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Riding to the Eifel


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Now this will be a report about a ride that was not done on a VFR, but the spirit was the same as if it was done on my bike. It was a good ride, and would have been the best ride of my life if I had my VFR with me. so anyway, on we go:

I suited up with my new Rev 'It rainsuit and overgloves at 0700 on Thursday. We were all suited up and had a second bike from this motorShop in Apeldoorn. Great place with really helpful staff and a cool place to visit if you are in the area.

It was raining. Hard. Weather.com said 80 percent chance of rain for the 3 days I was going to be riding, but I wasnt going to let that stop me. I got lost on the way to Uncle Rene's house and to tell you the truth, I was a little miserable. A kindly young fella in an old Volvo helped me find Rene's farm with his GPS and I was back on track. We loaded up and were ready for the off:

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We started off south on the A50, and if it was at all possible, it rained even harder. I mean frogs couldnt take this kind of wet. The rainsuit did its job at and at least I was dry inside. As we went south, the rain eased up and became scattered. It was cold in the storms, but the clouds would part, and the sun actually made an appearance, warming us up at once. First stop for gas and coffee:

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We went on like this until we made it to Belgium. There is no gigantic "Welcome to Belgium" sign, but you could instantly tell that you were in a new country. The landscape was different, the architecture was different, and now that we were off the highway, the roads were getting twistier. Second stop was for some fries and a croquette at Chez Willy's:

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Through Belgium and Luxemburg, the roads got really good. It was still wet, but I said in my helmet "reduced traction, but not reduced fun" I think my postive attitude helped because there was not a single drop more until 2 hours after I got home to Heerde. 70 degrees and the type of riding where you can feel no cold and no hot. Perfect in other words. The roads now reminded me of the Hellbender in North Carolina, only the backround was much different. The houses were almost Mediteranian and coloured in pinks and light greens and yellows.

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In the distance I am sure I saw the town from the end of the Willy Wonka movie when they flew over the villiage.

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The roads continued to be fantastic and I was amazed. I mentioned to Rene how great the curves were and he informed me that this was the warm-up, and that the really fun roads were coming the next day, in the Eifel Forrest in Germany. I didnt really know what country I was in, nor did I really care. I just followed Rene's tail-light through some of the best roads in the galaxy. I was fully commited in a tight right hand hairpin when I saw that I was getting too close to a sign on the inside curb. I moved my head just in time to not hit the "Bundes Republik Deuchland" sign. I have seen bigger "Welcome to West Virginia " signs!!!. Oh well........... We neared the campsite and took a 1 lane road that was barely wide enough for a single car that was up-down-left-right for miles. I was cranked over quite a bit and exiting a corner when I realized the way was blocked by a heard of strange looking cows. No cows were hurt in the making of this adventure, but we did have to rest for a while until farmer Ernst got his beef put away.

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We arrived at the campsite just in time for speghetti dinner and lotsa beer. Very cool place to camp and super relaxing. It's nice having your family at home base of a far away ride.

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The stream was 25 feet from our camp. On the near side, Germany, on the far side, Luxemburg.

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We woke the next morning with extra large heads from the party the night before and slowly built up steam to go to the next set of roads. These roads are very hard to explain, but I will try. The first thing you will notice is that I have very few photos of the cool roads, and that is because I was very busy trying to not fall off and I was having way too much fun to stop for a photo.

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You also have to keep in mind the temperature changes going up and down the mountains and the coming and going of cow poop smell. Ever notice all the good rides have a cow poop smell somewhere in them?. To best descibe these really remarkable roads will not do them justice, but if you like variation, thousands of miles of twisties, mirror glass pavement, and amazing scenery you just might like where I was. I am pretty sure that the jigsaw puzzle peple use only photographs from here on their stuff. Think of "The Sound of Music", then times it by 10. I am fairly positive that I saw the Von Trappe Family Singers at least once. Rene lead me on a connect-the-dots tour of the Eifel region. The roads in the meadows reminded me very much of the open roads in the countryside at the Isle of Man. Then you go up in elevation and you get to a section that really reminded me of the Catskills or the Poconos. Then it tightens up some more and it becomes alot like the Hellbender or Deals Gap. THEN, you get a section like the alpine mountain roads with a series of hairpins that go on for 5 or 10 minutes. Then you get to a villiage. Each villiage would be a destination in itself and every single one was old, cool and beautiful.

