Leaderboard

There is a spring behind the piston to ensure it stays attached to the end of the rod. When you remove the slave you should put a clamp on it to stop the soft spring pushing the piston out. As suggested you can use a C-clamp to SLOWLY move it back in, remember you are forcing fluid back through the M/C bleed hole. If you want it to move faster, then crack the bleed nipple & after adding a hose & fluid catcher, then you can push it back with your fingers. Remember to top up the M/C with fresh fluid. When reinstalling, get everything ready, remove clamp & pop slave into place, keep pressure on it with one hand. With the other hand pop bolts into place finger tight. You can let the pressure off now 👍 Hope that helps.

Hi guys. Hope all is well with everyone. Despite covid19, I've been able to keep me motorcycles roadworthy with fairly regular road time. I think it would be cool to get back together for a 2021 NorCal reunion. Say maybe a warm up ride on the Pacific Coast Highway, followed by a longer ride (weather/fire conditions permitting) in September. Suggest we start with a ride up the coast and down CA 128. Let’s meet at Starbucks, 260 Northgate Drive, San Rafael 94903 Saturday, August 28, 2021 (hope it's still there). We'll ride over to Pt. Reyes Station and up the Pacific Coast Hwy. Lunch in Elk, and back down CA128 to Cloverdale. We top off the ride at the world famous Hamburger Ranch; those up for more fun can continue on CA128 to Calistoga and Winters. Looking forward to good weather, good roads, and the camaraderie of good people. Kickstands up at 8:00 AM. If we hit the road early, maybe we can avoid some traffic on Hwy 1 and perhaps stretch the ride out on the back end. Hope you can make it. Jeff J. Remembering Ed Nelson https://goo.gl/maps/qRiZaSP6buL2

I agree... short time you're draining the whole engine... long time you're draining the pan... you get more of the old oil out with just draining the pan because it takes time for the oil to migrate under the force of gravity out of the whole engine and into the pan...

After 16 hours of electrolysis, I can see the bottom of the tank! I couldn’t resist dumping and taking a look. I remixed my solution and dumped in a dress 5 gallons. Added another anode to increase surface area. Science is fun! Also got the carbs off and will start that cleaning. Time to fire up the ultrasonic.

DO NOT USE KREEM!!!!!! That stuff is junk most of the time. Better option is the POR-15 kit. Otherwise, see my earlier post. Congrats on having it fire over. I've you've been in one carb you've been through them all. Just make sure all the passages and jets are clear and there isn't leftover residue on the needle and stuff. Don't forget to clean the choke assembly. Can always bench test to make sure there aren't any leaks. Just don't break the carbs out individually. Keep them together.

Picked up a Kreem liner kit for the tank today. Thought I’d help out and run some electrolysis for a bit first. This is what it looked like seconds after I turned on the power supply.

Jeff! Hope all is well, sounds like it is. I will be on the east coast the weekend of the 28th, damn. Am definitely up for the follow-up ride.

It looks like I missed out; but I’m totally committed for the next batch for my 6th gen! I messaged MrSqiggle a few weeks ago about buying the uninstalled set he has for sale on these forums (even though shipping from Oz would likely be expensive) but it seems he hasn’t logged in for over a month. 😩

All fixed! I had to press the slave cylinder piston in and that fixed it. I got the cover on and then put the slave cylinder back on. I used a C-clamp to push the piston back. Then I put cover on, cylinder, and then speed thing. Thanks for all the help!

progress update: decided to order myself a set of custom yokes instead of messing about trying to make things fit. They took 10 weeks to arrive, but they were worth the wait. Very impressed. The fit of the ignition barrel is absolutely perfect, it even includes the fittings for the transponder ring that sits on top of it. very happy Stuck it in the freezer overnight, and fitted the bottom bearing: Trial fit up: fitted to the bike: I need to do some more work on that airscoop, but that can happen later.

To prevent the piston from doing that, when removing the slave cylinder I use a couple of large zip ties around it to hold the piston in place.

Unless I'm mistaken, but new exhaust must have the db-killer tacked in. So you'd need to whip out the Dremel.... For better perfomance you best shed some weight (off to the gymn pal) and for more noise, ride without earplugs.

Ok here we go...... - Better fuel economy. The 8gen has slightly smaller tank capacity and a nicer more streamlined shape the greater fuel economy far exceeds any loss of fuel quantity. - More improvements on vtec transition. - New cam profiles, engine compression slightly increased to 11.8 : 1. - Lighter weight (by almost 30lbs) and has a more nimble feel to handling and steering, gives you more confidence in the twisty stuff. - A nicer slimmer look due to the side radiators being moved to the front. - Rider seat has adjustable hi and low position. - Greater storage room under the pillion seat especially with the rear cowl in use. - Mirrors are better and are far less prone to being elbowed out of position by some peanut walking by your bike too closely. - Stronger more ridged new SS Swingarm. - Simple adjustment knob for rear suspension preload. Brakes. - Far better brakes with larger diameter 310mm front rotors. - Non linked with ABS, (Australian 6gens were never the ABS version) - Front brakes are dual radial mounted 4 piston fixed calipers. Instrumentation. - Whilst not essential but nice to have, gear position indication. - Fuel usage instantaneous, average etc. readout. - Traction control. - 5 stage heated grips. - Auto cancelling turn indicators...ok once you get used to them! - Turn Indicator and Horn switches have swapped positions! Will drive you crazy initially BUT once you get used to it it's great, your thumb is right next to the indicator switch where it should be. Electrics. - All the electrical issues that plagued the 5th and 6gens appear to have been resolved. - Stator is forced oil cooled. Have not heard of a single 8gen stator failure yet! - R/R is a greatly improved, efficient microprocessor controlled mosfet regulator. - Reduced electrical loads due to the LED headlights. - Gone is the radiator cooling fan thermatic switch now control by the ECM engine temp inputs. - Gone is the speed pickup that was coupled to the drive sprocket mounting bolt head. Rear ABS sensor is the speed sensor. - Gone is the diaphragm type fuel pressure regulator that had caused issues with 5 and 6gen. - Even the ignition switch and starter switch have been simplified to simple single pole switches, improving reliability. - Easier access to all fuses being under the rider seat. OEM Panniers. - Really nice, no ugly added brackets required, just discrete integrated mounting points for panniers. Very simple and fast pannier install and removal. Overall superb build quality, reliability, durability and bloody great fun! You also have the option of fitting a genuine Honda Quick Shifter for the 8gen. Cons. These are my only small gripes I have that may not be issues for other owners, but for me the 8gen is a fantastic all round great looking and sounding road bike. Wherever I take the VFR I'm always getting comments from people of what a nice looking bike it is.....I always agree! - Suspension a bit harsh no matter what the setting. - OEM exhaust is a bit ugly ...easily fixed! - Oh, yeah...Beware the Fuel Tank breather hose!!! - Oil filter is a little more awkward to get at due to it being behind the front cooling fan. - Minor issue in rear wheel removal, you now have to swing the exhaust aside, its a piece of cake, just a simple extra step you didn't have to do with a 6gen. Have I forgotten anything? "My Dream VFR". Taken this morning.