GlendonFranklin Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have a bad case of arthritis with complications, in my clutch hand and it is getting to be an issue. The VFR has a pretty light clutch action but I am finding that the on off clutchwork involved in town riding is proving difficult. To be clear, a quickshifter is not the answer. I need some way of making life easier when I am in town and on and off the clutch and gears all the time. Someone has suggested a)lighter clutch springs and b) a bigger master cylinder for the clutch. Has anyone got any thoughts on these or have any other ideas? I love my VFR dearly and the thought of giving him up pains me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 A perfect excuse to swap your 800 for the VFR1200F DCT maybe?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted January 28, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 28, 2015 Longer levers or go with a different MC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted January 29, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 29, 2015 Sorry to hear about your arthritis. Getting older is a bitch isn't it? Don't get me started on my knees.... My view is that lighter clutch springs would be a bad thing and lead to a slipping clutch. You need to gain a bigger mechanical advantage over the clutch slave cylinder so you would need to use a smaller diameter MC (not bigger) or a bigger slave cylinder. The mechanical ratio depends on the area of the two cylinders; the master cylinder is 14mm, but the manual doesn't give the slave size. The trade-off here is that the lever will need to move further to disengage the clutch. You could also get the same result by changing the mechanical ratio of the lever (moving the pivot point closer to the MC piston axis); I think some aftermarket levers can do this? I spotted this article which might be of interest; Oberon are a UK based supplier so while they don't appear to have Honda parts, maybe they could rustle you up something special? http://www.visordown.com/product-features/oberon-clutch-slave-cylinder-review--how-to-fit/24942.html Without wishing to teach you to suck eggs, have you made sure that your existing set-up is at its best, i.e. the controls are rotated on the bar to best suit you, and the lever and pushrod are well-greased? Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted January 29, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 29, 2015 you can call EMF auto clutch.. you down shift into first. and stop! then go! it uses centrifugal force to engage . i have put a few on to choppers with a "suicide" shiftlever on them. and it works great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted January 29, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 29, 2015 I swapped out the master cylinder with an SP1 unit. I find it quite a bit easier. It might be the m/c, or the fact that I stripped and cleaned the slave cylinder. Not really sure which had more effect. By the way, the SP slave cylinder is the same part# as VFR, so no issues with compatibility. Also be sure to clean and grease the lever pivot. Might be some Brembo units out there on the used market that you could swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlendonFranklin Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Thanks for the advice chaps. The VRF 1200 option is not on. Too heavy - I think they are carved from unobtanium or something. I think maybe swapping the master cylinder looks like the best bet - I read somewhere that someone fitted a Tuono set up.The current set up has been checked by my expert mechanic and he reckons it is as light as they get. So, maybe I'll hunt down an SP MC or look at the Aprillia alternative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 You don't notice the extra 15 kg on the 1200 at all as it has Considerably Lower Centre of gravity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 I am running a brembo radial master off a 2009 ducati monster 1100. Much better feel and lighter pull. The radial design has more mechanical advantage and therefore less wasted effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 ^^^^^^ this Brembo also make adjustable ratio master cylinders though I have no experience with one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Thanks for the advice chaps. The VRF 1200 option is not on. Too heavy - I think they are carved from unobtanium or something. I think maybe swapping the master cylinder looks like the best bet - I read somewhere that someone fitted a Tuono set up.The current set up has been checked by my expert mechanic and he reckons it is as light as they get. So, maybe I'll hunt down an SP MC or look at the Aprillia alternative. You know, its up to you, but I think that's an expensive pain in the A$$ risk, that will more than likely not bare fruit. Don't discount the extreme rear ward sweep of stock clip-ons, having an effect . raise the clip-ons out of the detents and pivot forward alittle, see if that helps. This costs nothing to try, but changes the angles of squeeze and wrist position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfr4 Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 cable clutch conversion? I've got one left over from when I put my SP1 back to standard and I'll be offering it up to my vfr when I get time. should just be a shorter rod (or longer, I cant remember) and away I go. It's like a clutch pull through half melted butter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlendonFranklin Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Well, I have done some research and have decided on replacing the master cylinder but: I am confused by talk of bore sizes! What size bore does the Viffer have and should I get a larger or smaller bore? There is also a huge range in prices from £400 to £30! Help as always appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Look on the underside of your master cylinder. The size should be cast into the part, either in metric or standard. Same for the brake side. IE: 14 (mm) or 5/8 (inch) Just pulled those numbers fresh out of the sky, doesn't mean yours would be either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted February 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted February 23, 2015 Good guess Canuck; the service manual for the 5th gen states 14.00mm i.d. for the clutch master. To get more mechanical leverage over the slave cylinder you need to get a smaller diameter MC; that means you'll have more travel at the MC for the same travel at the slave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 ^^^^^ This. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Or a bigger slave. There's a million rc51/CBR slave cylinders on eBay with all sorts of ratios. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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