Member Contributer expvet Posted June 9 Member Contributer Share Posted June 9 Looking to replace the rear rotor and pads on my 2006 non ABS VFR and am considering aftermarket. Any experience or recommendations on brands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 I fitted EBC to my 1200 after one of the OEM discs warped, no issues at all. Brakes are ridiculously good on the 1200 from standard so difficult to know if they're better, but they certainly don't feel worse. HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 Since the brakes are linked, it’s highly recommended to replace all three sets, together. I run Braking of Italy rotors, with DP Brakes pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 39 minutes ago, ducnut said: Since the brakes are linked, it’s highly recommended to replace all three sets, together. ????? If the front brakes are still in good working condition, how does it make an appreciable difference what rotors just the front inner pistons are pushing the pads against when the rear brake is activated? And vice-versa? If I use my brain, hands and feet as a linked brake system, do I have to replace front and rear rotors and pads at the same time too? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 Evidently there is no dirt in Florida. I've never seen such pristine clean machinery outside of the Barber museum! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 8 minutes ago, tbzep said: Evidently there is no dirt in Florida. I've never seen such pristine clean machinery outside of the Barber museum! No kidding! CLEAN. But judging from the tire nubs and rotor wear, I think that is a fresh-as-a-daisy wheel, tire, brakes, chain, sprockets install right there too. Picture worthy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Presson Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 Beautiful and brand new, including the tyre which appears to have zero use. Wish my kit was sooo clean 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 2 hours ago, Captain 80s said: ????? If the front brakes are still in good working condition, how does it make an appreciable difference what rotors just the front inner pistons are pushing the pads against when the rear brake is activated? And vice-versa? If I use my brain, hands and feet as a linked brake system, do I have to replace front and rear rotors and pads at the same time too? It’s plainly stated in the EBC catalog, as attached below. I surmise, it’s because of differing compounds, pad thicknesses, and resulting performance differences. YMMV. 1 hour ago, tbzep said: Evidently there is no dirt in Florida. I've never seen such pristine clean machinery outside of the Barber museum! Those pics are right after a complete disassembly and before getting it back on the road. However, despite being on the road for 6yrs, it’s still that clean. Unfortunately, salt in the air hasn’t been so kind to some of the finishes, like on the chain. I’ve moved back to Illinois and some touching up is on the agenda. 1 hour ago, Captain 80s said: No kidding! CLEAN. But judging from the tire nubs and rotor wear, I think that is a fresh-as-a-daisy wheel, tire, brakes, chain, sprockets install right there too. Picture worthy. You’re correct, sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 14 minutes ago, ducnut said: It’s plainly stated in the EBC catalog, as attached below. I surmise, it’s because of differing compounds, pad thicknesses, and resulting performance differences. YMMV. Got it. Figured you didn't pull that out of thin air. But also, in actual practice on a well maintained bike when you're not drastically changing compound types, I think people will be just fine. But I thank them for the *Safety Notice*, I mean I thank their underwriters. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 I would love to know how the pads would know. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 11 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11 22 minutes ago, bmart said: I would love to know how the pads would know. They are embedded with a chip that senses mismatched pads and sends a disruptive vibratory signal to the Secondary Master Cylinder on the fork, causes it to stick, and starts the process all over. 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted June 12 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12 When I was bleeding the brake fluid in my 2007 the other day I noticed one of the rear pads was well worn. I hardly ever touch the rear brakes, so the linked system is doing its job. Whether the VFR manuals and EBC guides say to or not, I'd at least put eyeballs on the rears once you start seeing wear on the front pads. It has been a while since I changed pads on the 2008 bike, but I think the rear pads were worn on it in a similar fashion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer St. Stephen Posted June 12 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12 2 hours ago, Captain 80s said: They are embedded with a chip that senses mismatched pads and sends a disruptive vibratory signal to the Secondary Master Cylinder on the fork, causes it to stick, and starts the process all over. Captain is entirely correct. Owsley Stanley invented the brake pad sensor chip in 1974. It was slow to catch on but now is loved by all who have mis-matched brake pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 12 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12 11 minutes ago, St. Stephen said: Captain is entirely correct. Owsley Stanley invented the brake pad sensor chip in 1974. It was slow to catch on but now is loved by all who have mis-matched brake pads. Seen here, expressing disdain in your choice to not replace all rotors and pads on a Linked Brake System. "See you in Hell." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted June 12 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12 It was called an LSD unit. Lopsided Stopper Detector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted June 12 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12 15 minutes ago, tbzep said: It was called an LSD unit. Lopsided Stopper Detector. "It's a trip... right into the ditch." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 12 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12 As an owner of a couple of Honda's with linked brakes, I have not adhered to the "replace all pads together" advice. My ST1300 eats rear pads at a much higher rate than the fronts. so I just manage the pads on an as-needed basis. I currently also have mismatched brands of pads too, but so far nothing has exploded and any ditch excursions have been entirely of my own making. Next thing you'll be telling me that I need to have matching brands of tyres front to rear! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted June 12 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12 It is all over when you have to match oil. Just sayin'. 🙂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer expvet Posted June 21 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 21 Confirmed via dial gauge that 6th gen rear rotor is indeed warped. Now asking if anyone is familiar with 6th gen rear rotor replacement. Seems like I will need to remove the rear axle to get the rear rotor out. Is this correct? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted June 22 Member Contributer Share Posted June 22 What does the manual say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted June 22 Member Contributer Share Posted June 22 15 hours ago, expvet said: Confirmed via dial gauge that 6th gen rear rotor is indeed warped. Now asking if anyone is familiar with 6th gen rear rotor replacement. Seems like I will need to remove the rear axle to get the rear rotor out. Is this correct? Yes. You want to remove the large nut, before doing anything else. Once you conquer that, then, move onto further disassembly. Pop the the snap ring off the eccentric and remove that, so you can clean all the junk out of the swingarm. This can present problems, as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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