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Steering Bearings


Bruckner

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http://www.allballsracing.com

Don't tighten them up to the torque spec listed in the factory service manual.

IIRC, that's 18 Ft/lbs. You steering will almost be locked at that torque spec.

Tapers require much less torque than roller bearing do for a steering head application.

Preload them to 18 ft/lbs and rotate the handlebars to seat the bearings, then back them off to 3-5 ft/lbs or so.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest VFRJohn
Thanks, I will give them a call. I suppose they supply both bearings, with the lower bearing fitted with an integral dust seal?

Regards,

Bruckner

I just did this. Both seals were included, separate pieces - same as OEM.

BTW - Somewhere I read a comment that the tapered bearings are taller than the originals and you need to adjust the fork tube position. NOT TRUE. The tapered RACES are indeed taller than the ball bearing ones, but the overall bearing stack heights are only .007 greater than the originals. Negligible difference - no measurable change in geometry.

OOPS! Mine is a 2000, not a VTEC. The above comments are true, but possibly not relavent!! :blink:

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I changed to taper rollers & had to buy a new torque wrench to set low torque that Rob specifies.

I now have a BMW F650 which uses taper rollers. Here is how BMW set the bearings:

Tighten to 25Nm

Waggle the forks back & forth.

LOOSEN the nut 60 degrees

Fit the rest of the steering system.

When it is all done the forks are supposed to flop to the side if you push them from the straight ahead position with the bike on the center stand That is BS since the clutch cable drags against the dash and a Dakkie comes without a center stand - but I get the idea.

I have set mine just as they say & it rides dead right.

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Thanks, I will give them a call. I suppose they supply both bearings, with the lower bearing fitted with an integral dust seal?

Only source for integral lower dust seal I know of is Moore Speed Racing in the UK.

Ciao,

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Anyone knows who supplies taper steering bearings for a VTEC VFR? I asked my local Honda dealer and the guy at the parts counter was clueless..

Regards,

Bruckner

What is the story on the steering bearings? It sounds like a maybe someday project, but my ride is fine for now.

MD

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Anyone knows who supplies taper steering bearings for a VTEC VFR? I asked my local Honda dealer and the guy at the parts counter was clueless..

Regards,

Bruckner

What is the story on the steering bearings? It sounds like a maybe someday project, but my ride is fine for now.

MD

the ball race bearings are weak, but if you take the time to grease them and tension when new they seem to hold up okay.

most never do that and end up with failing bearings from excessive play

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  • 4 months later...

After totalling a Suzuki GS750 years ago with flat spotted ball bearings, the minute I learned the VFR (and my ST1300) had ball bearings, I ordered an AllBalls kit for each immediately. My 2001 KTM Duke II comes with tapered roller bearings in the steering stem. I assumed that all modern bikes had switched over to tapered roller bearings years ago. I was shocked to say the least to learn that bikes of the supposed quality of the VFR and ST1300 still come with ball bearings in the 21st century.

You haven't experienced a tank slapper until you've experienced one caused by flat spotted balls bearings.

Single sided swingarm, radial tires, tubeless tires, one piece wheels, ABS, linked brakes, fuel injection, catalytic converters, ECM's, stainless steel exhaust systems, halogen headlights, aluminum frames, and they still use ball bearings in the head stock! I couldn't believe it. Ball bearings in the steering stem are so 1970's. I thought they went out with points, condensers, carburetors, and kick start levers.

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It says it will cure the small shimmy on the gold wing. My vfr seems to do the same shimmy my brothers wing does. Will this cure my problem (it's not really that big a deal) how much does it cost, and how hard to change?

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It says it will cure the small shimmy on the gold wing. My vfr seems to do the same shimmy my brothers wing does. Will this cure my problem (it's not really that big a deal) how much does it cost, and how hard to change?

Cured the shimmy in my 3rd Gen. Noticed the bearings just had a slight notch when the front wheel was off getting a new tyre fitted, I hadn't noticed the usual signs when riding. After the new bearings fitted there were lots of other things I noticed had been wrong with the bike, dropping into corners, straight lining. They transformed the bike (it wasn't just the new tyre I rode for awhile before getting around to fitting the bearings).

Job is relatively easy if you are used to tools and bearings and there are some good posts in the maintenance section of "How to's". I didn't have to remove any fairings. Cost in Oz was about $50.

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After totalling a Suzuki GS750 years ago with flat spotted ball bearings, the minute I learned the VFR (and my ST1300) had ball bearings, I ordered an AllBalls kit for each immediately. My 2001 KTM Duke II comes with tapered roller bearings in the steering stem. I assumed that all modern bikes had switched over to tapered roller bearings years ago. I was shocked to say the least to learn that bikes of the supposed quality of the VFR and ST1300 still come with ball bearings in the 21st century.

You haven't experienced a tank slapper until you've experienced one caused by flat spotted balls bearings.

