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Volt Gauge Choices


Tightwad

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I have been looking into Volt Gauge options, and it seems Datel is the common choice. I see nothing about this being a waterproof meter however. I am guessing because it is solid state, and generally flush mounted that water isn't a problem?

Second question, and more pertinent....is there a reason people use the rectangle ones instead of round ones? Radar and I were talking, and round ones would be easier to install I would think.

What are your thoughts? Pictures of installs? Where did you get them?

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I've been contemplating buying this one:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDe...ab=overview#tab

I have been looking into Volt Gauge options, and it seems Datel is the common choice. I see nothing about this being a waterproof meter however. I am guessing because it is solid state, and generally flush mounted that water isn't a problem?

Second question, and more pertinent....is there a reason people use the rectangle ones instead of round ones? Radar and I were talking, and round ones would be easier to install I would think.

What are your thoughts? Pictures of installs? Where did you get them?

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I've been contemplating buying this one:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDe...ab=overview#tab

I have been looking into Volt Gauge options, and it seems Datel is the common choice. I see nothing about this being a waterproof meter however. I am guessing because it is solid state, and generally flush mounted that water isn't a problem?

Second question, and more pertinent....is there a reason people use the rectangle ones instead of round ones? Radar and I were talking, and round ones would be easier to install I would think.

What are your thoughts? Pictures of installs? Where did you get them?

Were I to do it again, I would get one with LED rather than LCD display. LCDs are harder to read in daylight and don't last as long. Just my .02.

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I have been looking into Volt Gauge options, and it seems Datel is the common choice. I see nothing about this being a waterproof meter however. I am guessing because it is solid state, and generally flush mounted that water isn't a problem?

Second question, and more pertinent....is there a reason people use the rectangle ones instead of round ones? Radar and I were talking, and round ones would be easier to install I would think.

What are your thoughts? Pictures of installs? Where did you get them?

I don't think Datel meters are formally rated as waterproof, but I know they're generally regarded as being weatherproof. The electronics are fully epoxy encapsulated, only the connection posts are exposed. I ran one for years without an issue, and can't remember ever hearing of a failure of any kind.

They ship with a little paper template to mark off a spot to mount, and you can order a nice little bezel as well. Two wires (power and ground) and you're hooked up. Takes almost no time to install.

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Mine came with the VFR. HS apparently had one once because I remember reading one of his threads about how inaccurate it was. So I use it as a rough gauge to keep track of things.

VDC.jpg

It is also subject to being unreadable when the sun light hits it directly. I would like to replace it but since the faring was cut to fit it I would have to replace that as well. Needless to say, it is a mess back there with all the sealing material they used. And it is wired to my turn signal which means a less accurate reading.

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I picked a voltmeter from Küryakyn. I mounted it underneath the speedometer display. It displays red, yellow, and green LED based on the health of your charging system. It also automaticially adjusts brightness depending on how light/dark it is outside.

th_Voltmeter_Off.jpg th_Voltmeter_On.jpg

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I must add:

I purchased a Stinger Gauge to test.

Positives:

Red Display, shows well at night and good in daytime, must be shadowed in direct sunlight of course

Easy hookup, 3 wires(one a sensor wire, one to go to the battery, I just commoned them) and hooked to my auxiliary Fuse Panel and to ground

Comes in Red or Blue

Very accurate(matches Multi-meter dead on)

Negatives:

Rather large considering actual display size...some real-estate used by the "Stinger" logo being lit as well(looks kinda cool tho...)

No easy way to mount it...but this will be the same for many I think

Not waterproof....if flush mounted and siliconed it would be ok I am sure

Only 1 decimal place. I would prefer 4 digits, with 2 decimal places for increased accuracy

I mounted it(for now) on the Steering Stem plug using double-sided tape. It look good there, and is removable if I am worried about weather or something. Of course this location will go away when the Powerlet Products arrive and I install a Steering Stem kit.

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The Datels are splashproof, NOT waterproof.

I've heard from a guy who had his die in the first rain event.

Get the I4C waterPROOF one:

http://i4cproducts.com/

DOH, they're going out of business! Get yours now before they're gone!!!

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I went old skool with a marine grade analog unit. I prefer to not see constantly changing readings but that's just me.

KG9K0219.jpg

Although this one is brand new, I had a similar auto parts store unit mounted in about the same spot on my superhawk for over three years. Not a lot of rain riding but it did get very wet during washes although I tried to avoid direct blasts at it. I wrap up the wiring connections. No problems.

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I think lots are using the rectangle digital types because many of the round ones do not look too good (too chromey, chintzy and look like autoparts store specials) unless you get a round VDO version. VDO's black dial faces and pointers look classy/clean to match the VFR's instrumentation quality.

