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Electrosport


ShadowJP88

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Does anyone have already heard or buy a r/r and stator from them?

http://www.electrosport.com/

Almost 150$ less than anywhere else

I think from history from the members on this board - run away.....

Stator or R/R?

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Have you put a multimeter to your R/R? "see if my r/r is fine" suggests not yet....

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I've try but that's not the kind of things I'm good at. A friend of mine who could help is at 2 hours from here. the reading didn't have any sense. I'm fine to change part but not to do that.

I've try another one this summer but I had to cut cable since the connection was not the same... reused mine, the other one was giving me more trouble.

And now, my bike is at a point that when I ride, when the bike is a bit hot (less than 15 minutes) at a red light, the rpm is at zero even if the engine run. When riding the reading is good for that but when the light turn green, it easily stop and never restart until colder.

And it do start like a new one when cold...

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Lost me there. . . Is your voltage at zero when your engine is running, or is there an indicator that shows your RPMs at 0 while running?

Also, usually the battery fails when you have R/R and/or stator problems, so if the bike stalled out, it wouldn't start back up again until you charged the batttery or jumped it.

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Lost me there. . . Is your voltage at zero when your engine is running, or is there an indicator that shows your RPMs at 0 while running?

Also, usually the battery fails when you have R/R and/or stator problems, so if the bike stalled out, it wouldn't start back up again until you charged the batttery or jumped it.

When hot with engine running at idle, my rpm needle is sometimes at 0, when I gave some gas, the rpm is back to normal.
When it's doing this, it won't start and act like an empty battery (the clock and odometer reset) and when I push the start button, the odometer flicker just like when the battery is empty. So I need to start it with compression.
After that, when engine is cold, it start like a new...
It seem's to charge fine. My battery is Ok, I don't need to boost it.
I actually use it more often to go at school, less then 10 minutes, so it may be ok to charge it while cold
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I installed an electro sport rr and stator on my 2007 vfr800. It charged at 18 volts. I'm lucky my bike did not burst into flames. RUN AWAY. ELECTROSPORT IS CHINESE GARBAGE.

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I put one on my Ducati a few months ago -- it fried within a month. Luckily, I purchased through Amazon's storefront and got a refund and sent the unit back. Will not buy from them again.

Paul

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I put one on my Ducati a few months ago -- it fried within a month. Luckily, I purchased through Amazon's storefront and got a refund and sent the unit back. Will not buy from them again.

Paul

Thanks for the info, I won't get those from them.

Get a voltmeter and find out what your real problem is. Just throwing parts at if can get expensive.

I did not understand well the voltmeter... and with all the discusion here, I'm pretty sure it's, at least, my stator is bad

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I put one on my Ducati a few months ago -- it fried within a month. Luckily, I purchased through Amazon's storefront and got a refund and sent the unit back. Will not buy from them again.

Paul

Thanks for the info, I won't get those from them.

Get a voltmeter and find out what your real problem is. Just throwing parts at if can get expensive.

I did not understand well the voltmeter... and with all the discusion here, I'm pretty sure it's, at least, my stator is bad

Ok man --- Time to check the system -- do "The Drill" in the attached post #5 its not hard. If a local buddy here who will remain nameless can do it,(marriedman) you can do it. :laugh2: -- It's a straight up step by step debug it test...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79239-5th-gen-electrical-issues/

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Electrosport has a very good troubleshooting tree, (probably on their website) I have used it on several occasions with success each time. Unfortunately, their products are junk. Believe the negative responses from the user group. I fried both an R/R and a stator. Naturally, one outlived the other and I ended up repairing the charging system twice.

Jeff J.

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A failing RR can act a lot like a bad stator. I'm not saying your stator isn't shot, but it's better to find out before you whip out your cc IMO.

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Time to check the system -- do "The Drill" in the attached post #5 its not hard. If a local buddy here who will remain nameless can do it,(marriedman) you can do it. :laugh2: -- It's a straight up step by step debug it test...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79239-5th-gen-electrical-issues/

lol... ass!

He's right though. If I can do it anyone can. Sometime it helps to have an extra pair of hands in there to either hold the probes or turn the throttle, but it is not 100% necessary. Taking your time is the most important thing to do. Take pictures if you have to ask a question on here. These guys know their shit and can identify all these things for you if need be.

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Time to check the system -- do "The Drill" in the attached post #5 its not hard. If a local buddy here who will remain nameless can do it,(marriedman) you can do it. :laugh2:

lol... ass!

Hee hee.... :biggrin:

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Ok man --- Time to check the system -- do "The Drill" in the attached post #5 its not hard. If a local buddy here who will remain nameless can do it,(marriedman) you can do it. :laugh2: -- It's a straight up step by step debug it test...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79239-5th-gen-electrical-issues/

Okay, I've try to do this this afternoon.

Directly on battery:

- at idle = it's between 13.09 and 13.20

- at 5000rpm it's between 14.50

Stator connection:

AB - BC - AC

They are all at zero

Battery to A, B, C

Still at zero

It's the AC part that I'm not quite sur to have a normal result

with the voltmeter on AC on the battery.

At Idle :

0.030

at 5000 rpm:

0.024

So, what does that mean? :unsure:

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Ok man --- Time to check the system -- do "The Drill" in the attached post #5 its not hard. If a local buddy here who will remain nameless can do it,(marriedman) you can do it. :laugh2: -- It's a straight up step by step debug it test...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79239-5th-gen-electrical-issues/

Okay, I've try to do this this afternoon.

Directly on battery:

- at idle = it's between 13.09 and 13.20

- at 5000rpm it's between 14.50

Stator connection:

AB - BC - AC

They are all at zero

Battery to A, B, C

Still at zero

It's the AC part that I'm not quite sur to have a normal result

with the voltmeter on AC on the battery.

At Idle :

0.030

at 5000 rpm:

0.024

So, what does that mean? :unsure:

Somethings amiss here - you dont have the multimeter set on the correct range before you test....

------- btw probes test on the stator connector, not R/R side for these. Clean connector good before the test, maybe with a little fine sand paper or simular.

---- there is no stator connector to battery test, dont do it.

- 1st tests --- set the meter range on 200 ohms..... or the closest your meter has.... recheck a-b, b-c, c-a... Answers is in ohms, something like 0,5

- Next tests --- keep meter on the 200 ohms -- - probe on one connector spot A to ground, (frame) then B to ground, then C to ground. Sould be no conductivity.

--- Then the AC volt tests --- set meter at 200 V ~ alternating Volts - got that one? Then probe in A-B, B-C, C-A.

Ok try that. :cool:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally been able to test that. On idle, the 3 result were almost the same (±.1) and at 4000 rpm, same things. So I supposed my stator is fine.

I've also received my Rick's r/r which is now installed. I found it in a dealer in Ontario for way less and it is still brand new! :D

Just need to do a test ride to know the result

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