KDON Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Delinking went well but the HEL instructions were a bit vague on the step regarding drilling out caliper so fluid can flow to the 3rd piston. Has anyone performed this that can shed some insight? Is there a fluid tunnel that just needs to be drilled into? How deep? Most appropriate sized bit? Is it easy to FUBAR? Any insight appreciated before the non reversible modifications begin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted April 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 14, 2015 Waht caliper are you talking about? Photos could help. I delinked my 5th gen without drilling any calipers..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 He's talking about the rear caliper, drilling the Center piston bore. This way you run one line to the rear and no shirt jumper line, block off the unused port with an M10 bolt and crush washer. I'll see if I can find info, others have done this. Me, I just ran two lines. Mohawk has a how to here, oh this is for the front but it should be applicable to the rear too I believe. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72202-vfr800-10year-refresh-part-deux/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDON Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 That's it Thanks veefer!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 15, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 15, 2015 It's the same front or rear, the 3rd piston on the 6th gen is just on one caliper, as the front lever activates 5 by default, 3 in Left & 2 in right caliper IIRC. So if you search my threads you will find a nice picture & drawing, but basically, if you strip the caliper in question, you will find 3 holes where the pistons go & 2 holes where the brake banjo's go the front lever supplied one has a drilling that links the piston 1+3 together, this is inline with the bleed nipple by that banjo. Piston 2 is supplied by a seperate banjo. So look into hole 1+3 & you will see where the drilling connects them in the back, one also has the banjo hole. Now image a line like this O_o_O that is the link. In the centre piston hole you will see a banjo outlet only offset to one side to avoid the drilling between the other two holes. All you need to do is drill through the back of piston hole two to connect it to the drilling between 1 & 3. Then get an m10x1.25 flange head bolt with 15mm thread length & a copper banjo washer to seal the old banjo hole on piston two. Connect, bleed, (you may have to use both bleed nipples to get rid of all air), job done. I have a set of 5th gen ones on the shelf like this if anyones interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDON Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 Thanks Mohawk! The pics on your write up we're perfect for the project Gotta love the knowledge on this forum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gig Posted April 15, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 15, 2015 It's the same front or rear, the 3rd piston on the 6th gen is just on one caliper, as the front lever activates 5 by default, 3 in Left & 2 in right caliper IIRC. So if you search my threads you will find a nice picture & drawing, but basically, if you strip the caliper in question, you will find 3 holes where the pistons go & 2 holes where the brake banjo's go the front lever supplied one has a drilling that links the piston 1+3 together, this is inline with the bleed nipple by that banjo. Piston 2 is supplied by a seperate banjo. So look into hole 1+3 & you will see where the drilling connects them in the back, one also has the banjo hole. Now image a line like this O_o_O that is the link. In the centre piston hole you will see a banjo outlet only offset to one side to avoid the drilling between the other two holes. All you need to do is drill through the back of piston hole two to connect it to the drilling between 1 & 3. Then get an m10x1.25 flange head bolt with 15mm thread length & a copper banjo washer to seal the old banjo hole on piston two. Connect, bleed, (you may have to use both bleed nipples to get rid of all air), job done. I have a set of 5th gen ones on the shelf like this if anyones interested. How was the difference in braking after this? Then difference between this and your current set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 15, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 15, 2015 The braking was better with just the front brake, but nowhere near as good as I wanted, hence the upgrade to the 4pot CBR calipers which are brilliant. Personally I don't think braking got better after the Nissin 4 pots used on late CBR's/VTR-SP's etc. Monoblock, radial etc, all rowlocks & sales gimmics IMO. A set of these with carbon ceramic rotors would be better than any setup out there. I noticed the current 2014+ model has proper 4 pot brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDON Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Poor braking is the issue, feels like a deceleration but not enough to make a black strip if I have to. How late model of cbr fit? Will a set of calipers will just bolt on with 6th gen rotor and mount points on forks?. also not sure about the swept volume of the master cylinder matching the 4 pots. does this end up being a front end swap before it's done? would it just be easier to jump off the bike if hard braking is necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted April 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 16, 2015 would it just be easier to jump off the bike if hard braking is necessary? Maybe drag your feet?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lint Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Poor braking is the issue, feels like a deceleration but not enough to make a black strip if I have to. How late model of cbr fit? Will a set of calipers will just bolt on with 6th gen rotor and mount points on forks?. also not sure about the swept volume of the master cylinder matching the 4 pots. does this end up being a front end swap before it's done? would it just be easier to jump off the bike if hard braking is necessary? I don't know about that. I put EBC HH pads front and rear on my bike and I locked up the front tire at about 40mph. It seems good enough to me. I can lock up the rear wheel pretty easily too now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 16, 2015 If the LBS/CBS system is working correctly on a 5th gen, its quite efficient, so long as you stomp hard on the rear brake to bring the full power of the front brakes in to play. But I prefer the front brake doing its job on its own. Look up Mello-Dudes delinking saga if you want the details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer adeyren Posted April 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 16, 2015 Agree with mohawk on the front brake doing its own job. I was always taught years ago (35) by an uncle who was an ex club racer "leave the f****g back brake alone". Never use mine, only occasionally to make sure it works! I stand to be corrected but thats what im used to. Going to be looking into delinking for one of next winter's projects once i've built a new workshop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gig Posted April 16, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 16, 2015 The linked brake system seems to work best if you grab a handful of break initially to get the secondary master cylinder to fully engage and done doing its job from the start. If you ease into the breaking and gradually increase pressure as you would in most stops or pre corner braking etc. the braking feels very inadequate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted April 17, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 17, 2015 The linked brake system seems to work best if you grab a handful of break initially to get the secondary master cylinder to fully engage and done doing its job from the start. If you ease into the breaking and gradually increase pressure as you would in most stops or pre corner braking etc. the braking feels very inadequate. +1 works for me to . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted April 17, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 17, 2015 FYI, my updated Rear Master Cylinder/Caliper Ratios chart: (The bikes where I listed three pistons are LBS-equipped bikes, but of course, the third piston is not used unless you drill the caliper or otherwise connect all three pistons together.) Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gig Posted April 18, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2015 In layman's terms what does the braking ratio you say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 Ive never understood the reason for delinking a 6th gen (especially the ABS system bikes), its a well designed system and you'll only weaken the brakes by delinking, any competent rider should be able to adapt to the slight difference and appreciate it, which is mainly noted at sub 5mph speeds. otherwise you don't operate any differently under normal conditions, and I don't see any vfr riders having to do altitude changes mid air on the vfr. Now the 5th gen was more heavily linked, that may cause an issue, or non abs (linked) under certain icey down hill braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Question
KDON
Delinking went well but the HEL instructions were a bit vague on the step regarding drilling out caliper so fluid can flow to the 3rd piston.
Has anyone performed this that can shed some insight?
Is there a fluid tunnel that just needs to be drilled into?
How deep?
Most appropriate sized bit?
Is it easy to FUBAR?
Any insight appreciated before the non reversible modifications begin
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