mcrwt644 Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 The part that most frequently goes is the back portion of the clutch. I have not ordered any parts as of yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Are all these hondas them same threads size & pitch for the bleeder screws? IE 900rr 929 954 . Believe my rear bleeder screw is bad, cant get the rear brake bled , so I broke down and got a mityvac. Noticed before I even cracked the bleeder nipple it was drawing fluid with about 15 psi. I guess I can just throw the calipers on it tomorrow and order one. But while im replacing 1 may as well replace them all. Also the clutch is getting spongy. My guess is the hose has a pin hole leak or less. Unless the slave coincidentally has the same issue as the last. I think im going rebuild the slave and get a new hydraulic hose to boot. The rear caliper is 99 900rr & the front is 954 I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I have a new-in-the-box Goodrich smoke color stainless steel clutch line for a 3rd/4th gen. Make me an offer via pm if interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 I'm impressed that you got the starter clutch in one! Well, FWIW, you can probably ride for a while with a cracked one. The one on my 3rd-gen only screeches occasionally. Ciao, No issue what so ever today. Was coldish again. Next oil change im going to pop the cover off and inspect unless it gets worse. I have a gasket on standby anyhow. Your passenger pegs are mounted wrong. The guy who sent the subframe had sent them installed like this in a huge box, I figured they were backwards just by the way they should fold back and scratches were on the top of the pegs. They're coming off anyhow my girls scared of my bike lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 If you put the bike on the side stand, you can remove the clutch cover without draining or losing any oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Good food for thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Are CNC good solid levers? The ones I got are going to be replaced they're cheap, can just tell by the looseness and wobble while pressing the levers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 Ok update, bolts on starter clutch are tight, no obvious cracks on the outside of it like shown in relative pictures, I bolted it back up and put it on the back burner. I did have some rust on the inside of the cover, I cleaned it up I think is was due to my ignorance in cleaning it last time with the water hose, I dried it off before reinstalling. I replaced the needles that come in for the carbs, also changed the plugs. bike isnt running right, going to check gaps, read that people were not gapping the iridium plugs and just put them in the bike, but all the power is gone and rides like a little 250. About to go out and change some stuff up.Also installed the spedometer off of the Koso DB-02R which isnt working correctly, the sensor is within 1mm of the magnets but only registering 3mph while going 30. I set the gauge to 6p ( 6 magnets ) and the motor setting was -4p or something. 4 pistons.Some other work done, installed some spools on the rear that sit well.Dropped the oil cooler down to avoid hitting my lights, was putting everything in a bind under there.Made a bracket for my rear brake resevoir. Cleaned up the wiring harness.Cut out the bottom of my old race fairings and drilled into my new mid fairings so it'd close up the bottom. Kinda connects the bottom of the V.Took it for a test drive and some guy offered me 2 grand for it, I laughed. He told me his uncle got 1 just like it for $1500 and I said "Oh yeah"?Haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I think you are getting too far ahead of yourself. Take a deep breath and a step back. Make small adjustments or changes, one at a time. Change and re gap the plugs. Take for ride. Not better? Move to the next step Not sure why you changed the needles, but that is my guess as to why you lost power. What were the needles out of? The taper of the needles will determine fuel delivery when they come into play. I'd clean and polish the old needles and re install them and go from there. When you make too many changes, you start chasing your tail. It's very much like a computer, if you install a bunch of programs and alter the Operating System without doing some testing, you need to revert back to the last known good configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Yeah I understand. I changed the needles as I was getting fuel in my oil. Granted I'm not anymore. I did it just because. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk I checked the old plugs. They were not gapped according to the book slightly less. The new plugs were on the money according to the book Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Needles were off eBay seemed right as I compared them Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Also loose connection in my fuse box. Anyone had this before? It's not the crimp itself is the connection moving up and down on the fuse legs Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer apexandy Posted April 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 20, 2014 I believe he is talking about the needle valves… not the slide needles. Correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Yes Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 what brand needle did you get? some brands do not have adequate springs in them to properly