TampaDave Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 2004, stock, supposedly had wiring recall done. Connectors show no heat damage. I'm getting ready to take off on a cross country trip and want to do what I can to prevent electrical issues. Let's assume I'm going to do a full multimeter check, and am putting in a voltmeter. In terms of upgrades, I can see three pathways to follow. 1. Install a new mosfet r/r, wire directly to the battery, replace stator connector with a high quality plug, upgrading as much of the stator wire as I can get to. 2. Put in a VFRness, eliminate stator wire plug with a twist/solder connection. 3. Watch the voltmeter and don't fix until broken. I'm leaning toward #2 as the most specific thing for Gen 6. I think option 1 would work, but maybe is overkill for a Gen6. Thoughts? Comments? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted November 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2014 Get roadside assistance coverage Measure the stator and RR if good, fit a voltmeter to give you a warning that something is amiss go and ride If you are getting a warning, post up here on VFRD, tell us where you are and no doubt a member here will be in the area for tightwad to mail a replacement part... Most of all, enjoy the ride and take and post plenty pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer IntAceptor Posted November 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2014 Wire jumper the plugs associated with the RR and stator around the plugs (but keep them in place) and put a fan on the RR that comes on when the bike is running. Add a voltmeter. I did that and my original RR / stator combo is still going strong at 60K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted November 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2014 I'd go with #3. Why introduce new components into the system for you to worry about? If you have no issues with the stock set up, leave it but keep an eye on it. Unplug the connectors, tighten up the terminals, put a light amount of dialectic grease in them, and button it up. Maybe get a stock replacement to have on hand, just in case. I would go with #1 if you did find issues now. In fact I literally did after I found the plug was starting to arc and melt. I didn't use the specific "kit" as sold by Roadster Jack, but I did install the same components. If I had seen his kit before, I likely would have used it, but I didn't know about it and put it together with a used FH012 from an R1 instead of a new R/R. Working fine for several years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted November 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2014 I am a solid believer in #2, although I have a Gen 3 which introduced the RR problems. Sorry about that. The VFRness gave me an extra volt across the bored, a voltmeter is an excellent idea (although when mounting consider glare), and if your really concerned about it, but an extra RR before you go. Might be overkill for gen 6, but it's saved me before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JayWalker Posted November 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2014 I have an OEM R/R (31600-MCW-D01)in the factory sealed bag I was about to post for $75. If you are wanting to carry a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 5th gen rr's definitely had issues I believe most 6th gen rr's get replaced due to the connector getting burnt, rather than the rr itself failing. I have well over 100,000 miles all original wiring and original rr, I did replaced the stator at 56,000 miles. But go through your wiring make sure they are clean, and check resistance through the connector, hit em with some wd40 and keep on trucking till you see a problem, and more than likely that will be the stator. There's no hard rule that the oem 6th gen stator runs excessively hot, some actually run cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted November 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 3, 2014 Wire jumper the plugs associated with the RR and stator around the plugs (but keep them in place) and put a fan on the RR that comes on when the bike is running. Add a voltmeter. I did that and my original RR / stator combo is still going strong at 60K. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted November 4, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 4, 2014 Oxgard is a big help in keeping connectors (and grounds) working well. Most hardware stores or home centers have it. http://www.gardnerbender.com/en/ox-100b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowy Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I have an OEM R/R (31600-MCW-D01)in the factory sealed bag I was about to post for $75. If you are wanting to carry a spare. Hi Jaywalker, do you still have the OEM R/R for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I would add one thing... the (female) parts of a connector only get loose if you unplug the connector as this usually requires some lateral flexing to get teh connector apart... it would seem to me to be defeating the purpose unplugging a connector to tighten it's female bits... I would just spray in contact cleaner from each end, let it vaporate and then give a short squirt of WD40 from both sides... unless you know the thing has been disconnected at some stage or notice that it's loose (I once found a loose one) or arcing or has unusual resistance from one side to the other. 6th gens fry stators 5th gens fry R/Rs Probably the best indication of your stator's health, apart from taking multimeter readings for continuity and resistance at the Stator-R/R connector would be to put the bike on the centre stand and pop the alternator cover off and visually check the color and condition of the isolation varnish material. You only lose a few drops of engine oil which you should catch in a pan (to dispose of correctly) and replenish with the same amount of fresh oil through the filler cap on the other side. If you're getting unhealthy Reading on the multimeter and/or the stator is looking KFC it's probably on it's way to KO. If you eliminate the Stator-R/R connector make sure you use a guaranteed improved method of connecting... a poor direct soldering job will only worsen the situation. Somethings are better left untouched. I have seen first hand on several ocassions how the connector from Stator to R/R started arcing and melting/burning out after people had replaced the stator and the female connector parts had spread open a tad from several unpluggings during the whole diagnostic and swapping-out procedure. Just saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allyance Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Contact resistance creates heat. Use a emory board for filing nails, remove rough back side, cut to fit width of female connector and insert into connector. Turn over and do other side. This will burnish contact and totally eliminate any residue or corrosion. Check out roadstercycle.com for the best R/R and the differences between Series units and standard units that shunt unused power to ground (thus they get hot). I installed a series R/R, hard wired stator leads to custom connector for R/R, then ran 2 #10 leads back to battery from R/R DC output, with 30amp inline fuse. Did not rely on two wires Honda uses in the harness. If one connector fails, then full output of R/R is carried by other, insufficient wire/connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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