Plavna

And the author of the thread never replied what it was but it had same symptoms as I have now, hot starts, like weak battery or starter motor problems. My thread I guess in the end I will check the starter clutch and replace the springs in the winter.

Still persist but less noticable. Next move new holder with brushes for starter and oil change.

Cleaned these bolts, wires, battery cables. Also this is what I was talking about. Starter relay plug is bit melted, inside is looking fine and on the side is a melt. I isolated with a duct tape that part. Doubt that is the culprit but can be potential problem for something in the future. It was like that when I bought it so it didn't spread or something in the meantime. I guess it was cuz r/r failure in the past or something else. - Im countinuing chasing gremlins... :D

Red arrow, I have this on my 3rd gen, don't know from which part is this wire. Blue arrow- I don't have there any wire on 3rd gen. Its just a holder for coils or smth.

Also are there any other engine grounds to check except that main one on the left side from the negative battery terminal?

Update: Temperature dropped to around 20C, I done some short <1km ride to the store, same grind after first try, second try I started it. Like the very short rides don't charge the battery up, but as I know it shouldn't be like that with good battery and mine is. Then I have ridden to the next store which is like hundred meter apart, turned off, and started without any problems and went home. Not big problems but annoying for me.

Not much time for testing, get some milisecond grind sound, engine cold, not the first start by I was ridding maybe 1km to my parents, then shut off, start again, milisecond grind but starts fine. Few more starts, no problem. If the hot start problem persists this is the next: 1. New starter solenoid 2. New holder with brushes 3. MAYBE check the starter clutch, if fine check torque on 3 bolts. 4. Check battery and starter cables for corosion. I can clean them but I doubt I can find the new one... 5. Buy new pink plug that is located near starter solenoid. Famous for melting, mine has slight melt but doubt thats was/is the culprit. If it stays like this, Im fine with it. Will report.

Sorted. Directly turning the shaft below that rubber with 10mm lowered the pedal. Then I just secured 2 screws.

Only thing coming to my mind is to try to use 10mm wrench and turn the shaft/screw directly without touching upper nut.

I was setting my rear brake pedal yesterday cuz it was too low. I managed to raise it how I like it but now rear brake is way agressive and locks the rear pretty easy. Before I could stomp on the pedal and it wouldn't. Now I can't set the pedal back. Im turning the upper bolt counterclockwise and its going up. If Im going clockwise, it just unscrew and goint to to lower nut. Even the whole screw went out of mounting point... - This is how I found the locknuts to be: - As I know it should be like this: - Now procedure should be simple: I loosen the lower nut, and then turning the upper one. Counterclockwise I raising the pedal, clockwise I lowering it. Problem is that at some point, upper nut is not turning the screw but it just going down the screw when finally meets lower nut (first picture). This is my current position: - The position is ok, but I would like just a bit more down so the brake is less sensitive. But don't know how to do it when upper nut is doing nothing at this point. Any tips? Its not like that I can't predict when it will lock up, and still I need to apply decent force but I would like it a bit lower. Any reason why I can't?

Ok I done the shimming on my previous bike.

Also I put my bike on the centerstand and check the chain movement. It slightly bounce when rolling, but I had same thing on my Kawasaki EX500. Don't know if thats normal. Sprockets are almost new, stock size.

Yeah at least I learned something new to do and if I need to do it again, it will be faster and easier to do. I will ride and see. If the problem persists, I will go with new brushes, then solenoid. I would change the cables too over time, but can't find new battery/starter cables for this bike.

Thanks. Im more annoyed that I need to slip a clutch on taking off/slow maneuvers. For example Yamaha TDM900 has the same problem.

When Im ridding it slow in 1st and 2nd gear at 3.000rpm, the bike is like lurching forward and backward. When Im above 3k as it should be, no problem. Is that normal for this model or I have chain/sprockets problem? I guess I don't lug the motor in the 1st gear. Or anything else. I feel the ridding it from the stops jerky untill I reach 3k+ rpm range. Not a big deal but a bit annoing. Like I feel something is going on in the rear, but when I get to the rpms its fine. Last time when I checked chain slack, it was good. Can it be the chain, carb sync? Im feeling like it is something in the chain. Will check for the kinked links.