bigmac9137

All fixed! I had to press the slave cylinder piston in and that fixed it. I got the cover on and then put the slave cylinder back on. I used a C-clamp to push the piston back. Then I put cover on, cylinder, and then speed thing. Thanks for all the help!

Also is all the way back flush with the slave cylinder case? Or farther?

Sorry, newbie here. I’m pushing back the entire ring inside the slave cylinder, not just the thing inside the slot where the rod goes?

I have the slave cylinder off. I am trying to get it back on with the rod, but I am still coming up just short. so how do I press the piston in farther to create more room? I’m thinking like a brake caliper and c-clamp?

Vfr78, would you say best bet is for me to take the slave cylinder off of the cover now?

No brake fluid was added but while I had it apart I did gage the clutch at one point a d switch gears. I have made sure the rod is all the way in the cover slot. I am not sure what the slave cylinder piston is and how to make sure it is all the way pushed in. is it normal that at this point I can’t pull me clutch in, it’s tight. Is that because the slave cylinder isn’t currently connected to the lever?

Hard part is I can’t get it close enough for all of the screws to reach. It’s a solid 1/2” away from being flush, that can’t be right. Is there any chance something slipped out of position on far side within the clutch?

So I changed sprockets and chain and now I am trying to put the front sprocket cover on, that has the slave cylinder attached to it. I am having an issue getting the clutch rod all the way in. It goes in but comes about 1/4-1/2” short of going the whole way and therefore can’t get the cover flush. It feels like it is hitting a wall on the other side. Any ideas? Thanks!

Hmm, I took the top screws off the left handlebar resevoir but there was just a white thing still on top. Does that pop off or something? I'm feeling especially dumb

Is there any way to add clutch fluid without flushing the system? More basic, where is the dang clutch fluid reservoir?

I tested battery when problem first occurred at end of fall, and it was fine, gonna do it again today! R/R is not OEM but a aftermarket replacement. 32,000 miles on bike. Is best bet, if battery checks out, pick apart and look at stator to see if it's burnt out?

If you want a straight up step by step.... check this.............Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.) - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart. - Repeat hot. This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.) http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf So I am kind of a starter when comes to this but here are my findings. I placed a brand new R/R in the system yesterday, charged battery overnight and today my DV Voltage reading at bike on idle, low Beams was about 13.2V. When I rev to 5K it goes slightly down to about 12.9V. I tried the stator test on the connector pictures below and got around 0.8 ohms on all tests. Thoughts,? Dead stator? My connector on old R/R that went to yellow wires was melted inside... Here is what my old one looked like end of last year...

Yea I have gone through those threads and it's hard to find someone just giving numbers and what it should be. I checked my battery before the winter when it started havin problems and it tested good. Charging it tonight, put a new R/R on it today, and will test tomorrow. Just hoping it doesn't end up Being stator! My end on last R/R melted inside the plug, end adaptor thing!

Thanks Yoshi, I knew I had a problem, just wanted to get a true sense of where it should be. I am changing my R/R Saturday, and then will check again!

If I place ends of volt meter on battery terminals of my 98 vfr800, what Voltage should I read at idle and 5k RPMs? Last I checked mine it was: Idle: 12.09V 5K: 12.19V

Is there a certain year GSXR or R1 R/R I should be looking for? Model? They have same wiring harnesses, or do I need to buy them separately?

Desperate times cause for desperate acts

So my R/R is dead, surprise!!, and that doesn't bode well with someone who loves to ride and is BROKE! I know it's a long shot but looking for someone who wants to get rid of a used R/R that works for either free....(I know I'm a douche), or for dirt cheap. Doesn't hurt to ask. I give virtual BJs...

So I did a visual wire check and bolt test on my battery and here are my results: At idle, with hi beams on, I am getting 12.09V at battery. When I increase to 5000 RPMs it only goes up to 12.19V. Does not seem like enough to charge battery....? Also here is a picture of the wiring harness with 3 yellow wires coming off the regulator: So it's clearly melted... Can I just splice a new adapter on? Or do I need a new regulator.....again..?

So battery was tested, and it's just fine. Gotta test for either RR or Stator...

I'm here! I made my way, through the billion posts, managing to read all of them and not launching over them. BTW, I wish I ramped a car, this battery and RR crap isn't nearly as awesome. I am going to charge my battery tonight, and take it somewhere. To get it checked, but it held the last charge for 2 weeks of riding. I am stealing/borrowing a mult meter from work and gonna try and get these tests of the stator and RR run this week, soon! Thanks for the link to the stator test, just what I needed. Wouldn't it be easy if I just went straight from stator to battery? I heard that works super well.... :P

3 weeks ago I rushed into work, and left my bike on the "on" position, effectively draining my battery when I wanted to go home (sometimes I have more common sense than a 14 yr old girl...not this time). Couldnt pop start it, so i charged battery with trickle charger for 15 minutes, then jumped it with a car. (Car was not turned on, just key to on switch). It worked, I charged my battery the next 2 days and we were back. After about 2 weeks of riding fine, I came out of the bank and the bike started slower, went to another store, came out, it wouldnt start at all, dead battery. I jump started with a car again, but it only went 1 mile, then died. So I parked it, took battery, charged it for 3 hours, then put it back in and it started and I got it home. So 4 possibilities, battery, stator, wiring/connections or R/R. Not Battery, it was holding the charges, just not getting charged while riding. R/R I changed 10,000 miles ago (at 25,000), could it of went again? Stator, Ive never touched this thing, any way to check? Connections, maybe one melted. SO basically could jumping it with a car blow up the stator or R/R? How do I use a volt meter to check it, if need be? any masterminds know what it is, so i can just buy a new one?!