NoobMaskim Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 900RR footrests are a direct bolt on for the 4th gen. I have done it myself. Direct, as in, direct. No filing or re-drilling or "it's close so just hammer that bolt in". Also, you may be able to space the footrest away from the frame using custom spacers and longer bolts to clear the pipe? Maybe? My thoughts exactly on spacing it out, ill just get some pipe annd bring it out about a inch or so, then find some longer bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Ok guys small update on my plans with this bike ~~ First off THANK YOU ALL for the information you have provided for me. I have ordered new gasket picked up some for-a-gasket going to juice the original gasket up JUST A HAIR to be sure. I am going to replace that run it awhile at least a month while I get my garage cleaned out (eventually to tear the bike down to clean it). If the gas get back in the oil i'll know I have a issue. This bike sat for months in the weather, I forgot to turn off the cutoff valve for the fuel several times for as long as an hr. (not sure if it was the cause or not)? I have ordered the stock 900rr bracket & brake assembly, this LOOKS very close and as Seb said ill throw a spacer in there to bring it out a hair if needed. I have ordered a cbr1000rr light, this I am not sure im going to use. Really like the LSL Urban SF Light Andy has on his bike and a few other guys. Andys build when it was nearly finished all black and red sitting in the drive way i thought looked the best and may be a endgame for me. May make a interchangable 1000rr fairing style & a SF style to mix things up. Anyone tell me the fork size, I believe we've come to the agreement these are 954rr forks? I've read 50mm, Confirm? (Digi calipers in the mail) So once I get the brake the light and gauges squared away gtg it should be around the time, I can get it tore down inspected, cleaned, painted and back together. And a new subframe & seat as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 900RR and 929RR footrests are NOT the same. You need the 93-98 CBR900RR parts. Come to think of it, I believe I have some spare VFR footrests that would work for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 900RR and 929RR footrests are NOT the same. You need the 93-98 CBR900RR parts. Come to think of it, I believe I have some spare VFR footrests that would work for you. Oops mistype meant ordered the 99 900rr footrest & brake assembly from the link above that we talked about. But as you say it's not going to work? Mind throwing a picture up might take those off your hands if/when these dont work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2014 why not just run the pipe under the tail ? the swing arm has HUGE space for you run the exhaust through and then your foot peg problems are over.. of course you will have to play with the tail then.. how ever it will look better . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 I personally like it on the side ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2014 I personally like it on the side ;) then chop the header pipe and add a proper that clears your foot peg. youre making an awful lot of work for a 10 minute job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 You're right. These were also thoughts I had going to pick up a welder soon and possibly do that if all else fails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Data point, 2007-2008 R1 footpegs also have the correct spacing to work on a 3rd or 4th Gen frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Edit, answered my own question =P (Search bar working as intended) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erbilabuc Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Data point, 2007-2008 R1 footpegs also have the correct spacing to work on a 3rd or 4th Gen frame. the swing arm is the biggest obstacle you have. these are R1 aftermarket rear sets on my 95 I say do not buy a Koso because the Honda gauges will last longer exposed to sun and the wiring is simpler I think. I guess Id rather have a somewhat OEM part because they were cheaper and easier for me to find/replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keef Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I've had an ace well ( cheap like a koso) on my vfr8 fighter for the last few years, it's been brilliant. Easy to wire up, too. The only let down is that it didn't have an in built temp sensor. And what are those rearsets, NM? Ducti 996? Not many bikes have the brake lever separate from the rear set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Bit of an update, I got my brake together and bled. It's a tight fit but works well. I got my 1000rr nose fairing & headlight in also 1 mid fairing. Once I get the other side and the inner fairing all that should go on like a glove or so I hope. And the next HUGE OBSTACLE. Will be wiring up my Koso gauge. Andy is going to love me bugging the shit out of him ;) Oh and a little road block. I changed the oil in it. Now my clutch wont engage, my son was playing with the shifter, but dont think that's the cause, believe I need to take the synthetic out (Read it's to slippery in a lot of cases) and put some rotella T dino 10w40 in it? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer apexandy Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 Without getting too technical (I'm not the right person for that when it comes to oil) you definitely shouldn't run oil that has additives known to create issues with motorcycle clutches. Is the synthetic you installed motorcycle oil? It should be fine if it is. Even if it isn't, I find it strange your clutch won't engage… do you mean it struggles to engage fully (lots of slipping) or there is some sort of mechanical issue and no engine power is reaching the rear wheel?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 It physically stalls out the clutch has excellent pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Strip the clutch slave cylinder down and clean it up - new fluid might be enough, but if the piston seal in the slave looks suspect, put an overhaul kit through it, the kit is cheap. Start by undoing the slave cylinder from the front sprocket cover (two bolts), then hold it over a bucket and pump the clutch till the piston falls into the bucket. Remove the master cylinder cap, drain the fluid, clean the master out with a rag (watch for the little stainless steel dooverlacker that sits over the outlet hole), then refill and bleed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Thanks for the advice. That will be the next thing I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Just need to get rotella dino oil? 10w40? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 Just need to get rotella dino oil? 10w40? Yep .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Well so far no good about to pull the slave apart Can't get the piston to fall out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2014 200lbs of air pressure should do it .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Take the cap off the master cylinder and put a rag over it (in case it squirts fluid all over the place), then pump the clutch lever - the fluid will be pumped into the slave cylinder but not return to the master, and that should force the piston out. Just watch out for flying fluid, not good for eyes or paint - cover everything in rags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 We're talking about the piston on the slave correct? I did all that it'd come out half way and thats it I didnt want to stick pliers on there for fear on damaging or knicking the smooth surface Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2014 Fluid side has rusted you mite as well pull it out with pliers. More then likely gonna have to replace it .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 I just replaced this thing very recently. when I popped it off the piston was pumping? Should it pump farther that half way, or what I thought was half way. Is this why my bike will grind & die as if the clutch needed bleeding, not sure the proper terminology . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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