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Vtec electrical problems info post


Baileyrock
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I guess this is not a new question, but wasn't able to find the needed information:

-How do I check if my used 2003 VFR had the recall done or not?

If I take the front cowl off and post some pictures of the left side, and the insides of the translucent protective cone, could someone confirm the status?

-Should I call Honda Germany and ask them to check the VIN ?

Thanks!

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Hi mate, from what i see, your bike is ABS model.

As far as i know, the ABS model didn't get a recall for the wiring harness.


I want to report on the effect from my recall.

I left the bike early January and got back it yesterday.

I measured the voltage and this are the readings:


Bike off - 12,36 V

Bike in idle - 14,06

Bike in 5000 rpm - 14,06


I think its all good. From what i see, the RR isn't replaced, so probably the stator isn't replaced too.

But even with that stable voltage, the headlights and driving lights flash when i hold the bike in high rpm and let off the gas.

I'm just happy that i got the bike.

:cheerleader::cheerleader::cheerleader:

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Just looking for confirmation of my VFR's charging system. I'm taking a long trip from Vancouver, BC to Austin, TX in April for the MotoGP and I want to ensure the VFR is working fine.

So:

2002 VFR with 47,000 km. Bone stock. Main harness recall done from the documentation I have. It looks like it lived a good life from the last owner, lots of maintenance.

So at idle I'm making 13.0-13.1 volts

~5000 RPM it makes 13.8-13.9 volts

~5000 RPM with high beams, signals, brake lights on it makes 13.7-13.8 volts

This sounds like it's all good in the hood and I just need confirmation to make myself feel better.

I'll be bringing a volt meter on my trip(s) anyway ;)

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Looks good right now but that can change in a second.

That's good enough for me. I am meticulous with my bikes and will keep on top of it. My best friend has a first gen VFR and has fitted a digital volt meter for obvious reasons. I may do the same :) For the time being, my touring kit has a volt meter in it now. First time I've felt the need to carry that. :)

Edited by Dustin
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Ugh, my '04 has been at the local shop now on it's fourth week with the shop and Honda USA trying to figure out the correct fix. So far it seems Honda is willing to do both (I believe there are two recalls...) recalls but for some reason both sides are scratching their collective heads about getting the main harness to plug in correctly.

I've had the bike for a little over two years (my first bike in my old age) and have no idea what work was or wasn't done on it prior.

Very frustrating.

My local dealership is having me call Honda to lean on them to continue giving help to get this figured out and finally fixed.

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Quick update - one call to Honda USA yesterday and my vfr was ready today. Couldn't stop smiling, man I love my Interceptor.

Love hearing that! And good on Honda USA for taking care of you.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • Member Contributer

If your can stick both fingers in your ears and you have a multimeter, you can test the R/R and the Stator. -- So, do you have a multimeter?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys, I am joining the electrical gremlin club. I have a 2006 with 50000+ and I have had the fried fuse hold wire and draining battery problem. My dashboard only seems to flicker when my battery is about to die. I did get a new battery after the fuse holder fix. I fixed the fuse holder and my battery isnt draining as fast on a 20 min ride, but it still isnt charging and by the time I go back the battery was down to 11vdc running. From what I have gotten in the many hours of reading here and anywhere else is that my stator is going.? On the three plug connector I am getting 13acv ish on one pin and 9acv ish on the others while idling and only going up to 14acv on the one and 11ish on the others with 5000rpm. Does that sound like the stator? I have check my r/r and the diodes seem to all go down to 001. Can the r/r cause a battery drain when off? My connectors are looking good still. even the notorish blue, r/r, and stator connectors are still in good shape.

Thanks for all the imput so far. You guys have giving me hope when the cost of this things at the shop where outside my price range.

Almost all fixed!! New found burnt wires??

Help please!!

You guys have saved me another riding season. Alright I have replaced my r/r and stator with Rick's stator and R/R. Just before I found that it was my stator plug that was draining my battery over night. My diods number on my r/r were off as well. Between the two and the new battery that problem has vanished along with the warmer weather here in Michigan, but I smelled another farmilar plastic burning today. It would seem that the z folded ckp sensor wires(w/y&y) are burnt going into the sensor. The connector looks good but so did my stator and r/r plugs and both units were dead and dying. So question (tightwad) and others who I have followed what is the ckp sensor and what are and what do they do the A32-SG2 and B22-PCP from the wiring diagram going to the ecm terminal. More importantly does the VFRness have connector to these small burning wires or allow them not to folded like they were from the factory? Also what can I excpect to happen now that they are brittle and building resistance. Help please I was feeling so proud even though the stator and reg fix took me 8hrs with two runs for tread lock and gasket maker.

Edited by jsamurai77
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member Contributer

PCIII USB does not light up.

Fuel Pump does not prime.

Is this a fuse issue or has my PCIII failed.

All the usual stuff gets power when turning on key.

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PCIII USB does not light up.

Fuel Pump does not prime.

Is this a fuse issue or has my PCIII failed.

All the usual stuff gets power when turning on key.

Kill switch - either off or needs cleaning? Maybe shoot some contact cleaner in, cycle the switch a couple of times and see what happens.

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Tried that already - I've made the kill switch mistake before (bumped it while working on bike) so I check that first now.

Starter works. Lights work. Dash lights up.

I'll check further next weekend but me thinks my PCIII might have tanked. No way I'm going back to the old fueling (low speed on-off sensitivity and relatively rough V-Tec transition) so I may have to replace it.

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Tried that already - I've made the kill switch mistake before (bumped it while working on bike) so I check that first now.

Starter works. Lights work. Dash lights up.

I'll check further next weekend but me thinks my PCIII might have tanked. No way I'm going back to the old fueling (low speed on-off sensitivity and relatively rough V-Tec transition) so I may have to replace it.

First step is to always disconnect the PC first and go from there if needed.! :wink:

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok, so i had the main fuse wiring short out at the useless white connector so i cut it out patched it up and installed the VFRness, which gave me great charging numbers but then later at night (tonight actually, just installed the VFRness this morning) it felt sluggish and i had my suspicions that i was getting low numbers again and i was right. barely 12.8 - 12.9 at idle and 13.5 at 5K RPM, anyone got any ideas about what else it could be? bad rectifier? thanks for the help

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Stator or R\R I would go head and replace both ..

yea, that's what i was afraid of, i just turned the bike on and it gave me the correct readings this morning but it is annoying as shit to not be able to trust the bike.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...

First off I'd like to thank everyone for taking the time to document the problems and corrective actions they've take to fix our VFR's, since joining the Brotherhood this site has been instrumental in helping identify and fix my electrical woes. A month after getting my 2004 the Stator Fried the R/R and eventually itself, or vice versa, this site was a godsend in aiding in diagnosing the problem and leading the was to Tightwad's VFRNess.

That's the good...

The bad is that the Blue Connector kicked my butt and left me stuck on the side of the road 80 miles from home. Which was bad, what was worse was having to ride those 80 miles two up on an FZ1(insult to injury if every there was such a thing.) Clearly I know the problem and corrected it via the jumper across the connector and the frame, my question is this though... With the old girl tore apart right now is there anything else that needs to be done to improve reliability to prevent a third stranding? Or have I made the required improvements to be able ride without fear of the engine stalling out on the Blue Ridge Parkway?

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I use Oxgard on my connectors. Every winter whilst doing maintenance I make it a point to inspect the critical connections to be sure all is well. Everything's still looking good.

81RY1BEsYTL._SY355_.jpg

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