Member Contributer backonabike Posted January 5, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 5, 2009 Hey guys I have a Micron pipe that I want to polish it is aluminum I think and appears to have a clear coat on it. I have tried a couple of different polishes that I had in the garage, but they didn't work very well. Any suggestions? Also my wheels were stripped by the original owner ( I think they were painted black originally) so now they are just clean aluminum but they need a polish as well, again everything I have used has been so so at best. I think this would take a different product as there is no coating on the wheels. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SkeeBoy Posted January 5, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 5, 2009 I only use Mothers brand on my aluminum.With a powerball,powerball mini,and couple of bottles o beers, makes things easy.Since your pipes have a clear coat on them if you want to try to clean them up w/o removing clear coat try some Mothers paint polish.One way to tell if they're cleared is take some alum polish on a rag and buff a inconspicuous area.If the rag turns black where you polished then there's no coating on the pipes and you can get after em with the powerball. :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 I use Simichrome on my stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poncho Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Speedy Metal Polish http://www.speedymetalpolish.com/products.html You will see it about half way down the page. I have tried almost everything out there and it not only works good but the shine lasts the longest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrrider17 Posted January 5, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 5, 2009 I had the same problem with my old two-bros pipe on my SV. It had some kind of clear coat on it. I used all sorts of metal polishes, but it never took out the swirls and streaks. Have you tried flitz, I have used it on other metal products and it works great, Plus you can support WI with your purchase! http://www.flitz.com/default.aspx I figured out my problem though... I bought a VFR and a staintune exhaust which fixed the problem. :biggrin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soichiro Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 I use Simichrome on my stuff. DITTO, by far the best I have ever seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HiDesertMLB Posted January 5, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 5, 2009 I use Simichrome on my stuff. DITTO, by far the best I have ever seen. :biggrin: The best stuff going to polish up Staintunes and aluminum w/o a topcoat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyA Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I use Mother's powerball for aluminium wheels on my truck, and Flitz for my stainless steel guns. On my CB1 wheels, I use flitz. Both work great! I like the powerball because I can get a lot done in a short period of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Snafu Posted January 6, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2009 I use Simichrome on my stuff. Ditto that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 +1 on the flitz, it is the shiznit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I was also going to do some polishing on my frame, swingarm, and wheels (which were stripped by the previous owner also), and was wondering if the big Dremel tool with the polishing doodads would be a good starting point to use to get the rough stuff off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bren Posted January 6, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2009 Try this link. http://forum.caswellplating.com/metal-poli...ss-session.html Entertaining and informative, what more could anyone want. Unfortunately the pics no longer work but this is quite an old link. Bren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Could it be clear anodizing on the pipe instead of a paint type clear coat. Once you polish off the anodizing OR clear coating, you will have to re-polish the can often to keep it shiney and corrosion-free unless you re-coat the canto protect it's finish again. There's no going back. Many who polished their aluminum frames, wheels and swingarms find out about this the hard way, but maybe it's more manageable with the can. There was a product that cage wheel polishers used though, that's like wax and was supposed to provide at least 6 months of protective bling coating. Maybe that will work to protect the can's finish after polishing. I can't remember what it's called right now. Beck 95 VFR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Could it be clear anodizing on the pipe instead of a paint type clear coat. Once you polish off the anodizing OR clear coating, you will have to re-polish the can often to keep it shiney and corrosion-free unless you re-coat the canto protect it's finish again. There's no going back. Many who polished their aluminum frames, wheels and swingarms find out about this the hard way, but maybe it's more manageable with the can.There was a product that cage wheel polishers used though, that's like wax and was supposed to provide at least 6 months of protective bling coating. Maybe that will work to protect the can's finish after polishing. I can't remember what it's called right now. Beck 95 VFR Clear anodize on bare aluminum would stain the material gray and dull it, I highly doubt they are anodized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I was also going to do some polishing on my frame, swingarm, and wheels (which were stripped by the previous owner also), and was wondering if the big Dremel tool with the polishing doodads would be a good starting point to use to get the rough stuff off. Oh God, you'll be there for months using a Dremel! :biggrin: Buy an el cheapo corded drill and a mandrel that will allow you to attach a buffing wheel. That's how I did my CBR wheels, I couldn't imagine trying to use a Dremel for that job(and I've been a happy Dremel owner for 15 years!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Could it be clear anodizing on the pipe instead of a paint type clear coat. Once you polish off the anodizing OR clear coating, you will have to re-polish the can often to keep it shiney and corrosion-free unless you re-coat the canto protect it's finish again. There's no going back. Many who polished their aluminum frames, wheels and swingarms find out about this the hard way, but maybe it's more manageable with the can.There was a product that cage wheel polishers used though, that's like wax and was supposed to provide at least 6 months of protective bling coating. Maybe that will work to protect the can's finish after polishing. I can't remember what it's called right now. Beck 95 VFR Clear anodize on bare aluminum would stain the material gray and dull it, I highly doubt they are anodized. Micron had been anodizing cans or had used anodized materials in many different models such as this: http://www.exoticsportbike.com/micron_exhaust.htm So it still could be anodizing on the can and not a clear coat. Beck 95 VFR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I was also going to do some polishing on my frame, swingarm, and wheels (which were stripped by the previous owner also), and was wondering if the big Dremel tool with the polishing doodads would be a good starting point to use to get the rough stuff off. Oh God, you'll be there for months using a Dremel! :fing02: Buy an el cheapo corded drill and a mandrel that will allow you to attach a buffing wheel. That's how I did my CBR wheels, I couldn't imagine trying to use a Dremel for that job(and I've been a happy Dremel owner for 15 years!). Thanks! I wouldn't have even thought of that. Would that work for the frame part as well? I already have some sort of coating coming off due to chemical contact anyway, and since I was going to strip it down, I might as well take the time to do it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mac Posted January 7, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2009 #870 DURAGLOSS, the gold can of cotton. This stuff really works! Mother's Power ball polish works better with a Dremel tool. Mac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dude Posted January 7, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2009 Is the simichrome like the autosol polish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer motogpfan Posted January 7, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2009 Where do you buy siminchrome? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I have a polished 1948 Temco Swift airplane. We either is Mothers or Nurvite. Fitz actually doesn't do good enough job for us. Nuvite is by far and away the best product. There is a few different grits and allows you to get a "perfect" shine. Mirrors are actually dull compared to the airplane. Nuvite does a great job against protecting against water spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Smola67 Posted January 8, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 8, 2009 I have been using this for many years. One can has lasted a very long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihilker Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 believe it or not Brasso kicks ass on my TBR stash pipes, makes the alu look like a mirror. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Macs06VFR Posted January 8, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 8, 2009 Where do you buy siminchrome? Auto shops, hardware stores, craft stores, even some woodworking stores carry it. Good stuff. Cheapest place is usually the 'net. Mac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted January 8, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted January 8, 2009 Simichrome and Honda metal polish seem to be about the same thing. :ph34r: on both products. They have a toothpaste type consistency with mild abrasives and are great for really tough jobs so test first on anything you suspect might have a protective coat. NeverDull is my current favorite as it is non-abrasive, removes tar/grime, and buffs easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.