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Oil Drip At Front Wheel?


Ranger77

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Ive read about them, but I still dont fully understand how they can change the fork's function.

I wish there was some upside down forks that would just bolt on with having to have all the extra parts and changing handle bars.

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I use 35mm film to get funk out.

I have one oem set when I bought a binch of spare parts from a guy but I dont k iw how old the kit is. Its been sealed this how time. Of course we dont know how old any of rubber oem parts are.

Inside a fork seal is a very fine wiper, its about .2mm tall (hard to see) , generally they tend to spider web , then break up and all that looks like dirt , but its that fine wiper breaking up. 35mm film is less dangerous on the wiper than something metal, but Ive found when you see a heavy oil film its really too late for that fine wiper, it might in rare cases buy some time with 35mm film getting some of that debri out. But Ive not found sticking anything in there worth the time.

any thing with alcohol will spider web that wiper almost on contact , the only thing I use on seals to prevent early aging is alittle armoral. just squirt some on the leg around the dust seal and pump the fork to drive it in, my original vfr seals are 8 years old. I also use a modified seal saver that block debri build up on the legs, as that can get driven into your seals.

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Should I get those valve cartridge things?

You've already got a couple of these lurking inside your forks!!!

Picture a bicycle air pump with the big bit bolted to the bottom of the leg and the other end bolted to the fork cap, that's what the cartridges look like.

There's a couple of valve bodies in each cartridge, a compression valve which controls fork behaviour during compression and (you guessed it) a separate valve that controls how the fork behaves on rebound.

You can tinker with these to make things firmer/less wobbly, and along with firmer springs you can set up the front end of the VFR pretty much however you want. If you want to spend the money you can add external adjuster for rebound, just speak to Jamie Daugherty.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I havent popped tge dust covers yet to see what the seals look like or try cleaning them.

Would be nice if it was just some crud but I dont know how much oil Ive lost out of that fork so might as well do a rebuild. The bushings looked fine last time but I'll tally up the cost with them.

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This is just a general question is there any way of sealing a leak at the collar of the oil cooler rad on a 2006 A6 vtec . I changed the pipes recently and just noticed this hair line crack right at the collar which seeps very slowly once the engine is running .

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Popped the dust covers off. The left cover is fine because of the oil keeping it soft. The right is cracked.

Right fork is dry and seal looks fine. Left fork is the leaker and seal looks fine. Got a business card and cleaned the seals. The left shaft is smooth but has vertical lines.

I'll take a short ride and see what happens. I may just order new tubes.

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I may just order new tubes.

Check the price before you click "BUY NOW".......

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Went on a short ride and all seems good. Left fork was dry after the ride.

I've read a bunch of guys using PB blaster to bring back life to O-rings and rubber parts. I'll give the right dust cover a coat of it to see if itll keep it soft. With winter around the corner, I dont feel like pulling forks, especually without a garage.

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Went on a short ride and all seems good. Left fork was dry after the ride.

I've read a bunch of guys using PB blaster to bring back life to O-rings and rubber parts. I'll give the right dust cover a coat of it to see if itll keep it soft. With winter around the corner, I dont feel like pulling forks, especually without a garage.

And synthetic transmission fluid are known to help old seals .

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This is just a general question is there any way of sealing a leak at the collar of the oil cooler rad on a 2006 A6 vtec . I changed the pipes recently and just noticed this hair line crack right at the collar which seeps very slowly once the engine is running .

I would remove it and have a radiator shop give you an estimate. It might be more cost effective to get another one off fleabay. Before doing that it would be good to try to figure out what caused it to crack in the first place.

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