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Gsxr Mirrors On 6th Gen


Darth Bling
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Not sure how would work with your setup, but I took the socket out of the VFR turn signal and replaced it in the lens housing. Of course I had to rewire the entire thing anyway, so no big deal to wire it 3 wire once the double pole socket was in.

Are you able to pull new wires through the Gixxer stalk?

CornerCarver had some fancy trailer light conversion thingy (literally straight out of the 1950's), but I don't know if he ever got it to work right.

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I will be able to. Darth Bling in his original design had a phillips head screw used to tighten the GSXR mirror, that he drilled thru the center of in order to keep the wire un-seeable inside the GSXR stalk. So right now, unless I can think of something different and better than drilling a hole thru dozens of screws, I'm using the same plan/idea.

So you took the GSXR 2 wires, and....twisted/soldered in the 3 from the VFR? No subdividing them at all? All 5 together?

Edited by wgregt
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Actually it just occurred to me that you probably wouldn't be removing the OE turn signals, which is generally a big goal of 5th Gen'ers (De-Dumboing).

So you wouldn't have the OE socket to use. But there's always eBay!

In the break glass and reassemble method, you only have the housing to reuse. Wires stay in the GSXR stalk, unused. I bought a three pack of red, black, and green wire and rewired the whole thing with bullet connectors to fit through the new hole in the upper fairing.

Then of course, filled and repainted (Or paid someone to do so) the turn signal holes.

I'm guessing you would want to use the "trailer conversion" thingy to convert three wire from the bike to 2 wire to the signal. Or not bother with running lights since you are keeping OE signals? On the 6th Gen, the turn signal holes would make a nice "ram air intake'! :cool:

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You won't need to break the OEM glass. I heated the housing up using halogen shop lights and gently popped the mirror out using a plastic scraper. Once the housing is warm enough, the lip holding the mirror in is easy to get under. I did this several times while mounting my volt meter behind the glass.

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You won't need to break the OEM glass. I heated the housing up using halogen shop lights and gently popped the mirror out using a plastic scraper. Once the housing is warm enough, the lip holding the mirror in is easy to get under. I did this several times while mounting my volt meter behind the glass.

What a great bunch of guys .

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Wgregt, search back through this thread for information on wiring them up. To have the miorrors act as both running lights and signals, you need to put a diode on each of the VFR's 2 "hot" wires -- turn signal and running light -- before you join them to the mirror's single hot wire. I used 1.5amp, 1000v diodes (which I got from a now-shuttered Radio Schack) and they work just fine. You'll need 4 in total.

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4 diodes per signal, Tom? Since each VFR signal has a turn signal wire and a running light wire, each side needs two? I'm going shopping around to see if I can find a Radio Shack still in bid-ness. I know there are a few still around here I heard...

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4 in total; 2 per side -- one for the running light wire, one for the blinker wire. No need for one on the ground wire.

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Ok. I'm guessing what you used, To, is something like this:

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/radioshack-gp15m-silicon-rectifier-diodes-3-pack/2761114.html

I noticed there's a silver band on one end. And THAT end is attached to....the VFR OEM signal wire side, or does it matter? Feel like sketching out a simple drawing for non-electrical guys to follow?

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4 diodes per signal, Tom? Since each VFR signal has a turn signal wire and a running light wire, each side needs two? I'm going shopping around to see if I can find a Radio Shack still in bid-ness. I know there are a few still around here I heard...

Maybe give Fry's Electronics a try - they've got just about any electronic part.

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One more question for you Tom, and I promise to leave you alone:

With the setup you describe, will the mirrors act like the OEM signals/running lights loop: a dimmer running light, then a brighter light when it goes to the signal?

Or will the mirrors act like running lights (full brightness) and then go to fully on and fully off for the signal blink cycle? I've seen it both ways, and I'd prefer they blink/operate exactly like the OEM signals/running lights: first dim as a running light, then brighter when operating like a signal.

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Just went out and checked, and they seem to be the same brightness either way. I'm not sure why,, given that the running light wire is providing the current for the running light functin, and the blinker wire does the same for the blinking function. Unless it's the way the GSXR lights are configured? With only one live wire feeding them, maybe the light can't distinguish between the functions?

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Just found this. Could this be the solution, Tom? It looks like there's another option. Sounds like yours is a mix of both: not on/off, but not dim/bright either.

"This mod comes in two flavors:
1. Relay Option – This keeps your running light at full brightness and the light blinks on/off when the turn indicator is activated.

2. Diode/Resistor Option – This keeps the signal dimly lit, flashing at full brightness when the turn indicator is activated.
"

Link:

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148648

Sounds like I'm missing resistors? Not sure...many of the foto links don't work for me.

Edited by wgregt
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You know what? I just went and checked my 07 6th gen, thinking that the front OEM signals were dim as running lights, then cycled from bright to dim, bright to dim, as the signal blinked.

