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Ok, Second Try For A Non-Shunt Type R/r


coderighter

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A few years I went for a Compu-fire R/R even thou my current R/R worked fine. I know,.... why? Well, it seems so stupid that changing system has to go 100%, 100% of the time.

Well last weekend the Compu-fire died. Details here- http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/74088-my-compu-fire-regulator-died-today/

I decided to give it a second shot with a Cycle Electrics R/R. Details here- roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle Series Regulators.htm

I ordered it Sunday night and got it yesterday. First thing I noticed was it's size, huge. It's about twice the size of the Compu-fire and some what larger than the factory R/R.

Reg2

Reg1

I've got the home made adapter plate cut, drilled, tapped, and mounted. I just need to pick up some 1/4-20 socket allen heads on the way home from work tomorrow. Should be able to light it off this weekend.

Reg3

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So the only point we have to mount a heat sink with cooling fins is right over the freaking radiator! No wonder we have problems with these things...

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So the only point we have to mount a heat sink with cooling fins is right over the freaking radiator! No wonder we have problems with these things...

When using the newer MOSFET units its not nearly as critical to get a lot of airflow. You can mount them pretty much anywhere you want, they run a LOT cooler.

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Jeez that is kinda huge, wonder if it gets hot. I think its a different technology vs the CF.

Hope it works out for you.

:cool:

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Well, got it in there, no problem.

Reg4



Started it, popped right up to 14.4V. After it got warm, idle was at 14.5v +/- .2 to 10k. With fan on and high beams, 13.6v at ildle 14.3v at 4k and R/R stayed cool. All looks good.

A note about the 'kit'. I didn't use the 'circuit beaker' provided, I used a fuse. The circuit breaker is a shortstop type and won't trip until approx 50% over current is reached. These aren't really something that could over current without a direct short. The bike's wiring is kind of border line as it is. I'll carry an extra fuse.
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So the only point we have to mount a heat sink with cooling fins is right over the freaking radiator! No wonder we have problems with these things...

Ive yet to see a failure issue with the stock units, Atleast the voltages seen with this new series unit. is close to stock output. I'd like to see how it does loaded with electrical acessories, whether it can keep up.

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So the only point we have to mount a heat sink with cooling fins is right over the freaking radiator! No wonder we have problems with these things...

Ive yet to see a failure issue with the stock units, Atleast the voltages seen with this new series unit. is close to stock output. I'd like to see how it does loaded with electrical acessories, whether it can keep up.

Have to be careful with our bikes, you have a limit amount of watts. I think some of our electrical problem come from using to many extra electrical devices, not all but some are caused by this.

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From what I see, running electrical devices is actually benefitting the charging system, and then the shunting of excess voltage is less problamatic, cause it doesnt exist.

Im over 100,000 miles on the vfr , all stock wiring, but I have had to go in and recheck connections and prep them several times during that life, ive avoided any melting issues thus far.

IMO. if you have poor connection areas, and then you try to run acessories, that will make the issue worse, but in general using the excess shunting voltage is actually beneficial from my perspective.

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From what I see, running electrical devices is actually benefitting the charging system, and then the shunting of excess voltage is less problamatic, cause it doesnt exist.

Im over 100,000 miles on the vfr , all stock wiring, but I have had to go in and recheck connections and prep them several times during that life, ive avoided any melting issues thus far.

IMO. if you have poor connection areas, and then you try to run acessories, that will make the issue worse, but in general using the excess shunting voltage is actually beneficial from my perspective.

Running electrical doesn't benefit the charging system, just allows the R/R to run cooler since less current is shunted to ground. The stator is doing the same amount of work regardless of whether the current is 'used' or shunted to ground.

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Coderighter -

1. What is about this new series device that leads you to believe its performance will be different from the one you used before?

2. Do you believe your recent issue was the result of your first series device's inadequacy? Or an unrelated problem with the central fuse?

3. Do you believe the constant high stator output (higher than the HD?) is damaging to these series units, as suggested elsewhere?

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this.

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Harley oem stators, are generally very long life over 50,000 miles. Since the series RR was originally meant for them, have you heard or seen any unburnt long life stators on Harleys using them?

Really, that info would jump the Hypothesy or premise of how well the end result potential would be. I'll check on my end, now that I think about it.

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Coderighter -

1. What is about this new series device that leads you to believe its performance will be different from the one you used before?

2. Do you believe your recent issue was the result of your first series device's inadequacy? Or an unrelated problem with the central fuse?