rebound the float. Your float levels may be low Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I'm sorry I replaced the float needle Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk I was told that I should do it for preventative maintenance Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Ok update, bolts on starter clutch are tight, no obvious cracks on the outside of it like shown in relative pictures, I bolted it back up and put it on the back burner. I did have some rust on the inside of the cover, I cleaned it up I think is was due to my ignorance in cleaning it last time with the water hose, I dried it off before reinstalling. Rust on the inside of the cover could simply be from the bike sitting around before you got it, and moisture inside the motor rusting anything that didn't have a coating of oil. That plate the rust is on is a pressed metal plate that is bolted inside the alloy housing, presumably to reduce clutch noise - I ditched the one on mine when I replaced my clutch. As for the starter clutch, what you see from the outside is simply another pressed metal housing, the starter clutch body sits inside that and that's the bit that cracks. The tightness of the three bolts has nothing to do with the condition of the starter clutch body. You have to remove the whole housing and turn it over to determine whether the body is cracked or not. Handle all those parts carefully, there is a small metal pin that sits in a hole in the other side of the starter clutch - I have no idea what it is for, but if its there it needs to stay there for reassembly. Watch out for that. And when you pull the housing from the body the three pins and springs that hold the rollers in place will also want to go elsewhere, like to the darkest hardest to reach corner of the workshop, so again - do it in a bucket or something that will catch the bits that make a break for freedom when you disassemble the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Believe they said on the write up the pin that lines up is for the timing. Think 1 guy over looked it and bike wouldn't crank Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Also my fuse. Tried to get a small screw driver in there. Couldn't ever get it tight. I ordered a In line fuse holder I'm going to fix it with. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Took it for a ride with the old plugs. I think it's still sluggish. Then went out that night didn't touch it Sunday was recouping lol. Today my plan is to warm the bike up really well get it right and take it for a spin. Neighbors told me of a good road behind the house I didn't know about where they run their bikes Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Let it out for some air the other day. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobMaskim Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Since then I made a piece to hold the bottom of the mid's fairing together so it looks better and wont scrape while turning =P Still need swap the passenger pegs ( take them off) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 OK so finally took the carbs back out. And reinstalled the old float needles. Bike still has poor acceleration and a little less back firing. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk what brand needle did you get? some brands do not have adequate springs in them to properly rebound the float. Your float levels may be low the new needles had tons more spring action than the old ones. But I bought them off eBay and I'm sure they're not name brandSent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Is there a way to tell if my carb boots are leaking? They look a tad tore up where the carb sits and hard as a rock. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I talked to a shop owner about aftermarket needle valves. He said that the spring in them is too strong. Whether I believe that or not is up for debate. Is the poor acceleration at all rpms? could you have a vacuum leak somewhere? Is the bike De Paired? Are you running on all 4 cylinders? An easy way to test that is to take a spray bottle with water in it and hit each pipe to see if they are equally hot. When I have a set of carbs apart, I'll take a bit of mother's metal polish to where the vacuum slides are and give them a good going over. Helps with the movement of the slides. Are you getting enough fuel? Does the bike run alright at an idle and take throttle readily? Your fuel pump could be going south on you. Is the fuel filter clogged? I think the fuel filter (oem) is like $12 or there about. Check your fuel lines for any sort of crud. Did the bike run well, aka did it have enough power before? Could you possibly need a jet kit? There is a company out there (the name escapes me) that has a kit for like $55 shipped. I've heard good things about them. Are you running the correct plugs? Are all the coil caps seated on the plugs? Are you running a slip on? How about the air filter, how is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I talked to a shop owner about aftermarket needle valves. He said that the spring in them is too strong. Whether I believe that or not is up for debate. Is the poor acceleration at all rpms? could you have a vacuum leak somewhere? Is the bike De Paired? Are you running on all 4 cylinders? An easy way to test that is to take a spray bottle with water in it and hit each pipe to see if they are equally hot. When I have a set of carbs apart, I'll take a bit of mother's metal polish to where