Beck

95 VFR

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I have been looking into Volt Gauge options, and it seems Datel is the common choice. I see nothing about this being a waterproof meter however. I am guessing because it is solid state, and generally flush mounted that water isn't a problem?

Second question, and more pertinent....is there a reason people use the rectangle ones instead of round ones? Radar and I were talking, and round ones would be easier to install I would think.

I have a Datel model, and it is waterproof. Not just "splashproof". I'd have to do some research to look up the part number, but it was definitely spec'd waterproof. The model I have mounts in a panel with a bezel (optional) with rubber gasket. The unit is fully sealed, including potting on the back. The only potential issue with water is that the wire attachment screw posts are exposed. I have *never* had an issue, despite the fact that I have ridden in a lot of heavy rain. If you were concerned with that, you could always dab silicone on the back of the terminals. Pic of mine installed below. I also posted a web page documenting my installation and parts, click here.

As someone mentioned, LED is a big plus if you ride at night. I used to have an I4C LCD meter, and I started to lose my r/r intermittently on a long, multi-day ride. When it started to go, I had several hours of night riding to make my destination. It was a royal pain to try and read the LCD by the occasional streetlight or pull out the flashlight, in order to see if I was gonna be stranded somewhere.

I bought several Datel meters as part of a group buy I organized for the VFR list a few years back. I really like the unit. (In fact, I think I still have an extra if anyone wants one -- I'll have to check. About $40 including bezel, gasket, mounting screws, etc.)

Cutting out the rectangle took some time, but really wasn't hard. I practiced on a spare piece of damaged bodywork I had laying around. I used the meter to trace the outline. Then made cuts with a dremel tool, finished the corners with a hacksaw blade, then used a file to clean up the edges and fine tune the size of the hole. Made my own harness from some 18 gage wire (I think), using a 2-pin connector I bought at Radio Shack (for easy disconnection if bodywork needed to be removed).

Datel installed in the left panel on my '94 below. Hit me up with any questions. (Goofy Heat-troller labels now gone)

vm_panel.jpgvm_lit.jpg

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I put together a voltmeter based on the Lascar EMV1200 unit referenced in post #2, above. I used a rectangle of epoxy printed circuit board from Radio Shack (the kind with no holes) spray painted flat black, and mounted using the existing tank bolts, because I didn't want to drill holes in my fairing. The wires from the voltmeter are very fine gauge and probably would break easily, so I soldered them to a heavier gauge black/red cable, stuffed the assembly into a short piece of brass tube, and epoxied this into the existing voltmeter connector. The whole assembly was then shrink wrapped. The cable runs directly to the battery along the inside of the frame (didn't have to raise the tank, just threaded it through). I soldered a fuse in-line right before the positive battery terminal, just for safety. Finally I put a piece of clear packing tape over the face of the meter to keep water out. Haven't tested in rain yet.

The nice thing about this unit is that it draws only 5 mA, so it does not need to be switched. It stays on all the time and you can glance at it while the bike is parked in the garage to check the condition of the battery. The update rate is several times per second, so there is some "jitter" while the engine is running, typically 14.5 to 14.9 V. I'm not sure if this is electrical noise or "real" (incomplete regulation by the RR).

Anyway it's been working for several months and I'm happy with it.

gallery_10606_3386_27370.jpg

voltmeter

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Mine came with the VFR. HS apparently had one once because I remember reading one of his threads about how inaccurate it was. So I use it as a rough gauge to keep track of things.

VDC.jpg

It is also subject to being unreadable when the sun light hits it directly. I would like to replace it but since the faring was cut to fit it I would have to replace that as well. Needless to say, it is a mess back there with all the sealing material they used. And it is wired to my turn signal which means a less accurate reading.

You can get that little piece of fairing from Service Honda for about $11! I mount alot of stuff on those pieces.... that way if I hate it I can change it cheap!

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Simple is better I ditched all the gauges and went for the led single lamp deal - its pretty much all you need. green = good, yellow = concern, red = bad. It actually helped me diagnose a bad relay. I can see it day or night, sunshine or cloudy. I had it plugged into my accessory fuse block and it would show red while riding, I would get alarmed and stop and check my battery and it would be fine. I thought the thing was broken but it wasnt, the relay on my fuse block was worn out and would not make good contact and only supply part voltage to my accessories. I figured it out when I took the lead off the fuse block and put it directly on the battery -> it turned green, on the fuse block it was red, back on the battery green! Multimeter confirmed it.

