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I'm looking to change out my OEM windscreen for something else. What are you favorite and why? Post up links to places to purchase if you care to. Thanks!!!

First of all I'm not the first who want to delink a VFR800 there are some thread on this made by eyrwbvfr. After a lot of research I concluded that the last person who make a solution for the de-linkage of the VFR800 98-01 stop making it so I decided to take over. This is my attempt to make a re design of honda part 43111-MBG-000 that will be lighter, better looking and 100% in the specs of the original one to get an OEM look. For this project I re-use the existing hose. This adapter work well with Brembo P2 34 caliper. Part number 120A44110 and 120A44130 have already been tested with it. This solution is 800 grams lighter than the original setup. The part is made of 7075 aluminum and anodized color of anodized available are bright black or clear bright. I don't know if there still interest in something like that but here what it look like : The original hose fit perfectly: Here original part weigh vs new. if any one is interested few of them are available for 240$ + shipping.

Hi Folks, I have a low-mileage unit for sale which is currently boxed up ready for my return to Oz. However, if you're in the Americas, UK or Europe, now would be the time to get it as the shipping from Peru (Sth. America) would be cheaper. $USD500.00 + Postage Postage USA Certified Economy S/.294.10 Certified Priority S/.357.00 Express S/.428.60 UK Certified Economy S/.327.00 Certified Priority S/.376.60 Express S/.488.50 https://www.serpost.com.pe/Cliente/CalculadoraTarifa If you can't access the above page you may need to use a VPN. Hasta luego.

I love the OEM quickshifter on my VFR800X and would like one on my 5th Gen. Healtech do one. Does anyone have any experience with this on the 5th Gen? Insights, fitting etc would be appreciated.

Another issue I'm struggling to answer is the tightening of the rear PCV bleed valve located beneath the seat, alongside the rear tank mount. I've replaced the brake hose into the PCV and need to tighten it but it's so far below the bleed valve that I can't get a socket on it and therfore cannot connect my torque wrench so how do you torque it? Do I need another tool for this job? Also, what the correct torque? I'm thinking 34Nm. Thanks in advance.

I realise I'll probably get some contrasting views but here goes... Do I need to change the air filter on my recently acquired '01 5th Gen? The current one has done less than 100 miles but has been in place for 11 years. Yes, that's correct, 100 miles in 11 years (one of the reasons I bought her) and no, there are no bird or rat nests in it, it looks hardly used but I don't know if the material deteriorates over time and affects the air flow rates??? If I'm honest, I don't know why I'm asking, I've spent so much on her so far that what's another £20 so perhaps I'm just asking out of interest.

I own a '00 5th gen. Okay so i have done a bit too much reading and now i have started to completely confuse myself, and a little lost. I am experiencing some weird clutch work similar to this video but not as bad. It seems to happen more often when the engine (and thus the clutch pack) is cold. Once it warms up its practically gone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_k7bY-z2eE Now i figured it would be good to open up the crankcase and have look. Before i do so I want to order in parts so i dont get stuck halfway through a job (i live in an appartment so i gotta finish what i start) I have already ordered new springs as i suspect they havent been touched by previous owners. And now when ordering clutch friction plates i need to know which one to get. There is a difference in # plates, and the exclusion of the friction spring in the 00-01. Does anyone have a part number for lets say EBC or ferodo (or another good brand alternative) for the '00 model. Because i dont know if its just the difference in number of plates, or if theres also a difference in thickness. (cant find any material for that) For Reference, this one is yanked out of the service manual. Hope someone can clarify and put this confusion to bed for me 😄 PS: I do not know if this is relevant, but the first few mm of clutch lever pull seem to be very 'loose', kinda feels like a cable lever that has not been adjusted in a while (clutch fluid was done at the start of this year)

Looking for a 5th Gen LEFT side mirror. Thanks for your help.

A year ago I went down the path of de-linking my VFR brake system. The front brakes were pretty straight forward using the VTR setup. However, in the rear, it was a bit more involved. I didn't want to use the OEM caliper and modify it. So, I designed an adapter that mounts on the existing hanger to mount a standard Brembo P32 caliper. If you are planning to de-link your VFR800, 5th gen, this is a good solution for the rear brake. It gets rid of the large OEM caliper. This adapter bolts on to the stock hanger and will mount a Brembo P32 caliper in the same OEM underslung position. The advantage of this adapter over a complete hanger is that disassembly of the hub and spindle is not necessary. Well, also, it is simpler and therefore lower cost. You will need to make sure to source the correct version of the caliper as there are a few available. You must get the version where the bleed nipple is on the side closest to the mounting ears, same side of the banjo bolt. I got the version where the bleed nipple was farther from the mounting ears. It completely crashes the spokes and the tire valve. As you can see in the attached pictures, the bleed nipple and banjo bolt are on the side opposite the wheel when mounted. The P34 version is slightly bigger (34mm vs 32mm) and the pads may be too big for the rotor. Also, make sure you have enough brake line length reach the caliper. Bleeding will be no more difficult than the stock one. Although, it may be easier to flush/bleed it before mounting. Anyway, this is just an interest check to see if it is worth making another batch of five or more. Cost will be around the same of $125 plus shipping. Edit. added the following: DISCLAIMER: * For off-road use only. * You modify your bike at your own risk. * You are responsible to decide if these components are good enough for the use or abuse you will subject them to. * In using these components, you agree that I am in no way responsible or liable for anything that happens to or because of them. * If you don't think they are up to the job, or if you don't think you can accept responsibility for mounting and using them, please return the item and I will issue you a prompt refund. * When mounting, use thread lock and/or safety wire all fasteners.