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The roads inside the villiages were just as curvy as the outter roads, but the 500 year old buildings would meet the street where a curb should be. I think I left a little slice of my Nolan on the corner of a church. Sorry God. Then the pattern is reversed until you get to a vally or a meadow and the Isle of Man type roads begin again. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat, until 4 hours later, you are 300 KMs from the campsite, and you get to do it all over again on the way back to dinner, beer and port. (no margaritas or sangria)

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We stopped at a gas station and Rene spoke to the keeper in German and told me that they had free coffee around the corner. He was going to have a wee, and to meet him at the coffee place. But I went around the wrong corner and saw only steps going up to a terrace. I figured the coffee was up there, so I went up and wandered around, but still no coffee. So I figured the coffee was in the open door to my left. I went in and ended up in the living room of a pissed off German farmer. I asked about the free coffe, and he taught me some German curse words and threw me out. I didnt mention the war.

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And then it happened. (Very dramatic music, please) I entered a roundabout and a german man jumped out in front of me and pointed to the nicely painted silver and blue vans with blue lights on the top. An obviously unpleased Politzei Woman pointed at me and Rene and said "Sprechen sie Deutch?" I gave Elsa my best deer in the headlights face and I finally heard it for real......."Dine papierhe bitte (your papers, please)" I was wondering what German jail was like here in the countryside. I asked Elsa if I could open my tankbag to get the papers and she looked at me like I was crazy. But I finally gave her the papers, a Maryland driver's permit and my passport. She went away to the van with a computer and I was wandering if I had any international warrants or overdue library books. When she came back I was saved by Rene, who speaks German, and he told Elsa that I was visiting and my family was at the campsite. She lightened up a little. I figured this was a good time to say in broken German that I was a policeman too. I even showed her my badge. She said "That is nice, the highway is that way." Sensing a rare moment, I asked her if I could have a picture with her. She really didnt want to, but one look from my deer eyes was all it took. Please disregard the stupid look on my face.

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So we pressed on, but didnt see any memonites or terrorists but we did pick up a VFR rider. I saw more VFRs in 3 days here than I have seen in 3 years back home. The Europeans know what is good for them.

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And as if it couldnt get better, we ended up at the Mussel River area where the German wine is made. The grape trees are all on the southern bank of the river on a 60 percent grade. Funny looking, with the little trains that go back and forth up the hills to pick the grapes. Rene told me that the only way to spray and fertilize the plants is by helecoptor. We rode the lane next to the river. It was just like the Hawks Nest in Port Jervis, except you had the grapes on one side instead of rocks, and on the far banks were castles.

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We did this for 7 hours and about 500 KMs. Returning to the campsite was good for my butt, but a little sad for leaving the best route I have ever done.

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On the way home, we took a simmilar trail, but this time we went through Spa, in Belgium. We rode on the same road as the Tour De France goes on. There were bicycle shirts painted in the middle of the road. Then we went on the autobahn. That takes a little concentration to hold 217KPH in traffic for a long tme. And to the Audi driver- sorry I held you up, you German owner of a stupidly fast car. 120 KPH seemed like a crawl when we go back to Holland.

So, roads...9 out of 10

Visuals...9 out of 10

riding partner 11 out of 10

I highly recomend this area if you have the chance. I am so lucky that I have a like minded and generous friend over here to show me the way. I am lucky that the Motorshop folks were so nice and helpful to me and I had my family with me to boot. If I had my leathers and my VFR, this would have been the best motorcycling day of my life, but as it is, I dont see how I will ever top this one. Maybe good things do happen to goofballs.

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the end of the ride

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just got an e-mail from Rene:

Hi Tim,

I did some conversions,

you did 217 km/h = 135 miles/hour

on total we did 1240 km = 771 miles,

please let me know when the pictures are online

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Tim,

What a fantastic travelogue! My dad was stationed in that part of Germany years ago, when I was a boy. I remember some of the same towns, and castles, and signs.

Thanks for sharing your trip with us!

:fing02:

Ron

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Nice :fing02: I will have to check out the Vianden area myself some time, every report on it is very positive.

Also good to hear the Rev'It suit does its job well as I bought the same suit a couple of weeks ago :fing02:

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:fing02: Great trip Timmy! Really could not skive off and join you.....

And am pleased there are no stories/pictures of a dutch woman in her white VW Tiguan.......... my wife has been in Luxemburg since Thursday.... :fing02:

I hit on some dikes today.............

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:goofy:

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I was jealous when you first told me of your plans, now seeing the pics it isn't any better! Glad you had a super ride and maybe one day I can show you around the southern part of Germany! :fing02:

How did the Suzuki treat ya?

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Pretty darn cool man... a ride most of us can only dream of fing02.gif Thanks for sharing.

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:fing02: Great trip Timmy! Really could not skive off and join you.....

well, at least you visited. that was cool...thanks, pal.

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And all the boys think Oom Leon is very cool.

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My pleasure, how else do your boys learn what "burnout" really means? :fing02:

We cannae hav'm go to the Island later in life and not knowing???

You are one lucky SOB to have found such a nice family....

