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Lost rear sprocket whle riding.


VFR4Lee

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Partzilla with the fail, so far. Ordered 2 gaskets and a rivet link. Computer said gaskets in stock, link available 10/16. Then it went to 10/13, but still not shipped. Had a chat with them online, the link is back ordered no ship date. They could not find me another that was right, so I said cancel that, send me the gaskets.

Ordered a link from motochains.com $4.xx + $10 shipping. :rolleyes:

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Over on the german vfr forum, a member suffered the same fate, albeit without the damage to the front.

 

Today I met a 4th gen rider, the nut on the axle was NOT staked.... 

 

Check yer nuts folks!!!

 

:-)

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A dose of red Loctite would do the trick, but you'd have to heat it up to get it off.

 

Pull the little plastic axle cap off, and throw it away. Makes it much easier to check the nut stake, and as a bonus it's less unsprung weight. 

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I don't think there is a problem with properly staked nuts becoming un-staked.

 

Ciao,

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4 hours ago, JZH said:

I don't think there is a problem with properly staked nuts becoming un-staked.

 

Ciao,

 

There was with mine. It had backed off nearly a full turn before I caught it.

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18 hours ago, MBrane said:

There was with mine. It had backed off nearly a full turn before I caught it.

 

Red Loctite it is, then... :tongue:

 

Ciao,

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Thank you motochains for sending a link ordered Friday that arrived today Monday and says right on it EX530 SROZ.

Boo Partzilla, still no confirmation my gaskets are shipped. Guess I will have to use the phone.

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Mine was torqued properly (and it was a new nut) and staked. It did move slightly so I re-staked it. The notch that the staking goes into is about 1/8" wide. I had staked it at one side of the notch, and it moved to the other side of the notch. I staked it into the whole width of the notch, no more movement so far. I check it regularly.

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On October 9, 2016 at 7:21 PM, VFR4Lee said:

Thx Kev. This new chain is endless. it would need unriveting. So maybe this is an easier way.

All you have to do is remove the LH footpeg bracket and the chain guard and you can install your new endless chain without breaking it. 

 

I reversed my my swingarm pivot bolt to have the nut on the LH side to make this easier in the future. 

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On October 9, 2016 at 0:01 PM, zoomzoom said:

Unfortunately, I wish this was the case.  The chain routes through the gap between the upper and lower mounting bolts on the drivers side foot peg mount.  The lower foot rest bolt just goes in to the side of the engine case but, the main mount is the swing-arm pivot bolt.  Having just removed the swing arm on my parts bike, I don't see how the chain can be removed in one piece without removing the swing arm pivot bolt.

 

Reverse the swingarm pivot bolt so that the nut is on the LH side of the bike. 

 

Problem solved. 

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  • 2 months later...

After a hiatus of Holidays, expensive car repairs (really Honda?), and other pitas, I took a ride last weekend to borrow the chain tool and Duc2V4's 46 mm socket from CaptBob. Thanks guys. Finally got the old chain off today, no sweat with the tool. At F'ing last.

 

Been trying to separate the axle from the brake disc, 4 bolts, so I can change the axle which has damaged threads for the 46mm nut. Penetrating oil stuff isn't cutting it. With it off the bike it's hard to get much force on the ratchet. I have to hold the disc and axle with one hand and try to turn ratchet with the other. :unsure:

 

Thinking to get a heat gun which could have more than 1 use, but don't know it would do much good removing these bolts that have been in place since 1998.

I see Harbor Freight now has a $22 air impact wrench, plus $25 impact sockets, I might have to go there, even though might not use it again. Any thoughts on what's easier or better would be appreciated.

 

As for the counter sprocket end of things, I think I'm about ready to try and re assemble. But, how clean and free of old gasket material is clean enough?

The piece on the left has some small green bits that really resist removal with plastic scraper. The piece on the right needs more work, for sure.

