Member Contributer sa1713 Posted February 19, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted February 19, 2013 You tell Custom Rewind what type of connector, if different for your model year, that you want and he'll put it on. I provided him with a copy of the SM and he did the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted February 19, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 19, 2013 I've got an aftermarket connector, and have three extra male terminals! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sudo Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 The stator on my '02 VFR800 burned out this week. All three windings show continuity to each other and are shorted to ground.I gave Gary a call a few minutes ago and he told me he will rewind it for me with upgraded windings if I send him my stator with a check for $110. I'll update you guys when I get it back from him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted March 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2013 For another $80 you get a brand new OEM that comes with new wiring and connector. Do you get new wiring and connector with the re-wind job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted March 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2013 I don't really care about the wiring and connector; I can always change it out to something sturdier on my own. The problem with buying an OEM stator is that my '02 has had the AC generator recall done, so the part number for the upgraded stator is not the same as the one for the stock stator. And from some sources that I've found, the part number for '03-onward stator is different too. So, I figured it was best to just have this one rewound. I wonder if Kaldek would know...he knows these 6th gen electrics inside and out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted March 8, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2013 For another $80 you get a brand new OEM that comes with new wiring and connector. Do you get new wiring and connector with the re-wind job?Yep!And you don't have the crappy oem stator that died in the first effing place! The oem connectors are the first weak link in the weak chain of the VFR charging system. So really that point is moot. Not sure if Gary offers other connector options. If you do nothing else, get the heck rid of that stock connector. The terminals inside the plug will loosen up over time and start arcing inside the plastic. That will cause it to melt and loose the connection. My second oem R/R on the VFR was the "upgraded" version and after several years the insulation on the R/R side of the plug got very brittle and flaked off when I was inspecting it during a maintenance and upgrade project. Eventually it would have happened while running if I hadn't done it then. I know I'm not specifically addressing the stator in this, but I'm trying to demonstrate the point that the oem are not necessarily the best thing. What's the biggest gripe about the VFR in general? The charging system typically. Why keep going back to the same oem parts that are prone to fail, or at the very least underperform? By the way, I should have mine next week along with a new gasket so I can throw it in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted March 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2013 For another $80 you get a brand new OEM that comes with new wiring and connector. Do you get new wiring and connector with the re-wind job?Yep!And you don't have the crappy oem stator that died in the first effing place! The oem connectors are the first weak link in the weak chain of the VFR charging system. So really that point is moot. Not sure if Gary offers other connector options. If you do nothing else, get the heck rid of that stock connector. The terminals inside the plug will loosen up over time and start arcing inside the plastic. That will cause it to melt and loose the connection. My second oem R/R on the VFR was the "upgraded" version and after several years the insulation on the R/R side of the plug got very brittle and flaked off when I was inspecting it during a maintenance and upgrade project. Eventually it would have happened while running if I hadn't done it then. I know I'm not specifically addressing the stator in this, but I'm trying to demonstrate the point that the oem are not necessarily the best thing. What's the biggest gripe about the VFR in general? The charging system typically. Why keep going back to the same oem parts that are prone to fail, or at the very least underperform? By the way, I should have mine next week along with a new gasket so I can throw it in there. I hear what you are saying for sure. I went ahead and replaced my stator and R/R with OEM (and a new battery at the same time) about 20k miles ago after finding my white connector melted and the wires cooked. At the suggestion of member here, when I put the new connectors together I coated the contacts with GB Ox-gard. I have been checking it regularly and the wires and connctor show absolutely no signs of overheating or arcing. I hope it stays that way. Ox-gard is unlike anything I've ever seen...it actually sets up to a consistency like cured caulking and kind of acts like an adhesive as well as an oxidation barrier. It seems to work well on this trouble prone connector so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted March 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2013 GB Ox-guard is great stuff-use it on all the electrics on my 4th gen. RE: OEM vs Gary's stators, I installed a new battery the same time I did the stator (and R/R) and that was almost 5 years ago. I ride year round (almost every day) and my battery tests like new. I think the consistency of the current delivery to the rest of the system might have something to do with it. It starts with less than a second of cranking and my voltage is stable. I'm using an old GSXR 750 R/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted March 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2013 I don't really care about the wiring and connector; I can always change it out to something sturdier on my own. The problem with buying an OEM stator is that my '02 has had the AC generator recall done, so the part number for the upgraded stator is not the same as the one for the stock stator. And from some sources that I've found, the part number for '03-onward stator is different too. So, I figured it was best to just have this one rewound. I wonder if Kaldek would know...he knows these 6th gen electrics inside and out... That I do. Anyone with an '02 that's had the recall done needs to buy the newest possible part code (114mm Outer Diameter stator), as the size of the rotor/stator combo has not changed since the recall. I don't believe you can even *order* the original '02 part anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted March 