the vacuum slides are and give them a good going over. Helps with the movement of the slides. Are you getting enough fuel? Does the bike run alright at an idle and take throttle readily? Your fuel pump could be going south on you. Is the fuel filter clogged? I think the fuel filter (oem) is like $12 or there about. Check your fuel lines for any sort of crud. Did the bike run well, aka did it have enough power before? Could you possibly need a jet kit? There is a company out there (the name escapes me) that has a kit for like $55 shipped. I've heard good things about them. Are you running the correct plugs? Are all the coil caps seated on the plugs? Are you running a slip on? How about the air filter, how is it? Haven't ran it passed 2nd because in not bolting the whole front end up and got things and wires hanging. But from what I noticed first gear is sluggish. The bike idles what I think is better than ever after bench syncing but seems it may take a few more minutes to warm it up. Air filter is clean. Out the back of the air box there is a hose that runs to the side to another filter type deal. What is this? The bike is De paired. The throttle is decently responsive. And the bike is gravity fed. Fuel pump is gone. I can check the fuel filter but I just cleaned the tank and put a new float and filter in it not too long ago. Fuel lines could be a factor. I'm wondering about the jet kit. The bike ran crisp before I replaced those float needles. The old plugs say NGK and the new ones are iridium plugs. And yes I checked over the caps to double check. Awesome response. Think I'll check cylinders and fuel lines today. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer apexandy Posted April 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 25, 2014 Not sure this would cause the poor performance you are describing, but what are your pilot mixture screws set at? This will affect how long it takes for the bike to warm up and your off idle response. I would probably start at 2 turns out if your are running stock jets. Your bike should run great with stock jetting, so scratch the jet kit off the list as a requirement to get it running right (although down the road it may give a little positive gain). What about all the vacuum lines going to the carbs? If it seems like the bike doesn't want to rev very well it could be linked the vacuum line running to the carbs, make sure all the hoses are connected properly. CV carbs need vacuum to operate correctly. The hose that goes to the little box beside the air box is the carb slide "filter". You can open it up and check to make sure the foam isn't plugged… maybe clean it like you would a dirt bike foam filter and oil it with the right filter oil. But I doubt it's causing an issue. Have you moved your ignition coils? Are they grounded? Not sure this would cause issues but the factory wiring diagram indicates the body of the coils should be grounded to the frame. Was the bike running on gravity feed before when it was running fine? I've never tried gravity feed but maybe someone else can indicate wether it is possible it's causing an issue. Though I doubt it. How much fuel is in the tank? Have you filled the oil level correctly? Sorry… just throwing out ideas. Bike looks good… and I just remembered you PMed about my koso gauge settings. You still need that info? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted April 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 25, 2014 Never done it, but from what I've read the gravity feed only affects operation if you are running high speeds for prolonged periods of time. How do your carb diaphrams look? If they aren't seated correctly or torn, that could be bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Diaphragms looked good the first time I took the carbs out. Hadn't messed with them since then. Just messed with the bowls and floats. As for the wiring. Haven't messed with any of that but the gut did have a bunch of grounds crimped under an eye I found and put to the frame awhile back which fixed something up front. The coil packs have been moved the 2 in the rear are under the seat and the 2 up front are connected to the radiator in a sense. Above it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk I'll look over the vacuum lines there is 4 right 1 per carburetor? I've seen them and assumed the we're for syncing the carbs Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Actually Andy my tach quit working all together. Not sure what I did to it. There was a loose connection on the main 20 in the fuse box. I actually ended up buying a different harness that I'm going to either replace mine with or get the fuse box off of. Any way I had a blown fuse on the 2nd 10 which I really haven't gone through the book but the old fuse box layout of the fuses is faded. Long story short sometime in that period my tach quit working Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Haven't had time to look at the tach but more concerned about my acceleration than my digital tach. Who needs a tach on a 750 that runs like a 250 anyway Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 I had an f3 that was gravity fed. It would rev fine, but it wouldn't run for cr@p otherwise in any gear. I prefer what the engineers at Honda set the bike up with vs what we may come up with unless we have degrees in such fields. AKA, they know best in most situations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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