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Stator Rewinding


KevCarver

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Switchblade, I don't think the RC51 has any more heat issues than the VFR800. All have side mounted rads and run higher temp numbers than one might expect if compared to an I4 with a front radiator. That's why I keep my display off the water temp on both bikes. Not necessary. And I don't think that it cooks the stator on either bike. But who knows...

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OK, got the RC51 back together and it's looking great! I was at 13.8 or so with the fast idle warming up. After I got it out on the road, it came up to 14.2 and settled in there. After a brief stop, it was up to 14.1 for a while. Then was back at 14.2 at nearly any rpm above idle.

The old setup with the used stator I bought and the Lascar voltmeter produced wildly varied results. It would jump around all the time, as much as a volt or more at a time, sometimes up to 15v or more! Some of that was due to the really sensitive nature of the Lascar unit metering the voltage, but I've seen them on other bikes and they didn't jump around anything like mine was. Certainly not by an entire volt. More like hundredths or as much as a tenth.

The CompuFire R/R is still on the bike. It was installed at the same time as the previous stator, so all the voltage jumping I just wrote about was not due to it at all.

I also installed this Chinese Voltmeter: (As I previously mentioned the Lascar VMeter shook itself to death at Road Atlanta)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251222029291?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

For $5.43 I figured it was worth a shot. Turns out it's kinda hard to read. I thought it was down far enough to get out of direct sunlight, but it's still kinda tough. Can't beat the price, and it isn't necessary to constantly read it, so it'll work.

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My lascar meter jumps around a bit, but I give it that its a sensitive piece. To verify the real voltage, I check it with my multimeter and the voltages there are rock solid, near zero variation at all.

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Switchblade, I don't think the RC51 has any more heat issues than the VFR800. All have side mounted rads and run higher temp numbers than one might expect if compared to an I4 with a front radiator. That's why I keep my display off the water temp on both bikes. Not necessary. And I don't think that it cooks the stator on either bike. But who knows...

Back when I test rode an R1 crossplane, that thing see's the 230's degrees no problem , very hot running.

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Switchblade, I don't think the RC51 has any more heat issues than the VFR800. All have side mounted rads and run higher temp numbers than one might expect if compared to an I4 with a front radiator. That's why I keep my display off the water temp on both bikes. Not necessary. And I don't think that it cooks the stator on either bike. But who knows...

Back when I test rode an R1 crossplane, that thing see's the 230's degrees no problem , very hot running.

WOW where's the logic in that .

P.S. Kevin great to see its back together.

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Finally got mine after Gary called me back.

Said he had just bought a real old boat and been working on it and hoped that I would like what he had done with the stator.

Now to get my suspension on the new 98 and check the electrical circuit and see what condition it is in. :fing02:

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We played phone tag for almost 10 days. I would call him and he would be out buying wire and other stuff and not be able to write down my credit card info.

After he called me back on Tuesday afternoon I had the stator back the next day. I think he had completed the work so that turn around is not normal.

Have you tried just the 800 number or the 205 area code number as well?

Don't bother with the email address on his website, no one monitors it.

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How long did it take to get your stator back? I sent mine off to Gary a week ago and I haven't heard back from him.

OEM. guaranteed to work and arrive, I depend on promptness not some yahoo that has no time line, good luck, Im sure you'll get it eventually if you press like everyone else.

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4-5 days I think after he got it in. I sent him three then split the one off for Caver, but he was waiting for him to pay before sending them all to me, so it wasn't a clean transaction. In any case, it was quicker than the gasket from the online parts dealer.

You did make sure to include all your info in the shipment? Give him a call. I had better luck getting him on the phone than CC did.

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How long did it take to get your stator back? I sent mine off to Gary a week ago and I haven't heard back from him.

OEM. guaranteed to work and arrive, I depend on promptness not some yahoo that has no time line, good luck, Im sure you'll get it eventually if you press like everyone else.

OEM guaranteed to work like the 35,000 or so that have failed in VFRs...maybe you should revisit the 6th gen suspension thread where you tell everyone that there is no need to set sag on street bike...you are obviously in over your head in this thread.

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OEM stators are wound by hand all the same, but by unskilled independent contractors in southeast asia. If they were machine wound, the windings would all be perfectly evenly spaced, instead of meandering back and forth like they do on the OEM coils. So I'd rather have someone with more than two decades worth of stator-rebuilding experience to wind my stator.

But to get back on topic, I'll give Gary a call on Monday to see what's the holdup. My tracking number says that he received my stator last Saturday, but he hasn't cashed my check yet.

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Hey everybody, do yourself a favor and go ahead and add spud to your ignore list like I have. No need to read anything he posts. Won't waste your time at all.

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OEM stators are wound by hand all the same, but by unskilled independent contractors in southeast asia. If they were machine wound, the windings would all be perfectly evenly spaced, instead of meandering back and forth like they do on the OEM coils. So I'd rather have someone with more than two decades worth of stator-rebuilding experience to wind my stator.

But to get back on topic, I'll give Gary a call on Monday to see what's the holdup. My tracking number says that he received my stator last Saturday, but he hasn't cashed my check yet.

oem are hand wound? right(crinnge), but its the opposite!!! my only point is all stators fail, but Ive not see any aftermarket outlast the oem's on the bikes Ive run, such as the 6th gen. I am intriqued though in the desire to believe there's better, if and when I see it, I'll be on your side. More or less I think its just trying to save a Buck, cause the belief the oems are crap in comparison.

