Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted August 29, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted August 29, 2016 59 minutes ago, vulgar1 said: I laid it all out for her this morning. I softened her up with a foot massage and some sex, and then after breakfast I started. "I need to do some maintenance on the motorcycle". Then I explained all the reasons it was necessary and she just said "okay, I guess if we need to do it then do it". Freaking awesome! I already completed the work order form. Can't wait! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Sometimes a little softening up goes a long way! Me, I just keep a "play account" tied to my PayPal account and put money in here and there. I get away with a lot more that way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Slush fund, I like it. Play the safety card guys and girls. It is important that I upgrade to abs or ohlins or brembo, Arai, tires, or whatever for...... You got it, Safety! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Fair enough :)Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 30, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted August 30, 2016 Rogue what size springs did you go with on the front forks ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue_Biker Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 Switchblade, below is what DMr installed: Rear Shock 2.25" ID, 7" Long, 1100lbs/in Front Fork 0.90kg/mm springs I specified Advanced/fast sport rider with occasional touring and daily commuting. 185 lbs. in full gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogue_Biker Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 On Sunday, August 28, 2016 at 4:37 PM, vulgar1 said: I laid it all out for her this morning. I softened her up with a foot massage and some sex, and then after breakfast I started. "I need to do some maintenance on the motorcycle". Then I explained all the reasons it was necessary and she just said "okay, I guess if we need to do it then do it". Freaking awesome! I already completed the work order form. Can't wait! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Some wives are reasonable and that's why you married them. LOL! Keep in mind one thing, when I ordered mine I specified "fast sport rider" and DMr sent me a rear shock that raised the rear about an inch, maybe 1.5". So it was a bit awkward at first stopping at a light but I quickly got used to being on the balls of my feet now. The 6th gen has a wide midsection and I'm only 5'8" with a 30" inseam. But the bike sure steers quick! I also got to ride my bike a bit more in the canyons and mountains, and now have about 400 miles on the new suspension. I dialed down the rebound damping at both ends...about one rotation from Soft in the rear (about halfway between hard and soft), and 2 rotations from Soft up front on the forks. Haven't touched the spring preload and don't expect to at this point. The suspension is more compliant now and there is about an inch of sag, but barely. But man! I hit some very big bumps on this sport ride, the kind that would kick me off the seat on the OEM suspension. On the DMr, the bike just soaked it all up! I also rode aggressively trying to chase down Duc2V4 and another 6th Gen rider and that extra ground clearance from the raised rear was VERY nice to have. I had to hit the brakes hard on a few decreasing radius corners going downhill and having minimal brake dive helped.....A LOT. Made the bike just easier to throw around than before. When I hit the apex of a corner I can do it much quicker, and lean it just where I want it to and the bike settles into that corner right away. It's very nice to be able to do that and know the bike will consistently remain where I expect it to be. I think I reached my limit way before the bike's suspension did. I really do feel like I'm riding a new, sportbike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jswisc Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Did the Dmr front and rear 2 years ago. I bought his fork kit and put it in myself. Great step by step complete with preload settings based on my weight and type of riding. I have a CBR1k with Ohlins and a fully setup 800 Ducati that I race. Both bikes have great suspensions, but my VFR feels just as good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Finished installing the rear shock tonight. What a pain in the butt! I don't exactly know what I finally did right. I think it was lowering and raising the swing arm several times but I finally got it lined up. Trying to do the forks tomorrow or the day after. I hear they are easier then the rear shock. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Awesome. Stripped the bolt on the right leg trying to get it out. Yay. Guess this is on hold for a while. Tried cracking it loose while forks where on the bike to keep it all from moving. Left side went perfect. Right didn't budge. Time to order a new bolt and wait for the email from Jamie. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVFR Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Yep Jamie did the front and he talked to Penske for the shock I needed/ wanted, I figure why hold back now. Rear shock was a breeze, with the rear wheel off with a jack on the swing arm, also took the lower tripe link off. gave it a good cleaning and fresh grease. Bingo, the front wasn't so bad either, while Jamie had the forks this gave me time to clean it all up underneath. Now with 2000 miles behind me with this set up. it's wonder why folks ride the vfr the way it is stock. Wow. Talk about rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 I was hoping to take her out this weekend for a nice long test ride. Going to be on hold. Trying to source another bolt in town tomorrow and see what Jamie says about drilling the bolt out. I can order it for $3 but it's $9.50 to ship and it will take a week I'm sure. Not interested in that. Want this done asap. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 16, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2016 It is OK to drill off the bolt head, but you'll still have to fight the rest of the bolt to get it out of the damper assembly, but at least that will be out on a work bench, not buried in the fork. You can push the bottom of the compression valve into the cartridge a little to expose the circlip and then remove that, and the compression valve will slide out of the tube. You can clamp the compression valve body in a vice and apply some heat to free up the Loctite that is holding the bolt in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 That makes sense. I would assume there will be enough bolt left to get vise grips on it if I drill the head off? This is the first time I've tried to remove the forks. I don't know what it all looks like inside.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted September 16, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2016 Oddly, when I had to drill out the bolt on my friends 95 VFR750, once the head was off, the remaining part of the bolt backed out using my fingers! The only logical explanation is the the bolt was frozen against the crush washer and fork leg. Impact drivers will offer the best results but also having good quality tools is a start. If the hex wrench/bit feels loose at all, I would anticipate a stripped bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted September 16, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2016 Those bolts are "half height" socket caps, which means that there isn't the usual amount of bolt material to grip the tool. That, and the bolts' location underneath the forks makes them especially susceptible to head stripping when you're awkwardly trying to loosen them with the forks mounted on the bike. There's no reason to do that, by the way. If you're taking the forks off anyway it is much easier to loosen those bolts with the fork upside down in a vise. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 My thinking was with the forks still in the triple I could just break them free easier then when they were off. Clearly this didn't work out as intended. The good news is that a local dealer had the bolt so I can drill it and continue along. I'm sure hoping it goes back in easier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 I have used a next-size-up torx bit, hammered it in, and the star shaped profile has bitten in enough to be able to ratchet the fugger out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted September 17, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted September 17, 2016 11 hours ago, vulgar1 said: My thinking was with the forks still in the triple I could just break them free easier then when they were off. Clearly this didn't work out as intended. The good news is that a local dealer had the bolt so I can drill it and continue along. I'm sure hoping it goes back in easier. I see. However, the usual problem with the fork bolts is not that they require Herculean efforts to remove, but that they can spin without loosening once they do start to move. Should you be tempted to stop the spinning by compressing the forks, don't: they need to be extended in order to stop the spinning (or use an air gun). Auspanglish's Torx driver suggestion is a good one--if you can get one into the bolt head. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 I got the bolt out! Followed Jamie's instructions about drilling it out and all was well. I did the forks following the instructions and all went very smoothly....until I tried to put on the fork caps. Instructions say they should be 15-16 mm apart from the top of tube to the bottom lip of cap. Mine are 1.2". Both of them. Wtf?I have both of them sitting in my garage next to the sad looking vfr missing it's front legs and an email to Jamie. I followed the directions exactly, I swear. Bit of a bummer. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 18, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted September 18, 2016 The length of the extended fork cap/spring is determined by the length of the spacers and the position of preload adjuster. The spacers should be cut so when the fork tube is fully extended the springs are compressed 15 mm or so. If you measure down from top of extended fork to spring (call that A) and also measure bottom of washers up to underside of fork cap where it bears on the top of the tube (call that B), the difference between those (A-B) would give 0 mm preload. So A-B + 15mm should be the spacer length. Set the preload adjusters to 1/2 way before measuring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Cutting the spacer might be the route this has to go. Jamie had me measure the springs and they are about 1" too long. I am waiting see what he recommends. I don't want to cut something I shouldn't yet. I'm not sure if a spring that is too long will case an issue or not. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted September 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted September 19, 2016 Spacers are cheap, so you can cut them up all day long. RaceTech springs used to ship with nice aluminum conduit stock, but anything rigid and the right diameter will do (such as pvc pipe). New spacer material is supplied because the OEM spacers are rarely going to be the correct length for use with aftermarket springs. RaceTech desn't pre-cut the spacers, but the instructions tell you how to measure what length you need.. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted September 19, 2016 JZH is absolutely right, if you got new springs, the stock spacers are very unlikely to be the right length. Get some PVC pipe of a similar diameter to the springs/washers, cut to length with a hacksaw and you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgar1 Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 The kit was included with new spacers. It's designed to not need to be cut. Will a longer than planned spring cause any issues with the spring rate?I have the stock spacers I could use to test this out.....Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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