Member Contributer Blesk Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Well, here's the latest victim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Holy crap the worst one yet. Must be from all those wheelie you do . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 For inquiring minds: 1st R/R and stator replacement was at about 40k miles I'm now just shy of 70k miles. The first symptom was over charging by 2v over normal per my Kuryakin meter I wired in after stator 1 went. It was only about 100 miles later that the bike died. Not much warning. R/R connectors are all mint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Never seen one like that - wow! How does it compare to the first one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 That's the first one I've ever seen fried 100% all the way around. How's the R/R? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Never seen one like that - wow! How does it compare to the first one? The first one wasn't quite this bad. You could still see some copper on the three starter sections. That's the first one I've ever seen fried 100% all the way around. How's the R/R? The connectors for the R/R are MINT! I didn't bother doing any testing for voltage, etc. The symptoms were very clear as to what was wrong. The new R/R I've got is an upgrade so I really am not concerned whether the one on the bike is fried. I assume so because the stator is fried and the R/R is what fries the stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 post once you have checked the RR if its still good or not. What are you replacing the stator with? Aftermarket? How exactly did this come to be, did you shut the bike off and it just wouldn't start anymore or did it die while running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Belfry Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 For inquiring minds: 1st R/R and stator replacement was at about 40k miles I'm now just shy of 70k miles. The first symptom was over charging by 2v over normal per my Kuryakin meter I wired in after stator 1 went. It was only about 100 miles later that the bike died. Not much warning. R/R connectors are all mint! Wow! That is the most fried (well done? overdone?) stator I've seen. Thanks for posting the mileages, they're good data points. I don't have anywhere near your mileage on my '06, but I'm going to finally stop ****ing around and install the voltmeter I purchased a year ago ... thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 I have a Datel voltmeter I bought from wiremybike.com, going to try to put that in this weekend myself. Hard to have piece of mind on these VFR's without a voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 That picture shows what you get when you order yoru steak "well done" in the UK....... That is the most fried stator I have EVER seen... Have to ask...... as you saw that the output was 2V over, why wait until the bike died? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 Make sure you change the oil ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 That picture shows what you get when you order yoru steak "well done" in the UK....... That is the most fried stator I have EVER seen... Have to ask...... as you saw that the output was 2V over, why wait until the bike died? Stupidity. I was heading to a rally. Between cam chain repair and pneumonia I hadn't had a good ride since May. :-( Make sure you change the oil ... Always! But thanks for adding that to this thread. Quick question: how can you check the r/r off the bike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 The Vtec workshop manual should have a table of the Ohm ranges over the various contact points. I know the RC36 one has this: (values most probably different, principle the same) You must have multimeter though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 I would check the stator AC output with the R\R disconnected and then reconnect the R\R and check the DC output. And of course make the measurement with the bike running. I know you know this BUT don't want to pinged by someone . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 A) The bike will not start to see what the stator puts out now. B) Both parts are removed already so no way to check the old r/r unless someone can explain how. Are y'all giving instruction how to diagnose before the bike is totally dead? I've got that down from the last time, lol, but the bike was too far gone for that. Yes, I should've run the volt checks before I hit the road. DOH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 And remember it good info for future reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 And remember it good info for future reference. Absolutely! It's also good to have here for everyone else who hasn't had this issue yet so they can watch for it and avoid blowing their stator. I finally need to quit putting off that extra lead mod. Lol The rest of the bike should be fine for more than the 30k to 40k miles I'm getting between issues. I just had the cam chains, water pump, spark plugs, and thermostat changed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 And remember it good info for future reference. Absolutely! It's also good to have here for everyone else who hasn't had this issue yet so they can watch for it and avoid blowing their stator. I finally need to quit putting off that extra lead mod. Lol The rest of the bike should be fine for more than the 30k to 40k miles I'm getting between issues. I just had the cam chains, water pump, spark plugs, and thermostat changed out. Wow . CCT's ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 And remember it good info for future reference. Absolutely! It's also good to have here for everyone else who hasn't had this issue yet so they can watch for it and avoid blowing their stator. I finally need to quit putting off that extra lead mod. Lol The rest of the bike should be fine for more than the 30k to 40k miles I'm getting between issues. I just had the cam chains, water pump, spark plugs, and thermostat changed out. Wow . CCT's ? They started clicking around 60k-65k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Hey, I think I have seen that before! You have got to win an award for most toasted stator ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted September 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 I'll take it! LMAO!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2014 And remember it good info for future reference. Absolutely! It's also good to have here for everyone else who hasn't had this issue yet so they can watch for it and avoid blowing their stator. I finally need to quit putting off that extra lead mod. Lol The rest of the bike should be fine for more than the 30k to 40k miles I'm getting between issues. I just had the cam chains, water pump, spark plugs, and thermostat changed out. Wow . CCT's ? They started clicking around 60k-65k miles. Mine did at 82,000 and I changed both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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