3. Do you believe the constant high stator output (higher than the HD?) is damaging to these series units, as suggested elsewhere?

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this.

1. Well, the Compu-fire is meant to be used with a Compu-fire stator and isn't supported on anything less. It was try at your own risk. The Cycle Electronics is supported on all 3 phase stators and has a 2 year warranty. The Cycle Electronics is also 50 amp, where the Compu-fire was 40 amps. 40 amps should have been enough, but a little cushion is a good thing.

2. I believe the voltage from the stator was too high at the high engine RPM during my spirited acceleration, but it's hard to say for sure.

3. See 2.

It's my believe that the R/R and stator 'life' should be the same as the bike itself. There is no reason the stator should wear out and need replacement.

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So the only point we have to mount a heat sink with cooling fins is right over the freaking radiator! No wonder we have problems with these things...

The 5th Gen and RC51 are mounted in the tail, which does a fine job of collecting all the heat generated by the rear cylinder(s)! Not much better...

Coderighter -

1. What is about this new series device that leads you to believe its performance will be different from the one you used before?

2. Do you believe your recent issue was the result of your first series device's inadequacy? Or an unrelated problem with the central fuse?

3. Do you believe the constant high stator output (higher than the HD?) is damaging to these series units, as suggested elsewhere?

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this.

1. Well, the Compu-fire is meant to be used with a Compu-fire stator and isn't supported on anything less. It was try at your own risk. The Cycle Electronics is supported on all 3 phase stators and has a 2 year warranty. The Cycle Electronics is also 50 amp, where the Compu-fire was 40 amps. 40 amps should have been enough, but a little cushion is a good thing.

2. I believe the voltage from the stator was too high at the high engine RPM during my spirited acceleration, but it's hard to say for sure.

3. See 2.

It's my believe that the R/R and stator 'life' should be the same as the bike itself. There is no reason the stator should wear out and need replacement.

What, if any, is the difference in the CF stator? A stator is a stator is a stator. No? Not criticizing, I am genuinely asking. I too believe stator life should be as long as the bike. So why am I about to install my third RC51 stator despite using a CF R/R for the last one?

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So the only point we have to mount a heat sink with cooling fins is right over the freaking radiator! No wonder we have problems with these things...

The 5th Gen and RC51 are mounted in the tail, which does a fine job of collecting all the heat generated by the rear cylinder(s)! Not much better...

>

Coderighter -

1. What is about this new series device that leads you to believe its performance will be different from the one you used before?

2. Do you believe your recent issue was the result of your first series device's inadequacy? Or an unrelated problem with the central fuse?

3. Do you believe the constant high stator output (higher than the HD?) is damaging to these series units, as suggested elsewhere?

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this.

1. Well, the Compu-fire is meant to be used with a Compu-fire stator and isn't supported on anything less. It was try at your own risk. The Cycle Electronics is supported on all 3 phase stators and has a 2 year warranty. The Cycle Electronics is also 50 amp, where the Compu-fire was 40 amps. 40 amps should have been enough, but a little cushion is a good thing.

2. I believe the voltage from the stator was too high at the high engine RPM during my spirited acceleration, but it's hard to say for sure.

3. See 2.

It's my believe that the R/R and stator 'life' should be the same as the bike itself. There is no reason the stator should wear out and need replacement.

What, if any, is the difference in the CF stator? A stator is a stator is a stator. No? Not criticizing, I am genuinely asking. I too believe stator life should be as long as the bike. So why am I about to install my third RC51 stator despite using a CF R/R for the last one?

A stator can be set up to deliverer different voltages depending on RPM. Other then that, I don't what else could be different.

Did you have the CF R/R for the whole life of the stator?

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Nope. Bought the OEM SP2 stator used. Was hoping the "switching off" bit would extend the life. Maybe it did, maybe not. Starting over with a rewound stator and the same CF R/R.

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So the only point we have to mount a heat sink with cooling fins is right over the freaking radiator! No wonder we have problems with these things...

The 5th Gen and RC51 are mounted in the tail, which does a fine job of collecting all the heat generated by the rear cylinder(s)! Not much better...

>>

Coderighter -

1. What is about this new series device that leads you to believe its performance will be different from the one you used before?

2. Do you believe your recent issue was the result of your first series device's inadequacy? Or an unrelated problem with the central fuse?

3. Do you believe the constant high stator output (higher than the HD?) is damaging to these series units, as suggested elsewhere?