Did catch a bit of rain on the A28, but water flies off quickly at speed.

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Tim,

good writeup and I was glad you were spared the ticket. Riding in Europe would be a real treat for anybody, but with family there along the way! I am wondering how did that akrapovic sound on the zook? I was thinking of a slip on for the veefalo next year.

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I am wondering how did that akrapovic sound on the zook? I was thinking of a slip on for the veefalo next year.

the pipe sounded good and it was quiet. a tad bit louder than stock, but with much better tone. the only time you could really hear it get really loud was when you were exactly behind it. It adheres to the european noise standards, and may be too queit for some, but i thought it was cool that at idle, nobody really notices it, but it still sounds good.

The GSX650F did well for me. Better than i thought, really. It felt like a really light and underpowered VFR. Really easy to ride fast. Great brakes, th eversion I road had ABS, even. I will tell you also, that 2010 Suzuki crappy suspension is much better than 2000 Honda crappy suspension. It was geared really low though, and I constantly tried to put in 7th. Peppy off the line, but I couldnt live with it like that. Never got it to redline (13,500), but the middle and top end felt really thin, espescially compared to a v4.

Dutchy's carbon Akropovic sounds perfect by the way!

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So Timmy,

you made it back across the pond ok.

Back tio the grind eh?

As for the sound of the Akrapovic on a V4......

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:fing02:

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Yes my luck has run out....I'm back. Deprted to maryland, yet again.

One thing I forgot to mention in the report was that we had virtually zero cars on the road the entire time. They very infrequent car on the road would always pull right on over to let us pass, but at some points (espescially in Luxemburg) we had the whole area to ourselves. It was prolly good timing, because the weekend that started as we left was "Black Saturday", the day when the enirety of Europe hooks up their caravans and heads to Germany. I'm not trying to gloat, but that was another bit of increadible luck for me.

On the same note, I am considering organizing a VFRD Europe ride in this area around the same time next year, complete with ride icon t-shirts etc. I havent orginized a ride yet, and this backdrop will rightly obscure any weaknesses I have in organization. Any thoughts about a European VFRD tear-ass session in the Eifel?

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sorry to keep rattling on, but I keep forgetting things.

I forgot to mention that on the way back, I went through Spa in Belgium. Really cool place with big houses and nice hotels. The hotels all have this yellow shield with an outline of a guy doing a wheelie on a sportbike. It means that bikers are welcome.

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The towns all fly the flag of the Spa Racetrack. I guess I was 5 Kms away from the track for a spell. We rode down the actual path that the Tour de France uses, and the street has these bicycle shirts painted on the roaf and they act as the centre line. Rene told me that where the shirts were painted was where a famous crash took place that took out 60 or 70 riders. It was very very cool.

and another thing!....you give a guy your treasured TMAC shirt, and he leaves without it! Lul!!! :laughing6-hehe:

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So, now that I see the Bitburg sign again, did you happen to have a Bitburger beer in Bitburg(bitte ein Bit?)? How 'bout a hamburger in Frankfurt & a frankfurter in Hamburg? :laughing6-hehe:

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What a fabulous journey, Timmy! Excellent pics really give a feel for being along on the ride. Those are moments to savor for a lifetime. Thanks for clueing us in.

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The hotels all have this yellow shield with an outline of a guy doing a wheelie on a sportbike. It means that bikers are welcome.

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I stayed at that hotel last year, great beerpump they have, made from a Moto Guzzi engine :laughing6-hehe:

Any thoughts about a European VFRD tear-ass session in the Eifel?

Sounds good!

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Any thoughts about a European VFRD tear-ass session in the Eifel?

i'd be in for that. just leave a trail so i can follow when you guys blast off into the distance.

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Any thoughts about a European VFRD tear-ass session in the Eifel?

i'd be in for that. just leave a trail so i can follow when you guys blast off into the distance.

to quote my 4 year old son, Owen,..............."You never leave a man behind !"

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OK, last one I promise.

I forgot to mention my experience with the Dutch authorities when I was leaving the country. The agent asked me if anyone had given me anything. I absent mindedly said "yes, I was given a plastic tray" (next time go back to the usual NO. After expaining what it's use was for and a long time later(it is a kick stand plate) he asked me how much it was worth. I told him it was prolly a Honda givaway. He kept asking me who gave it to me and I said "You see, there is this forum,. VFRD, and this guy, Dutchy...................................." He wanted a name. Luckily, I know Dutchy's real first and last name. Then he went to his supervisor and came back a short while later. he was still puzzled about a 4 inch piece of plastic. I said "I have it in mt carry-on, shall I take it out?" For some reason this paniced him and he got all serious. Another description of its use and a second trip to the head agent and I was allowed to get through security. Strange, that.

The offending item:

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