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May '93: Cherry blossoms at Beacon Hill park made a good backdrop for this shot of the new-to me '91 VFR750.

The RC46 crank case & major assemblies are taken directly from the RC45 which in final race trim was putting out 195rwhp @ 14K/rpm. The only major parts difference was the pistons & Ti conrods & the crank+cams being timed differently. The big bang RC45 crank is timed at 0 degrees, such that it acts like a pair of V-twins joined together. And the 2mm shorter stroke allowed for the higher race RPM. That setup creates huge loads, the VFR's 180 degree crank is much kinder to the cases & bearings. Due to the total lack of RC45 crank case spares, race teams use 5th gen crank cases with the swingarm pivot ground off. They then bolt straight in to RC45 frame and all RC45 innards just drop in.

Rode a few bikes as a youngster, but didn't really start riding until '98. Oldest pic I have of me & the '87 ZX600 is from '05. First VFR was '09.

I can't quite match the vintage, but here we are in 1982, me and my mighty CB125T; two tiny pistons frantically going nowhere! 12000rpm redline! The T did not stand for torque however. This was my first motorcycle and started my love afair with Honda.

Just for a laugh!..... 1972 - Yikes, 52 years ago!! My beloved Honda SL100, absolutely had a hoot with this bike. Worked three paper delivery rounds per week to save up for it. I'd really give this bike a work out and never had a fault with it. That bike won me over forever with Honda's build quality, reliability and durability. My buddies little Honda Mini Trail was also bulletproof. ATGATT...only partially back then. Cheers

OK Lorne. I didn't go back far enough (the end of my digital photos is ~ a little over 20 yrs ago). However, here's an action photo of me about to drag my knee, wearing, obviously, ATGATT. I challenge all here at VFRD to name vehicle brand as well as engine. Cheers!

...I bought this lightly used 2 year old VFR750, and haven't been without a Honda since then; several VFRs and a handful of VTR1000F. I'd bought the bike late that afternoon, and being early March it was a dark, damp first ride to visit my folks. I'd love to have it back, and in that condition.

Never been an issue with all 4 VFR800's I've owned with after market exhausts fitted, 1200 shouldn't be any different. O2 sensors means ECU runs in closed loop, so air to fuel ratio is continuously optimized. Think you're worrying about nothing. I'd probably go back to the OEM type airfilter if it was mine! Good Luck with the bike, take it for a good test ride. Check it's maintenance history. Coolant change, brake and clutch fluid replacement - should have had a few of those! Oil and filter, etc. P.s. I'm sure there was a rear wheel drive unit issue recall for the early 1200's. Make sure this has been done.

I'm kind of flabbergasted to hear multiple stories about the transmission issues here. Im sure theese are Na bikes yes? I have absolutely abused my bike for 30k km with 100% power increase in mind just making Shure of proper shifts before wot. Absolutely no hickups before and now that I'm building a map slowly I have transmission parts in my sump. Can't wait to see this with my own eyes!

That's one good thing, the Kill Switch when activated does inhibit Cranking. "When kill switch is in the Off position the engine does not crank" - Sorry to be pedantic assume you Did have Ignition to ON when checking this? - Very Important for diagnosis, Please Check exactly this - Ignition ON, Kill Switch OFF, Press Starter Switch - Does the engine Crank ? Absolutely completely wrong that either Kill OR Ignition Switch doesn't stop the engine. HISS cannot cause the condition you have. Crazy to think a dealership would say such a thing! Questions.. - With the Engine Running. Then turn Off only the Ignition Switch (assume the engine continues to run). Do the Headlights go Off and the Instrument Panel go blank? - And with engine running, Sidestand Down, Clutch In shift to in Gear. Does the Engine immediately Stop as it should? - Can you identify any strange non OEM looking wiring anywhere on the bike, you'll need to remove a lot of plastic to check this? As possibly only a part of the fault. I'd be checking to see if the Bank Angle Sensor has been bypassed. Meaning its unplugged and the Red/Yellow wire is jumpered to the Green wire. Or the Red/Yellow wire simply Grounded. I think the bottom line here (at this stage!) is that the ESR is possibly staying energised when it obviously shouldn't. Hopefully!! a few voltage checks might find out Why.

Hi Grum Thank you for the reply Private sale, so no dealership. When kill switch is in the Off position the engine does not crank. It seems I need to start with Fuse C and the Engine Stop Relay. I will give feedback once I had the time to check this. Apparently the dealership that serviced the bike told the previous owner there is nothing wrong and that it is part off the HISS system. Yet another reason I don't trust dealerships anymore.

Wow very strange. Strong suspicion of modified wiring or possible wiring short 12v to 12v. Never heard of this one before. Has this anomaly been there since you picked it up 3 weeks ago or only just happened? This could potentially be a warranty issue if purchased from a dealership. You have a strong case here, you have an incorrect and potentially dangerous situation. Kill Switch has two functions when in the Kill position. 1. Engine Stop Relay coil 12v is removed Black wire = Dead Engine. 2. Removes 12v Starter Relay coil voltage on the Yellow/Red wire = Starter will not Crank over the engine. Question - Can you crank the Engine with the Kill Switch NOT in the RUN position, it shouldn't crank? Ignition Switch to Off Kills power to sub Fuses C, E and F refer the attached drawing ( 2005 model should be similar to yours). Loss of power to fuse C being the 12v power to the Kill Switch and the Bank Angle Sensor also knocks out the Engine Stop Relay to kill the Engine. Engine Stop Relay is not being controlled properly by the sound of things. Have you got the Service Manual? You can download it from this forum. Do you have a multimeter? If Yes then... Suggest you follow the Kill Switch power path...refer attached wiring diagram. 1. Measure Voltage at the Engine Stop Relay on the Black wire there should ONLY be 12v on this wire when Kill Switch is in RUN position with Ignition to On. Activate the Kill switch a few times while monitoring the voltage. It might be easier to monitor this voltage at the 18P Blue connector located just forward above the L/H radiator, remove the left side cowl. What do you measure every time you operate the Kill Switch?

