Presson

Not clear what you mean by I noticed that it started really easy with no difficulty. then attempted it the second time round another day and it was really difficult I had to apply the throttle to keep it going Was the first attempt before or after your SV synch work? Was the second time another day after your SV synch work? Have you checked the MAP? If so what was the result? Have you checked the ECT? If so what was the result?

Have you done the SV synch? Which needs to be done with the engine fully warm You could check the MAP; the procedure is in the manual

No harm in checking the TPS. However, you describe normal operations once warm so as Grum suggests, it is probably worth investigating the MAP and ECT sensors.

Hi Grum. PM sent

Has anyone got PDF version in colour of the 8 Gen wiring diagrams? Planning to get the full 8 Gen workshop manual printed and spiral bound, hopefully on wipe clean paper. Getting a little fed up of scrolling on a tiny screen, or is it my eyes...😵‍💫

Anyone know if SV imbalance/ out of synch causes rough cold starting and a tendency to die on throttle before fully warm? This may be the issue...

Best not to dismantle the wax unit. Clean it up with wd40 and a brush - an old toothbrush perhaps. Clean the linkages on both intake banks.

Ok, so it is beginning to look like condensation rather than anything more concerning at this point. As Captain 80s says, a couple of decent rides, 45 mins to 1 hour, and check how things look. Your report on idle sounds about right. You will know from your previous VFR that honda made them idle high to properly warm up before settling down. If the bike has been sat idle for a time some action will sort me any minor issues out. Let us know how you get on.

Hmm, other opinions needed Tom. Looking at that photo: a. The oil level is just above minimum and a water oil emulsion makes up the rest to the full mark. In cars that would probably indicate a break in the head gasket - not sure about a VFR. Or b. The oil level is higher but the sight glass itself is discoloured and there's a bit of condensation which would not be unusual for a bike that's been sitting over winter. It also looks as though the crankcase has been repainted judging by the poor masking on the sight glass. I think if it was my bike, I would check the coolant level and condition ( hopefully no emulsion in the reservoir), do an oil change and then monitor both over several rides. If the coolant level changes and the oil ends up emulsified then you know you've got a gasket or seal that's failed. Others may have better ideas. Incidentally, on the starting and idle issue you didn't say what rpm the warm idle settled at. For an 8 Gen it should be around 1250 - 1300 iirc. I suspect it's the same for yours

Hi Tom. Skids had a relatively similar issue with his 5th Gen recently. The whole thread is here but ultimately the problem was caused by the wax unit linkage sticking and failing to operate the starter valves correctly. I believe a thoroughly good clean up without disassembly cured the issue. Worth a try; yours (correctly circled in red) does look rather gunky

Hey VFR78, any thoughts or pointers on installing the rear lines on your 8Gen? When I looked, it seemed to require taking half the rear end apart and I thus thought I'd rather be riding.

I did wonder if a degree of colour blindness might be at play here. That would certainly put a different colour on it; if you'll excuse the pun. Good luck 🤞

Electrical fault finding can be very frustrating particularly if ( like me) one is not that experienced at it. That's why many of us use the experts on this site. However, it is really important to follow the steps of advice exactly and report back findings on those steps as requested. That's also the better way to learn because the approach has logical structure. Missing out bits, giving half answers or introducing new stuff makes having the conversation frustrating or downright infuriating. We're all human and everyone offering help on here is genuinely interested in getting a fellow biker back on the road. But being frustrated by half answers will test anyone's patience eventually. I do hope you get this sorted. Cheers!

Here's the link to my efforts. The result photos and points to note are towards the bottom of the thread .

For some reason I am unable to upload a photo today. For the brake line mount on the RHS of the mudguard, I used a longer bolt and a 8-10mm section of aluminium or brass tubing to stand the line away from the plastic. The original clip for the ABS line was reused but bent slightly so the ABS line rubber grommet is held by the clip on the outside and pressed against the new line 3 way connector on the inner side. Hope all that helps.