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2013 GB Ox-guard is great stuff-use it on all the electrics on my 4th gen. RE: OEM vs Gary's stators, I installed a new battery the same time I did the stator (and R/R) and that was almost 5 years ago. I ride year round (almost every day) and my battery tests like new. I think the consistency of the current delivery to the rest of the system might have something to do with it. It starts with less than a second of cranking and my voltage is stable. I'm using an old GSXR 750 R/R. Good to know Rangemaster. BTW, do you know what is a solvent for Ox-gard? http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-OX-100B-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/dp/B000BODU66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1362841666&sr=8-1&keywords=ox-gard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bassie Posted March 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2013 It's just a wire twisted around an iron frame. I'm sorry but unless the wrong wire or glue is used, I see no problems with it. This stuff isn't exactly high-tech, it's rather low-tech. I also fail to see why so many people have problems with it, as this stuff can last for centuries. Only problem I see, is when you try to draw too much power from it, with a short or a broken battery that it heats too much and the isolation melts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 How does the stator on a Gen 3 (1990) compare? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sudo Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 I pulled my stator this weekend to send to Custom Rewind. Here is a shot of the burned out stator. All three phases had burned out. You can see the three burnt coils at the 8-9 o'clock position.Interestingly, the unburnt white portion of the stator is the bottom-most point when it is mounted to the engine. I guess the engine oil doesn't reach the top of the stator, so the coils there aren't cooled as well as those on the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Ever stator Ive seen always seems to burn out at the top, first. Between the 9 oclock and 3 oclock positions. Teh bottom always does seem to show a dramatic differnce. They ought to make some kind of little buckets on the face of the rotor to catch oil and throw it around in a spinning motion, Ive wondered my self if that would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted March 12, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2013 The part about that job I hated was scraping off the old gasket. Took me an hour! Of course it was the first time I have ever done one and was probably doing it wrongly. I did use some gasket in a tube over the connector area, I think that was the right thing to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Yes, you need some silicone around the stator wire grommet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted March 14, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 14, 2013 Got my newly rewound stators in via UPS Wednesday! Mason City Honda supplied the new gaskets, which also arrived yesterday. The turn around time would have been several days quicker, but there were other issues not on Gary's end that slowed his sending them back. I didn't have the gaskets anyway, so it was no big deal to wait. I stuck a cheapy Chinese voltmeter on the RC51 to replace the LASCAR unit that died at Road Atlanta last year. Found a (hopefully) better location to mount it that won't vibrate it to pieces this time. Still have the Datel on the VFR in good working order, so no worries there. Got all my terminals to replace them in the connectors, so I should be able to get at least the RC51 going this weekend. No hurry on the VFR since it still works ok and I had a spare stator to rewind. Just not at the level I was expecting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted March 14, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 14, 2013 What do you mean "Just not the level I was expecting." ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 14, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 14, 2013 ??...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted March 14, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 14, 2013 Meaning it was a brand new Rick's unit that started out charging 14v at idle, but now is 13.7 at speed. Sounds like not a big deal, but I have full LED lighting (except the headlights, of course) so it should be reading more on the voltmeter in my opinion. Still better than each of the OEM stators I had in the VFR in the past. The RC51 has killed 2 OEM stators since I owned it. Fully dead, continuity to ground dead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Below 14 volt at speed will always pose an issue, cause it will be even less at lower rpm. Might check all your connections on resistance. A shame you've had so much issue with oems. but one was a Used unit. The 6th gen vfrs are on avetrage exceed well over 50'ooo mile in stator life, yet to see that with aftermarket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted March 15, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 15, 2013 Below 14 volt at speed will always pose an issue, cause it will be even less at lower rpm. Might check all your connections on resistance. A shame you've had so much issue with oems. but one was a Used unit. The 6th gen vfrs are on avetrage exceed well over 50'ooo mile in stator life, yet to see that with aftermarket. which one was "Used" ? The one in the bike when he bought it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 16, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 16, 2013 Kevin do you think heat is what is killing the stator on the RC, i have talk to couple RC51 riders at the gap, they say the same thing when there stuck in traffic there bikes over heat bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Below 14 volt at speed will always pose an issue, cause it will be even less at lower rpm. Might check all your connections on resistance. A shame you've had so much issue with oems. but one was a Used unit. The 6th gen vfrs are on avetrage exceed well over 50'ooo mile in stator life, yet to see that with aftermarket. I think he mentioned when his first one failed, he bought a used stator to replace, why buy a used stator, beats me. which one was "Used" ? The one in the bike when he bought it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted March 16, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 16, 2013 Kevin do you think heat is what is killing the stator on the RC, i have talk to couple RC51 riders at the gap, they say the same thing when there stuck in traffic there bikes over heat bad. No idea. The day it died was chilly enough to run my heated jacket. At least this time I'm starting with new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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