They are the Delkevic "X-oval" cans. I wanted something a little different than their round cans. They weren't listed as an application for the 6th Gen VFR on Delkevic's site, but most of their mufflers have the same inlet dimensions so I was going to mix/match parts. I then found the X-oval set as a VFR application on their eBay store. IMHO they do look a little better than the short round cans on the 6th Gen. They sound fantastic.

That is good work; I have done the same on my ST1300 which shares similar components. I hope your brake now behaves itself. I found the rebleeding process to be tedious specifically flushing air from the SMC. In the end I enlisted a helper (my wife) and between us we pressed the brake lever and held it, pressed the SMC in and held it, and released at the PCV. Then released and pressed the brake in and held, which pushes the SMC back to full and repeated the process. Ended up with a great lever feel which I could not get with conventional bleeding.

Looks like rapid unplanned disassembly to me.

To fix my lack of rear wheel a little research shows the disc mount for the 400 & 800 are common. So I have a stock 800 axle off with a local engineering firm to reduce its length & add a new threaded section to allow me to fit my refurbed custom cush drive & bought a stock wheel to use until my carbon one is repaired. Pics when I get it back.

Where did you get alloy radiator?

I have the 7th Gen (1200). When I got it, and travelling in traffic, it seemed like the fans were on all the time. However, swapped out the radiator with alloy one, and this seemed to reduce overall temp and definitely the fan activity. The oem radiator was a joke...

Man that RWB paint scheme is the bomb. Nice job on the brackets. When I have my VTEC out on the road I usually just use one pannier. I'd considered getting some Delkevic cans for it so thanks for the info on clearance with the pannier mount!

I have a thread on removing the rust and re-coating the tank Fuel Tank Restoration I had to do it to my 5th gen

i agree the amount of rust in that tank is concerning. If that gets past the filter you're gonna have all kinds of FI issues. Not to mention the sealing surface for the sender O ring doesn't look very smooth. A couple different ways to approach that rust: electrolysis, and Evaporust/vinegar. I did my old Ninja tank with Evaporust, and a handful of drywall screws.

Ok Lorne, you got me sucked into this topic. May 2006, my riding buddy Markus chatting it up as usual with another two-wheel enthusiast at about 4000 ft near Asheville on the BRP. 6th gens, my red and his silver. I've always really liked this photo.

I had the same problem and it also happened to 2 other nuts on the fuel pump housing. I got a professional welder to fix it. he did a great job for €50. He welded new bolt heads in, its been fine since with a new gasket & o-ring used on install. Its not something you want leaking.

Beautiful memories. There's something about how bikes can link us back to memories of places we've been and trips taken. Ten years ago I was stranded on the dock at Cherbourg, France, because the ferry I was catching home to Ireland (an 18 hour overnighter) had a radar problem. Eventually we were allowed to board but I had to leave my VFR quayside. They were basically only allowing us on to give us all a place to sleep for the night. They attempted to empty us out the following morning with promises of other ferries but a few of us hung on and explained that we were entitled to do so under EU law. There was no guarantee that an "alternative sailing" would actually take us and once you've left the boat you're on your own. Eventually made friends with many of the staff, got a tour of the ship, saw the bridge, got the VFR onboard and got home a day late. The poor French lad I'd helped out through this, on a nice Kawasaki ER6, had a day robbed from his tour of Ireland because of it but I managed to get him a cabin so he was comfy (until he got to Ireland where it pissed rain..poor guy). Photo below of the VFR fully-loaded dockside. The two Beemer guys disappeared the morning the ferry was emptied, think they chanced the "alternative sailings" thing. Actually the Larry David lookalike there was riding a Honda Silverwing maxiscoot! One more edit - I'm sitting here now with my baby daughter asleep in my arms and am married to the woman who I was traveling back and forth to France for. We've our own little home, a lovely little dog, and a shed where I can work on/admire my two VFRs. If you'd told me that was gonna happen 10 years ago when that picture was taken I'd have been astounded. Life moves fast.

I would tap that stud and get a nut on it. Looks like the tank needs to be cleaned also lots of rust. Good luck you can do it!

If you are going to try that route, be sure to bend that damaged part of the bracket back down so it doesn't interfere with the fuel sender plate and prevent it from compressing the new o-ring as much as possible. Probably bend it down a little farther than it's original position, but still allow the flange to install. Fill the tank with a good amount of fuel and set it on some newspaper over night somewhere that possible fumes would be ok. You'll know if it leaks or not. And don't try and use any sealant, it won't help.

Good afternoon to all Viffer fanatics. I bought a 2002 VTech about three weeks ago and the bike is a gem. Few small things I will fix on her, some already done. My biggest headscratcher however is my kill switch / Ignition Switch Bike will not start with either one of the two off - As it should Engine will not stop when I hit the kill switch - Not normal Engine will not stop when switched off at the ignition - Not normal Engine stops when I hit the kill switch AND turn the ignition off. As the bike is still in almost showroom condition I cannot think that anybody messed with the wiring (nothing is impossible) but I will go in and take a look when time affords it. Can anyone give me a indication of how the cabling should run?

Bummer just had my wheel ultrasound tested & it does not look good. Tester recommended not to use it. ☹️

Was on a big group ride on some awesome roads, and suddenly there was no 3rd on a downshift. The bike did fine for the rest of the ride other than having to go from 2nd to 4th. Dodged a bullet.