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6Th Gen. Replaced Fork Seals, Leaking Worse Now.


1TallTXn

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I removed the forks about two weeks ago to replaced the fork seals. Had been about 20k mi since JamieD rebuilt them for me, and the left seal was seeping a bit.

After some trouble getting the fork halves to separate, I got them apart, cleaned, and back together.

Refilled the forks with Honda 5wt Fork Oil, leaving a 110mm air gap.

Noticed the seals were a smidgen damp the next day. Didn't think much of it as I figured they were still seating in.

Changed the spark plugs over the weekend and noticed the front of the bike is practically covered in oil, and both fork seals are more than damp.

Any suggestions on what to look for? Brand new Honda seals with fresh oil and normal commuting.

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Seals are OEM Honda.

I was very careful putting them in.

If it was just one side that was leaking, I would be willing to accept a bad seal, but with both, I'm scratching my head.

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Double check the fork slider for any imperfections. All it takes is one minor groove or nick in the tube to create a "blade" of sorts that will cut the seal. If you have a chance to look at or pick up the 'Racetech Suspension Bible', there is a section of How-Tos that shows the best way to take apart and put together a set of forks. Not saying you're doing it wrong, but there are a few caveats to putting the seal over the slider.

Good luck.

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It's very possible you put them in up side down. I believe they have 3 wipers. 1 on top 2 on the bottom. Or it's possible you didnt seat them all the way against the bottom of the seal seat. Only thing to do is take them off and check. I did something similar when I replaced the clutch on mine. Put one plate in the wrong order and had to do it over to check.

On the positive side. Since you just did it once it will go much faster the second time.

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It's very possible you put them in up side down. I believe they have 3 wipers. 1 on top 2 on the bottom. Or it's possible you didnt seat them all the way against the bottom of the seal seat. Only thing to do is take them off and check. I did something similar when I replaced the clutch on mine. Put one plate in the wrong order and had to do it over to check.

On the positive side. Since you just did it once it will go much faster the second time.

My guess would be upside down. Look for the micro fine printing on one side of the seal which should be facing up if I remember correctly.

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Another thing to look at.

The tech replaced a slider bushing that was worn quite a lot on one of my fork legs. (The one that was leaking)

He thought that might have contributed to the leaking fork seal.

Bike had 42,000 miles on it at the time.

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Once they are leaking, no choice but to replace again(with OEM nothing else), makes sure no nicks in tubes, and use grease and or plasticbag to slide over stanction tube.

There is a very fine( lip) inside the seal, easily damaged if not careful.

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also remember to NOT compress the forks farther than normal travel after new seals go in. When this is done, the seals get torn at least 50% of the time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ordered seals, bushings, Race Tech's Suspension Bible, and the Motion Pro "Ringer"fork seal driver.

Got it all apart and back together over the weekend.

Rode her to work this morning and saw no signs of oil on either fork seal.

I did notice one fork seal was in upside down. And this batch of seals had a billion-language insert telling me the small lettering goes up. Not sure if the other set didn't have it, or I just didn't read it. (Instructions? Aren't those a last resort?)

Thanks for the tips!

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My money was on upside down. You could have just turned it over and used it. Don't ask how I know.

You may also want to pay some attention to your front pads and rotors, make sure haven't soaked up a little fork oil. They will smoke realy wel under severe braking if they have and you may not notice the increased stopping distance unless hoping from bike to bike to compare.

Again, don't ask how I know. :ph34r:

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If I may tag on the back of this thread, I've done one set of fork seals, on an '85 Kawasaki street bike, and used a cut-up piece of black, mostly rigid pipe. Was I just lucky that worked, or are modern seals much more precise?

What I did was just tap and tap the pipe with a mallet until they were in place. Mind you I also got out the old ones by filling the forks completely with oil, and compressing them until the seals slid out of place... which also had to be done on the bike, because there is a small pipe that allows pressure/oil to be shared between the forks.

100_2845.JPG

Mind you I also loaded it up like this the first time I rode it back to school...

100_2848.JPG

Yes, the whole process was a bit messy.

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My money was on upside down. You could have just turned it over and used it. Don't ask how I know.

You may also want to pay some attention to your front pads and rotors, make sure haven't soaked up a little fork oil. They will smoke realy wel under severe braking if they have and you may not notice the increased stopping distance unless hoping from bike to bike to compare.

Again, don't ask how I know. :ph34r:

One seal was in upside down. The other I'm not sure of. I went ahead and replaced them just to be sure.

Brake pads are due for replacement and will be swapped soon.

slither, nice tip, hadn't thought of doing it that way.

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I would suggest you check that fork tube for a scratch. When new seals leak like that it almost always means there is a blemish of some kind on the stanchion tube. Probably worth checking anyway.

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I would suggest you check that fork tube for a scratch. When new seals leak like that it almost always means there is a blemish of some kind on the stanchion tube. Probably worth checking anyway.

I looked at both fork tubes very closely when putting the new seals and bushings in. I didn't see/feel anything amiss. 200mi later, still no leaks.

Guess I buggered them up the first time around.

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  • 1 year later...

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