Hello everyone glad to be here, I recently bought a very clean 1998 VFR 800 with 36k on the clock. Hard to find them for cheap in my area while also being this clean. Came with stock windshield, exhaust, Honda service manual, another slip on exhaust, race cover, and a few other goodies. Sound like a good deal at $2400? Looked at another for $2100 with less miles but it sat for 6 years and the owner had to have the tank fixed from rust. Figure fork seals and things of the sort would be dry and go bad quickly making it more expensive in the long run. I only noticed two things I was unsure of, 1 being the motor sounds a little ticky. It does seem like the slip on may have a small exhaust leak so I will fix that soon but it does sound like I can hear some ticking from the motor. Would this be valves? Previous owner states valves were checked at 15k and 30k and were in spec. I used to own and rc51 which also has gear driven cams, I feel like it was a bit ticky aswell but I can’t remember. Should I be concerned, what could I do to further diagnose? Also the clutch seems to bite when the lever is almost all the way out, it is adjusted as close to the bars as possible already. Any ideas how to adjust the clutch or is it a problem with the hydraulics? Thank you so much! I’ve been looking for a clean 5th gen for a while and I’m in love with it already. excuse the messy garage.

Recently replaced both my headlamps with halogens and they worked great for about 2-3 weeks but on the last ride of the year I went out to turn the bike on and they wouldn't come on. Does anyone know why that may be happening? I checked the fuse under the seat and it was fine.

Had to sell my beautiful 5th Gen recently and found the box of rare parts I never had time to instal. The big ticket items are namely rare Corbin seat (removable passenger backrest), DMr fork kit, and brake de-link kit. None of these were inexpensive, so my loss is your gain.CORBIN LADY GUNFIGHTER SEAT -- SOLD!!! -- This kit was originally $700 which is hard to believe. The leather saddle works in conjunction with the Honda seat cowl for a cool solo look or remove the seat cowl and install the handrails for two up sport touring. With the cowl removed, the saddle design accepts the Corbin removable backrest which is included in this sale. Saddle mounts to the stock internal hardware for a clean installation and is fully adjustable to provide your passenger with a tailored fit. Backrest locks in with a single bolt. SOLD!!! -- 5TH GEN BRAKE DE-LINK KIT -- SOLD!!! -- This kit allows you to convert your 5th gen linked brakes to a standard style setup by swapping VTR1000 (Super Hawk) fork lowers on the 5th gen upper fork tubes and replacing the stock brake parts with standard brakes from Honda models including CBR600 and RC51. I’ve curated nearly every part needed for this from operational, non-damaged parts ordered on eBay over the past year. The only items you will need to purchase are rear brake lines.De-Link Kit Includes:* 2003 RC51 SP2 front brake hose/lines (part num: 45125-MCF-D31) * 2003 CBR 600RR front brake master cylinder assembly (part num: 45510-MEE-006)* 2003 RC51 SP2 rear Brake calipers (part num: 45150-MCF-D32)* 2006 CBR 600F4i rear brake master cylinder assembly (part num: 43510-MBW-E12)* VTR1000 fork lower/ fork case (part num: left side 51520-MBB-003; right side 51420-MBB-003)* 5th Gen Fender mounting brackets from Mello Dude Garage -- these allow you to keep the 5th gen stock fender and mount direct to the VTR1000 lower fork legs. SOLD!!! -- DMr FORK CARTRIDGE KIT -- SOLD!!! Originally purchase for $595 a few years ago. The DMr cartridge kit offers a complete fork upgrade with the addition of having the valving preassembled - that means you do not need to have prior fork revalving experience to install it. The is new in box (NEVER installed) with detailed instructions that guide you through every step. Kit includes all new compression valving, new rebound valving, damping rods and adjustable cap assemblies. Springs are also included.According to Daugherty and folks here on VFRD, there is no other fork upgrade available on the market that offers this level of performance at this price.Kit Includes:* All new DMr BD Series compression valving* All new DMr BD Series rebound valving* Includes springs and spacers for a direct fit* New damping rods and adjustable caps* Adds external damping adjustment on models not equipped from the factory* Valving setup and spring rate configured specifically for each rider and application* Utilizes OEM cartridge tubes, no need to pay for what you don't need* All valving parts are preassembled* Includes detailed instructions for easy installation

Any one got images of how this Kappa Monokey Luggage Tubular Motorcycle Side Case Holders - KL257 go on the bike with the Givi 257FZ Monorack arms? I have bolts and spacers but no order of where they go 🙄

The VFR was a street legal 2001 without Dual CBS and with a GPR exhaust and metal braided tubes - nothing more according to the poster. Bridgestone BT 016 PRO tires. Almost 54,000km on the clock. Proves the point that the rider's skills are more important than all the power mods in the world. I am not sure what that momentary screech is at about 4'.20''

What is voltage that I should be getting to the ECM? Coming out of the 30 Amp Main fuse A, I am getting 12+ volts at the red wire, but only 0.50 volts at both the Green/Red and Yellow/Red wires.

