Cogswell

Cooncidental this should come up. I installed my 847 last year and I am having the >exact < same issue. Better weather finally arrived the past 2 days so I went out for for my 1st '22 ride for a couple of hours. The 1st 30 minutes, no problem. By the last 30, these issues surfaced - again. Over the winter months I replaced the lousy self reset circuit breaker with a 30 amp maxi fuse. Also checked the stator connector wiring for resistance, all good. I'm using Mello Dude's mounting plate. Battery checks out on a load test. Last year to test the stator, I ran it without bodywork. Upon return to the garage, stopped the engine, immediately pulled the plug from the R/R and checked stator output with the engine good 'n hot. It was something like 60 volts st 5,000 rpm. Voltage and resistance checked out fine when hot. Mostly mine acts up when idling. Yesterday I stopped at a traffic light and the fan was running. 12.4 to 12.5V indicated. I began bringing rpm's up to finally 8,000 and it just got to 13V indicated. And I'm running HID headlights, so there's much less current draw than stock. Only when I got moving again did the voltage finally return to the mid 13s - fan still going. Fan off back to 14.2. I contacted Jack last year after I experienced this and the reply to me was "it's your stator". Hmmm. Let's see, it's an OEM Honda unit with 10,000 miles on it. And, prior to the 847 I did not have these issues. And, the stator checks out when hot. Frankly I think it's one of several possibilities. 1. Jack himself is getting snookered and is unknowingly selling Chinese crap knockoffs. 2. The 847 just isn't as good as he says it is. 3. He's just full of crap. He seemed to have no willingness to at least check it out, just points the finger at the bike's system. Even if he did put it on his R/R dyno, it would be in his nice, cool shop, and he'd likely send it back and say "it's fine". Needless to say I'm extremely disappointed in the 847 (at least the unit I got) and Jacks lack of support. You bought it, you own it, no returns or adjustments. I'll probably run it again this year, but will be looking for another solution.

That bike was ka-rusty . . . I've not seen one end up like that. It's sort of the opposite of the owner well-loved bike . . . this one might have a stack of dealer service invoices, but it turned out terribly. This guy may not even keep receipts, but I'd very happy to buy that bike from him when he's finished. He's doing a good job of resurrecting it. I like his approach to fixing things that are NLA, such as the small rubber boot covering one of the switches on the instrument panel or welding up patch pieces to repair the headers. The plastics should prove interesting . . .

Nothing at all boring about these. I can listen to GDC whine all day long . . . What I really should do is play these whilst wrenching in the garage so I can hear it.

I'm not tracking with how this could be a hydraulic master / slave cylinder bleed issue. The default with the clutch lever at rest (out) is for the clutch to be engaged. Air in the system compresses and prevents the clutch rod from applying force to the clutch stack to dis-engage engage the clutch (slip). He's saying the clutch is out and the clutch is slipping, so air in the hydraulics cannot be the problem. If the slave cylinder is maybe partially seized or somehow the master or combination of parts are not allowing the system to release the pressure on the clutch rod, that could be an issue. Since the fluid was nasty when you changed it maybe there are some corroded parts or plugged passages in that could be the source. Since your clutch was slipping before it was serviced, that could warrant further investigation. Just to be clear - I think it's a matter of semantics or language translation, you mentioned clutch "oil". Did you mean hydraulic fluid? The master / slave system requires the correct fluid, an oil is not specified for that application. Once the hydraulics are sorted and known good, then it's probably worth going back over the clutch pack installation. Leaving a disc or steel out of the stack, or getting them out of order could be the problem - I'd be inclined to take it back out and double check your work, comparing to the factory service manual to see that everything is as it should be. I don't believe you mentioned - did you use OEM parts, or aftermarket? If the latter, it would be worth measuring them to be sure they match OEM specs for the components.

I've heard claims to the contrary, but my experience has been exactly the same as yours, though with other brands. As soon as the offending front tire was changed out, the shimmy disappeared.