Single sided swingarm, radial tires, tubeless tires, one piece wheels, ABS, linked brakes, fuel injection, catalytic converters, ECM's, stainless steel exhaust systems, halogen headlights, aluminum frames, and they still use ball bearings in the head stock! I couldn't believe it. Ball bearings in the steering stem are so 1970's. I thought they went out with points, condensers, carburetors, and kick start levers.

The advantage of ball bearings other than cost is that they have less resistance than tapered roller bearings which gives the steering on your bike a lighter quicker feel.However, the stock ball bearings just don't last as long.My steering head bearings have developed flat spots so bad (at about 30,000 miles)I didn't feel safe riding the bike anymore.I've got a set of tapered bearings on order from "All Balls".If your ordering steering head bearins from "All Balls" do yourself a favour and also order the front wheel bearing and seal kit.It's only $15 and you'll save on shipping.I"ve heard they're almost $50 from Honda.

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Cured the shimmy in my 5th gen also. I don't think the bearings that were in there had ever been touched, and they still greased but grooved anyway. I torqued the rollers to 15ft/lbs then backed off a little.

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Just finished installing my AllBalls tapered roller bearings this weekend. Fair amount of work. Those things do fit snug top and bottom. The bottom bearing has to be pressed onto the steereing stem, the bottom race is kinda tough to get to to swing a brass hammer. Even the top bearing which on most bikes just slides down the steering stem must be installed with the funky nut to pull it down snug. Tightened it all up until I could feel it binding and then backed off about an eighth of a turn to where every thing felt good and connected but the steering stem turned freely. The steering stem really feels connected to bike now. I think this is going to be a great mod. And you can't beat the price - $29.95 which includes new upper and lower seals.

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Im glad this came up. I dropped my '02 off last night for the recall and for tires. While there, i asked them to check the steering head bearings, as ever since i bought the bike (used), I feel and hear a clunking at times when going over certain types of bumps. I bought the bike with 11k miles on it and have 32k on it now. It hasnt gotten worse at all, and Ive never had a shimmy issue or any other handling problems whatsoever. But on the other hand, maybe the handling has been off the entire time of my ownership, so Ive not known the difference.

Is there a rough mileage when the bearings tend to need replacing on the VFR's? Or is it more dependant on riding style (wheelies, etc)? I dont do wheelies at all; I ride the bike like an adult for the most part. The service advisor seemed pretty confident right off the bat that the bearings will need replacing....but he may also be paid on comission, and i know the service dept is slow right now at my dealer.

Thoughts?

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Oh, and btw, the service advisor asked it I'd ever had them inspected, adjusted or checked at all, and made a point to mention that they shouldve been checked and/or adjusted a couple times given the bike's mileage. Ive never had them checked myself, as I rarely visit the dealership. Is there a point where they can be re-torqued before replacement?

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We each have our own opinion on this topic. Some are happy with ball bearings, I myself, hate them after totalling a bike due to flat spotted ball bearings. I've already changed the bearings in my VFR and will change the ones in my ST1300 also. They use the exact same AllBalls kit so I have all of the tools made up from doing the VFR and know the ins and outs.

The AllBalls tapered bearings are a very precise fit. I guess it just depends on where your values are and what you're looking for in a bike.

I'll add that high quality top of the line bikes such as KTM's come with tapered roller bearings from the factory. I've never heard of anyone removing the tapered bearings from a KTM or similar bike and replacing them with ball bearings. I think you'd get some pretty strange reactions from a KTM or any other expensive European brand dealer if you suggested that.

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Well the dealer just called and said the steering bearings are bad, and that a noticable "notchy-ness" can be felt during their inspection. They invited me up to take a peek after work at them to see what they're talking about. They quoted me about $260 to install the new bearings w/seals...supposedly a bit cheaper than usual because the front end is already off for the recall.

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ADAM, ask your dealer to return the used bearings to you for your inspection.

A sure sign that bearings are over-tight is your bike wanting to go in a left-right s-curve motion while trying to go straight.

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ADAM, ask your dealer to return the used bearings to you for your inspection.

A sure sign that bearings are over-tight is your bike wanting to go in a left-right s-curve motion while trying to go straight.

Or going into a horrendous tank slapper at high speeds and spitting you off.

I've said it before and I'll say it again - ball bearings for the steering stem are 1970's technology. I honestly assumed that all the bikes had gone to tapered roller bearings long ago (my KTM's have tapered steering stem bearings). I was really shocked to learn both my Hondas have ball bearings in the steering stem. Might as well install points and condensers on the ignition system.

Honda (and any other manufacturer who does it) does it as a cost cutting measure. There is absolutley no advantage to ball bearings in the steering stem. Same reason 5th gen exhaust systems were plain steel that rusts in no time. And if you're counting pennies, a set of AllBalls tapered bearings is cheaper than replacing the genuine Honda ball bearings.

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