01050.jpg

http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/HUVM.asp

gallery_491_2692_81670.jpg

Signal Dynamics heads up voltage display and multi color indicator led for heated grips

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You can get that little piece of fairing from Service Honda for about $11! I mount alot of stuff on those pieces.... that way if I hate it I can change it cheap!

Awesome. Thanks!

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You can get that little piece of fairing from Service Honda for about $11! I mount alot of stuff on those pieces.... that way if I hate it I can change it cheap!

Awesome. Thanks!

:goofy: to that....I may order a couple to try different options! Anyone have the part# handy?

Hmmm, I get a price of 20-22 per side...here are the part numbers I got for R157 color

64330-mcwmD00z0 = Right Side

64335-mcwmD00z0 = Left Side

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Simple is better I ditched all the gauges and went for the led single lamp deal - its pretty much all you need. green = good, yellow = concern, red = bad. It actually helped me diagnose a bad relay. I can see it day or night, sunshine or cloudy. I had it plugged into my accessory fuse block and it would show red while riding, I would get alarmed and stop and check my battery and it would be fine. I thought the thing was broken but it wasnt, the relay on my fuse block was worn out and would not make good contact and only supply part voltage to my accessories. I figured it out when I took the lead off the fuse block and put it directly on the battery -> it turned green, on the fuse block it was red, back on the battery green! Multimeter confirmed it.

red=bad

Well, is it over or under charging when it's red? As you demonstrated, you had to go through troubleshooting to find out info that's provided by a gauge at a glance.

Someone ask me in a PM to post more info on my gauge but I don't have much more to offer. It's a no-name brand I found in the marine section. Picked it up for $8 plus overpriced shipping on me-pay. I have it wired into a switch relay that is connected directly to the battery. Great piece of mind.

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red=bad

Well, is it over or under charging when it's red? As you demonstrated, you had to go through troubleshooting to find out info that's provided by a gauge at a glance.

Serious Fault Detection & Notification

Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC – This prolonged over-voltage condition can destroy batteries, especially gel-cells.

Steady Green - Above 12.9

Steady Amber - Above 12.6

Steady Red - Above 12.1

Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC – During this condition, if the engine is running, do not shut down until service can be provided. Restart of engine is unlikely. Reduce electrical load.

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red=bad

Well, is it over or under charging when it's red? As you demonstrated, you had to go through troubleshooting to find out info that's provided by a gauge at a glance.

Serious Fault Detection & Notification

Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC – This prolonged over-voltage condition can destroy batteries, especially gel-cells.

Steady Green - Above 12.9

Steady Amber - Above 12.6

Steady Red - Above 12.1

Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC – During this condition, if the engine is running, do not shut down until service can be provided. Restart of engine is unlikely. Reduce electrical load.

LOL, here's the flaw in this system for me: Imagine I'm between Marathon and Alpine (out in the middle of BFE for non-Texans) and suddenly see a Steady Red. Enter panic mod: crap, I read the manual months ago when I installed this but what the F*&K does this mean now as it's always been green? :unsure:

Personally, I'd make a flashing yellow undercharging (get it? yellow is pale), green is the good zone, and a flashing red as overcharging (red is hot) but that's just me.

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Is it just me, or are all VFR owners somewhat obsessed about tiny details like .05 volts up or down? I think we almost all are, which is why so many of us pay attention to the little things.

I have now ordered 3 different volt meters....I will figure out which I like best! I will have to convince the Pillion that they are all prototypes pieces or something, if she even notices the parts arriving any more, which I think she is becoming numb to.

I have only seen one example of a round gauge, so here is how I would generalize VFR owners preferences:

#1. Most prefer rectangle digital gauges

#2. LED is preferrable to LCD, for easier reading at night

#3. Red is more common than blue, but the much obsessed(not talking JUST about you House) will go blue

#4. Some people just want a warning along the lines of "Hey, thought you might want to know your charging system failed 1/2 hour ago", and thus use a single LED light system....upside here is very small space.

#5. Farkles are great

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  • 2 months later...
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I've had my Datel for sometime now but never installed it because I didn't want to cut into the panel.

This is a great idea on were to mount it. Thanks checksix! :idea3:

gallery_10606_3386_27370.jpg

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Timely thread. I'm in need of a replacement for my LCD voltmeter, purchased from Riderwearhouse a few years ago. The LCD display is failing. I'll be going with LED or analog, marine duty rated.

Thanks to all for your insights and photos.

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I just installed my new volt meter yesterday.

voltmeter3.jpg

voltmeter4.jpg

The update frequency is kind of annoying when the bike is running, but at least I can read it in sun light, unlike my old Datel LED unit.

voltmeter1.jpg

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