Hi VFRD, I have a question regarding the linked brakes (no, I will not de-link). I have ridden the VFR after winter pause and I noticed something. If I apply the front brake first, than the rear brake and let go of the front... The rear brake lever falls down by a few centimeters as if there was not enough brake fluid. Normally I would not ask but I don't remember this happening before winter and the bike just had a fluid change. It is either a bad fluid change or my bad memory. The latter being slightly more possible. So can you please go out and try this on your 5th gen? PS: My thoughts are that this should happen because of how the secondary brake cylinder works but I need it confirmed.... You know... I sort of don't want to crash...

Hi! Name is Cale. For sale I have a 3rd owner, has roughly 34,000 miles. Purchased it with 20,000. Always maintained, in fantastic condition. This bike has been nothing be great to me. Multiple trips from central indiana to Smokey Mtns, Ridden the full Blue Ridge Parkway on her as well. Wanting to get into track days and the VFR just isn't for it 😕. Looking to sell or trade for 600cc or daytona/Speed/street triple, dropped/lowsided is OK! Contact me on here or via text 765-432-0602. **Can send more photos if needed! Milage will continue to increase slightly as I can't keep myself off of it when the weather begins to get warmer. $3000 OBO! Add-ons: - Two Bros. Slip on (have stock muffler as well - TPMS - Power Commander 3 - HELI bars (stock bars are installed currently) - VFRness (haven't needed to install it) - new brake pads (EBC) **small scratch pictured that was attempted to color match by the 1st owner is the biggest flaw

Hi guys, My VFR has been perfect so far but today it left me stranded for the first time. Situation: I have the VFRness installed. 13.4V at idle is my charging current. I have done about 150kms after winter break. (trouble free). Today I washed the VFR and some symptoms appeared. 1) When I turned the blinker on speedo and tach died for a second (dead while the bulb of blinker was on for the first time) 2) Speedo and tach dead when I turned the blinker on every time the bulb turned on. 3) Speedo and tach dead every time I pressed brakes. - I stopped at the side of the road. VFR refused to start again. Pump primed but starter didn't move after the button press. After I pressed the starter button pump primed again as if I turned the ignition on and off. 4) My friend came to rescue me with a new battery. (12V-12Ah insted of 12V-10ah) bike started right away and finished the 12 km journey home without issues (lights were off). When I came home I tried blinkers again, no issues. New battery had 12,4 V (engine off), 13,1V at 1500 rpm The old battery had 11.6V and is now charging. My questions are: Why? What happened? Is there an issue with Reg/Rec? (it is charging now so how can that be?) Could it be water from the washing? Thanks!

Hello All, I've stumbled over a very low mileage 8th gen parts bike right when I’m rebuilding my 5th gen. Got me thinking what new stuff I can transfer off the later bike to my poor old 5th gen. I know someone has transplanted 6th gen throttlebodies onto a 5th gen (although the thread doesn’t specify any benefits in doing so). So is the 8th gen compatible? Are there any different sensors or mounting issues? The injectors alone would be a great upgrade (12 holes vs single hole on 5th gen = mpg gains and better atomisation). Also, most 5th gen parts are now well used whereas 6th and 8th gen parts are fresher. Rubber parts are the worst-hit. Prices tend to be the same. Are the rubber intake boots interchangeable between generations? I’m even tempted to have the 8th gen airbox to play with. Don’t want to spend money and find nothing fits. Thanks in advance for for your help. Stray

Hi, What's the most miles anyone here has gotten out of a 5th gen? I have a 2001 800FI CA. model. I'm at 75K and it's still running great. Of course I do all the recommended service. Change the oil & filter every 3-4K. I've changed all of the fluids twice, brake, clutch, coolant. Rebuilt the forks twice, 3 chains and 2 sets of sprockets. I've had the valves adjusted twice, well, checked twice. I've only needed one valve actually adjusted and that was at 68K. I just recently bought the 3rd battery. That's about it. I have the usual basic mods, forks revalved, speedo healer, Power Commander, frame sliders, geared down a tad, LeoVince slip-on, EBC wave rotors, EBC GPFA pads, Zumo 550. I'm sure it's due for a rear shock so I'm debating a 929 setup from Jamie Daugherty in the next few weeks. I figure if I just keep looking after it, I should get another 70K. Think I'm dreamin? It's been the most fun and reliable bike I have had or have known any friends to have either. I commute daily and most weekends try to get in a couple hundred miles of twistys. Some decent roads in No. Cal. What's the most miles anyone has heard or has accrued? It seems there should already be some sorta thread like this already but I can't seem to find it. Maybe someone can point me toward it? Cheers!