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Mohawk

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Everything posted by Mohawk

  1. It's all Nuts, every motor build nowadays is wheeled/driven out of the final assembly point & thrown on a dyno & worked through the full rev range in all gears. Some have power measured either everyone or every so many to ensure they are coming off the line with relative power delivery. After that all you need to do is avoid over heating, revving or lugging the engine, just keep it spining freely at all times until it has a few heat cycles & a reasonable mileage on it. The free spinning allows the rings/bores/bearing to bed in. Change the oil & filter at 500-1000 miles, depends if it has cutting or stock oil in it. Job done ride and look after as per service manual. YMMV
  2. About 10-15% same as with most bikes, never believe a stock speedo. I've since had the bike up to a real 155mph & it was still accelerating, I had to back off because what I thought of as a smooth road before was not that smooth & the bike was wheelieing off the small crests in the road ! My bike makes 120hp on a known good dyno, so I assume the ramair adds a bit more ! I keep trying to arrange a top speed run to find out how fast it really will go.
  3. The pivotless frame used on the 800 series VFR's & the VTR1000 & CBR929/954's, was not intended for belt drive. It was designed as a weight saving & space saving measure. If a bike is lighter its usually better regardless of power output, if its narrower where your feet sit, it needs less ground clearance for the same lean angle, a lower CofG results in more stable/predictable handling. That said when I look at how much alloy is saved from the frame, but recreated in the back of the crankcase & the peg hangers (or cushion as Honda call it) I don't think much weight was saved, but they certainly are narrower than full side frame versions.
  4. The wear indicator for a chain is useless. Check your rear hub is the correct way up. It should have the axle at the bottom, some people turn it over if they are short of leg.
  5. How many miles on the engine ? Blue smoke = oil burn, on deceleration that is normally valve seals, but thats not guaranteed. Honda engine valve seals are normally good for >100K/miles if engine maintenance is good. That said a friend with a 1200, found one valve rocker & roller lobe badly worn/pitted. Honda UK replaced the parts FOC even though it was out of warranty, he did the work himself. So may be worth a look under the valve cover !
  6. OK unless I'm missing something it does not appear to have a cooling circuit ! I can see an expansion tank but NO rads ! One idea I've had for ages would be to build 3 x VFR800's into a V12 aero engine ! If tuned to 130hp each at the crank, then combined normally aspirated it should be a 400hp motor, now with super/turbo charging, that would rise to MAX power of around 550hp or maybe a bit more ! From an engine that weighs in around 150Kg or less. It would be great for a 1/2 or 2/3 scale Warbird engine.
  7. I used VFR400 Titanium sprocket carrier bolts for my disc bolts when I changed the axle. They are flat headed, so fit inside the recess on the wheel side of the axle plate.
  8. PS re the CRF250 M/C they only have a 10mm piston, so will work with a single piston caliper, but probably NOT well with that opposed piston caliper. By the way what caliper is that ? Looks sweet :)
  9. Where did you get that torque figure for the RC45 ? Thats a pretty big number @ 206lb/ft ! The left side of the axle is only 120lb/ft (162nm) & the right side of the standard through bolt single nut is 84-90lb/ft (122nm)
  10. If you just want the numbers then water injection is a short boost bet. For an intercooler, IIRC the Toro charger does away with most of the airbox volume & uses some space for other fitting for the SC. But there is still spare volume under the tank. The best intercoolers are air-water-air units that cool the charge via a pumped water reservoir. So replace the Plenum, with an air-2-water intercooler, mount a small rad down in front of the engine/headers & use a car heater boost pump to pump the coolant round ! Job done ! Add water injection for serious boost levels :)
  11. I used the gold valve emulators that I bought for my VF500 but never got round to fitting to my CBF250 without modifying the rods I used thinner oil to compensate. They worked great like that !
  12. The steering is unlikely to be affected due to the new profile of the new tyre. The speedo will read slightly closer to REAL as they all over read as standard.
  13. Already being sold, plain old oil or grease ! That's what swells them, beccause they are NOT rubber, but are a hydrocarbon based man made rubber, which absorbs HC lubes ! Use red rubber or a NON HC based lube !
  14. If anyone fancies upgrading their tyres with Radials, then Avon do the RoadRider in all good sizes http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/motorcycle/roadrider they conveniently quote rim sizes for there fitment & alternative ranges.
  15. Standard indicators use a bi-metal resistence strip to contact heat & cool to repeat. If you lose a bulb, it should flash twice as fast as an indication that something is wrong. If both bulbs are good, then one will be of an incorect wattage causing them to blink either to fast or to slow !
  16. The lever is the same as any other bikes, just has a lump in it for the sensor. Quick shifter allows clutch less up shifts, which is a better way than using the clutch, you get full power changes for acceleration or very smooth changes if cruising or caring a passenger ! I don't have a 2014 but do have QS on my 5th gen. As an FYI if anyone wants QS on an bike, Healtech do a load sensor one that will work with 5/6th gen fixed gear levers ! I've not used it, but saw it at the bike show a couple of weeks back.
  17. It must make 190hp after such a long jestation :)
  18. The 5 & 6th gen internal ratios are different, so as the original poster has a 5th gen, then you need to work from the OE of 17/43. 16/43 or 16/44 will give the best compromise of faster acceleration, but with minimal effect on mpg. I f you want the best of both worlds as stated, then you need a Rapid Bike fuel module with custom tune or MTB with 13.8 or 14-1 AFR across the board, or only in the cruise rpm range & richer elsewhere or use the fuel accelerator pump setting to get richer when you wind the throttle on & lean burn at all other times.
  19. Wow what's it like to own a very low volume bike ? Honda just inadvertently told us how poor sales have been. "(Total 2) (Two models) (Scope of the entire production life cycle) 3/2/2010-9/2/2015 (1852 bikes)" That's 1852 bikes sold in 5 years ! Or approx 370 per year, I assume that's world wide ! That's the kind of numbers sold in the UK at the moment for most major bikes in the 600-1000cc size range ! That's very poor numbers. Must be why the RCV213S costs so much to recoup losses ! :(
  20. Nah belt drive, lighter, cleaner nicer & if on a 5th gen style pivot less frame, easy to change !
  21. Well your launch would be harder, but your top speed would NOT increase, drag stops the bike accelerating before gearing does ! A bigger rear sprocket would increase your acceleration rate & the right one might allow a minor increase in top speed at the red line in top. But you have to weigh up the extra revs at all times, verses the extra fuel burn & do you need it ? Run the numbers via gearing commander.
  22. The problem with thick oil is whilst it improves the damping, it reacts badly over harsh bumps. I fitted ReaceTech emulators to mine & they were excellent. Rather than remove the dampers & enlarge the damping holes, as per their advice on installation, I fitted them as they came on minimum setting & used 5w oil. They also add 20mm of preload which is great. YMMV
  23. Well #3, No performance parts are NOT generally available bu the engine does respond well to some basic external changes, exhaust intake etc. At least one forum member in Norway has Turbo charged a VFR800, can't recall his name, but check on here with some searches.
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