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this.

1. Well, the Compu-fire is meant to be used with a Compu-fire stator and isn't supported on anything less. It was try at your own risk. The Cycle Electronics is supported on all 3 phase stators and has a 2 year warranty. The Cycle Electronics is also 50 amp, where the Compu-fire was 40 amps. 40 amps should have been enough, but a little cushion is a good thing.

2. I believe the voltage from the stator was too high at the high engine RPM during my spirited acceleration, but it's hard to say for sure.

3. See 2.

It's my believe that the R/R and stator 'life' should be the same as the bike itself. There is no reason the stator should wear out and need replacement.

What, if any, is the difference in the CF stator? A stator is a stator is a stator. No? Not criticizing, I am genuinely asking. I too believe stator life should be as long as the bike. So why am I about to install my third RC51 stator despite using a CF R/R for the last one?

A stator can be set up to deliverer different voltages depending on RPM. Other then that, I don't what else could be different.

Did you have the CF R/R for the whole life of the stator?

Depending on how the stator is wound, thickness of wire, number of turns, etc, will affect it's output.

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So the only point we have to mount a heat sink with cooling fins is right over the freaking radiator! No wonder we have problems with these things...

The 5th Gen and RC51 are mounted in the tail, which does a fine job of collecting all the heat generated by the rear cylinder(s)! Not much better...

I think some ealier Harleys did not have a 3 phase stator, so that why Compufire offers a 3 phase upgrade. Ive heard from Hd guys, some early Harleys only have two wires coming from the oem stator.

On a side note info seems mixed, I ve heard great, and Ive heard Ive been running compufire stator and RR for 4 years, and Im on my second set. So its definitely mixed result. Probably is a great upgrade from early single phase stators though.

<

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Nope. Bought the OEM SP2 stator used. Was hoping the "switching off" bit would extend the life. Maybe it did, maybe not. Starting over with a rewound stator and the same CF R/R.

So whats the rev limit on that bad boy?

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Not sure, I don't watch the tach...

9.2 with the soft limiter, 10.2 with the mod? 9250 and 10500? Something like that according to the interwebs...

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I got to thinking today about my RC51 and the CF R/R. Sure it only revs to 9.5 -10.5 or so, but I can't believe one rip up to redline on a VFR would kill the R/R but 2 full days at Road Atlanta on my RC51 wouldn't bother it. I mean it's only a VFR, not a 600 supersport. I would think the VFR stator is built to put out the same sort of power at max that a Harley is. Maybe I'm wrong. It's happened before! :goofy:

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I got to thinking today about my RC51 and the CF R/R. Sure it only revs to 9.5 -10.5 or so, but I can't believe one rip up to redline on a VFR would kill the R/R but 2 full days at Road Atlanta on my RC51 wouldn't bother it. I mean it's only a VFR, not a 600 supersport. I would think the VFR stator is built to put out the same sort of power at max that a Harley is. Maybe I'm wrong. It's happened before! :goofy:

My theory is (was) if the output of the Harley stator at idle, 650 RPM, is the same as the VFR at idle, 1100 RPM, then at max RPM they should be close to the same. If the idles were 600 RPM and 1200 RPM, it would be the same at 6000 RPM and 12000 RPM. The actual math for the 650 to 1100 comparison would work out to the output being the same at 6000 RPM and 10150 RPM. You would think there would be enough of a fudge factor to get to 12k, but perhaps not.

To be honest, I'm not one to venture above 10k. That being said, I had been following someone doing 40 in a 45 for about 8 miles until we came to a 'T' in the road, He went left, I went right and I my have celebrated my release with a little 12k-ish 2nd.

It's hard to say what happened for sure, but it's all good. Me and the VFR both got home and now I'll be the guinea pig for the Cycle Electronics R/R.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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So while the fairing was off, I flushed the coolant, brake fluid, and changed the oil. I got it back on the road last weekend and the first thing I did was head to the nearest freeway and did a handful of on ramp 12k 2nd gears, no problem. I ordered a mini LED voltmeter and when I get it, I'll mount it up, hit the freeway again, and report back.

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Since HD was brough into this fray, I will tell you that you would be very lucky to have a HD R/R last 10,000 miles. and on a sportster, it is equal to half engine dissasembly to replace a stator.

I got over 50,000 miles out of my stock stator, and a tad over 2500 on the electrosport stator, so my 2 cents is that a stator is not a stator is a stator.

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