30Bones Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Bought my 99 last October, The PO only owned it a short time and stated "The PO redid much of the troublesome VFR R/R wiring and replaced it and added a fan." Unsure what "much" means, Well the battery died a few weeks ago and I replaced it, get home and put it on a tender for a solid week. The bike has a volt meter wired into it and visible on the lower left faring. I noticed today while commuting down the highway it was at 11 volts. This is making me nervous since it was at 13 this past weekend when me and the wife were out. So where does one begin to start trouble shooting this and finding out what might be wrong? I am not electrical nerd, I have a manual. Heck the R/R might have gone bad again for all I know. I replaced this on my 94 years ago with one from an R1 which was HUGE and solved all my issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 R/R that's on it now is SH579A-11 which after a quick google appears it's a stock piece Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted May 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 21, 2014 Sure sounds like the R/R is bad, but also could be the stator connection plug, which have been known to melt down. Best thing to do is check the plug, then check the stator output, windings resistance, and then check the actual voltage at the battery while the bike is running. I replaced my R/R with the updated model and it seems to be working okay. I also installed the VFRness from WireMyBike. So far I've had no more problems. Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 21, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 21, 2014 ^^ +1 The 5th gens are notorious for eating R/Rs. What's the mileage on the bike? And well, one more time...... Sorry for your electrical troubles. Well, looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.” Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that! Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too. Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.) - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart. - Repeat hot. This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it. Plenty of guys have got to the point using the "drill." http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Get the all the numbers and come back with it. G/L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Removed the RR and diode tested it per Roadsterscycle. Low 500's and zero same as his tests. Same with the stator. Put it all back together and the batter wasn't able to fire it off. It's on the tender now. Brand new battery but I don't suspect the battery yet as it was doing this on the old battery also. Time to dig deeper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 I'll do your list when I have more time. Thanks a bunch. Sure wish it was the RR but I can't say with confidence it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer maxredline Posted May 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 22, 2014 Begin with the grounds! Search FI light on this forum. Start with the wiring harness; the ground junction block (orange in colour) solder it together, then cut the egu grounds and secure them to the frame. Then consider the Vfrness mod from http://www.wiremybike.com/vfr-specific-parts-2000-2001-vfr-parts-c-1_4.html It should only take a small amount of time to enjoy a pile. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/71640-fi-light/?hl=%2Bfi+%2Blight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 I think my bike has the VFRness already installed. I will do more digging this weekend if I have time. Appreciate all the help to get this nailed down and reliable. Even if I find the solution, I will probably buy the setup fro mRoadsterscycle for reassurance. I don't trust the OEM RR even if it tests out fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Oh and bike has 28,000 on it now. Bought it last October with 26,000 and did a fly n ride from Dc to Iowa in a weekend. Then it was pretty much parked for the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Always start with the easiest stuff, and work your way up the difficulty tree. My bike's PO had done some 'custom' electrical related to a hacksaw fender eliminator and dynotune. Soldering up that poor connection helped. But I had to replace the R/R (R1 model), grounds, and clean up connections. Pup's been performing nicely since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted May 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 22, 2014 I've never been able to successfully test a faulty RR as faulty, it's always been a process of elimination for me. I'm interested to know what the stator puts out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted May 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 22, 2014 I've never been able to successfully test a faulty RR as faulty, it's always been a process of elimination for me. I'm interested to know what the stator puts out. I am able to reliably test regulators, but I use a really nice Fluke meter. Having a good meter is key to measuring resistances/diagnosing a regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 22, 2014 I think my bike has the VFRness already installed. I will do more digging this weekend if I have time. Appreciate all the help to get this nailed down and reliable. Even if I find the solution, I will probably buy the setup fro mRoadsterscycle for reassurance. I don't trust the OEM RR even if it tests out fine. Some photos of what you have would be useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lorne Posted May 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 22, 2014 Don't forget to check the starter relay - and pull off the rubber boot to get a good look. The relay itself is probably fine, but the charging path from reg/rec to the battery goes through it's connections. Here is what my '92's failed relay looked like: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 I've never been able to successfully test a faulty RR as faulty, it's always been a process of elimination for me. I'm interested to know what the stator puts out. I am able to reliably test regulators, but I use a really nice Fluke meter. Having a good meter is key to measuring resistances/diagnosing a regulator. I have a super cheap HF meter. I think my bike has the VFRness already installed. I will do more digging this weekend if I have time. Appreciate all the help to get this nailed down and reliable. Even if I find the solution, I will probably buy the setup fro mRoadsterscycle for reassurance. I don't trust the OEM RR even if it tests out fine. Some photos of what you have would be useful.I'll do my best this weekend to get some pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Checked the RR tonight and it's bad. Checked it again with a different multi meter and it read 0 0 0 0 0 0 853 853 0 0 852 853 Parts are ordered. Bummed I won't be riding this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 RR replaced with roadstercycle's piece tonight and all is well. 13.8V on my test ride. Thanks for all the help. My intuition was spot on it appears. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 Well I have a few hundred miles on the new rectifier and I was riding it to the doctor yesterday and it died in stop/go traffic just sitting there at idle. Look at the volt meter and it's ~9V CRAP among other words. Hit the start button and without a hiccup fires right off. Now my head is racing wondering what could be wrong. Leave Dr to head home on 40 miles of 2 lane highway and notice my tach needle is going from 5500rpms then just falling down to the 1-2000 range and bouncing around. I goose it and it pops back up, My volt meter is way more erratic than usual going from a low of 8 to a high of 18 (it cycles really fast so it's hard to get exact numbers). Bike seems to run out great, I get on it and it sings like a gear driven cam Honda should. I still can't break 40mpg even when I cruise at 60mph or less for an entire tank. I am guessing I have more wiring issues to track down so next rainy weekend I plan to strip it down and get really familiar with Ol Red and maybe even sync the TB's and change plugs/wires. This is the down side to buying a 15yo bike with little to no history on it and who knows how many many previous owners. I wonder if a carfax would generate that info? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 25, 2014 stator !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted June 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 25, 2014 ^^^^ I'm inclined to agree - if you have a brand new FH020aa R/R and installed per instructions, absolutely test the stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blainerides Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 ^^^^ I'm inclined to agree - if you have a brand new FH020aa R/R and installed per instructions, absolutely test the stator.Check resistance to ground from each stator output wire. Did you solder the connections, by the way? Or new connector? Check your ground terminals? Spray on some De-oxIT or similar electronic contact cleaner, like EVERYWHERE, and take my advice and even if your stator is ok, now, get an OEM stator coming (and gasket), because you'll eventually need it. They don't last forever!Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 I checked the stator when I had it apart for the RR and it checked out. I'm betting a ground issue or worse yet the stator like you guys mentioned. Time to price THAT part or have it rewound. I can tackle any fix, but electrical is my crutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blainerides Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I checked the stator when I had it apart for the RR and it checked out. I'm betting a ground issue or worse yet the stator like you guys mentioned. Time to price THAT part or have it rewound. I can tackle any fix, but electrical is my crutch.Did you just do a continuity test, on each phase? All were infinity?Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 From what I recall yes. I followed roadster cycles videos. Edit: I also cut the connector from the factor RR and spliced that to the new unit so it would be removable if needed. No solder, just quality butt connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted June 27, 2014 Author Share Posted June 27, 2014 Looks well "burnt". Getting the wiring pigtail out was by far the hardest part. Sending it out tmrw for rewinding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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