But like Ive said before on average the VFR oems exceed well over 50,000 miles in life, and that in the motorcycle world, is considered above average stator life.

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OEM stators are wound by hand all the same, but by unskilled independent contractors in southeast asia. If they were machine wound, the windings would all be perfectly evenly spaced, instead of meandering back and forth like they do on the OEM coils. So I'd rather have someone with more than two decades worth of stator-rebuilding experience to wind my stator.

But to get back on topic, I'll give Gary a call on Monday to see what's the holdup. My tracking number says that he received my stator last Saturday, but he hasn't cashed my check yet.

oem are hand wound? right(crinnge), but its the opposite!!! my only point is all stators fail, but Ive not see any aftermarket outlast the oem's on the bikes Ive run, such as the 6th gen. I am intriqued though in the desire to believe there's better, if and when I see it, I'll be on your side. More or less I think its just trying to save a Buck, cause the belief the oems are crap in comparison.

But like Ive said before on average the VFR oems exceed well over 50,000 miles in life, and that in the motorcycle world, is considered above average stator life.

If you don't believe me that they're hand-wound, take a look at the research paper that I've attached. The OEM stator core appears to be produced using the lamination method with six 60-degree segments, judging by the individual bands on the ends of the teeth and the six pins going through the stator body. Thus, it can't be easily folded to wind using a needle winder like in figure 6. It would need a gap of "3.5-4 times the wire diameter" between each winding to allow a needle winder to wind each tooth (see figure 5). Now take a look at the attached closeup of my stock stator. There is clearly not that much space at the base of each slot to fit a needle winder. And since there's a bit of an overhang at the end of each tooth, the coil can't be prewound and then slipped onto the tooth. Therefore, they must be hand wound in order to achieve such a high slot fill factor.

It's not that the OEM stators aren't acceptable; I just figured that someone who winds stators for more than minimum wage might do a better job.

statorwinding.pdf

post-23602-0-70752600-1364005437.jpg

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I've seen some oem suzuki stators fail at 5 or 10,000 miles Like the vstrom, thats pretty pathetic. I tracked the DRZ stator failures nationwide, offroad it was about 10,000 mile average life, mainly street, average about 20,000 mile. Many did the after market thing, only to redo it later, same here on vfrd, although we've had a lag of aftermarket stator issues here, allowing this avenue of replacement to creep back in with high regard. Im on my second vfr oem stator first one 56,000 miles, second one is now over 45,000 miles, that seems pretty good consistant track record, if you ask me. If the gary's can do post 50,000 miles then maybe its a decent aftermarket, Im just going off other aftermarket stator history. On a side note, what ever produces the results long term, is what Im intererested. I use the history of the results , and on the vfr the oem stator produces the best output, and longest life, and direct fit doent hurt either when you need to get it done without complications. My wiring has not seen the damage others have, and that damage might have actually accelerated their stators demise.

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I finally got my stator back from Gary last week. Total turnaround time including shipping both ways was 15 days. Strangely, he still hasn't cashed the personal check that I sent along with my stator.

The stator looks good. I asked him to upgrade the windings and cable. They do look like they're a thicker gauge than the OEM stator. Gary replaced the rubber grommets and plug too, which I hadn't expected. I slapped it into my '02 yesterday and she runs fine. It feels good to be riding again. :cheerleader:

post-23602-0-72835900-1364744798.jpg

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I finally got my stator back from Gary last week. Total turnaround time including shipping both ways was 15 days. Strangely, he still hasn't cashed the personal check that I sent along with my stator.

The stator looks good. I asked him to upgrade the windings and cable. They do look like they're a thicker gauge than the OEM stator. Gary replaced the rubber grommets and plug too, which I hadn't expected. I slapped it into my '02 yesterday and she runs fine. It feels good to be riding again. :cheerleader:

He runs a business, he probably does check cashing at a specific time.

Whats the ballpark of getting this done? I've got two used OE stators and I trust neither. I really thought one was upgraded, but i pulled it from the old motor and it turned out to be a stocker.

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sudo, on 31 Mar 2013 - 10:52, said:

I finally got my stator back from Gary last week. Total turnaround time including shipping both ways was 15 days. Strangely, he still hasn't cashed the personal check that I sent along with my stator.

The stator looks good. I asked him to upgrade the windings and cable. They do look like they're a thicker gauge than the OEM stator. Gary replaced the rubber grommets and plug too, which I hadn't expected. I slapped it into my '02 yesterday and she runs fine. It feels good to be riding again. :cheerleader:

HOw can you tell the oem is an opaque coating, if they were actually heavier wiring, it would produce a differnt output anyway, from what ive seen posted numbers wise, its shy of the oem output but still usable. Id like to see them go 50,000 miles, then maybe its comparable to oem. While a few have posted their vfr oem hasnt made it past 20 or 30,000 miles that below average, Both of mine have gone well over 50,000, and the last one still going. So thats the bar to beat.

IMO the whole issue with stator life is the coating degrade not the wiring

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