If you want a straight up step by step.... check this.............Steps:
- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.
- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.
These are R/R quick checks---
--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.)
- Check stator
- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off)
- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart)
- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart.
- Repeat hot.
This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.)
http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
So I am kind of a starter when comes to this but here are my findings.
I placed a brand new R/R in the system yesterday, charged battery overnight and today my DV Voltage reading at bike on idle, low
Beams was about 13.2V. When I rev to 5K it goes slightly down to about 12.9V.
I tried the stator test on the connector pictures below and got around 0.8 ohms on all tests.
Thoughts,? Dead stator? My connector on old R/R that went to yellow wires was melted inside...
Here is what my old one looked like end of last year...