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It's more important that the gasket surfaces are flat, and clean than it is to get every last little bit of old gasket off. If it's stuck that good chances are it's not gonna leak as long as it's clean, and flat. I use a flat blade exacto to scrape gaskets on stuff like that, but you have to be very careful to not gouge the aluminum which is easy to do if you get carried away. Wipe off surfaces with brake cleaner, let dry. I apply a thin coat of Gasgacinch to the cover, and cover side of the gasket basically glueing the gasket to the cover. I then apply a light coat of oil to the case side before assembly. Makes things come apart easy, and not have to replace the gasket every time.

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2 hours ago, VFR4Lee said:

Thinking to get a heat gun which could have more than 1 use, but don't know it would do much good removing these bolts that have been in place since 1998.

I see Harbor Freight now has a $22 air impact wrench, plus $25 impact sockets, I might have to go there, even though might not use it again. Any thoughts on what's easier or better would be appreciated.

 

Their cheap electric impact has done me well on most things. 

 

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See those four little "fulcrums" on the hub?  Use them!

20160325_140608x.jpg

 

Without the swing arm to hold the hub and brace against, you're not going to have it quite so easy, but as Archimedes would say, nothing can resist a long-enough lever.

 

Ciao,

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22 hours ago, MBrane said:

It's more important that the gasket surfaces are flat, and clean than it is to get every last little bit of old gasket off. If it's stuck that good chances are it's not gonna leak as long as it's clean, and flat.

 

Thanks. Using a plastic scraper from Harbor Fright. I can't feel the bits of gasket with my fingertip, so it is smooth. No intention of ever taking it apart again.
 

13 hours ago, JZH said:

See those four little "fulcrums" on the hub?  Use them!

 

The hub is not attached, it's brake disc and axle only. Hard to handle and actually put force into. :comp13:

 

Don't know that it will work, but got a heat gun. Will try to clamp the parts down and give it another go later.

If it doesn't work, I can still use it to strip old paint in the house, and buy the impact.

 

 

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Regardless of how you attack the bolts you will still have to figure out a way to hold the axle.  Can you put it back in the hub, and the hub back in the swing arm, just temporarily?

 

Ciao,

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Hmm. Maybe that could work.  :unsure:

 

The 4 bolts by the lugs holding the disc to the axle, I'm thinking need to be loosened from the side with the nuts. So, the left side, next to the swingarm.

But maybe I should loosen from the bolt head side. Access is easier if it's on the bike. Not sure. Don't want to go in the cold garage after work right now.

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7 hours ago, VFR4Lee said:

Hmm. Maybe that could work.  :unsure:

 

The 4 bolts by the lugs holding the disc to the axle, I'm thinking need to be loosened from the side with the nuts. So, the left side, next to the swingarm.

But maybe I should loosen from the bolt head side. Access is easier if it's on the bike. Not sure. Don't want to go in the cold garage after work right now.

Cold garage?  In California?  Oh, please!

 

Yes, you would need to loosen the nut-side, but there should be room to get a box-end wrench on them.  They're M6, so they'll either snap loose or snap in two with out too much ado...

 

Ciao,

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High of 52 degrees F yesterday and was 32 F when I got up this AM.

Colder than I want to deal with. :wink:

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I needed to replace my rear disk (and all the other components - arrrgh) and could not find a tool to separate the axle studs from the disk. I called my Honda shops service adviser and he said the bolt heads are a special (ever so slightly different) size and countersunk to prevent a mistake by a rookie like me when replacing the disk. So I bought the disk already mounted to the axle as a unit, on his recommendation. He also price-matched online sellers. What a guy!

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30 minutes ago, MaxSwell said:

I needed to replace my rear disk (and all the other components - arrrgh) and could not find a tool to separate the axle studs from the disk. I called my Honda shops service adviser and he said the bolt heads are a special (ever so slightly different) size and countersunk to prevent a mistake by a rookie like me when replacing the disk. So I bought the disk already mounted to the axle as a unit, on his recommendation. He also price-matched online sellers. What a guy!

 

You're confusing me. The bolt heads are countersunk but a 12mm socket fits fine. 14mm for the nuts. If they break on removal it's OK. The replacement parts have those 4 bolts and nuts included.

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