some other wheels resulted in 1/2 to 3/4 lb savings.

More bolts have saved .84 lb and the clutch line saved .28

The rt. passenger peg bracket is just a mount for the bodywork now with a total savings of 1.09 lbs. and it looks like I didn't get that picture loaded onto the computer. Stay tuned. 

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  • 1 month later...
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The first picture is the rt. passenger peg mount the way I was going to run it and then I realized none of it was needed except the tab to mount the side panel, hence the second photo. Took a couple of tries to get it lined up with the hole in the side panel as there was nothing there to hold it in place while tightening. Had to wedge a screwdriver between the ti bolt and the side of the hole. The picture is pre ti bolts.

 

I thought I found a guy to do a ti fairing mount or subframe. One of the ZRX guys who is way beyond me had a ti fairing mount done for his bike. When I inquired about his source he responded after the 3 months it took him to do his he wasn't looking to do any more. He saved right at a pound. The price was never divulged.  I would have to weigh the ZRX piece and then the mount off the VFR to see how they compare weight wise. 

D671C47D-3828-4124-8F24-5EEA4915BD5D_1_201_a.jpeg

DF7CFA2E-99F1-47EB-9EDA-7CBAAA6923A0_1_201_a.jpeg

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