CurtBrass
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Wasn’t getting the neutral light, so checked the sensor. The wire leading to the sensor felt loose and when I pulled it gently it came out of the frame. Where can I find a new wire, and a wiring diagram so I can splice it back into the system?
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So the ECM arrived, plugged it in and it started right up. Thanks, Grum, for all your help!
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Thanks Grum, I installed a Mosfet FH020AA R/R from Roadstercycle and a new stator last year when I first started trying to find the problem, so the voltage should be good, but I'm going to get a voltage meter to install as well. I really hope that there are no more surprises
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Well, I just ordered an ECM. I'll let you know how it turns out when it arrives in a week or so. Thanks again, GRUM, for all your help.
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I've already replaced the R/R and stator. Any idea where I can get a new ECM?
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Did as directed and Yes, Fuse B blew as soon as I turned on the key.
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Ok, ESR is energizing and Fuse B is not blowing
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I did as suggested and and no blown fuse. I tried it both with and without the FSR installed since I wasn't sure if you wanted it in. I didn't hear any clicking (energizing) at either relay.
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My apologies, cut and paste error. I unplugged the grey ECM and probed the Blk/Wht socket there. With the ECM plug still pulled I then probed from the ESR Blk/Wht to the negative terminal on the battery. the reading started low and just kept rising. I unprobed at about 3.4
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With Red lead on ESR Blk/Wht and black lead on Blk/Wht at ECM plug, I get a reading of 0.4 With Red lead on ESR Blk/Wht and black lead on Blk/Wht at negative terminal, I get a reading that keeps rising
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Yes, It's a Fluke meter, and he's lending it to me as long as I need it. He has a few. I have done a visual inspection of relay bases and they seem good, no sign of any corrosion or overheating on the wires, and no cracks or anything like that. Is there any way that I can test for voltage bleedover (or whatever it's called)?
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So with the fancy auto ranging meter, Placing one probe on Battery Neg terminal and the other on the ESR Black/White Terminal, I get a reading of 0.4
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Sorry for overlooking your questions earlier. When I first had the problem, I followed some advice on this site and checked the stator and R/R. Both looked to be shot, and the connector was black and burnt, so replaced both as well as the battery. But I assumed that they wouldn't be causing my short circuit, although bad voltage out of them probably contributed. I was also burning out headlights before the bike died, so while it has been dead I also replaced headlight wiring with Eastern Beaver H4 assembly, headlights work when key turned on. The headlight issue was probably connected to the bad stator and R/R, and the Eastern Beaver assembly seems like a quality bit of wiring. Other than that I have not done any mods whatsoever, and the bike was very stock when I bought it in early 2018. With my crappy Ohmeter set at 200, I am getting no reading at all. But my neighbour is an electrician and he'll be home soon, so I'll borrow his Ohmeter and get back to you asap.
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Hi CurtBrass, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
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Hello GRUM, Mother's day is now over and I'm back at it. I've been to Australia a few times but never made it to Melbourne, but I certainly owe you several rounds of whatever you drink. Followed your last instructions for the BAS and with the BAS connected, Fuse B removed and Ignition on, I am getting a clicking (energizing) at the ESR when I toggle the Kill switch. I understand your comment that I appear to have a short on the Blk/Wht wire. Sadly, the Blk/Wht wire seems to go a lot of places, so I assume that I will have to test it segment by segment? Using my Ohmeter, I seem to have a good connection on the Blk/Wht wires from the ESR to the Fuel Cut Relay (FCR). When I use the Ohmeter to probe from the Blk/Wht wires from either the ESR or the FCR to the Blk/Wht wire at the PFM-FI/ECM, it shows no continuity. Obviously a short, but not sure if it helps narrow it down.