Well I can't seem to find my post about the job. Nevertheless, from memory: Make sure you have the correct 10mm flare nut spanner for the hard line connectors. A flexible end spanner makes getting at the joints near the steering head easier. On no account try to use a standard or adjustable spanner as the nuts will just round off. Look inside the new connectors to check there's no swarf left from manufacture. There was in mine and would have really messed things up if I'd not cleaned it out. The braided lines are very stiff so you need to assemble everything loosely and turn the handlebars a couple of times to get everything set before you tighten up. The run over the mudguard to the LH caliper created a high spot that can make bleeding the circuit difficult. I got around this by taking the LH caliper off and holding it up on the RH side of the bike to bleed that bit of the run. You may need to get inventive for the line mount on the RHS of the mudguard of you want the line to stand proud of the guard and not wear through the paint. I'll take photo of what I did and post it here in a while. You might want to consider whether a good clean of the calipers, pistons and replacement seals are worth it while you've got everything apart. Stainless steel bleed nipples are a good idea as well- either standard or speed bleeder type.

You can indeed just change the fronts and leave the rear with the original rubber lines. In fact getting at the connectors under the seat area for the rear brake lines on the 8 Gen is a royal pain in the arse. I did post about changing the fronts a little while back. I will try to find it for you.

I am no expert when it comes to electrical stuff but going back to first principles and from what I understand from Grum's detailed and patient advice: 1. There is one relevant wire that goes from the ECT to the instrument panel. It's shown as G/Bu in the diagrams. But the colour may have altered with heat/age. 2. A broken circuit in this wire or a faulty relevant track in the instrument panel will show up as a permanently flashing 270 temp reading. 3. Use of a non OEM or faulty ECT sensor could also cause the permanent 270 flashing reading. Based on the understanding in 1-3 above my approach would be: 4. Confirm which wire runs from the ECT through to the instrument panel relevant pin and check continuity throughout the run including cleaning any relevant intermediate connections. If colours have faded or changed this will need patient methodical checking and I'd recommend a written note of what you find at each connection. If continuity in this wire is good the problem will either be a faulty sensor or a corroded or dirty track in the instrument panel. 5. There is a fault finding test in the manual for the ECT - run that to confirm or eliminate a problem with the sensor 6. If it's not the sensor you will need to check the tracks inside the instrument panel - there are posts on this site of how to do that I hope I've understood this right. As a disclaimer, I have no experience of a 5th Gen and I have not read the 5 Gen manual- this is taken from the advice you've been offered. Good luck.

This is all quite mysterious as the colours don't seem to reflect the appropriate version diagram; assuming you have got the right one for your model. Could the wiring loom have been swapped out for an alternative?

Bad luck mate. A rather sore Muppet (your words not mine) I suspect. Lucky no major damage other than a slightly bent ego, but hey many of us have been there or just scraped through. I do recall that these V4s seem impossibly heavy once you've tipped beyond about 30 degrees. Hope the aches and pains ease quickly.

I would do as Grum suggested by running some fluid through to the secondary cylinder bleed valve just to confirm now that the problem is not in the master to secondary line. Even though it went smoothly when you did a fluid change, there is a small possibility of contamination working from the master down. It is only, what, a 10 minute job. If all okay there, remove, clean and grease the actuator rod and see if that solves the problem; sometimes grit gets onto the drive sprocket end. After that you are onto the RHS and the clutch itself, which frankly from your description seems unlikely.

While you were at the rear brake line, you may as well have taken off the caliper, ejected the pistons, cleaned them up and reinstalled with new seals and rubber boots on the sliders (plus pads if necessary). Easy job and vastly improves the rear brake feel. Er, Dutchy, is it my eyes or is that last photo of yours missing a copper washer between the banjo and caliper body?

Make sure it is connected correctly and not jumpered; do not allow the 12v Black/White wire power to the Brown/Black wire as this Will destroy your ECM? ( Grum's 2 April post). Good luck!

Do you think there is enough material left to run a thread die down to correct the threading? Or have you stripped the threads completely. If the latter, could you recut the bolt/ stud with the next size down ( for example if it was 6 mm cut a new 5.5mm or 5 mm thread) and use an appropriately sized nut? Others may have a better idea

Granny sucking eggs moment here, but please check your wiring to the starter before you plug in the new ECM! Grum's first couple of posts should see you right. Good luck