Another OEM pad user here as well. While I haven't tried aftermarket pads on the bikes, my guess is that the perception of "more bite" or "feel" from aftermarket pads is similar to the "butt dyno" perception of installing a K&N filter and having more power output. OEM pads were produced to Honda's spec and QC standards as well as engineered to match the rotor material. Those rotors are extremely expensive to replace and OEM pads give satisfactory braking performance while remaining kind to the rotors and not chewing them up. The "heat pad" is more likely there to absorb high frequency vibrations that causes the irritating squealing or screeching from the pads during braking. I don't recall the OEM pads having that feature and they have never made any noise on my bikes. If you go through the above procedure and continue having the same issue, swapping back to OEM pads should solve your problem. Alternatively, you could place a piece of coarse sandpaper, 80 to 100 grit should do it, on a flat surface and sand the pads on it a bit to remove excess material. Be sure to vary the direction of sanding to prevent cutting grooves in the material and to keep the face of the pad square with the backing plate. YMMV with that approach.

Looking at those curves, it visually mirrors how I instinctively ride it - 4,000 to about 9,000 is my operating range. Beyond 9,000 there is very little additional power to be had and torque is beginning to fall off, so time for the next gear up! I don't recall ever hitting the rev limiter.

Here are the published numbers from Motorcyclists' MOTY review of those bikes when new. Boy do I miss the MC mags . . . 97hp at 10,500 and 54.9 ft-lbs at 8,500. Maybe more important to me than peak numbers is the flat torque curve - what makes these bikes such a delight to ride. The article is in the downloads section and can be accessed from the link below. Motorcyclist MOTY review https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/138-motor-cyclist-5th-gen-review-moty-sept-98/&do=download&csrfKey=917625ef3f805764d39220cfe0fdb5f9 Cycle World review from 1998 https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/120-cycle-world-5th-gen-review-may-1998/&do=download&csrfKey=917625ef3f805764d39220cfe0fdb5f9

Seems as though every so often there's a thread about instrument cluster issues or failures that relate to aging circuit boards - corrosion, connections, broken traces, etc. Is there any collective wisdom about any preventive maintenance that can be done to head at least some of that off? Or, is it just ride it and fix it if it fails?

Personally, I'd prefer a well loved bike from a meticulous owner regardless of mileage or receipts vs one that's been dealer serviced with a whole notebook of invoices. A well cared for machine will show that to you and conversation with the owner will confirm it's true. There are plenty of members on here that fit that bill very well. Unfortunately, most owners like that rarely part with them.

Gotta love the Mullet . . . !

With the V4 the sound with the right exhaust is intoxicating . . . I'm not knocking it, but the boxer for me would be an acquired taste. I'd probably take to it, but it wouldn't be love at first sight as with the V4.

That's above my pay grade . . .

Mohawk I believe posted a thread some years ago about replacing those with braided steel hose. Mite check that out. If you're thinking of using bare rubber hose, it will be vulnerable to debris entering. Don't forget the pressure those lines are subjected to, even a small cut could result in a gigantic mess and loss of oil pressure.

What an ordeal. At least they're responsive and trying to make it right for you. That I think, counts for a lot. Best of luck with it.

Wish I could join. Safe riding to all. Post pics!

These are relatively short stroke motors and unlike a car want some more revs to produce adequate torque. Short answer is that you should always be above 3,000 rpm while riding. Give it some revs, it doesn't mind a bit ( that doesn't mean to rev the piss out of it constantly tho). There's nothing wrong with it, keep it no less than about 3,500 to 4,000 and enjoy.

Or oil out . . .

Note that Fedex and UPS along with numerous other compaines around the globe have ceased operations in / out of Russia. I don't know about national postal operations, but if so that would not surprise me.

I find some insect carnage on the inside of my screen when I remove it for cleaning, tho I don't know how much of that is coming up and actually striking my helmet, etc. It's not a big deal tho and since it's a dark screen, it's not visible.

Is that "The Yellow Peril"?

Is the lower chin fairing in the "V" going to fit over the 8th gen rad? Mods for that in store?

She really bulked up and got a tan between thumbing the starter and riding off . . .

I've got fingers crossed for you that this sorts it.