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Counterbalance

Parked in ‘88 w/ 7,888.8 miles...

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...VFR700 F2.

 

Does this bike want to be a good bike? - or a bad bike.

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Best wishes on your journey

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Sweet find, looks like it was in a nice warm dry storage area.  Have fun recommissioning it. 

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Good bike :fing02:

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Welcome to the asylum. I'd say that machine has a future in the right hands. Any body work come with it? Good luck and good wrenching.

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12 minutes ago, MaxSwell said:

Welcome to the asylum. I'd say that machine has a future in the right hands. Any body work come with it? Good luck and good wrenching.

Here’s the story - I’ve got about $3K in mind to put toward this bike. I’ve been looking for a V4 for a while and I just couldn’t walk away from the low mileage on this one. It has expensive problems, but a lot to show for itself too. Here’s the start of a ‘get run’ list which will help me know how to proceed. 

 

   1) keys are long gone so I need ignition, tank lock assembly and seat release (HELP!)

   2) rebuild hydraulic clutch system 

   3) carbs need rebuilding and gone through with intake rubber replaced as needed 

   4) plugs, oil, coolant, filters, etc.

   5) ? (Your input here) ?

 

Then, it fires right up, I smile from ear to ear, say something about how great Honda’s are and then decide how to proceed, right?

 

The lower fairing is shot both sides. Some hooplehead grabbed the tailight to move the bike and cracked it but nothing is missing. The rest of the plastic is very good. Generally the bike is low wear and damage appears mostly cosmetic. I’m worried about old rubber and the attendant trouble from just parking a bike for 30 years.

 

Any help on key/ignition/fuel-cap so I can move on to the next step?

 

Thanks for looking!

 

 

 

 

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Being a VFR700 (and not a VF....) cams shoudl be ok. But I'd inspect them 1st prior to pouring serious money into her.....

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Remove the ignition.  In an area that is not visible when mounted, is the key number (like A47 or D16).  Get that key made.  That low mileage of a bike, all the other keyed items should still match.

 

You can also remove the helmet lock for the same purpose.  That has break-off bolts, so it is harder to remove,  A fresh set of vise grips has always allowed me to get on the edge and get them loosened.

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On 6/1/2019 at 6:11 PM, Captain 80s said:

 

 

You can also remove the helmet lock for the same purpose.  That has break-off bolts, so it is harder to remove,  A fresh set of vise grips has always allowed me to get on the edge and get them loosened.

+1

 

and if THAT fails, dremel a slot for a sturdy screwdriver 

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

Remove the ignition.  In an area that is not visible when mounted, is the key number (like A47 or D16).  Get that key made.  That low mileage of a bike, all the other keyed items should still match.

Sorry, keys AND ignition switch are long gone. I need ignition w/ key at the very least and bonus for tank and seat lock. 

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you need to get into tank, tho, right?

 

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24 minutes ago, Dutchy said:

+1

 

and if THAT fails, dremel a slot for a sturdy screddriver 

Seat lock is already removed - I just don’t have a key for it.

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3 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

you need to get into tank, tho, right?

 

Yes, of course but I can drill that out if needed and find a keyed replacement or go with keyless aftermarket. 

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What I am saying, is, they key number stamped into the seat lock is very likely the same for the cap.  Get that key made.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

What I am saying, is, they key number stamped into the seat lock is very likely the same for the cap.  Get that key made.

 

 

Ahh, got it. I’ll do that. What about ignition assembly? Is there a source for such things? My hondaparts supplier for OEM is zero. Europe?

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You should be able to find an ignition switch.  Probably aftermarket.  And you can then go 2 keys.  Or I have had a key cut with each number on opposite sides.  The locks only use one side.  The stock keys are cut on both sides for convenience.

 

Here's an example of the switch, aftermarket.  This isn't THE ONE, just an example.  Although, I do believe this one would work.

Ignition Switch Aftermarket

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If at the end of the day you didn't want to go two keys, a decent locksmith could re-pin the locks so they take the same key. It isn't actually difficult to do but you need access to a variety of pins to do it. 

But I suspect that is a long way in the future. Good luck with the rebuild, bike looks solid.

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5 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

You should be able to find an ignition switch.  Probably aftermarket.  And you can then go 2 keys.  Or I have had a key cut with each number on opposite sides.  The locks only use one side.  The stock keys are cut on both sides for convenience.

 

Here's an example of the switch, aftermarket.  This isn't THE ONE, just an example.  Although, I do believe this one would work.

Ignition Switch Aftermarket

Does this look like the thing? Says for a cb600f ‘87

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332602537716

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4 hours ago, jeremyr62 said:

If at the end of the day you didn't want to go two keys, a decent locksmith could re-pin the locks so they take the same key. It isn't actually difficult to do but you need access to a variety of pins to do it. 

But I suspect that is a long way in the future. Good luck with the rebuild, bike looks solid.

That’s a great idea. If I ever re-sell it, I’d rather not need to explain why the keys are different. I’ve got a good locksmith nearby and I picked up a couple blanks and will get them cut to match the seat lock (and presumably the tank) on Monday. Thanks!

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7 hours ago, Dutchy said:

Being a VFR700 (and not a VF....) cams shoudl be ok. But I'd inspect them 1st prior to pouring serious money into her.....

👍

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I’ve been poking around looking at fairings. If my goal is original replication, whose got the best product? I guess nobody offers a finish painted option? To do it right,  I’ll need both left and right lowers and the seat cowl. The rest of the plastic is really good so there is plenty of incentive to stay with the stock look but I could be convinced to pull it all off and go with a full aftermarket hot rod look too. Thoughts please?

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I’m personally not a slave to OEM. What’s the point? Top trumps? 

 

No, if I were you I’d build the bike I want. The one I dream of. This is your chance to do just that. 

 

I can understand keeping original spec on a well-preserved vehicle but this one presents you with a blank slate. 

 

Race fairings on AirTech look really cool...

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Ok, I’ll admit to being a bit of an OEM slave. My thinking is that you have to be pretty damn good to do better than Soichiro! Plus, part of what motivates me is preserving these bikes as they were intended. That said, it isn’t always practical (nor as much fun) as digging in and modding-out. From a standard of perfection, this bike is pretty rough for as low mileage as it is but if it’s a good running motor and suffers little from age, I think it could be a candidate to return to stock and very presentable condition. It won’t be me who makes it a show bike; I collect these bikes to ride after all. Alternatively,  some of the items in great shape on this bike (exhaust, upper and mid fairings) could be sold to fund some engine work and tuning improvements. Hard to say - let’s see if it runs first!

 

Got the keys cut today and gratefully it also worked for the fill cover (although I was sweating at first because it was quite stuck). I looked inside and... not too bad!

 

Any reason not to fill it up with my vinegar wash for a couple days? 

 

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

Thanks! I just discovered V4dreams and have been “researching” there a bit. Looks like Mr. Nelson has found a KIA paint that’s a very good match for the ‘86 white pearl. That’s encouraging! If my rear cowl is cracked but complete, is it acceptable to repair and repaint it or does that detract significantly from the value going forward? I’m pretty inexperienced with VFR’s and “the rules”.

Edited by Counterbalance
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