But I'm wrong, I think. The signals instead start out dim, then cycle on to off (briefly), then repeat. Now I think they operate more like the left side of this video, not the right like I thought. Tom, yours work like the signal on the left as well here?

http://www.r6-forum....ad.php?t=148648

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It's hard to be sure, since I've got my face right next to the mirrors as I reach for the turn signal switch. Nevertheless, it appears that my running lights are brighter than the turn signals -- they actually seem to dim when they start flashing. I am not using any resistors, nor a relay -- just the diodes mentioned above.

All that said, the increase in conspicuity is so substantial that I don't worry to much about it. It's a huge improvement over the stock indicators alone.

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It's hard to be sure, since I've got my face right next to the mirrors as I reach for the turn signal switch. Nevertheless, it appears that my running lights are brighter than the turn signals -- they actually seem to dim when they start flashing. I am not using any resistors, nor a relay -- just the diodes mentioned above.

All that said, the increase in conspicuity is so substantial that I don't worry to much about it. It's a huge improvement over the stock indicators alone.

The diodes serve well as a safety function, but do little else.

If there is voltage present on either the running light feed or the turn signal feed, the bulb will be lit.

Having voltage from both connections simultaneously will not brighten the bulb enough to be of any use.

So, it's not a matter of providing two different signals.

Rather, you wire the mirror as a running light, then use the turn signal feed to activate a relay which lifts ground for that bulb.

You'd want it set up something like this, using a 12 v single pole dual throw relay:

signal wiring

The numbers are the connections on a standard relay.

85/86 are the coil connections,

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It's hard to be sure, since I've got my face right next to the mirrors as I reach for the turn signal switch. Nevertheless, it appears that my running lights are brighter than the turn signals -- they actually seem to dim when they start flashing. I am not using any resistors, nor a relay -- just the diodes mentioned above.

All that said, the increase in conspicuity is so substantial that I don't worry to much about it. It's a huge improvement over the stock indicators alone.

The diodes serve well as a safety function, but do little else.

If there is voltage present on either the running light feed or the turn signal feed, the bulb will be lit.

Having voltage from both connections simultaneously will not brighten the bulb enough to be of any use.

So, it's not a matter of providing two different signals.

Rather, you wire the mirror as a running light, then use the turn signal feed to activate a relay which lifts ground for that bulb.

You'd want it set up something like this, using a 12 v single pole dual throw relay:

The numbers are the connections on a standard relay.

85/86 are the coil connections,

Agreed except for the line "diodes serves well as a safety function, but do little else."

Without the diode (an electrical check valve for us plumbers) the electrical current back feeds from the running light wire to the turn indicator (when connecting any two wire light to the VFR's three wire circuit) and this circuit makes both turn indicator lights on the dash stay continuously lit.

During daytime riding it is annoying, at night is a potentially dangerous distraction.

You could also correct this as I have seen many older VCR owners do back in the day...a piece of electrical tape across the flashing "12:00" on the dash.

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Ahhhh...the old "crank up the car radio to get rid of any annoying car sounds" trick. I had a roommate in college that knew that one well. So....2 diodes AND a relay, for each side? And #30 is the 12v power lead, I'm guessing?

Edited by wgregt
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Without the diode (an electrical check valve for us plumbers) the electrical current back feeds from the running light wire to the turn indicator (when connecting any two wire light to the VFR's three wire circuit) and this circuit makes both turn indicator lights on the dash stay continuously lit.

During daytime riding it is annoying, at night is a potentially dangerous distraction.

You could also correct this as I have seen many older VCR owners do back in the day...a piece of electrical tape across the flashing "12:00" on the dash.

I'm unsure where we disagree.

That's the safety function I allude to.

The diodes do nothing for the subject being discussed; trying to make a single filament bulb function as a dual filament bulb.

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Ahhhh...the old "crank up the car radio to get rid of any annoying car sounds" trick. I had a roommate in college that knew that one well. So....2 diodes AND a relay, for each side? And #30 is the 12v power lead, I'm guessing?

No, 30 is ground and no diodes are needed.

87a is the power lead from the running light circuit.

30 is the path to ground for that circuit (the mirror's bulb).

85 is the power lead from the turn signal circuit.

86 is the path to ground for the turn signal circuit.

Instead of attempting to run the mirror's single filament bulb with two different 12v sources (running light and turn signal), my circuit is interrupting the steady state running light source by opening up that circuit's path to ground for the mirror's bulb.

Attaching the turn signal lead to one side of the the relay's coil (85) and the other side of the coil to ground (86) causes it to open the relay's normally closed contact(87a) at the rate of the turn signal's "blinking"..

Going by the service manual's wiring diagram,

Right side connections off of the existing bulb socket:

Light blue/White - turn signal - connect to 85 on relay

Light blue - running light - connect to 87a on relay

Green - ground - connect to both 30 and 86 on relay

Left side connections:

Orange/White - turn signal - connect to 85 on relay

Orange - running light - connect to 87a on relay

Green - ground - connect to both 30 and 86 on relay

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