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zx9vfr800

Regulator help

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So I have tried to search through all of this place and there seems to be some conflict on the r/r issues. I have a Yellow 2000 VFR and the charging system went sideways on my first real ride and I have just let the poor girl just sit in my shop for way too long and need to get her back on the road. So can I not just buy a new R/R from Honda? Or will it go right away? I really want to bolt the part on and not do a lot of modifications to make it work right. This my 2nd 2000 and the first one I put about 40,000 miles on and never had a problem with the charging system but this one went out right after I got it and it bummed me out and then the tow company bent my high rise handlebars and refused to replace them. So any of you kind people can point me in the right direction on what to buy to make it work the best I would greatly appreciate any help you can give... I thought there was a sticky thread about this but could not find it.    

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Try PM'ing Mr. mello dude - he's got R/R issues dialed in, including a slick mounting plate for an upgraded R/R that's better than what came new from Honda.  Not sure if it's used on a 5th gen - but no doubt he can steer you in the right direction. 

 

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/profile/8220-mello-dude/

 

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www.roadstercycle.com get the SH847 kit

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51 minutes ago, thtanner said:

www.roadstercycle.com get the SH847 kit

I second that have one on my 99 for 3 years now without problems. Make sure you check your stator as that is what usually takes out the R/R.

 

I also have the Eastern Beaver headlight relay/accessory fuse block kit. Takes a huge load off the wimpy stock wiring.

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Don't let all of the reading about VFR electrical issues get you down. I watched two stator replacements done in a parking lot last summer at SUMSUM. They each took less than two hours. Read the electrical forum here and jump in. I tried searching for 'the drill' but can't find it. It may have gone missing in the latest rebuild? Here is the text that I copied to my desktop when I needed it. Good luck.

 

 

Sorry for your electrical troubles. Well, looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.”

Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that!  

Then---Go through this starting point quick list.  You will need a multimeter too.

Steps:

- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

These are R/R quick checks---

--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.)

Check stator

- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.  (Engine off)

- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity.  --   3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart)

- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more.  Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart.

Repeat hot if you dont find anything wrong. Sometimes the stator will be find cold and be a problem hot. 

This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.)

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

 

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I'm kinda getting that the OP wants to do the bare bones minimum to try an attempt for a fix. Without knowing the miles on the bike, sounding somewhat in the lower range, ... I think that would be the FH020aa super kit from roadstercycle.  (you know, I think Jack owes me a commision by now... 😎) ----

(Agree the SH847 is the latest tech, but would need more fitment finagling.) 

Many of us 5th genners have experienced the OEM R/R death with the stator ok at lower miles ~25k ish....or less. (me too) Chances are that is the situation... 

Of course I'm forgetting the obvious, he needs to pull the stator connector apart for a look. And the good battery stuff. Oh yeah, the drill..... (never heard of it. 😉)

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Well, I talked to Jack today and will be buying the mosfet set up... Does anyone know if you have to the mounting bracket to make it fit? Or you can you make it fit without the bracket?  I honestly can't remember the mileage I think it around 20k. I have been putting this off for way too long due to the fact I have been just been too poor to fix her 😢

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I had to make an adaptor plate to mount my 847. It took a hour or so to sort it out including the fan. Yeah I mounted a fan as most of my failures have been on a hot day after several hours of riding.

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16 hours ago, mello dude said:

I'm kinda getting that the OP wants to do the bare bones minimum to try an attempt for a fix. Without knowing the miles on the bike, sounding somewhat in the lower range, ... I think that would be the FH020aa super kit from roadstercycle.  (you know, I think Jack owes me a commision by now... 😎) ----

(Agree the SH847 is the latest tech, but would need more fitment finagling.) 

Many of us 5th genners have experienced the OEM R/R death with the stator ok at lower miles ~25k ish....or less. (me too) Chances are that is the situation... 

Of course I'm forgetting the obvious, he needs to pull the stator connector apart for a look. And the good battery stuff. Oh yeah, the drill..... (never heard of it. 😉)

 

Used FH020AA from FZ09 are on eBay for the guys wanting to be "super cheap". I've gotten them as cheap as $25

Eastern beaver connectors. Wire & Fuse off Amazon/etc.= Sub $60 upgrade

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23 hours ago, zx9vfr800 said:

Well, I talked to Jack today and will be buying the mosfet set up... Does anyone know if you have to the mounting bracket to make it fit? Or you can you make it fit without the bracket?  I honestly can't remember the mileage I think it around 20k. I have been putting this off for way too long due to the fact I have been just been too poor to fix her 😢

No bracket required... You will need to drill 2 one quarter inch hole in the stock mount. 

mountplatemod1-M.jpg

20170506_234252-M.jpg

 

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Thanks for all that help guys. Got the new R/R installed today and it is charging at about 14v at idle. Now just have to put it back together and then swap out my handlebars back to the stock one due to the tow truck guy bending the hell out of mine... Then a new water pump soon. 

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I have to say I am really confused why the stock R/R has 5 wires going to the power side of it and the new one only has 2... 

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3 hours ago, zx9vfr800 said:

I have to say I am really confused why the stock R/R has 5 wires going to the power side of it and the new one only has 2... 

The original has a double up of the Red (positive output wire) and Greens (negative ground wires) probably to maximise the output power without going to heavier gauge wire, it would also greatly lessen the chances of burnt out high resistance joints by having the Positive and Negative power going through two spade type connection each at the main plug.

 

As to the black wire, previous ohmic checks I've done on the R/R showed this wire appeared to have no connection to any other wire, as to its purpose I don't know, other than when it was used it was wired to the ignition switched main positive.

So yes, the only real requirement out of the R/R is two wires, Pos and Neg.

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Inside the harness, the double wires are crimped onto single wires of the same gauge. Why? I have no idea. 

12E4F410-E566-433D-ABC1-92D2CDD28CB2.jpeg

3B4C2925-A07A-441C-8404-CCE6AAB9E537.jpeg

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